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<p>If you wonder <strong>how to improve drainage in your lawn</strong>, you&rsquo;ll be pleased to know there are some ways that you can help the squelchy yard under your feet!</p>

<p>If you wonder <strong>how to improve drainage in your lawn</strong>, you&rsquo;ll be pleased to know there are some ways that you can help the squelchy yard under your feet! Many gardens have a problem with drainage, especially after heavy rain. It can be frustrating to see wet, muddy soil on your lawn, which can be a telltale sign of a drainage problem. Often, the ground underneath the grass wasn&rsquo;t prepared properly, which has resulted in a soggy lawn.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Spiking your lawn</h2>

<p>Sometimes also called pricking the lawn, it involved spiking holes into the property to allow better drainage. A garden fork can do this, but there are also tools specific for the job that will make deeper holes allowing even better drainage. Do your whole lawn and if any gaps are big, put in some sand. You can also buy shoes with spikes and stomp over your yard to aerate it.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Remodelling your garden</h2>

<p>It&rsquo;s a drastic measure, but if you have a lousy drainage problem, it could be easier to switch up your garden. Areas that are particularly prone to poor drainage could be replaced with raised beds, filled with soil and planted with plants of your choice. Consider it to be an opportunity for something new in the garden! Other ways are to consider removing the lawn and replacing it with a shingle or bark chip.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Improve drainage</h2>

<p>If you are not pulling your hair out at waterlogged soil most of the year, you could make improvements by simply planting more plants in your garden and incorporating lots of well-rotted organic matter into your flower beds. This helps soil structure and drainage, which will mean some of the excess water will have somewhere to go.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Managing the issue</h2>

<p>There are ways to make sure the water runs off to a place where you want it&mdash;for example, an area where there are bog plants which will love the rainwater to grow. You would need to make a gully, so the water runs from where it usually collects to where you want it to go. This can be tricky but doable.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Keeping your garden healthy</h2>

<p>Not just keeping your lawn in good health and your whole garden will help improve drainage.&nbsp;Here are a few tips you can consider:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Apply lots of mulch,</li>
	<li>Use an organic lawn feed,</li>
	<li>Plant water-friendly garden plants.</li>
</ul>

<p>See if the lawn improves over time. If it doesn&#39;t, please ask for advice at our garden centre.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For lawn seed, tools and advice, come and visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to improve drainage in your lawn

<p>If you&rsquo;re <strong>new to vegetable growing</strong>, here are some tips to get you started.</p>

<p>Nothing beats the taste of your own <strong>home-grown vegetables</strong>, fresh-picked and still warm from the sun. You don&rsquo;t even need a garden to grow your own food &ndash; many vegetables will grow happily in a pot on a patio or balcony, and you can even grow salad and herbs on a sunny windowsill. If you&rsquo;re new to vegetable growing, here are some tips to get you started.</p>

<h2>Soil and sunlight</h2>

<p>First, think about how much sun your garden, patio or balcony gets during an average summer&rsquo;s day. Most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sun per day, but you can still grow vegetables in a shady garden if you choose the right ones.</p>

<p>Next, get to know your soil. If you&rsquo;re planting vegetables in the ground, you need to know whether your soil is light sandy, heavy clay or somewhere in between.&nbsp; Dig a hole with a trowel and take a handful of the soil you&rsquo;ve dug up. Dampen it with water and try to roll it between your palms. Sandy soils feel gritty and won&rsquo;t stick together, while clay soils are sticky when wet and can be easily moved into a thin sausage shape. You can also test your soil pH (its acidity or alkalinity) with a soil test kit &ndash; these are readily available and easy to use.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Vegetable gardening tools</h2>

<p>All jobs are more manageable when you have the right tools. Here&rsquo;s a short list of some of the most useful garden tools for vegetable growers:&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>A garden spade and fork with long, sturdy&nbsp;handles for digging over your beds to clear weeds and stones before planting and digging in organic matter such as farmyard manure to improve the soil.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>A hand fork for weeding.</li>
	<li>A hand trowel for digging small holes when planting out seedlings.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Gardening gloves to protect your hands.</li>
	<li>A watering can or a hose (depending on the size of your garden) to keep your plants watered during dry spells.</li>
	<li>Snips or secateurs for harvesting your crops.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Choosing which vegetables to grow</h2>

<p>Once you know your soil type and how much sun your garden gets, it&rsquo;s time to decide what to grow. Choose vegetables that are suited to your garden&rsquo;s conditions, so you&rsquo;re more likely to get vigorous, healthy plants and a good harvest. And remember, there&rsquo;s no point in growing many vegetables that no one likes, so focus on growing the vegetables you enjoy eating.</p>

<p><strong>Vegetables for pots:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Tomato &lsquo;Tumbling Tom&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Dwarf runner bean &lsquo;Hestia&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Dwarf French beans &lsquo;Purple Teepee&rsquo; and &lsquo;Safari&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Salad leaves</li>
	<li>Early potatoes</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Vegetables for part shade:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Chard</li>
	<li>Kale</li>
	<li>Leeks</li>
	<li>Lettuce</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Vegetables for clay soils:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>French beans</li>
	<li>Cabbage</li>
	<li>Pumpkins</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Vegetables for sandy soils:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Carrots</li>
	<li>Beetroot</li>
	<li>Radishes</li>
</ul>

<p>Visit our centre and get your vegetable garden started today! We have a fantastic range of vegetable seeds and plants, and our friendly staff are always happy to help and advise.</p>

A beginner’s guide to growing vegetables

<p>We have picked our <strong>top ten flowers to succeed in hanging baskets</strong> with a few surprises. Discover them now!&nbsp;</p>

<p>The <strong>best flowers to grow in a hanging basket</strong>&nbsp;are questions we have been asked many times. You can plant up your baskets at this time of year, make sure the new plants are hardened off and protected from any late frosts, and then hang them somewhere that you can enjoy looking at them as they grow and flower. We have picked our top ten flowers to succeed in hanging baskets with a few surprises. Discover them now!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Top 10 fantastic flowers to grow in hanging baskets</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Petunia</strong><br />
	The Petunia is the most popular flower to grow in hanging baskets, and there is no wonder why! Petunias are easy to hold, come in many colours and patterns, and bloom for months throughout summer. They will need full sun, good quality compost, water retention granules, and a weekly feed in summer. Deadhead them to prolong blooming.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Surfinia</strong><br />
	A hybrid of the Petunia and therefore requiring the same conditions, the difference is they mainly trail more than Petunias but don&rsquo;t produce seed. If you mix and match the colours of Petunias with Surfinias, you will get a mass of colour.</li>
	<li><strong>Lobelia</strong><br />
	Annual Lobelia trails effortlessly over the edges of a hanging basket and can be found in blue, pink and white for a cascade of colours. They do not like the cold or dry soil, so keep your baskets well-watered.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Lysimachia (Creeping Jenny)&nbsp;</strong><br />
	An unfussy evergreen perennial that survives winter and hangs over the edges of a basket with its gold and yellow leaves. The only thing to consider is that it will eventually take over the whole basket but can easily be divided and planted somewhere else.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Calibrachoa (Million Bells)&nbsp;</strong><br />
	Think of these as mini Petunias. They have smaller flowers with masses of colour. They are available in many different colours and can fill a hanging basket independently.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Geranium&nbsp;</strong><br />
	Another popular choice with many different colours available. They add beautiful pops of colour to baskets and can be treated the same as other bedding plants.</li>
	<li><strong>Nemesia</strong><br />
	Nemesia has some of the most incredible fragrances, is very sweet and can easily be caught in the breeze as you walk by. Pretty tiny flowers in various colours, sometimes even two-tone.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Nasturtium&nbsp;</strong><br />
	These are easy to grow from seed or plug plants, and the whole plant is edible. So if you are looking for a hanging basket with plenty of brightly coloured flowers that you can eat, Nasturtiums are the ones to grow.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Strawberry</strong><br />
	Strawberry flowers are so pretty, and the plants grow well in hanging baskets. Just pinch a strawberry as you walk by!&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Tumbling tomato</strong><br />
	Another edible for a hanging basket. Both the pretty little yellow flowers are lovely to see, but there&rsquo;s nothing more exciting than watching the red fruit grow.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>Visit us in the store to fill your hanging baskets with colourful flowers.</p>

Best flowers to grow in a hanging basket

<p>Find out <strong>everything about hydrangeas</strong> and start growing them yourself.</p>

<p>Did you know hydrangeas are perfect for a shady border with bold foliage and big flowerheads? If you&rsquo;re looking for a plant with a significant impact, you can&rsquo;t beat a hydrangea. Their rounded shape and bold foliage make an excellent backdrop for other plants, and they have their starring moment in late summer when the eye-catching flowerheads appear.&nbsp;Hydrangeas are easy to care for, and they&rsquo;re perfect for lighting up a shady corner of the garden. Find out <strong>everything about hydrangeas</strong> and start growing them yourself.</p>

<h2>How to grow hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Hydrangeas do best in moist, well-drained soil in dappled shade. Macrophylla hydrangeas (mopheads and lacecaps) have a unique party trick up their sleeves &ndash; the flowers change colour depending on soil pH (acidity or alkalinity). When grown in acidic soil, their flowers turn blue, producing pink flowers in alkaline soil. White-flowered hydrangeas are the exception, as their flowers don&rsquo;t change colour with soil pH.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Types of hydrangea</h2>

<p>Whatever your situation, there&rsquo;s sure to be a hydrangea to suit. Here&rsquo;s a quick overview of the most common hydrangea types:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea macrophylla</strong>: this includes both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas. Mophead hydrangeas have rounded flowerheads, while lacecaps have flatter flowerheads with a centre of tiny flowers surrounded by an outer ring of open florets. The flowerheads can be red, pink, blue or white.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata</strong>: These are generally large shrubs with conical flowerheads in late summer. In some varieties, the flowerheads gradually change colour over the season.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea arborescens</strong>: these have huge domed flowerheads and are spectacular in full flower. Hydrangea &lsquo;Annabelle&rsquo; is the best-known variety of this species, with enormous rounded white flowerheads.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Climbing hydrangeas</strong> (Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris and Hydrangea seemannii) are excellent for a shady wall. They can take a couple of years to get going but eventually cover a large area.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Landscaping ideas for hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Hydrangeas have a fabulous presence on the border, and they flower for a long time in mid and late summer. Here are a few ideas on where to place your hydrangeas for the best effect:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Hydrangeas add both texture and architectural interest to borders with their large round flowers, making a good contrast with more delicate perennials or ornamental grasses.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Mophead hydrangeas are compact enough to be grown in a large container. Place a couple in pots on a patio to brighten up a shady seating area.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Brightly coloured pink or blue hydrangeas make an excellent focal point in a pot on a patio. They also look good repeated through a mixed border to give a feeling of continuity to the planting.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add white-flowered hydrangeas to a shady corner of the garden to add light and interest all through summer.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Hydrangeas are perfect for filling a space in a border, growing quickly into neat, rounded shrubs. The dry flowerheads last a long time and can be left on the plants over winter to add interest. They also make excellent cut flowers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>Our centre has a fantastic selection of hydrangeas and other shade-loving plants. Come in and see our great range!</p>

Landscaping with hydrangeas

<p>There are many different <strong>Sunflowers</strong> varieties available in colours you might not be expecting. Find out more.</p>

<p>Knowing <strong>how to grow Sunflowers</strong> will mean you can have giant, beautiful sunflowers bringing so much joy to your garden every year. They are easy to grow and, therefore, great to grow with kids in the garden, but they are perfect for pollinators, and you can even harvest the seeds to sow the following year. Why not compete between your friends to see who can grow the tallest Sunflower or even the most unusual. There are many different varieties available in colours you might not be expecting.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Sow and care guide to growing Sunflowers&nbsp;</h2>

<p>As you would expect, Sunflowers need plenty of suns! As they grow, you will notice how they turn towards the sun absorbing the rays. You can sow seeds in modules or small pots during early spring protected from frosts or wait and plant them directly in the ground where they will grow when all frosts have passed. Keep the soil moist, and you should see good germination rates. The stems can get tall fast and start to curl or lay down if they aren&rsquo;t supported, so use a small cane and gently replace it with something more sturdy as they grow taller. Some will support themselves, but in strong winds, they can fall. They are very easy to grow, keep them watered, especially in dry spells and enjoy their sunny faces.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to grow different varieties of Sunflowers</h2>

<p>Many varieties aren&rsquo;t all yellow. The bright yellow is the most traditional, but you can also try orange, black and even pink! Some Sunflowers have been bred to grow in a pot and will only reach a couple of feet tall, whereas other giant varieties can easily reach 15ft. Some of our favourites and most popular are:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Titan&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;American Giant&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Little Becka&rsquo;&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Teddy Bear&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Moulin Rouge&rsquo;&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Growing Sunflowers and how to use them</h2>

<p>Sunflowers are edible from roasting the entire Sunflower head with some oil drizzled over to roasting just the seeds or sprinkling them on food. Sunflower petals are lovely in salads, and the tiny shoots can be grown as microgreens to add to soups, smoothies and stews.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Encourage wildlife by growing Sunflowers</h2>

<p>The prominent seedheads are a magnet for bees. You will often find more than one bee sharing the nectar at the same time. You&rsquo;ll see ladybirds and butterflies and many winter birds feasting on the seeds if you leave seedbeds on over the winter period for winter interest.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Choose your perfect Sunflowers to grow with our range of seeds in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow Sunflowers

<p>It is great to get creative with vertical spaces and use every part of the garden, patio or balcony to make it your very own <strong>small space</strong>, a plant-filled haven.&nbsp;</p>

<p>With so many <strong>ideas for small gardens</strong>, you can still grow an abundance of fruit, vegetables, cut flowers and have all of the accessories and fun of a more extensive garden. There is no need to feel restricted by space because many plants grow well in containers - even some fruit trees. It is great to get creative with vertical spaces and use every part of the garden, patio or balcony to make it your very own small space, a plant-filled haven.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Growing in pots, containers and hanging baskets</h2>

<p>The go-to for smaller spaces may be to grow a container garden. This is particularly good for patios and balconies or tricky spots. We recommend grouping containers with taller pots and bigger plants at the back and annual or trailing plants towards the front like in a border. The great thing about this is you can shuffle them around and replant annuals for each season, so your container garden always has some interest. Don&rsquo;t forget to use hanging baskets to grow fruit and vegetables. Strawberries and tumbling tomatoes will look great and provide you with some products.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Ideas for small gardens with vertical space&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Why not create your own green wall? There are hangers with pockets that you can line up together and plant with herbs and your favourite plants to build a green fence perfect for you and wildlife. You can also recycle guttering and layer them along walls or fences to grow salads in. There are many different types of containers or pots that will hang on fence panels and balcony railings to use every space you can. You could also try growing in a vertical growing tower filled with lots of salads and greenery.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Furniture and accessory ideas for small gardens&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Big furniture in small spaces can take up too much room, so a smaller patio or bistro set or table and chairs or a bench will fit in perfectly. Why not hang up some solar-powered lights as well to bring some evening glow to the garden and open up the space. Other furniture could include fitted benches around the edges with storage underneath or a swinging egg chair placed in a sunny corner.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Ideas for small gardens that may surprise you&nbsp;</h2>

<p>One way to make your space look bigger is to use a mirror. Not only can they look incredible, but they really open up the space. Light colours will also open up a space, so a light-coloured fence or wall paint will help. If you really want to entertain and have a BBQ but there is nowhere to store it afterwards, try a fitted BBQ or even a small pizza oven. The options are endless!&nbsp;</p>

<p>Create a thriving small space with plants, furniture and accessories when you visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

Ideas for small gardens

<p>Help your <strong>kids develop green fingers with these fun gardening activities</strong>!</p>

<p>Gardening is great for children, letting them learn about nature and their environment while developing practical skills. Help your <strong>kids develop green fingers with these fun gardening activities</strong>!</p>

<h2>Garden activities for children</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Sunflowers are spectacular and easy to grow from seed, and children will enjoy seeing whose sunflower will grow the tallest. For really tall sunflowers, sow Sunflower &lsquo;Mammoth&rsquo;, &lsquo;High Hopes&rsquo; or &lsquo;Tall Timbers&rsquo;.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant seed potatoes. This needs a bit of patience as they take at least three months before they&rsquo;re ready to harvest, but in the meantime, kids can keep watching for shoots to appear and earthing up the plants, plus there&rsquo;s all the fun of digging up the potatoes later on.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow fast-growing seeds in the shape of your child&rsquo;s initials so that they can enjoy the effect when the seedlings appear. Radishes and salad leaves are quick to germinate and can be left to grow for a tasty harvest.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Track your garden snails. Go out in the evening armed with a bucket and a bottle of correction fluid or nail polish and gather all the snails you can find. Mark the shells with correction fluid or nail polish, then dispose of the snails somewhere outside your garden. Over the next few days, watch to see whether any of your snails return.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Small children love to water plants. Please give them a small watering can or make one out of a plastic bottle with holes poked into the lid. Just keep an eye on things to make sure no plants get drowned by over-enthusiastic watering!</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Get the kids onto pest control duty, wiping aphids off plants and picking cabbage white caterpillars off brassicas. It&rsquo;s a great way to learn about bugs and the garden&#39;s ecosystem.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make a seed bomb. You&rsquo;ll need powdered clay from a craft shop, wildflower seeds, and peat-free compost. Mix 1 cup of seeds, 5 cups of compost and 2-3 cups of clay powder. Add water gradually, mixing the ingredients until they stick together. Roll the mixture into balls and leave them to dry. Once the seed bombs are dry, you can all have fun throwing them where you want your wildflowers to sprout up!</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make cress heads. Wash out empty yoghurt pots, remove the labels and paint faces onto the pots. Fill the pots with damp cotton wool, scatter cress seeds over the top of the cotton wool and gently press them down. Place the pots on a sunny windowsill. The cress &lsquo;hair&rsquo; will appear in a few days and can be snipped off to add to sandwiches or scattered over soups.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make a log pile. Gather any stray logs and twigs in your garden and pile them up in some dappled shade. Keep an eye on the pile over the year, and you should be able to spot beetles, woodlice and other wildlife making their homes there.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Visit our centre and get the whole family gardening with our fantastic range of garden tools, seeds and plants. It&rsquo;s a great day out!</p>

9 fun garden activities for kids

<p>This <strong>how-to grow herbs indoors</strong> <strong>advice</strong> will ensure you get the best from your herbs for the longest harvesting period you can and help to keep your herbs looking fresh and thriving indoors.</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to grow herbs indoors</strong> <strong>advice</strong> will ensure you get the best from your herbs for the longest harvesting period you can and help to keep your herbs looking fresh and thriving indoors. Growing herbs inside is both great if you have little or no space outside but also if you want to be able to harvest herbs as and when you are cooking without heading out into the garden every time, having some growing on the kitchen windowsill can be very convenient.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Which herbs to grow indoors</h2>

<p>We would always recommend that you choose the herbs you are most likely to use first. If you love chives on a salad start growing chives, or if you love to top your pizza with basil, start growing it so you can use it as much as you like. Then consider which will grow inside. There are very many herbs available that will grow indoors, however, there are a few that may not grow so well but it is still possible. They include sage, rosemary and thyme. Those that will grow really well inside are:</p>

<ul>
	<li>parsley,</li>
	<li>coriander,</li>
	<li>mint,</li>
	<li>oregano,</li>
	<li>chervil.</li>
</ul>

<p>Just give any herb a try and see how it grows.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Care tips for growing herbs indoors</h2>

<p>The key to growing herbs indoors is to know what each herb prefers in order to thrive. Most will do well on a sunny kitchen windowsill and some will need more water than others. Basil for example only needs to be watered when the soil is dry and the leaves have slightly started to wilt - that&#39;s the sign it&#39;s time. Others such as rosemary will need less water. All, however, will need well-drained soil and good air circulation. Don&rsquo;t forget to use the herbs. Harvesting them will help new growth and more herbs to harvest.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use your own grown herbs</h2>

<p>One of the best things about growing herbs is to benefit from all of the nutrition and flavour they give. From rosemary on a roast dinner to coriander on a curry, oregano in a bolognese and mint made into a cup of herbal tea. The options are endless and you can just snip some off each time you need to.</p>

<h2>How to&nbsp;propagate herbs</h2>

<p>Herbs are generally very easy to propagate. Rosemary can be propagated by cuttings and basil and mint can be propagated by simply snipping some stems and popping them in water. It&rsquo;s great to see the roots growing and when they are strong enough plant them up for more herb plants. Others such as coriander or even chamomile can be allowed to go to seed and you can collect the seeds to sow all over again.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a large range of herbs in store and our friendly team are happy to advise you.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow herbs indoors

<p>Fancy eating fruit picked fresh from your own balcony? Find out which fruits grow best in pots and <strong>how to make the most of your balcony garden</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Imagine picking and eating your own fresh fruit straight from your balcony garden. It&rsquo;s perfectly possible to do &ndash; many fruit trees and bushes grow well in pots and look beautiful and taste delicious. Here&rsquo;s <strong>how to grow your own fruit on your balcony</strong>.</p>

<h2>Tips for balcony gardening</h2>

<p>When gardening on a balcony, there are a few things to bear in mind:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Pots filled with wet soil can be weighty, so take care not to overload your balcony. Lightweight plastic or fibreglass pots are a better bet than heavy terracotta, provided they are securely fixed down and won&rsquo;t blow around.</li>
	<li>Most fruit needs at least 6 hours of sun per day, but there are also fruits which will do well on a shady balcony, like alpine strawberries, gooseberries and blackcurrants. Look at how much sun your balcony gets and choose the fruits that will grow best there.</li>
	<li>Balconies are often windy, so put up a windbreak to protect your plants. Bamboo cane screening fixed to the balcony railings in the direction of the prevailing wind (usually the west-facing side) is ideal.</li>
	<li>Look for clever space-saving solutions like balcony planters that hook over balcony railings.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Balcony gardens and pollination</h2>

<p>All plants need to be pollinated to produce fruit. Some fruits need to be pollinated by a different variety of that fruit, while others are self-fertile. Since space is limited on a balcony, plant self-fertile fruit varieties wherever possible, it&rsquo;s also worth having a few flowering plants to attract bees and other pollinators to your balcony garden. Coastal and Mediterranean plants such as sea thrift, lavender and thyme cope well with exposed conditions on balconies and are great for attracting pollinators.</p>

<h2>Fruit to grow on balconies</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Strawberries are easy to grow in pots and look good even when the strawberry harvest is over. Look for new varieties like the &lsquo;Summer Breeze&rsquo; range with colourful flowers and a very long harvest period.</li>
	<li>Ballerina apples are ideal for pots with their very upright shape, and fruits held on short side stems off the main trunk. However, they are not self-fertile, so you&rsquo;ll need a second apple tree or crab apple nearby to allow for pollination. Apple trees need at least 6 hours of sun a day to do well.</li>
	<li>Blueberries need acidic soil, so they&rsquo;re ideal for pots filled with ericaceous compost. Their white spring flowers and beautiful autumn foliage give them added appeal. If you only have space for one plant, choose a self-fertile variety like &lsquo;Bluecrop&rsquo; or &lsquo;Sunshine Blue&rsquo; but if possible, grow two different types for a better harvest.</li>
	<li>Gooseberries will grow well in a large pot filled with loam-based compost, and they can cope with some shade.&nbsp; They&rsquo;re self-fertile, so you only need one plant for a good harvest.</li>
</ul>

<p>With our superb range of soft fruit and fruit trees to choose from, you&rsquo;ll soon be harvesting your own delicious fresh fruit. Visit us soon to get your balcony garden started!</p>

How to grow fruit on your balcony

<p>These <strong>artificial grasses to grow</strong> can bring something extra to your home and garden.</p>

<p>These <strong>artificial grasses to grow</strong> can bring something extra to your home and garden. When it isn&rsquo;t possible to grow other plants, artificial plants can step in to green up the most difficult of places where you want there to be greenery. From dark, shady indoor corners to lawns that get ruined by pets and parties! There is always a way to add some green to your home with artificial grasses to soften the look or for practical reasons.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Artificial lawns</h2>

<p>If you cannot keep a lawn in good shape for various reasons, you have the option of an artificial lawn. There are hard-wearing, flatter type grass style lawns that can be laid directly onto concrete or lawns with artificial grass that is a little longer and more luxurious. It can be laid onto the soil, but there are some environmental impacts to consider, from wildlife living underneath being impacted to how to dispose of it when it needs replacing.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Indoor artificial plants</h2>

<p>Do you have a spot in your home where nothing will grow? Have you tried the trusted Sansevieria, and still no good? You&rsquo;ll be pleased to know many different and aesthetically pleasing plants can be grown in the home and are suitable anywhere! The range of artificial plants, including grasses, is broad, and many look so much like the real thing the neighbours would never know! Grasses that look precisely like Miscanthus Sinensis &lsquo;Zebrinus&rsquo;, Pampus, Bullrush and Carex can look great inside or outside.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Artificial grasses to grow outside&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Just like indoors, there may be areas of your garden where you can&rsquo;t see to get plans to grow. Why not have stunning artificial grass in a pot? Or perhaps you don&rsquo;t have enough time to keep pots looking perfect, and a synthetic grass container will bring something extra to your patio. Try a big, spikey Cordyline for interest in a big pot or a large Pennisetum grass for a stunning effect.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Artificial grasses need some care&nbsp;</h2>

<p>While there will be far less care than the real plant, artificial grasses will need some looking after.</p>

<ul>
	<li>For a lawn, you may need to wash it down with a hose as and when required, sweep away leaves and for smaller properties, even give it a hoover.</li>
	<li>Artificial grasses in pots, either inside or outside, will need to be cleaned once in a while to get rid of dust and debris to ensure they look their best for as many years as possible.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>Check out our options for artificial grasses to fill your tricky spot.&nbsp;</p>

Artificial grasses to grow

<p>May&rsquo;s such a beautiful month for gardening, with warm spring weather and plants bursting into bloom. Read our <strong>15 gardening tips for May</strong>.</p>

<p>May&rsquo;s a beautiful month to get out into the garden, with spring in full bloom and everything bursting back into life.&nbsp; Here are our <strong>15&nbsp;gardening tips for May</strong> to get your garden looking its best for summer.</p>

<h2>May&#39;s 15&nbsp;gardening tips</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Plant summer bedding in pots, windowboxes and hanging baskets to add instant colour to patios and front steps. In colder areas of the country, wait until the end of the month to avoid any last cold snaps.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once the leaves of spring bulbs like daffodils, bluebells and tulips have died back, cut them off at ground level. Lift and divide overgrown clumps of spring bulbs.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow annuals like sunflowers, poppies and cornflowers outdoors for a fantastic summer display.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow courgettes, runner beans and French beans in pots in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill for planting out next month.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Earth up potatoes to keep the tubers covered &ndash; if they are exposed to sunlight, they will turn green and become toxic. Plant them this month if you still have any maincrop seed potatoes.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pot your tomato seedlings into larger pots, but wait until the end of the month to plant tomatoes outdoors, and remember to harden them off first.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow basil seeds in pots on a sunny windowsill for a constant supply of tasty leaves all through summer. You can also sow coriander outdoors now.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow a new batch of salad leaves every couple of weeks for fresh salads throughout summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It&rsquo;s not too soon to start sowing your winter vegetables! Sow kale in pots in the greenhouse and parsnips and Brussels sprouts directly outdoors where they are to grow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make the best use of your water by watering plants in the early mornings or the evenings, constantly watering the earth, not the foliage. Install a waterbutt to collect rainwater and use this for watering &ndash; it&rsquo;s perfect for plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep on top of weeds, especially in the vegetable garden. Run a Dutch hoe over the ground to clear annual weeds on dry days. Perennial weeds with long taproots, like docks and dandelions, can be tackled with a hand fork or dandelion grubber.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Take care when trimming hedges &ndash; always check that there are no birds nesting in the hedge before you start cutting. Remember, it&rsquo;s illegal to disturb nesting birds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once they&#39;ve finished flowering, prune spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia, Japanese quince, flowering currants and choisya to keep them looking neat.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now that the frosts are over, it&rsquo;s time to prune Group 1 clematis like Clematis montana and Clematis armandii that flower early in the year. Cut back as needed to keep them to size.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water container plants regularly even if it rains, as their foliage often stops the rainwater from reaching the compost. Feed them fortnightly with a balanced liquid feed.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re sowing, planting or planning for great summer garden parties, visit our centre, and you&rsquo;ll find everything you need!</p>

15 gardening tips for May

<p>Houseplants are pot grown, and therefore, the compost will run out of nutrients very quickly, so adding the feed to your watering regime is needed to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need to grow.</p>

<p>Time to <strong>feed your houseplants</strong>, so get prepared with everything you need to make sure your houseplants are ready for the boost to burst into active growth throughout late spring and the summer months. Many houseplants need less water and no feeding over the colder months of the year, but as soon as the weather heats up, you&#39;ll know it&#39;s time to start watering more and feeding your plants. This will help to keep them healthy.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>When to feed your houseplants</h2>

<p>Houseplants are pot grown, and therefore, the compost will run out of nutrients very quickly, so adding the feed to your watering regime is needed to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need to grow. Average potting soil holds enough nutrients for around six weeks. After this time, you&#39;ll need to add plant food every four to six weeks in spring and summer. If you don&#39;t feed your houseplants, they tend to underachieve. Give them&nbsp;regular&nbsp;health boosts to show lush, attractive foliage. Flowering houseplants need more food than foliage plants.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Know what is in the bottle before you feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>All houseplant feed will contain:</p>

<ul>
	<li>nitrogen (N)</li>
	<li>phosphorus (P)</li>
	<li>potassium (K)</li>
</ul>

<p>The balance of these makes the feed right for your plants. Always check the label on any houseplant feed you are looking to purchase to check if these three are on the label. You will also see varying levels of other minerals such as calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and chlorine (Cl).&nbsp;</p>

<h2>What houseplant feed to use to feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Depending on what plants you feed, there are slight variations in the food you need. There are good all-round plant fertilisers that will benefit all plants but knowing a little more in-depth can help you make the right decision. If you have houseplants that are all foliage, the feed you choose could be higher in nitrogen, which will help the plant produce lush foliage. If you have an indoor plant that flowers and fruits, a tomato feed can be beneficial as it is high in potassium. &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;</p>

<h2>Feed your houseplants and know which need feeding</h2>

<p>You can feed orchids with a special Orchid feed found in the store. Always follow the instructions. Cacti won&#39;t need feed, but they might flower and will grow quicker if you do. Houseplants that prefer acidic soil, such as African Daisies, will require an ericaceous fertiliser, and carnivorous plants won&#39;t need any extra feed at all. Most other houseplants can be fed with a general houseplant feed.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many different types of feeds and a few different ways of feeding. Diluted liquid feed in water is easy and can just be added to your regular watering rota. Generally, adding plant feed into the water every two weeks will be enough but always read the instructions and recommendations. There are also pelleted feeds, and slow-release drip feeds that can be useful when away from home.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have houseplants and fertilisers in store, visit us and add to your collection.</p>

Feed your houseplants

<p>Here are our <strong>top tips for April lawn care</strong>.</p>

<p>Winter can be tough on lawns, so as the weather warms up and the days get brighter, it&rsquo;s good to pay your lawn some attention to get it back into shape for the summer. Here are our <strong>top tips for April lawn care</strong>.</p>

<h2>Lawn care tips for April</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Consider mowing less often for a more wildlife-friendly lawn, and leave your lawnmower blades on a higher setting. This allows low-growing plants like self-heal, buttercups, clover and other wildflowers to thrive, providing pollen for bees and other pollinators. If you prefer the look of a neatly mown lawn, why not leave a small area unmown as a wildlife haven?</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>For short turf, start mowing more regularly this month as the grass begins to grow again after winter. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and don&rsquo;t mow when the grass is wet. It&rsquo;s often best to mow in the afternoons to give the dew time to dry off in the mornings. Initially, trim with the lawnmower blades on a high setting, gradually moving to a lower setting as the growing season progresses.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give your lawn a boost after winter with a proprietary spring lawn feed. This will contain a balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to promote the growth of strong, healthy grass that can out-compete weeds and moss.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>As the grass starts to grow, lawn weeds like dandelions and docks will begin to appear too. Keep on top of them by digging them out by hand (there are special tools available to help tackle dandelions and other weeds with long taproots). If there are too many weeds to tackle by hand, wait until next month and treat them with a lawn weedkiller. It&rsquo;s best to wait at least two weeks after feeding the lawn to apply weedkiller.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Tackle moss in your lawn by raking it with a spring tine rake. If necessary, you can apply moss killer (always following the manufacturer&rsquo;s instructions) and rake out the dead moss once the moss killer has taken effect. Dead moss takes a long time to break down, so it&rsquo;s best not to add it to a compost heap.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If your lawn has bare patches, now&rsquo;s the time to tackle them. It&rsquo;s now also ideal to sow seed for new lawns, as the soil has started to warm up. Before sowing, prepare your soil by breaking it up with a garden fork and raking it over to produce a level surface with a fine, crumbly texture. Sow the seed and lightly rake it in. You may need to net the area after sowing to stop birds from eating all your grass seed! If there is no rain for a couple of days, water the site using a sprinkler or a watering can with a fine rose.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Our range of lawn care tools, feed and seed, will have your lawn looking lush and inviting this summer, so visit our centre soon!</p>

6 lawn care tips for April

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for April</strong>.</p>

<p>It&rsquo;s April, and all around us, the garden is bursting back into life! As spring gets underway, now&rsquo;s the perfect time to get outdoors and get your garden into shape for the coming year. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for April</strong>.</p>

<h2>15 gardening tips for April</h2>

<ol>
	<li>Get your vegetable beds ready for the year by clearing them of weeds and digging in garden compost or well-rotted farmyard manure. This will improve soil structure, retain moisture in dry summers and help soil drain better in wet years.</li>
	<li>As roses, shrubs and trees start to put on new growth, scatter a slow-release general purpose fertiliser around the base and rake in. Follow this with a layer of mulch such as well-rotted farmyard manure or garden compost.</li>
	<li>Lawns will be starting to grow now too, so give them a boost with a high-nitrogen feed, and use a garden fork or hollow-tine aerator to aerate compacted areas. April&rsquo;s also a good time to sow seed or lay turf for new lawns.</li>
	<li>Tie in any stray long shoots of climbing roses, honeysuckle and clematis. To encourage climbing roses to produce plenty of flowers, tie shoots so that they lie as close to horizontal as possible.</li>
	<li>Now&rsquo;s your chance to put in plant supports for tall perennials like asters, sanguisorba and verbena, so that plants can be trained through the supports as they grow (much easier than trying to fit them in once the plants have grown to full size and are flopping everywhere).</li>
	<li>Lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials like daylilies and hostas, and plant new perennials and shrubs to fill gaps in the border.</li>
	<li>Once the frosts have passed, prune penstemons. If there&rsquo;s new growth at the base of the plant, cut just above it, otherwise prune to just above the lowest new shoots.</li>
	<li>Prune spring-flowering plants like forsythia and Japanese quince (Chaenomeles) once they have finished flowering.</li>
	<li>Hard prune shrubby dogwoods (Cornus sibirica, C. sanguinea and C. alba) to encourage them to produce brightly coloured shoots for next winter&rsquo;s display.</li>
	<li>Trim lavender, making sure not to cut into the old wood.</li>
	<li>Pinch out the growing tips of fuchsia and sweet pea seedlings to encourage bushy plants.</li>
	<li>Deadhead spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips, leave the foliage to die back naturally.</li>
	<li>Use a hoe or hand fork to keep beds clear of weeds as they appear.</li>
	<li>Sow hardy annuals like poppies, cornflower and nigella outdoors, and sow broad beans, carrots, beetroot and parsnips in the veg garden.</li>
	<li>Indoors, sow tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, pumpkins, runner beans and French beans, as well as nasturtiums, sunflowers and dahlias.</li>
</ol>

<p>Whether it&rsquo;s seeds, plants, tools or pots, we&rsquo;ve got everything you need to get your garden looking great. Visit our centre in %locations% to see what&rsquo;s in store this spring!<br />
&nbsp;</p>

15 gardening tips for April

<p><strong>Hydrangeas are easy to grow,&nbsp;</strong>just follow our simple tips.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Hydrangeas are back in style, and there&rsquo;s a fantastic range to choose from. There&rsquo;s one to suit every garden, from the classic pink and blue mopheads to paniculate hydrangeas with huge conical flowerheads. Hydrangeas flower for ages in late summer, they grow well in the shade, and their flowerheads keep on looking good even once they&rsquo;ve dried.&nbsp;<strong>Hydrangeas are easy to grow</strong> too &ndash; just follow our simple tips.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Hydrangea types</h2>

<p>To get the best out of your hydrangea, it&rsquo;s essential to know what type of hydrangea you have. Here are the most common types:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea macrophylla</strong> &ndash; these are the traditional mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, with pink, blue or white flowers. One of the most striking features of the pink and blue hydrangeas is that the flower colour changes depending on whether they are grown in acidic or alkaline soils. (Acidic soils produce blue flowers, and alkaline soils produce pink.) Mopheads have rounded flower heads made up of large florets. Lacecaps have flatter flowerheads with an inner centre of tiny florets surrounded by a ring of larger ones.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea arborescens</strong> have huge domed flowerheads with a more delicate appearance than the traditional mopheads. Hydrangea&rsquo; Annabelle&rsquo; is one of the most popular Hydrangea arborescens cultivars with its enormous white flowerheads.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata</strong> produces large conical flower heads that often change colour as they mature.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea quercifolia</strong> (oak-leaved hydrangea) has large lobed leaves very similar in shape to oak leaves. In autumn, the leaves turn dramatic shades of orange and red before falling.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea anomala (climbing hydrangea)</strong> is a self-clinging climber with white lace-cap flowers in summer.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Where to grow hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Hydrangeas do best in moist, well-drained soil in light shade. Dig in plenty of organic matter like garden compost or well-rotted farmyard manure before planting to help your soil retain moisture and water regularly in dry periods. There&rsquo;s usually no need to feed hydrangeas, but you should mulch in spring with leaf mould, compost or manure.</p>

<h2>How to prune hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Pruning hydrangeas doesn&rsquo;t have to be complicated. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas</strong>: leave the faded flower heads on the plant over winter and prune in late spring, cutting back to a pair of solid buds below the old flower heads. Remove any dead or crossing branches. To encourage new shoots on mature plants, cut one or two old stems back to ground level.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens</strong>: Prune in early spring, removing dead wood or crossing branches. Cut the previous year&rsquo;s stems by one third, cutting above a pair of strong buds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Climbing hydrangeas</strong>: There&rsquo;s no need to prune climbing hydrangeas for the first few years while they are getting going. Prune mature plants annually after flowering to keep them to size, shortening any very long shoots to healthy buds lower down.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Our centre has a great range of hydrangeas and other shrubs, so visit us soon in %locations% to pick your favourite!</p>

How to grow hydrangeas

<p>This <strong>how-to refresh compost in pots</strong> will ensure your container plants thrive all year round.</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to refresh compost in pots</strong> will ensure your container plants thrive all year round. Most container-grown plants, trees and shrubs will need some new compost each year or two to improve the compost structure in the pot, increase much-needed nutrients and ensure your plants can grow for many years in pots. It is easily done and gives your plants an enormous health boost. Here&rsquo;s how to refresh compost in pots.</p>

<h2>Tools you will need to refresh compost in pots&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Make sure you are well prepared to start working on your pots and have everything you need by your side, so once you get to work, everything is convenient and easy to do. You&rsquo;ll need a</p>

<ul>
	<li>a hand fork,</li>
	<li>some fresh compost,</li>
	<li>gardening gloves.</li>
</ul>

<p>Don&rsquo;t forget a watering can and pebbles for the top of the pot if required.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Types of composts</h2>

<p>You can use numerous types of compost, but we recommend using good quality multi-purpose, peat-free compost after you have refreshed the pot with the new compost.</p>

<h2>How to refresh compost in pots</h2>

<p>Just begin to loosen the compost in the pot from the surface roots and the edges of the pots with your hand fork. If you can also remove compost gently from around the root ball, that&rsquo;s a good idea so much of the old compost is removed and can be replenished. Then replenish the pot with your multi-purpose compost and from down as you add it around the root ball. Please make sure there are no air pockets around the roots and water it well. If you&rsquo;d like to add pebbles or gravel, spread a layer on top. It can be helpful to stop weed growth and retain moisture.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Refresh compost in pots and keep up the care&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Mainly, container plants will need more watering than plants growing in the ground because they will dry out quicker. Always check how much moisture is under the top few centimetres of compost and ensure the container is well watered. Feed will be necessary from spring throughout summer as the container plants will soon absorb the compost nutrients. Over winter, lifting pots onto pot feet can also help with drainage.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For compost, tools, containers and plants for pots, visit us in store and get your garden thriving.&nbsp;</p>

Refresh compost in pots

<p>We&rsquo;ve put together our <strong>top tips on sowing seeds</strong> and&nbsp;suggestions on <strong>planting the best seeds&nbsp;in March</strong>.</p>

<p>Growing flowers from seed is a fantastic way to fill your garden with colour at minimal costs. Now that spring has arrived, there are plenty of flower seeds to sow both indoors and directly outside to give you beds filled with blooms this summer. We&rsquo;ve put together our <strong>top tips on sowing seeds</strong> and&nbsp;suggestions on <strong>planting the best seeds&nbsp;in March</strong>.</p>

<h2>Tips on sowing seeds</h2>

<ul>
	<li>If it&rsquo;s been a very cold, wet spring, wait until the weather improves to sow outdoors, or start your seeds off indoors. As a rule of thumb, if the weeds are starting to grow, it&rsquo;s probably warm enough to sow hardy annuals outside.</li>
	<li>Before sowing seeds outdoors, it&rsquo;s important to prepare the ground. Dig over the soil, remove weeds and stones and rake the surface to produce a fine, crumbly texture ready for sowing.</li>
	<li>Getting the watering right is one of the most important aspects of growing plants from seed. Seeds sown outdoors need regular watering in dry periods. For seeds sown indoors, keep the compost moist, but remember that seeds don&rsquo;t enjoy sitting in sodden compost.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Seeds to sow indoors in March</h2>

<p>Many half-hardy and tender plants can be sown indoors now and will give you a fantastic display of colour in summer. Here are some seeds to sow indoors in March:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Half-hardy annuals like cosmos, cleome, antirrhinum (snapdragons), French marigolds and calendula (pot marigolds).</li>
	<li>Dahlia mixes - many are available as seeds and can be sown indoors now, giving a fabulous display in summer for very little cost.</li>
	<li>Climbing annuals like Thunbergia alata (Black-eyed Susan), Ipomoea lobata (Spanish Flag) and Ipomoea purpurea (Morning Glory) &ndash; these can be planted out as soon as the frosts are over and will quickly cover an obelisk, arch or pergola with their colourful flowers.</li>
	<li>In cold areas, sow sweet peas indoors in root trainers &ndash; toilet roll inner tubes work well, giving the long roots space to develop.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Seeds to sow outdoors in March</h2>

<p>As the weather improves and the soil warms up towards the end of the month, many hardy plants can be sown directly outdoors. Here are a few to try:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Hardy annuals, including Californian poppies, cornflowers, Nigella (love-in-a-mist) and sunflowers. March is also an excellent time to sow annual wildflower mixes.</li>
	<li>You can sow sweet peas directly outdoors this month in mild areas, provided there&rsquo;s no risk of frost.</li>
	<li>Nasturtiums are a great addition to any kitchen garden and can be sown outdoors from late March.</li>
	<li>If the weather is good, try sowing some night-scented stocks (Matthiola bicornis) in a sunny spot near a seating area to enjoy the delicious fragrance on long summer evenings.</li>
</ul>

<p>We have everything you need to start sowing, including pots, seed trays, compost and a fantastic range of seeds. Visit us today and get your flower garden started!</p>

Flower seeds to sow in March

<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood. When we take down the Christmas decorations, it can seem like the room feels bare, so if you&#39;d still like the space filled with greenery, these plants will do just that for you.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Top 10 Houseplants After Christmas</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Fiddle leaf (Ficus Lyrata</strong>): a&nbsp;well known and loved plant that is easy to look after, despite its reputation, with just a few hints and tips. Smaller plants can be purchased or taller ones to fill a space, and they will need to be kept away from drafts in a room with lots of light and kept moderately moist.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Snake plant (Sansevieria)</strong>: one of the easiest houseplants to care for that will fill a Christmas tree space with ease. It&#39;s the best for easy care with minimal watering requirements and not being fussy about light conditions.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata)</strong>: needing a bright spot and moist compost, but equally, you might find lower light levels suit it well and watering as and when might work too! This one can last for many, many years, so it&#39;s worth putting in the place of your Christmas tree.n&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla)</strong>: if you would like to swap your Christmas tree for another Christmas tree that will look very similar, try the Norfolk Island Pine. High humidity and lots of light will keep this in great shape all year.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Weeping fig (Ficus benjamin)</strong>: bright, indirect light and regular watering will keep this growing fast and looking pristine. Less water during the winter months will help, and your weeping fig will thank you for it.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia)</strong>: another plant that will gracefully fill a Christmas tree spot. The Bird of Paradise doesn&#39;t need much attention if standing in bright light, without drafts and some humidity. You might have to wait a few years until it flowers, but when it does, it will be well worth the wait!&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Devils Ivy (Pothos)</strong>: instead of filling the space with a standing upright plant, why not try filling the room with a plant hanging from the ceiling instead? Devils Ivy will hang nicely and fill a corner spot without much care needed.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)</strong>: the on-trend plant of the last few years will fill your Christmas tree spot with ease. Give it plenty of bright but not direct light and water every 1 to 2 weeks. Don&#39;t forget to dust the leaves to keep them looking shiny gently.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Ravenea rivularis (Majesty palm)</strong>: a&nbsp;majestic palm with long fronds that will fill the space perfectly. All it will need is a bright corner and plenty of water. Keep your eye on it so you can remedy any changes.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>African Milk Tree (Euphorbia trigona)</strong>: minor&nbsp;water requirements and light to low light levels will see this plant well and growing for years.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Find the perfect houseplant to fill your bare space from our collection in store.</p>

Top 10 Houseplants to Replace the Christmas Tree

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>

<p>The New Year is here, and it&rsquo;s time to get back out into the garden! The weather may still be wintry, but there&rsquo;s plenty to do in your greenhouse and even outdoors to get ready for a great spring and summer season. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>

<h2>15 gardening tips for January</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Provided the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged, now&rsquo;s a good time to plant bare-root shrubs, trees, roses and fruit bushes. Bare root plants are great value for money, perfect if you&rsquo;re planning to plant a new hedge or extend a shrub border.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you didn&rsquo;t plant snowdrop bulbs last autumn, buy some that are in flower and plant them now. Snowdrops establish much more quickly when planted &lsquo;in the green&rsquo; than bulbs.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back any old perennial stems and leaves that have gone soggy in the winter rains and add them to your compost heap.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut off any old tatty hellebore foliage and dispose of it. Getting rid of these leaves helps stop the spread of hellebore black spot (a fungal disease) and makes it easier to see the flowers. Leave the fresh new foliage to grow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep deadheading winter pansies, and they&rsquo;ll reward you with a flush of flowers in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you haven&rsquo;t pruned your climbing roses, you can still do it now, and it&rsquo;s easier to see what needs cutting when the plants are dormant.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now&rsquo;s also an excellent time to prune shrub roses before they start growing, removing all weak and spindly growth and cutting back main branches by one-third above an outward-facing bud.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune apple and pear trees, removing any dead, damaged or crossing branches and reducing congestion. Aim to create a tree with an open vase shape.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give wisteria its January pruning &ndash; cut back last year&rsquo;s shoots to 2-3 buds from the main framework.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Force rhubarb plants by covering them with a bucket. This will encourage the growth of delicious tender new stems for delicious desserts.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Tidy up the greenhouse and clean out all those old flower pots so that you&rsquo;re ready to go when it&rsquo;s time to sow seeds in spring.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Recycle your Christmas tree by putting it out for your local council collection, or chop it up and shred the branches to make mulch for your shrub borders.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep bird feeders and birdbaths topped up to see your garden birds through the last cold months of winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest the last of your parsnips and leeks for satisfying winter stews</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather&rsquo;s too cold and wet to go outside, get yourself a cup of tea, plan this year&rsquo;s vegetable crops and order your seeds. And don&rsquo;t forget to order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic bulbs for spring planting.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>We have a fantastic range of plants, seeds and gardening kits in our centres, so visit us soon and get your gardening year off to a great start!</p>

15 January gardening tips

<p>Here are a few <strong>guidelines on pruning shrubs and trees in winter</strong>.</p>

<p>Winter and early spring are often a good time to do a bit of pruning. When the trees are bare, it&rsquo;s easier to see their shape and work out which branches to remove. However, it&rsquo;s not the right time for pruning all plants, so it&rsquo;s always a good idea to check the specific requirements of your plants before you start. Here are a few <strong>guidelines on pruning shrubs and trees in winter</strong>.</p>

<h2>Basic pruning tips</h2>

<p>Remembering these few basic rules will keep you safe while you work and give you better results:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Make sure your tools are sharp &ndash; a clean cut will cause less damage to branches and heal faster, so there&rsquo;s less chance of your plants becoming infected by diseases.</li>
	<li>Work slowly and stand back frequently to look at what you&rsquo;ve done and assess what still needs removing.</li>
	<li>Take care when working at height. It&rsquo;s a good idea to have someone else with you when you&rsquo;re working on a ladder. And don&rsquo;t take risks &ndash; if the job is too big, call in a professional tree surgeon.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Pruning deciduous and evergreen shrubs</h2>

<p>Deciduous shrubs drop their leaves in autumn, storing food reserves in their roots over winter, ready for spring. This means that winter pruning tends to result in vigorous spring growth. However, some deciduous shrubs flower on the previous year&rsquo;s growth, so pruning these in winter would mean no flowers in the following year. As a general rule of thumb, deciduous shrubs that flower in spring (e.g. forsythia and Japanese quince) should be pruned straight after flowering. Shrubs that flower in late summer and autumn (e.g.hydrangea, buddleja and fuchsia) can usually be pruned in late winter or early spring. There are exceptions to every rule, though, so check the specific requirements of your plants before you get out your secateurs.</p>

<p>Evergreen shrubs are best pruned soon after they have finished flowering. Hard pruning of evergreens can usually be done in late winter or early spring, but as always, look the plant up first to check on pruning requirements.</p>

<h2>Five trees and shrubs to prune in winter or early spring</h2>

<ol>
	<li>Shrub roses &ndash; remove damaged and crossing branches and cut the main branches down by a third, just above an outward-facing bud.</li>
	<li>Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) don&rsquo;t need routine pruning, but if you need to remove a branch, do it in winter to avoid excessive &lsquo;bleeding&rsquo; of sap.</li>
	<li>Buddleja &ndash; cut back in early spring to solid buds about 30cm above ground level.</li>
	<li>Dogwoods (Cornus sanguinea and sericea) &ndash; cut back in early spring to 5-7.5cm (2-3in) above ground level to encourage brightly coloured new shoots for next winter.</li>
	<li>Apple trees &ndash; prune in winter, aiming to create a wineglass-shaped framework of branches.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>We have a wide range of pruning tools and other garden equipment in our centre, so visit us soon for all your gardening needs!</p>

Pruning trees and shrubs in winter

<p><strong>Protect your plants this winter</strong> with these top tips.</p>

<p>Many of the plants in our gardens have come to us from lands with kinder climates than our own. This allows our gardens to look like a tropical paradise in summer, but it also means that many of our plants need help to cope with cold weather. <strong>Protect your plants this winter</strong> with these top tips.</p>

<h2>How to protect your plants this winter</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>If you&rsquo;re not sure whether a plant needs winter protection, look it up. The Royal Horticultural Society has drawn up a hardiness rating system, classifying plants by the minimum temperature they can cope with. Fully hardy plants (classified as H5) are hardy down to -15&deg;C (5&deg;F). Frost-hardy plants (H3) are typically hardy down to -5C (23&deg;F) and will probably survive a light frost but are likely to need winter protection in all but mild areas. Tender plants (H2 and H1) will not survive temperatures below 0&deg;C (32&deg;F) and must be kept frost-free in winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>One of the biggest dangers for container plants in winter is the compost in the pots becoming waterlogged and possibly frozen. This will kill off even the hardiest plants, so any banks left outdoors over winter should be raised on pot feet to ensure they drain well. In very cold areas, it&rsquo;s also worth wrapping pots in bubble wrap or fleece for extra insulation.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Move tender plants indoors in winter. If they have lost their leaves and are entirely dormant, they can be stored in a frost-free shed, but evergreen plants will still need light and should be kept in a greenhouse or conservatory or on a sunny windowsill. Line your greenhouse windows with bubble wrap to insulate them and reduce the amount of electricity needed to heat the space.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cover winter crops like salad leaves, spinach and chard with cloches or horticultural fleece to allow you to keep harvesting.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>In mild areas of the country, apply a thick layer of mulch such as compost or leaf mould to protect tender bulbs like dahlias and gladioli through winter. In icy areas, it&rsquo;s best to dig them up once the first frost has killed the foliage and store them in a cool, dry, frost-free place over winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strong winter winds can damage plants, so tie in climbing plants and check stakes and tree ties are secure. Cut tall shrub roses down by a third to protect their roots against damage from wind rock.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Think long-term when choosing plants for your garden. Plants such as salvias, lavender, and rosemary from Mediterranean climates will struggle to survive winters in heavy clay soils. Improve drainage by digging in compost or other organic material before planting, or plant them in pots instead.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Let us help you get your garden ready for winter. Whether it&rsquo;s mulch, pot feet or winter plants you&rsquo;re after, you&rsquo;ll find all you need in our centre!</p>

7 ways to protect your plants in winter

<p>Follow our top <strong>15 gardening tips for December</strong> and get your garden ready for a great spring.</p>

<p>The garden might look a bit bare this month, but there are still crops to harvest, shrubs and bulbs to plant, and plans to make for next year when the weather permits. Follow our top <strong>15 gardening tips for December</strong> and get your garden ready for a great spring.</p>

<h2>Top gardening tips for December</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>As long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged, you can still plant in December, and it&rsquo;s an excellent time to plant deciduous hedging shrubs and bare-root roses.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>While you&rsquo;re planting shrubs, why not choose some for winter colour and scent? Christmas box (Sarcococca confusa), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and witch hazel (Hamamelis) all look and smell gorgeous at this time of year.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>There&rsquo;s still time to plant spring bulbs like crocuses, daffodils and tulips for masses of colourful flowers in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Wait until after the first frosts to harvest your parsnips, and they&rsquo;ll taste sweeter. Sprouts and winter cabbage should also be ready to harvest this month, just in time for the festive season.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Lift and divide large clumps of rhubarb to rejuvenate the plants and give you delicious desserts for years to come. Make sure each new section has an &lsquo;eye&rsquo; or large bud to provide next year&rsquo;s shoots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you need to prune Japanese maples, now&rsquo;s the time while they are dormant.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune climbing roses, removing any dead wood, tying in new shoots and cutting back flowered side shoots by two-thirds of their length.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once dahlia foliage has been blackened by frost, dig up the tubers. Cut off the stems, rinse off the soil, leave them to dry, then place them in trays filled with compost and store them in a cool, dry place over winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Rake fallen leaves off your lawn so that sunlight can reach the grass. Clear fallen leaves from beds, too, as they can shelter slugs and snails.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Raise your patio pots on pot feet to improve drainage and prevent waterlogging, which could kill plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Check that tree ties and stakes are secure and stand up to high winter winds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Top up bird feeders regularly with high-energy seeds and defrost frozen birdbaths so birds can drink and keep their feathers in good shape.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Don&rsquo;t make your garden too tidy this winter. Leave some dried flower stems standing to provide shelter for overwintering insects, and make a log pile in a hidden corner to give frogs, toads and beetles a home.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Get ready for next year&rsquo;s gardening. Clean your tools and get shears, secateurs and lawnmowers sharpened now while you have the time.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather&rsquo;s too cold for gardening, start planning next year&rsquo;s gardening. Settle down in an armchair with a cup of tea and your notebook, and let your imagination run wild!</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need for your garden (or just for the gardener in your life), you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre. Visit us soon to see what&rsquo;s in store now!</p>

15 garden tips for December

<p>One important gardening activity for the winter is to <strong>get your trees and shrubs planted</strong>. Here&rsquo;s why:</p>

<p>There are many reasons&nbsp;<strong>why winter is a great time to plant trees</strong>. It can seem like there isn&rsquo;t much to do in the garden during the colder winter months, but there is always a reason to get outside no matter what the weather is like when you have a garden. You might need to top up your bird feeders, break the ice on your pond for wildlife to get in and out or brush heavy snow off tree branches. One important gardening activity for the winter is to get your trees and shrubs planted. Here&rsquo;s why:</p>

<ol>
	<li>Bare root trees</li>
	<li>Heeling in</li>
	<li>Time to establish</li>
</ol>

<h2>Bare root availability is why winter is a great time to plant trees</h2>

<p>During the winter months, you will find not only many container-grown trees available, often at a sale price, but also bare root trees become available to purchase. Often these cost less because they don&rsquo;t have any soil around the roots and are therefore easy to transport and come without a pot. Bare root trees are planted when they are dormant, usually from November to March, and the roots may be denser as well plus, they are much easier to plant without the bigger rootball and pot.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why winter is a great time to plant trees is because you don&rsquo;t have to rush</h2>

<p>November to March is a long period, and as long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or overly wet, you have plenty of time to plant trees outside. While bare-root trees and shrubs need to be planted ideally within a week of purchase, they can be &lsquo;heeled&rsquo; in. So if you aren&rsquo;t quite ready to get planting where they will eventually grow, dig a trench and lay the roots into the trench with the stems up against the side, then backfill to cover the bases and water well. This means the tree will be protected and absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil instead of drying out. If you have container grown plants, they can stay in the container until ready, but don&rsquo;t let them dry out.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Providing time to establish is why winter is a great time to plant trees</h2>

<p>The soil is moist during the winter months, giving the roots just what they need to establish before the weather heats up. It is stressful for a tree to be freshly planted outside in the heat in the summer months, and it will need constant watering. So allowing it time to settle over winter is perfect. Energy will be directed towards the roots instead of leaf and bud formation and will grow substantially enough before spring and summer.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Shop our range of trees for winter planting in store.&nbsp;</p>

Why winter is a great time to plant trees

<p>We&rsquo;ve gathered together the latest research on <strong>growing plants in peat-free compost</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Peat-free composts</strong> are big news these days, as gardeners become increasingly aware of the importance of preserving our peat bogs. Fortunately, plenty of alternative composts work just as well and are far more sustainable than peat-based compost. We&rsquo;ve gathered together the latest research on growing plants in peat-free compost.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why use peat-free compost?</h2>

<p>Peat bogs are a very specialised ecosystem supporting a unique range of plants and wildlife. Peat &ndash; partially decayed vegetation from these peat bogs &ndash; is a vast carbon store and takes thousands of years to develop. Currently, gardeners use the equivalent of 24 million wheelbarrows of peat annually, so it is being used up far faster than it can possibly be replaced, destroying a precious resource as well as contributing to climate change. Because of this, research into alternative growing media has been going on for many years, and there are now plenty of good peat-free options available. Growing plants in these composts sometimes require changes to how we sow, water and feed plants, but the results can be just as good as increasing peat-based composts.</p>

<h2>Alternatives to peat-based composts</h2>

<p>Peat-free composts are usually a blend of different raw materials to achieve good drainage, nutrient retentiveness and water holding capacity. Here are some of the most common materials used:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Coir &ndash; a waste product from the coconut processing industry with good water-retaining ability. It is low in nutrients but makes a good seed compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Wool &ndash; wool-based composts drain well but need added nutrients from other sources. They are an excellent slow-release source of nitrogen.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted green waste &ndash; this is produced from green garden waste. Too rich to use on its own, it can be added to soil or other compost mixes to create potting compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted bracken &ndash; bracken compost is an effective use of this invasive plant which can be a problem to farmers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted bark &ndash; a by-product of the timber industry, with good drainage qualities.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Inorganic materials like grit, sharp sand and perlite are mixed with peat-free composts to improve the structure and allow good drainage.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Tips for growing plants in peat-free compost</h2>

<p>Peat-free composts often behave differently from traditional peat-based versions, so follow these tips to get the best from them.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Check the moisture levels in the compost with a fingertip to assess whether you need to change your watering regime. Coir-based composts can look dry on the surface even though they are still wet, so check before watering.</li>
	<li>Check the compost packaging information for details of any fertilisers required. Different composts have different nutrient levels, depending on what they are made from.</li>
	<li>Cheaper peat-free composts are likely to contain high levels of composted green waste, so they are best mixed with soil rather than used on their own.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to know more about composts, come in and talk to us. We have a great range of compost and soil improvers in the centre, and our staff are always happy to advise.</p>

Growing plants in peat-free compost

<p>This <strong>how-to grow Hellebores guide</strong> will help you to produce the best Helleborus in the neighbourhood!</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to grow Hellebores guide</strong> will help you to produce the best Helleborus in the neighbourhood! Evergreen Hellebores are great plants for a shady garden, and because they flower during the colder winter months, they are lovely to see when there isn&rsquo;t much else blooming. The other benefit to growing Hellebores is they aren&rsquo;t enjoyed much by pests such as deer and rabbits. They are a treat for any garden are exceptionally easy to maintain.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>soil&nbsp;</li>
	<li>pruning</li>
	<li>companions</li>
	<li>other care</li>
</ol>

<h2>How to grow Hellebores in the right soil&nbsp;</h2>

<p>They will grow well in well-drained soil, which is primarily moist and in part shade. During prolonged dry spells, give them some water, but Hellebores are more drought tolerant once they are established. Ideally, ensure the soil has been given an application of well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser during early spring to help them along.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Pruning methods to learn how to grow Hellebores&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The plants are evergreen, but the foliage can look messy sometimes, so you can prune back before new growth appears. Also, you can remove a few of the leaves to allow the flowers to be seen better. Prune the old flowers stems after they have flowered, although if you leave them to set seed, they will spread, and you will have more Hellebores! Remove all dead or diseased foliage during autumn or before if they look particularly messy.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to grow Hellebores with companion plants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Hellebores can look pretty all on their own, but for a shady garden or area, they are excellent companion plants for many other shade-tolerant plants. Create a woodland vibe with Ferns, Pulmonaria and Hostas. For a blast of colour, add in Campanula, hardy Geraniums and Epimedium.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Other care for your Hellebores&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Hellebore plants don&rsquo;t tend to grow so well in containers, but for a seasonal display, you could grow them in a container and then move them into a garden border afterwards. They aren&rsquo;t keen on being divided, and allowing them to naturalise is a great way to fill a space anyway. There are many different colours from white to pink and dark purple so you can enjoy them no matter what style you are going for in your garden. They also suit contemporary and cottage gardens, attracting early pollinating insects.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Growing Hellebores is very easy. Try some of these varieties:&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Helleborus Niger - the Christmas Rose (white)</li>
	<li>Helleborus x hybridus Golden Lotus (yellow petals with pink edges)</li>
	<li>Helleborus Double Ellen Picotee (frilly petals with purple trim)</li>
</ul>

<p>We have a selection of Hellebores for you to choose from in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow Hellebores

<p>We often think of spring as the primary gardening season, but <strong>autumn is really the time to get outside</strong>. Here&#39;s everything you need to know about gardening in autumn.</p>

<p>We often think of spring as the primary gardening season, but <strong>autumn is really the time to get outside</strong>. Here&#39;s everything you need to know about gardening in autumn.</p>

<h2>Six reasons why autumn&#39;s the best time for gardening</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn&#39;s the best time to plant shrubs and trees, as the soil is warm from the summer, and there&#39;s usually plenty of rain. Although growth slows down, the roots of newly planted trees will still grow (at a slower pace) through winter, and they&#39;ll be ready when the new growth starts in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn rain and cooler temperatures mean new plants need less additional watering. As well as making life easier for gardeners, this is also the most waterwise way to plant. Rather than spending time and lots of water on watering new plants in spring, plant them in autumn and let the weather do it for you.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When you&#39;re gardening in autumn, you can still remember all those jobs you noticed in summer and planned to get done when you had a minute. By next spring, unless you&#39;re organised enough to have written them down, you might not remember how you wanted to add more colour to a border or move a plant that got too big, and by the time it becomes obvious again, you&#39;re too busy! So get onto those jobs in autumn, and when spring comes, you&#39;ll be all set.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn brings the chance to turn all those fallen leaves into leaf mould, which is a fantastic soil improver. Rake the leaves into a pile or bin bags and leave them somewhere out of sight for a year or so to rot down. As well as making a fantastic soil improver, this also reduces the amount of green waste in your council bin, helping to reduce carbon emissions associated with waste collection.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn&#39;s the best time to plant spring bulbs. You can about get away with it in early winter too, but autumn&#39;s ideal, and it&#39;s the perfect antidote to the end-of-summer blues. Rather than getting gloomy as the days grow short and the clocks go back, you can start looking forward to the first signs of your new bulbs appearing in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give your lawn a bit of care and attention in autumn, and you&#39;ll reap the rewards next year. An autumn feed revitalises your grass after summer and prepares it for the cold winter weather. Scarify to get rid of moss and thatch, allowing water to percolate better into the soil and aerate to improve drainage. Early autumn&#39;s also an excellent time to sow seed, while the temperatures are still warm enough for it to germinate and there&#39;s less foot traffic, giving the grass all winter to get going.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>There&#39;s plenty to do in your garden this autumn, and we&#39;ve got everything you need in our centres. Visit us to stock up on all your essential autumn garden supplies!</p>

Why autumn's the best time to garden

<p>Choosing suitable shrubs for borders and hedging is an effective way to give your garden a whole new look.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Shrubs and hedging are core components in any garden. Used to add structure, they can define boundaries and create a framework for your outdoor design. What&rsquo;s more &ndash; they&rsquo;re typically low-maintenance and robust, which makes them a great option for enthusiastic and reluctant gardeners alike!</p>

<p>With so many varieties to choose from, finding the right hedging plants and shrubs can be tricky. You&rsquo;ll want to ensure that the species you plant are well-suited to the environment and provide the visual impact you&rsquo;re looking for. For inspiration, take a look at these six top hedging plants and shrubs now:</p>

<h2>1. Laurel</h2>

<p>Laurel &ndash; or <em>prunus laurocerasus</em> &ndash; is an excellent choice of hedging shrub. As an evergreen plant, it provides good coverage all year round and will continue to provide clean lines even during autumn and winter. In addition to this, laurel can thrive in both sunshine and shade, which makes it a versatile option that can be used virtually anywhere in your garden.</p>

<p>While laurel typically grows well in any type of soil, you can add a layer of compost to sandy or heavy soil when planting to make it easier for laurel to become established. As laurel can grow 15-60cms each year, regular pruning will help ensure the hedge keeps its shape and grows back thicker. They can be cut back quite severely without causing damage to the plant.</p>

<h2>2. Box</h2>

<p>Also known as <em>buxus sempervirens,</em> box is one of the most popular hedging plants in the UK. Characterised by its small, dense, evergreen leaves, box hedging is an easy way to incorporate shrubs into your garden. Generally, box plants only grow around 10-15cm each year, so you may want to plant mature shrubs if you&rsquo;re looking for instant boundary lines. In recent years Buxus has become badly effected by Box caterpillar moth which can devour a plant in a couple of days.&nbsp; You can install moth traps and treatments but these have to be replaced regularly to keep the pests away.&nbsp; We no longer recommend Buxus due to these issues.&nbsp; Instead we recommend planting Ilex which is similar to Buxus (the leaves are a little bit bigger) but they are not effected by the moth and have better resistance to blight.&nbsp; If you only want your hedge to be 2-3ft tall you can also consider Euonymus which looks similar and has a lush green evergreen leaf.</p>

<p>Box hedging can be planted in almost any soil, although it doesn&rsquo;t tolerate very wet or windy conditions brilliantly. Despite this, it&rsquo;s super easy to maintain and shade tolerant, so you won&rsquo;t need to do much to keep it healthy. Simply prune box hedging back to keep the desired shape and height and you&rsquo;ll have the perfect addition to your garden!</p>

<h2>3. Rockrose</h2>

<p>If you want to add a pop of summer colour to your hedging, rockrose is a great alternative to classic shrubbery. Throughout late spring and summer, it will be filled with bowl-shaped blooms in purple, red, yellow, pink, or white but their dense foliage and narrow leaves will last all year round.</p>

<p>Native to the Mediterranean, Rockrose does need a decent amount of sunshine to thrive, so avoid planting it in shady locations. As it is very drought-tolerant, it won&rsquo;t need frequent watering and will do well in sandy, chalky, or even clay soil.</p>

<p>During early spring, prune rockrose to facilitate optimal growth but, apart from this, it shouldn&rsquo;t require much maintenance at all.&nbsp; Rockrose can reach 1m-1.5m in height and will spread horizontally, as well as growing vertically. This makes it an ideal option for borders, rockeries, courtyards, and suntraps.</p>

<h2>4. Beech</h2>

<p>If you&rsquo;re looking for a fast-growing hedging shrub that will provide privacy, create boundaries, and look sensational, <em>fagus sylvaticus</em> is the answer! Although beech hedges are deciduous, their winter leaves tend to stick around until new growth arrives in spring, which makes them a great option as a hedging shrub.</p>

<p>Ideal for formal hedges or well-manicured gardens, you may want to opt for a purple beech hedge if you want to add a little more colour to your outdoor space.</p>

<p>Beech hedges grow well in either full sun or partial shade, but it does require well-drained soil, so avoid planting it in clay or wet soil where possible. Beech hedges can reach 1m-5m in height and grow at a rate of around 30-60cm per year. Due to this, you will need to keep hedges maintained to prevent excess growth. Trim in late summer or early autumn to ensure maximum winter coverage.</p>

<h2>5. Lavender</h2>

<p>Instantly recognisable, <em>lavandula angustifolia</em>, is known for its dazzling purple flowers and rich scent. Lavender shrubs can grow to around 1m in height and flower in the summer, although they retain their foliage through every season.</p>

<p>Although lavender shrubs are relatively hardy, they do prefer full sun, so try to avoid planting them in shady conditions. Similarly, lavender plants won&rsquo;t tolerate wet or waterlogged soil, so choose a spot with sandy or well-drained soil. Prune immediately after the shrub has flowered or in early to mid-spring if you want shrubs to flower in the summertime.</p>

<h2>6. Privet</h2>

<p>An old favourite and has fallen out of fashion in the last 20yrs.&nbsp; It is a great hedging plant though and should be considered for long runs of hedge to keep costs low.&nbsp; It is good value for money and grow quite quickly, growing over a foot a year once established. It is very resilient and can be cut back severely if needed.&nbsp; You can also make shapes and arches with it!</p>

<h2>Planting Shrubs and Hedging</h2>

<p>Before planting, soak bare-root plants in water for at least an hour or water container-grown shrubs. You&rsquo;ll need to dig a hole that&rsquo;s big enough to contain the rootball but, if you&rsquo;re planting a hedge, it&rsquo;s generally easier to dig a trench and then position each rootball evenly.</p>

<p>Surround the rootball with soil and firm the soil around the trunk of the shrub and water them generously. Throughout the first year, new shrubs and hedging should be watered regularly. To optimise growth, add compost or manure once per year, either in spring or autumn.</p>

<p>No matter what type of garden you&rsquo;re cultivating, shrubs and hedging can create a stunning visual impact and increase the functionality of the space. If you&rsquo;d like advice or assistance with hedging or shrubs, simply get in touch with our team today.</p>

6 great shrubs and hedging plants

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Now it&rsquo;s time to <strong>start planting spring-flowering bulbs</strong> to make sure you get that splash of colour in spring next year.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Now it&rsquo;s time to <strong>start planting spring-flowering bulbs</strong> to make sure you get that splash of colour in spring next year. Gardeners always have to look toward the seasons ahead, and this time of year can be a busy one for gardeners everywhere. As summer comes to an end and we head into autumn, look ahead to the time of year where nature seems to wake up after a cold winter. There&rsquo;s nothing more wonderful than seeing Daffodils, Tulips, Alliums, Hyacinths and many more spring bulbs blooming as the garden springs into life again.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Plan what you will grow before you start planting spring-flowering bulbs&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Think about what you would like to grow next year. Will you have a bed full of spring bulbs and then plant with annuals, or will you plant your bulbs around shrubs and perennials? Consider your space, and then think about the colours you would like to grow. Would you like all pink or all calming whites? Perhaps you&rsquo;d like a mixture of all kinds of colours. Have a plan in mind, and that will make your bulb choices much easier.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Start planting spring-flowering bulbs anytime from now</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Autumn is a hectic time in the garden, clearing away plants, finishing the summer harvests, mulching the soil and composting. One of the most lovely jobs is planting bulbs, and most can be planted anytime from September to November as long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged. Tulips can be planted until Christmas, so there is plenty of time, but if you want to get ahead, why not start now.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">How to start planting spring-flowering bulbs&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Bulbs need to be hidden under the soil, where they store energy through the winter until they pop up through the ground and give us so much spring joy when they bloom.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span>Planting depths are usually about three times the size of the bulb, but you can also use this guide to know how deep you should plant the bulbs:</span></p>

<ul dir="ltr">
	<li><span>Tulips 20cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Iris 10cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Daffodils 15cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>large Alliums 30cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>smaller Alliums 15cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Crocus, Snowdrops and Hyacinths 10cm.</span></li>
</ul>

<p dir="ltr"><span>Too deep may mean they won&rsquo;t flower but too shallow, you may find them eaten by squirrels!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Start planting spring-flowering bulbs in containers&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">It doesn&rsquo;t matter if you have a small space. Bulbs grow really well in pots and containers as well. You can plant lots into one pot for a bustling display and even create a &lsquo;bulb lasagne&rsquo; where you plant a few of each bulb at the correct depths in the same container. So, for example, Tulips at the bottom on a layer of compost, then cover with compost and plant Daffodil bulbs and so on.&nbsp;</span>Always plant late-blooming bulbs first and early-blooming flower bulbs on top of the container.</p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">There are so many varieties to choose from. The options are endless, and you can create a gorgeous spring display.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Pick from our selection of spring bulbs in store to glam up your garden.</span></p>

Start planting spring flowering bulbs

<p>If you&rsquo;re planning on <strong>planting a lot of shrubs or trees, bare-root</strong> plants are ideal. Here&#39;s how to plant bare-root shrubs and trees.</p>

<p>If you&rsquo;re planning on planting a lot of shrubs or trees, bare-root plants are ideal. Grown in the ground rather than in containers, bare-root plants are dug up and sold between November to March while they are dormant. They&rsquo;re cheaper than container-grown plants and don&rsquo;t use plastic pots, so they&rsquo;re better for the environment too. Provided they&rsquo;re planted correctly, bare-root plants will grow into strong, healthy plants. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done:</p>

<h2>How to plant bare-root shrubs and trees</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Plan ahead. Bare root plants need to be planted as soon as possible to stop the roots from drying out, so prepare the planting area beforehand by clearing weeds and stones and add compost or well-rotted farmyard manure to improve the soil structure.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you can&rsquo;t plant your bare root shrub or tree straight away, store it carefully so that the roots don&rsquo;t dry out. If it&rsquo;s only going to be stored for a few days, wrap the roots in damp sacking or newspaper and place the plant somewhere cool and dark. Keep the sacking or paper damp.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It is best to plant as soon as possible so the root ball doesn&#39;t dry out. If it&rsquo;s going to be several weeks before you can plant, heel your plants in by digging a trench, placing the plants with their roots in the trench and backfilling with soil. If the ground is frozen or waterlogged, pot the plants up in large pots filled with compost, taking care not to bend the roots. If this isn&#39;t possible, water the root balls with a hose and keep them damp.&nbsp; Don not water though if the weather is frosty as this could damage the roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Before you plant a bare root plant, soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or soak with a hose pipe.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>To plant your bare root shrub or tree, dig a square hole the depth of the rootball and 2-3 times its width. Digging a square hole encourages the roots to spread out into the surrounding soil, rather than simply to circle round as they might do in a round hole. It is also a good idea to add some organic matter to the hole or a good quality compost to provide nutrients. Adding bonemeal to the soil/ compost in the hole will also encourage root growth.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Leave a mound of soil at the centre of the hole and place the base of the plant on this, allowing the roots to drape over the mound.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>You should be able to see a &lsquo;tidemark&rsquo; on the plant&#39;s trunk that will show the previous soil level. When planting, ensure that the plant is at the same level in the soil as previously. Planting too deep can cause the trunk to rot, killing the plant. (The exception to this rule is bare-root roses, which are best planted deep.)&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>There&rsquo;s no need to add fertiliser when planting, but a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi over the roots can help the plant establish a good root system.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Backfill with soil and firm down gently with the heel of your boot.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add a stake if necessary to support tall trees. Trees less than 1m tall don&rsquo;t usually need staking.&nbsp; For larger trees (over 3m) you might want to consider using a ground anchor and strap system to prevent the tree from being blown over which&nbsp;could damage the roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water well after planting to settle the soil, and water regularly during the first year after planting.&nbsp; We recommend installing an automatic drip irrigation system.&nbsp; Program this to come on for 30mins a day either at night or early hours in the morning.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Now&rsquo;s a great time to plant shrubs and trees, and you&rsquo;ll find everything you need at&nbsp;our garden centre, so why not visit us?&nbsp; We can also source and deliver large orders of hedging plants.&nbsp;</p>

Planting bare root shrubs and trees

<p>As the seasons change and colder weather arrives, it&rsquo;s time to prep your garden for what&rsquo;s to come. By getting your garden ready for autumn, you&rsquo;re also being proactive about protecting plants, shrubs, and lawns from succumbing to damage in the winter. With this in mind, take a look at these eight top tips for preparing your garden for autumn:</p>

<h2>1. Remove Overhanging Tree Branches</h2>

<p>If you have trees on your property, be sure to assess them carefully throughout autumn. If any branches are overhanging or look unstable, it&rsquo;s a good idea to remove them now. As the weather gets windier, additional damage could occur, which may result in branches falling. By removing them now and ensuring trees are stable, you can avoid any accidents or property damage, as well as making sure that trees grow healthily.</p>

<h2>2. Trim Hedges</h2>

<p>Knowing when to trim hedges is important if you want them to look their best and last for as long as possible. For the first two years, new hedges require &lsquo;formative pruning&rsquo;, which helps to shape them. Following this, maintenance trimming is all that&rsquo;s required to keep hedges in great condition.</p>

<p>Formal hedges typically need to be trimmed twice or three times per year and spring and autumn are the ideal times to do this. Informal hedges may only need to be pruned once or twice per year, so add this to your autumn garden checklist.</p>

<h2>3. Clear Out Greenhouses and Growing Frames</h2>

<p>Greenhouses and garden growing frames are excellent ways of nurturing young plants and achieving optimal growth. As the temperatures drop, you may rely more heavily on greenhouses and covered garden growing frames, so make sure they&rsquo;re ready for use.</p>

<p>By clearing out the items you no longer need or use and relocating plants that no longer need extra protection, you can make space for new plants to be added over autumn. Leaving fragile plants outside could mean that they won&rsquo;t survive the winter, so clearing out greenhouses and growing frames now will ensure you have the resources and space you need to protect these plants until spring arrives.</p>

<h2>4. Aerate and Treat Lawns</h2>

<p>Optimal lawn care varies depending on the time of year, so you&rsquo;ll want to know how to treat your lawn in autumn to keep it in great condition. You can begin by &lsquo;scarifying&rsquo; or raking the lawn to remove debris and dead grass. This ensures that water and nutrients can be absorbed into the soil more easily and also enhances the appearance of the lawn.</p>

<p>The next step is to aerate the lawn, so that air, water, and nutrients can travel through the roots of the grass. In addition to this, aeration enables the lawn to deal with more extreme weather conditions. If heavy rain causes the grass to get waterlogged, for example, a well-aerated lawn will be able to cope with the additional water more effectively.</p>

<p>Following this, you can apply top dressing, weedkillers, and/or lawn feed to the grass to support it throughout autumn. Choose products that are designed for use at this time of year, so that the lawn benefits from optimal nutrition.</p>

<h2>5. Put Up Stakes and Supports</h2>

<p>As it gets windier and rainier, plants will take more of a battering. For young or fragile plants, it&rsquo;s important to provide them with a little extra support. You can use stakes, trellises, canes, mesh, or covered garden growing frames to ensure that plants remain standing throughout autumn.</p>

<p>If you already have stakes and supports installed in your garden, examine them carefully to ensure they&rsquo;re in good condition. Debris should be removed and supports washed to get rid of excess soil. If necessary, wooden stakes and supports can be treated to preserve them and protect them from unnecessary damage.</p>

<h2>6. Tidy Up Borders</h2>

<p>The borders of your lawn can quickly spread if you don&rsquo;t trim them regularly. When you aren&rsquo;t cutting the grass as often, it&rsquo;s easy to overlook the importance of trimming borders. By making this part of your autumn garden maintenance, you can ensure that they&rsquo;re kept neat and tidy throughout the season. An edging tool or knife makes it easy to keep borders looking pristine, but you could use a spade and a long plank of wood if you don&rsquo;t have an edging tool to hand.</p>

<h2>7. Clean Out Bird Feeders</h2>

<p>If you have bird feeders or nesting boxes in your garden, autumn is a good time to clean and refresh them. Old nesting boxes may contain debris and old nesting materials, so use hot water to get rid of any potential contaminants. Similarly, feeders can be rinsed with water and washed out with a mild detergent before being dried and placed back in the garden.</p>

<p>Birds are more reliant on feeders in autumn and winter, which means that you might need to refill them more often. Cleaning them out and checking them for damage now will ensure you&rsquo;re able to continue feeding the birds and providing them with crucial nutritional support throughout autumn and winter.</p>

<h2>8. Add Colour to Your Garden</h2>

<p>Many people assume that spring is the only suitable time to plant anything new, but this isn&rsquo;t the case. In fact, the extra moisture from autumn rainfall can make it the ideal time to plant hardy annuals and autumn perennials, such as Hylotelephium, Asters, Colchicum autumnale, or Japanese anemones. If you want to inject some late colour into your garden, now is the time to do it!&nbsp; Violas and pansys also make a nice splash of colour to a border or selection of pation pots.</p>

<h2>Creating an Autumn Garden Checklist</h2>

<p>Whether you enjoy looking out over a lush lawn or you love being surrounded by colourful, aromatic blooms, prepping your garden for autumn allows you to get the most of it all year round. By protecting plants and lawns from winter damage, you can be confident that your garden will come bouncing back in spring. What&rsquo;s more &ndash; a little autumn prep means you can enjoy your garden for longer and make the most of balmy evenings and warmer temperatures while they last.</p>

8 Tips for Preparing your Garden for Autumn

<p>A <strong>fruit tree</strong> adds so much to a garden. Many make superb ornamental trees with their beautiful spring blossom, and some can even be grown in a large pot on a patio or balcony. Plus, you get to pick and enjoy your own home-grown fruit! To get you started, here are our top tips on growing fruit trees.</p>

<p>A <strong>fruit tree</strong> adds so much to a garden. Many make superb ornamental trees with their beautiful spring blossom, and some can even be grown in a large pot on a patio or balcony. Plus, you get to pick and enjoy your own home-grown fruit! To get you started, here are our top tips on growing fruit trees.</p>

<h2>Which fruit trees to grow</h2>

<p>For colder areas of the country, apple and plum trees are the best choice, planted in a sunny sheltered spot. In mild areas, there&rsquo;s a wide range of fruit trees to choose from, including pears, cherries and even apricots and nectarines in very sheltered sunny sites. Or, for a touch of Mediterranean atmosphere, try a fig tree, which has beautiful architectural leaves as well as a delicious fruit and will grow well in a large pot.</p>

<h2>Fruit trees for small gardens</h2>

<p>The size of a fruit tree is mainly determined by its rootstock, and trees are grown on very dwarfing, dwarfing, or semi-dwarfing rootstocks that are ideal for small spaces. If you want to grow fruit in a pot, look for a tree on a very dwarfing rootstock &ndash; this information will usually be on the plant label. Ballerina apples are ideal for pots, producing just one central stem with very short spurs bearing fruit. Espaliered or fan-trained fruit trees can be grown against a wall, taking up very little space.&nbsp;</p>

<p>If you only have space for one fruit tree, choose a self-pollinating variety. To produce fruit, some fruit trees need a pollination partner, i.e. another tree of the same type but a different variety. Still, self-pollinating fruit trees can produce fruit even if they are the only tree for miles around. Check the plant label or look up the various online to determine whether your preferred tree is self-pollinating.</p>

<h2>Tips on caring for fruit trees</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Give your fruit tree the best conditions for the best results - fertile, well-drained soil with lots of compost dug in and a sheltered, sunny position.</li>
	<li>If possible, plant fruit trees in winter while they are dormant so the roots can get settled before the tree starts growing again in spring.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Water newly planted trees weekly from spring to autumn, giving them at least one full watering can&rsquo;s worth of water.</li>
	<li>Keep the area around the tree roots clear of weeds and grass that compete with the tree for water and nutrients.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Feed fruit trees annually in late winter or early spring &ndash; different fruit trees need different types of fertiliser, so check your tree&rsquo;s requirements first.</li>
	<li>Mulch around the base of your tree with garden compost, leafmould or well-rotted manure in spring and autumn, making sure the mulch doesn&rsquo;t sit against the tree&#39;s trunk as this could cause rotting.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to grow your own fruit, visit our centre where we have a fantastic range of fruit trees as well as soft fruit and lots more. We&rsquo;re always happy to help with your gardening questions!</p>

Top tips for growing fruit trees

<p>The days might be getting shorter but there&rsquo;s still plenty to enjoy in your garden, with late-flowering plants and stunning autumn foliage setting the garden aglow with colour. It&rsquo;s time to harvest the veg, tidy up the beds and start thinking ahead to next spring. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening jobs for September</strong>.</p>

<p>The days might be getting shorter but there&rsquo;s still plenty to enjoy in your garden, with late-flowering plants and stunning autumn foliage setting the garden aglow with colour. It&rsquo;s time to harvest the veg, tidy up the beds and start thinking ahead to next spring. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening jobs for September</strong>.</p>

<h2>Top 15 Gardening Tips for September</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberry plants will be sending out runners now (long stems with tufts of leaves). If you want extra plants, peg the runners down in the ground to root and grow, otherwise cut them off to conserve the plants&rsquo; energy.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest the last of the maincrop potatoes. Cut off the foliage three weeks before you harvest, then dig up the potatoes and leave them to dry for a few hours before storing in paper bags or hessian sacks.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep picking the last of the French and runner beans. Once the plants have finished, cut them down to ground level, so that the roots can release their stored nitrogen back into the soil.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now&rsquo;s the time to prune summer raspberries, cutting back the fruited canes down to ground level and tying in this year&rsquo;s new canes to supports for next year&rsquo;s crop.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plums, pears and apples should all be ready to harvest now, as well as blackberries and autumn raspberries.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow poppies, nigella, cornflower and other hardy annuals now for a fantastic display of flowers next summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep deadheading dahlias, roses and penstemons for a last flush of flowers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back geraniums and other perennials as they fade. Now&rsquo;s also a good time to lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials like hardy geraniums, hostas and salvias.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, bluebells and other spring bulbs, except tulips which are better planted in November when the weather is colder to reduce the risk of viruses.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>As the grass starts to slow down, mow lawns less often and on a higher blade setting. Keep your lawn healthy by scarifying, aerating and feeding with an autumn lawn feed high in potassium.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pumpkins are starting to ripen now, so remove leaves to give them as much sun as possible. Put a slate tile under the fruits to keep them off damp ground.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water camellias and rhododendrons regularly now while they are developing next year&rsquo;s flower buds.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Protect brassicas like cabbage or kale from pigeons by covering them with netting stretched over canes. Peg the netting down tightly to stop birds getting their feet tangled in it.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Remove the shading from greenhouses as light levels drop.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Raise pots on pot feet to stop them getting waterlogged and frozen over winter.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re planting, picking or cutting back, you&rsquo;ll find everything you need in our centres. Visit us today and let us help you get your garden looking great this autumn.</p>

15 garden tips for September

<p>You can <strong>reduce weeds with mulch</strong> at most times of the year, but there are preferable seasons to help control weeds.</p>

<p>You can <strong>reduce weeds with mulch</strong> at most times of the year, but there are preferable seasons to help control weeds. In fact, mulch can be many different materials used for feeding the soil, decorative purposes, or just to cover an area ahead of a redesign. With so many options available to mulch in your garden or on your allotment, we have put together a list that will help you decide which to use.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>Woodchip</li>
	<li>Organic matter</li>
	<li>Straw / Hay</li>
	<li>Leaves</li>
	<li>Grass clippings</li>
</ol>

<h2>Reduce weeds with mulch and use wood chip</h2>

<p>You can use wood chips that both tidy up pathways and borders, helping to keep the weeds down. Woodchip matches any style garden, but if you are going to be digging a lot (such as on an allotment), you might want to keep the wood chip on the pathways instead of in the soil, so it doesn&rsquo;t get in the way. You can buy bags of wood chips or ask a local tree care company.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Organic matter can reduce weeds with mulch</h2>

<p>This can include animal manure or homemade compost. All can be used to keep weeds down in garden borders and vegetable gardens. Each has various benefits, such as animal manures will feed the soil, most will help retain moisture, but nothing beats homemade compost. You can use your own compost bins for garden and kitchen food waste and make your own, which is immensely satisfying! There are also mulches available that are made solely from plants and will also provide your soil with nutrients.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use straw or hay to reduce weeds with mulch</h2>

<p>Vegetable and fruit beds can be mulched with straw or hay as long as they are weed and seed free. It can really give a vegetable garden a great look, and as it breaks down, it will feed the soil. Please keep it away from stems/trunks as slugs and snails do tend to hide underneath.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Reduce weeds with mulch and use your grass cuttings</h2>

<p>When you have mown your lawn, the clippings can then be used to mulch vegetable beds. They will be full of nitrogen and feed the soil while excluding light from the weeds to stop them from growing.</p>

<p>Mulching keeps the garden not only looking neat but also replenishes the soil and helps to retain moisture. It can also improve the structure of the soil as well.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Visit our centre in %locations% and choose from our mulches in store. Get started in the garden and apply mulch.</p>

Reduce weeds with mulch

<p>This guide is <strong>how to prevent your plants from bolting,</strong> which can be so frustrating and happen really quickly in conditions that aren&rsquo;t ideal for your plants.</p>

<p>This guide is <strong>how to prevent your plants from bolting,</strong> which can be so frustrating and happen really quickly in conditions that aren&rsquo;t ideal for your plants.</p>

<h2>What is bolting?</h2>

<p>Bolting is when an edible plant such as lettuce/salads, some herbs, chard, spinach and other greens quickly go to seed much sooner than planned and usually before you&rsquo;ve been able to harvest. You can often spot the signs of bolting as the plants suddenly grow tall, and you can see flower heads forming. Unfortunately, when that happens, the flavour of the plant&nbsp;changes and makes some of the leaves and other parts bitter, so avoiding bolting is preferable.</p>

<h2>How to prevent your plants from bolting?</h2>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Make sure you plant out in the right season for your crops. Always read the seed packet when you start sowing seeds, harden them off before planting out and keep an eye on them. This will make sure they get the best chance at the right temperatures for them to grow.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It is all about avoiding stressing the plants. Keep them watered consistently rather than as and when, and it can also help if you have seedlings to pot them on before they get root-bound. Think about what the plant needs to thrive and stay on top of it truly.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather heats up, some plants get stressed at the rise of heat and the sudden changes, and you will notice they shoot upwards quickly. For many leafy greens that can be prone to this, please give them a little shade to keep them cool and less stressed.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Successional sowing can help keep you with plenty of delicious crops throughout the season rather than relying on one crop for a long season that may be more prone to bolting. Sow more seeds every two weeks between spring and summer, which should mean you are harvesting into late summer/early autumn.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pick the right varieties of plants that are &lsquo;bolt hardy&rsquo; or &lsquo;bolt resistant&rsquo; as they have been bred to cope better in conditions that might usually make them &lsquo;go to seed&rsquo; much quicker. There are many varieties available. Another way is to sow &lsquo;cut and come again&rsquo; varieties where you continuously cut the leaves, and the plant keeps on growing.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plants bolt due to sharp changes in temperature, perhaps the length of the day or any number of other factors that cause plants to feel stressed. If that stress is not just short period plants, grow to produce flowers for seed which is an incredible process of ensuring their species continues to survive.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>For seed varieties and advice, visit our friendly team in store and us.&nbsp;</p>

How to prevent your plants from bolting

<p>Tired of double-digging your vegetable garden? Take heart &ndash; there is another way. <strong>No-dig gardening</strong> is an increasingly popular way of gardening that minimises disturbance to the soil, leaving the natural soil organisms to do the hard work for you.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Tired of double-digging your vegetable garden? Take heart &ndash; there is another way. <strong>No-dig gardening</strong> is an increasingly popular way of gardening that minimises disturbance to the soil, leaving the natural soil organisms to do the hard work for you.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>What is no-dig gardening?</h2>

<p>No-dig gardening is just what it says &ndash; a way of gardening with a minimal amount of digging. It&rsquo;s perfect for allotments and vegetable gardens that would traditionally be dug over every year.</p>

<h2>The benefits of no-dig gardening</h2>

<p>Less digging means less interference with the soil&rsquo;s ecosystem. This allows the natural soil organisms and bacteria to work undisturbed, creating a structure and environment that allows plants to thrive.</p>

<p>No-dig gardening can also reduce weeding &ndash; a big benefit for any gardener! We&rsquo;ve all seen how weeds can spring upon the soil that&rsquo;s been dug over, as the weed seeds are exposed to sunlight and germinate. However, once a no-dig regime has been properly established, there&rsquo;s much less soil disturbance and consequently fewer weeds. The improved soil structure also means that even deep-rooted weeds like bindweed are easier to pull out.</p>

<h2>How to start incorporating no-dig practices into your garden.</h2>

<p>One thing no-dig gardening does require is a large amount of organic material for mulching, so it&rsquo;s best to start with a small area of your vegetable plot and gradually extend it. Well-rotted compost is better than straw or woodchip as it provides fewer places for slugs to hide.</p>

<p>As well as compost, you&rsquo;ll also need something to exclude light from the soil. Cardboard sheets are ideal because they will eventually break down and decompose, or you could use a water-permeable weed membrane.</p>

<ol>
	<li>To clear an area, slash all tall weeds to ground level and compost them. Dig out any woody dock and bramble roots as far as possible.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Lay the cardboard sheets on the soil, cover them with a deep layer of mulch, 15-20cm thick, and tread it down. If you are using a weed membrane, lay the mulch down first, then lay the membrane on top. Leave the area alone for at least 6 months. The result should be rich, friable soil, with any remaining weed roots easy to pull out. Regular hoeing will take care of annual weeds with minimal soil disturbance.</li>
	<li>For areas that are planted up already, apply a layer of mulch at least 15cm thick and firm it down. Eventually, the soil below will become friable as organisms work it, and weeds can be easily pulled up. An annual application of a 5cm layer of mulch in autumn will help keep the soil in good condition.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need to keep your garden in shape, you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre! Visit us today to see our wide range of tools, soil improvers and other great gardening products.</p>

No dig gardening

<p>Here&rsquo;s a brief guide to the differences between summer and winter pruning.</p>

<h2>Why should we prune trees and shrubs?</h2>

<p>Pruning shrubs and trees gives them a better shape, encourages new growth and more fruit and flowers, and removes old deadwood. Knowing when to prune is just as important as knowing which branches to cut, and pruning at different times of the year will affect your plants. Here&rsquo;s a brief guide to the differences between summer and winter pruning.</p>

<h2>Summer pruning</h2>

<p>In general, pruning plants in summer when they are fully growing tends to reduce their vigour, so it&rsquo;s a useful way of restricting the size of over-vigorous trees and shrubs.</p>

<p>Some shrubs and trees need to be pruned in summer rather than at any other time of year. Trees in the Prunus family, including plum, cherry, damson and flowering cherry trees, should only be pruned in summer to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. This is a fungal disease spread by airborne spores in May and September, so summer pruning gives the pruning cuts time to heal while no spores are floating around to infect them.</p>

<p>Spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia, weigela and philadelphus produce flowers on shoots produced the previous year, so pruning too late in the year risks cutting off these shoots, reducing the next year&rsquo;s flowering. Summer pruning gives these plants time to produce next year&rsquo;s shoots before their growth slows down for winter.</p>

<p>Apple and pear trees trained as fans, espaliers and cordons are also pruned in summer, cutting back vigorous new growth so that sunlight can ripen the fruit.</p>

<h2>Winter pruning</h2>

<p>Pruning is often easier in winter, as many trees and shrubs lose their leaves, making it easier to see dead or damaged branches that need to be removed.</p>

<p>Some plants, such as Japanese maples, can only be pruned in winter, as they bleed too much sap if they are pruned during their growing season. Birches are best pruned between autumn and mid-winter to avoid excessive sap bleeding. Free-standing apple and pear trees are pruned in winter to encourage them to produce vigorous new fruit-bearing shoots.</p>

<p>As a rule, winter pruning encourages vigorous new growth in spring, so it&rsquo;s a good time to prune deciduous shrubs that have become overgrown and unproductive (but check first on the specific pruning requirements for each shrub).</p>

<h2>Pruning tips</h2>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re pruning in summer or winter, these tips will help you achieve the best results:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Make sure your secateurs or loppers are sharp so that they make a clean cut.</li>
	<li>When pruning, cut just above a bud, making a cut slanting away from the bud so that rainwater runs off the cut face easily.</li>
	<li>Work slowly and keep standing back to check how much you&rsquo;ve cut off. Remember, you can&rsquo;t put it back!</li>
</ul>

<p>Need new pruning tools? You&rsquo;ll find secateurs, loppers and a range of other tools in our centre, as well as everything else you need to keep your garden looking good this summer.</p>

Summer and winter pruning

<p>Growing your own fruit and vegetables can be very rewarding. But sometimes, it can also feel like a battle, with every creature in your garden just waiting for the chance to devour your carefully nurtured plants. Here are our <strong>top tips on keeping your crops safe</strong> from everything that wants to eat them.</p>

<p>Growing your own fruit and vegetables can be very rewarding. But sometimes, it can also feel like a battle, with every creature in your garden just waiting for the chance to devour your carefully nurtured plants. Here are our <strong>top tips on keeping your crops safe</strong> from everything that wants to eat them.</p>

<h2>Slugs and snails</h2>

<p>These slimy critters are consistently top of gardeners&rsquo; lists of most hated garden pests, coming in under cover of darkness and demolishing plants and seedlings.&nbsp; Keep on top of them with these tips:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Untidy gardens give slugs and snails plenty of places to hide, so clear out the clutter. Remove old leaves and weeds, and put them on your compost heap far away from beds.</li>
	<li>Copper tape around the tops of pots discourages slugs and snails, as they don&rsquo;t like to cross it.</li>
	<li>One of the most effective ways to protect your plants is to go slug-hunting late at night with a torch, remove any slugs and snails from your plants and dispose of them.</li>
	<li>And of course, if nothing else works, there are always slug pellets but do make sure always to use environmentally-friendly pellets.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Rabbits and deer</h2>

<p>Rabbits and deer might look cute, but they&rsquo;re not good news in the vegetable garden, devouring all your precious seedlings. Good fencing is the best defence against these hungry visitors. The fencing should go down 30cm (1ft) below ground to stop rabbits burrowing under it. A 1.2m (4ft) high fence should keep the rabbits out &ndash; for deer, make it 1.8m (6ft) high. Surround young tree seedlings with wire to stop rabbits gnawing the bark and killing the tree.</p>

<p>You can buy chemical repellants for both rabbits and deer at garden centres. They need to be applied regularly to be effective. You can also try soaking cotton wool buds in peppermint oil and leaving them around the garden, replacing them regularly.</p>

<h2>Birds</h2>

<p>Birds will peck at the leaves of vegetables, especially brassicas like kale and cabbage, and strip fruit bushes. To protect soft fruit, net the bushes once the fruit ripens, keeping the netting taut so that small birds don&rsquo;t get tangled in it. Protect brassicas with netting supported on canes or hoops.</p>

<h2>Squirrels</h2>

<p>Squirrels are notorious for digging up spring bulbs planted in pots and beds, especially tulip and early iris bulbs, which they see as a tasty meal especially buried for their convenience.</p>

<p>To deter squirrels, peg down chicken wire over areas planted with bulbs. This stops the squirrels from digging, and the bulbs can grow up through the wire. You can remove the wire once shoots start appearing, as squirrels seem less inclined to dig up bulbs once they have started to grow.</p>

<p>We have a wide range of solutions in the centre to keep your plants safe and healthy, so visit us today. Our staff are always happy to advise!</p>

How to keep your crops safe from animals

<p>August means holidays are here, so take some time to enjoy your garden and reap the benefits of all your hard work throughout the year. There&rsquo;s still plenty to do, though, and our <strong>top gardening tips for August</strong> will help you keep your garden looking great right through summer.</p>

<p>August means holidays are here, so take some time to enjoy your garden and reap the benefits of all your hard work throughout the year. There&rsquo;s still plenty to do, though, and our <strong>top gardening tips for August</strong> will help you keep your garden looking great right through summer.</p>

<h2>Gardening tips for August</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead dahlias, daylilies and petunias regularly to keep them flowering through to autumn. Repeat-flowering roses should be deadheaded too, but leave rugosa roses alone to develop their brightly coloured hips for winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Camellias and rhododendrons need regular watering now, as they&rsquo;re producing the buds for next year&rsquo;s flowers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim lavender once the flowers have faded, taking care not to cut back into old wood.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune rambling roses, removing one in three flowering stems, and tying the remaining stems into supports.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give wisteria its summer pruning, cutting back all this year&rsquo;s long whippy shoots to five or six leaves.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out the growing tips of cordon tomatoes, runner beans and squash plants. This will focus the plants&rsquo; energies on producing more fruit.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim herbs like thyme, mint and basil to give you the last flush of delicious new leaves before autumn arrives.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberry plants will be producing runners now. Peg these down in the ground or in little pots, and they will grow into new plants for next spring. If you don&rsquo;t need any new plants, cut the runners off.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Feed container-grown fruit and veg like tomatoes, blueberries and peppers fortnightly with a high potash feed to boost fruit production. Feed citrus plants weekly with a specialist citrus feed.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Net fruit to protect it from birds, pegging the netting down taut to stop birds getting tangled in it, and check it at least twice a day.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It&rsquo;s time to start harvesting maincrop potatoes. Once their foliage fades, wait a week or two, then lift them carefully with a border fork.&nbsp; Cucumbers, courgettes, runner and French beans, beetroots, onions, carrots and tomatoes should also be ready to harvest now, as will plums, peaches and the first of the apples.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the leaves of onions, shallots and garlic turn yellow and flop over, it&rsquo;s time to lift them as well. Put them somewhere warm for a few days to dry out before storing them.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow salads like rocket, mizuna and lamb&rsquo;s lettuce for a supply of tasty leaves through autumn into early winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep mowing the lawn, but raise the blade height in long dry periods to avoid stressing the grass.&nbsp; If you&rsquo;re planning to sow seed or lay new turf in autumn, start preparing the area now to give the soil a chance to settle.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Finally, it might be mid-summer, but it&rsquo;s never too early to think about next year&rsquo;s garden. Spring bulbs will be in the garden centres soon, so start planning your planting now.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need to keep your garden looking great this summer, you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre. Visit us soon and see what&rsquo;s in store!</p>

15 gardening tips for August

<p>Choose the <strong>best plants for a window kitchen garden</strong> to ensure you have a thriving place in your kitchen full of plants.</p>

<p>Choose the <strong>best plants for a window kitchen garden</strong> to ensure you have a thriving place in your kitchen full of plants. Whether you have a garden and just want to make the most of your space indoors as well, or if you only have indoor space to grow and want to make the most of every inch, this list of plants will help you get botanical inside on any windowsill. There are many options, and in fact, you go traditional or tropical and edible to ornamental with a little plant creativity. Your windowsill will look wonderful.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Herbs are the best plants for a window kitchen garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Undoubtedly herbs are at the top of the list for a kitchen windowsill. Not only can many be grown indoors, but they can be easy to grow, care for and productive. Jut a quick snip, and you have fresh leaves for cooking, baking or drink decorations. Try Basil &lsquo;Purple Ruffels&rsquo; for all of the flavour with deep purple foliage. Coriander is a great herb to grow to garnish curry, and Oregano is a versatile herb for cooking with.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>More best plants for a window kitchen garden include edible flowers&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Herbs aren&rsquo;t the only edibles for a kitchen windowsill. There are many edible flowers that you could also grow inside. Try these:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Violas for cake decorating and popping into ice trays for a summer drink</li>
	<li>Nasturtiums can trail along and down the window ledge to use the flowers and foliage in salads. Best of all, mix these edibles with herbs for a lovely display.</li>
	<li>Nasturtium &lsquo;Ladybird Rose&rsquo; has a pink tinge,</li>
	<li>Discover the bright orange and reds of varieties such as &lsquo;Empress of India&rsquo;.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Microgreens are the best plants for a window kitchen garden</h2>

<p>Some of the most simple, nutritious edibles to grow are microgreens. Great for small spaces, sow plenty of seeds in a seed tray or recycled food container in compost. Keep them moist and harvest when they are no bigger than 10cm. You can grow all kinds of microgreens, from sprouts to radish and beetroot to fenugreek. All delicious, fast-growing and full of nutrition.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Tropical plants are the best plants for a window kitchen garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many tropical plants we can grow in the UK inside rather than outside. Hibiscus, small citrus trees (if you have a larger window space), Oxalis and Orchids are all incredibly colourful and grow well inside. Add in a Fuchsia, and you can even make Fuchsia jam with the berries!&nbsp;</p>

<p>As you can see, you needn&rsquo;t be restricted by space, and there is always more room for plants on any windowsill!&nbsp;</p>

<p>Create your kitchen garden with seeds and plants from in store and get advice from our friendly team.&nbsp;</p>

Best plants for a window kitchen garden 

<p><strong>Alpine troughs</strong> are compact, easy to plant and very low-maintenance, so they&rsquo;re perfect for gardeners short on time or space. As the name suggests, alpine plants come from mountain regions, so they&rsquo;re used to tough conditions.&nbsp; Planting an alpine trough is a great way to appreciate these fascinating plants and provide long-lasting interest for a pot on a patio or balcony. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<p><strong>Alpine troughs</strong> are compact, easy to plant and very low-maintenance, so they&rsquo;re perfect for gardeners short on time or space. As the name suggests, alpine plants come from mountain regions, so they&rsquo;re used to tough conditions.&nbsp; Planting an alpine trough is a great way to appreciate these fascinating plants and provide long-lasting interest for a pot on a patio or balcony. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<h2>What you&rsquo;ll need to plant an alpine trough</h2>

<ul>
	<li>A shallow container or trough with good drainage holes</li>
	<li>Loam-based compost such as John Innes no 2</li>
	<li>Horticultural grit</li>
	<li>Rocks for decoration if available</li>
	<li>Alpine plants</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to plant an alpine trough</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Choose the position for your alpine trough. Most alpines do best in the sun, although some will grow in light shade.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>The key to growing alpines is good drainage &ndash; they hate sitting with their roots in wet soil. Raise your trough on pot feet to improve drainage, and place pot shards or squares of shade netting over the holes to stop them from getting blocked up with compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill the trough with a 50/50 mix of a loam-based compost like John Innes no 2 and horticultural grit to about 2cm below the pot&#39;s lip.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you have a few interesting-looking rocks, arrange them in the compost to create the look of a mountainous environment.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant your alpines among the rocks.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Top-dress with a layer of grit. This keeps in moisture, suppresses weeds and stops the plants from being splashed with mud when it rains.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<h2>Caring for alpine plants</h2>

<p>Most alpines are reasonably drought-tolerant but water the containers during long dry periods to stop the compost from drying out completely. Deadhead plants after they have flowered.</p>

<p>In winter, move the trough into the rain-shadow of a house to shelter it from excessive winter rain.</p>

<h2>Plants for an alpine trough</h2>

<p>There&rsquo;s a wide range of alpine plants to choose from. Here are a few of our favourites:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Armeria (sea thrift)</strong>: Pretty pink flowers bob on slender stems above a mat of evergreen grass-like foliage. Deadhead faded flowers to keep it flowering.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Phlox douglasii Crackerjack</strong>: A semi-evergreen creeping phlox with small leaves, covered in a mass of bright pink flowers in late spring and early summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Sedum cauticola (stonecrop)</strong>: A low, spreading sedum with small rounded blue-green leaves and clusters of small pink flowers in autumn.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Saxifraga (saxifrage)</strong>: Rosettes of fleshy leaves form mats, with clusters of small pink or white flowers float above the leaves on wiry stems. Good for shady spots.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Lewisia</strong>: Colourful star-shaped flowers in late spring and early summer. It prefers damper soil to most other alpines.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Sempervivums</strong>: Evergreen succulents come in a wide range of colours and sizes, forming rosettes of fleshy leaves. Very tough and easy to grow.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>It&#39;s fun starting on a new project this summer. Gardening relieves stress and is healthy at the same time. We have a great range of alpines and other plants in our centre, so visit us soon and get some inspiration for your next gardening project!</p>

How to plant an alpine trough

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Think about <strong>cost effective vegetables to grow</strong>, so not only will your kitchen garden be thriving and full of produce, but you will be sure to save plenty of money as well.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Think about <strong>cost effective vegetables to grow</strong>, so not only will your kitchen garden be thriving and full of produce, but you will be sure to save plenty of money as well. Purchasing fruit and vegetables from the supermarket can soon add up, but sowing and growing from seed can save plenty of money and be full of fun as you soak up the best of gardening. We have put together this list of vegetables that you can grow easily in your garden and will provide you with plenty of crops. Some are even hard to find in the supermarket!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2>Vegetables you can grow easily in your garden</h2>

<h3><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">1. Courgettes and Pumpkins</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Sow squash seeds, and you are sure to get great germination rates, and as they are easy to grow, you can grow them just about anywhere. Courgettes will keep coming all summer long into autumn and are superb value, full of nutrition and easy to cook with. Pumpkins last ages in storage and can provide you with a lot of autumn and winter food.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">2. Asparagus&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">The spears of delicious and nutritious asparagus can be expensive to purchase from the shops. Hence, creating an asparagus bed is a great way to ensure you have the seasonal goodness of these well sought after vegetables. Plant crowns, and although you will need to wait until year two or even three for a full harvest, it is definitely worth the wait.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">3. Swiss chard&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Probably the easiest leafy greens to grow. Sow seeds; they germinate well and will grow in abundance in the garden or allotment. They can grow in pots and containers as well. If you let some go to seed, you can collect the seeds for the following year or allow them to self-seed and grow where they want to!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>4.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Kale&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">With the many varieties available and the tasty green leaves, Kale is an easy crop to grow and looks great in an autumn/winter garden. Keep the slugs and pigeons off it with some netting, and you will be with a long supply of vegetables for many months.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>5.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Lettuce</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Harvesting lettuce from pots, containers or in beds and borders is satisfying and so easy! Sow seeds successionally every couple of weeks from spring to late summer, then choose winter varieties to get you through the winter, and you can grow almost all year round!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>6.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Beetroot</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Another easy crop to grow that will supply you with plenty of beets that you can pickle and store for a long time. Try Rainbow beetroot for orange and white layers in your jar of pickled beets for an extra special rainbow colour of goodness.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Come in store to find all the seeds you need for cost effective vegetable growing.&nbsp;</span></p>

Cost effective vegetables to grow

<p>With so many different types of <strong>Clematis</strong> available, it&rsquo;s possible to have one in flower almost all year round, covering walls, fences and trellises with their spectacular flowers. Here are a few tips to help you get the best out of your clematis.&nbsp;</p>

<p>With so many different types of <strong>Clematis</strong> available, it&rsquo;s possible to have one in flower almost all year round, covering walls, fences and trellises with their spectacular flowers. Here are a few tips to help you get the best out of your clematis.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Clematis groups and pruning</h2>

<p>Clematis are divided into three groups based on their flowering time and their pruning requirements.</p>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Group 1</strong>:&nbsp;These are the winter and early spring flowering clematis, like Clematis cirrhosa, Clematis montana and Clematis armandii. They don&rsquo;t need regular pruning but can be cut back immediately after flowering to keep them to size.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Group 2</strong>: These clematises produce large flowers in early summer and often flower again in late summer. Prune in late winter or early spring, cutting down all stems by at least one-third to above a strong bud lower down the stem.</li>
	<li><strong>Group 3</strong>: These clematises flower late summer and should be hard pruned in late winter or early spring. Cut all stems back to a strong set of buds around 15-45cm (6-18in) above ground level.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<h2>Tips on growing clematis</h2>

<p><strong>The best time to plant a clematis is in spring or early autumn when the soil is warm and moist.</strong> Clematis will cope with a range of soils, but they prefer a fertile, moist but well-drained soil, so dig in some compost or leafmould before planting. Although most clematis flower best in the sun, they like to have their roots in cool, moist soil. Putting slate or pebbles around the base of the plant helps to shade the roots and keep them cool.</p>

<p>When planting large-flowered clematis, plant them deeply so that the top of the rootball is around 7.5cm (3in) below soil level. This encourages the growth of new shoots and can also help the plant recover if it is affected by clematis wilt.&nbsp; To plant a clematis in pots, use a pot at least 45cm in diameter and fill it with a loam-based compost like John Innes no 2. Top dress with pebbles or gravel to keep the clematis roots cool.</p>

<p>Feed clematis in early spring with a high potash feed like rose fertiliser and mulch with compost after feeding. Feed container-grown plants monthly in spring and summer with a general-purpose liquid fertiliser.</p>

<h2>Clematis wilt</h2>

<p>Clematis wilt is a fungal disease that causes clematis leaves to shrivel and stems to wilt. However, wilting can also be caused by a lack of water or physical damage to the plant stems, so always check your plant&rsquo;s environment first before diagnosing clematis wilt.</p>

<p>To treat clematis wilt, cut out and dispose of all affected material, disinfecting your tools afterwards. To reduce the risk of disease, plant clematis deeply, with space around them for good air circulation, and mulch annually &ndash; this reduces stress on the plant and makes it less prone to infection.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a fantastic range of clematis and other flowering climbers in our centre, so visit us today to find the one that&rsquo;s perfect for your garden.</p>

How to grow Clematis

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">It&rsquo;s fun <strong>landscaping with succulents</strong>, especially in the garden&#39;s dry areas, or simply creating&nbsp;a stunning display. They are a wonderful and easy collection of plants to include in any garden.</span></p>

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">It&rsquo;s fun <strong>landscaping with succulents</strong>, especially in the garden&#39;s dry areas, or simply creating&nbsp;a stunning display. They are a wonderful and easy collection of plants to include in any garden. They grow well on patios and balconies and are being used much more in landscaping schemes due to the changing climate and plant trends. Here is our guide to ensuring you create an inspired and thriving succulent garden.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Pick your site for landscaping with succulents&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Succulents are native desert pants, so considering this, a dry, sunny site is best. Some will grow in part shade, but mostly they will need some sunshine. However, in some cases, prolonged exposure to sunshine can do more harm than good, so giving them some shade will be helpful.</span></p>

<h2><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Use your houseplants for landscaping with succulents&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">If you want to&nbsp;keep your indoor succulents thriving and try out some ideas in the garden, move your indoor succulents outside during the warmer months and place them where you are thinking of planting to help you decide what and where to plant them.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Landscaping with succulents choices&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">These are succulents you can use for landscaping in the garden. Remember that succulents fancy dry spots. Therefore, use them on a sloping&nbsp;hill in the garden. Here are our favourite</span><span>&nbsp;succulents you can grow outside, but there are many more to choose from. Consider their mature size when designing your succulent garden, so they have plenty of space and airflow to grow well.&nbsp;</span></p>

<ul dir="ltr">
	<li><span>Aeonium,</span></li>
	<li><span>Agave</span></li>
	<li><span>Aloe</span></li>
	<li><span>Crassula</span></li>
	<li><span>Echeveria</span></li>
	<li><span>Haworthia</span></li>
	<li><span>Kalanchoe</span></li>
	<li><span>Sedums</span></li>
</ul>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Planting and watering when landscaping with succulents is important&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Soil with plenty of sand or horticultural grit is needed because of succulents like well-drained soil and never waterlogged or heavy. A great tip is to make the hole where you will be planting just big enough for the root ball, but then don&rsquo;t backfill. This allows the soil to backfill naturally and the roots time to establish close to the surface, which will benefit the succulents. Succulents do need water, just not as much as many other plants. So water them well but not too often.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Patterns when landscaping with succulents</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">When you plant succulents close together, you have the opportunity to create a beautiful piece of art full of different colours, shapes and textures. From swirls to even letters, the options are endless and can provide a great focal point in the garden, either in a garden bed or a tabletop display. You can also use succulents in what would be considered a traditional rock garden. Instead of using alpines, why not plant succulents instead. Along with this, especially in a small space, you can use your vertical areas to create a succulent living wall.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Succulents allow you to get really creative and design around pathways, in planters, up walls, in a rockery that will provide you with a great garden and be good for the dryer garden planting that we expect going into the future.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">We have many different succulents for you to landscape your garden with, visit us in store to find your perfect plants.&nbsp;</span></p>

Landscaping with succulents

<p>If you&rsquo;re lucky enough to have <strong>a garden that gets full sun</strong>, there&rsquo;s a huge range of plants you can grow. Most flowering plants are happy in the sun, and here are some that just love to soak up those rays.&nbsp;</p>

<p>If you&rsquo;re lucky enough to have <strong>a garden that gets full sun</strong>, there&rsquo;s a huge range of plants you can grow. Most flowering plants are happy in the sun, and here are some that love to soak up those rays.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Sun-loving herbs</h2>

<p>Mediterranean herbs including rosemary, thyme, lavender and oregano all love the sun and will also grow in relatively poor soil, making them very easy to grow in any garden. As well as being useful in the kitchen, these herbs also have beautiful flowers that look good in the garden and are fantastic for bees and other pollinators.</p>

<h2>Drought tolerant plants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The downside of a garden in full sun is that everything can get very hot and dry in summer. If you don&rsquo;t want to have to spend all your time watering, it&rsquo;s a good idea to incorporate some drought-tolerant plants. Here are a few to start with:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Stachys byzantina (lamb&rsquo;s ears): a beautiful groundcover plant with large silvery leaves covered in tiny soft hairs, giving them their common name of lamb&rsquo;s ear. They produce short purple flower spires in summer, but the real attraction is the silvery foliage.</li>
	<li>Sedum (now called Hylotelephium, also known as stonecrop): succulents with fleshy green or purple leaves and clusters of flowers in late summer that magnet for bees.</li>
	<li>Cistus (rockrose): an evergreen shrub covered in large pink or white flowers in summer.</li>
	<li>Eryngium: a sun-loving perennial with fabulous steel-blue spiky flowers that bees love.</li>
	<li>Lychnis coronaria: a perennial that self-seeds liberally, with silver foliage and bright pink or pure white flowers in summer.</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to be waterwise</h2>

<p>Sunny gardens will need some watering, but it&rsquo;s important to use it effectively, with water becoming a precious resource. Here are few simple ways to be more waterwise in your garden.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Mulch beds annually with a thick layer of organic matter such as well-rotted farmyard manure or compost. This improves soil structure and helps the soil retain moisture, reducing water beds during dry periods. Ideally, do your mulching in autumn or early winter once all your perennials have been cut back and you have space to work in the bed. With a bit of luck, earthworms and other soil organisms will help work the mulch into the soil over winter. You can also mulch in spring.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>When watering in new shrubs and trees, please give them a thorough watering every few days. This encourages the roots to grow deep and is better for your plants than a little watering every day.</li>
	<li>Water in the morning or evening when it&rsquo;s cooler and less water will be lost through evaporation.</li>
	<li>Install a water butt to collect rainwater for use in dry periods.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you want to learn more about waterwise gardening, we recommend you to read our previous articles about this topic. It&#39;s important to know how precious water is, and how to use it wisely.</p>

<p>Get your garden looking great this summer with some sun-loving plants from our exciting range. Visit our centre soon to see what&rsquo;s new!</p>

Sun-loving plants

<p>Easily <strong>avoid these Hydrangea care mistakes</strong> and ensure your Hydrangeas all thrive for a long time, whether they are in a pot or a garden border.</p>

<p>Easily <strong>avoid these Hydrangea care mistakes</strong> and ensure your Hydrangeas all thrive for a long time, whether they are in a pot or a garden border. Hydrangeas are one of the most well known, recognised and popular garden plants. They come in colour ranges&nbsp;from acidic blue to white, baby pink and vibrant pink varieties that really stand out. There are so many varieties available to choose from that there is most definitely one for every taste. Along with our tips below, here are a few varieties that we love:&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Favourite Hydrangea varieties</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Hydrangea paniculata &lsquo;Vanilla Fraise&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea macrophylla &lsquo;Bavaria&#39;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea arborescens &lsquo;Annabelle&#39;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea quercifolia &#39;Snow Queen&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea macrophylla &lsquo;Glam Rock&rsquo;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Here is how to avoid Hydrangea care mistakes&nbsp;</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Aspect</strong>:<br />
	Don&rsquo;t plant them in full sun. Hydrangeas aren&rsquo;t particularly happy in full sun if the soil is dry. They will grow in full sun, but you will need to make sure they don&rsquo;t dry out and get stressed. Ideally, planting them in dappled/part shade is the best position for them, even full shade with moist conditions. Morning sun is better than afternoon sun, so find the perfect spot for your Hydrangeas according to the shade in your garden.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>pH</strong>:<br />
	Please don&rsquo;t assume they will keep their colour. The pH of your soil can alter the colour of your Hydrangeas. For example, if you buy a blue variety and plant it neutral to alkaline pH soil, you will find the colour will change, and you may wonder why! To keep the blue Hydrangeas a stunning blue, plant them in acidic soil or a pot with ericaceous compost.</li>
	<li><strong>Pruning</strong>:<br />
	Don&rsquo;t snip away without knowing which type you are growing. Hydrangeas are hardy, deciduous shrubs. Some can even climb, and others will stay small. With so many different types, make sure you read the label to know which one you are choosing. There are various pruning methods according to the type you have. Here are some common</li>
</ol>

<h2>Hydrangea pruning mistakes explained</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Hydrangea macrophylla and Hydrangea serrata can be pruned during springtime. However, their flowers are produced on old wood, so if you prune them back too hard, the flowers for summer will be lost.</li>
	<li>Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea aborescens can be cut back in the springtime. They can be left unpruned but do get tall with flowers mostly at the top. They can be cut back hard without affecting this year&rsquo;s flowers.</li>
	<li>Hydrangea aspera and Hydrangea quercifolia can be lightly pruned in spring by removing old, crossing stems and old flower heads.</li>
	<li>Hydrangea petiolaris can be pruned after flowering during the summer months. Cut back the shoots that have flowered to a pair of new buds.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>Hydrangeas are stunning garden plants and also provide lots of food and shelter for garden wildlife. There is a Hydrangea for every garden.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a range of Hydrangeas and other garden shrubs for your garden in store. Hydrangeas are easy garden plants if you take care of them the right way. At our garden centre, we have all kind of professionals that walk around to give you the best advice on Hydrangea caring. We look forward to welcoming you to our garden centre.</p>

Avoid these Hydrangea care mistakes

<p>In July, the garden is in full swing, with flowers blooming everywhere you look and vegetable beds full of crops to be harvested. So please make the most of your garden this month with our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for July</strong>.</p>

<p>In July, the garden is in full swing, with flowers blooming everywhere you look and vegetable beds full of crops to be harvested. So please make the most of your garden this month with our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for July</strong>.</p>

<h2>Top 15 gardening tips for July</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Get a head-start on next spring&rsquo;s flowers by sowing biennials like wallflowers, foxgloves and honesty now.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow lettuce rocket and radish seeds regularly for summer salads. Lettuce tends to bolt (i.e. go to seed) quickly in hot weather, so sow it where it will get some shade during the hottest part of the day.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you sowed winter cabbages and leeks earlier in the year, transplant the seedlings now to their final positions.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water vegetables regularly. It&rsquo;s crucial to give tomatoes a consistent amount of water if possible, as the fruits will split if they get a sudden heavy watering after a dry period.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Feed tomatoes, courgettes, peppers and cucumbers fortnightly with a high potash liquid feed to promote flowers and fruit. Container-grown blueberries and gooseberries will also appreciate a fortnightly high-potash feed (tomato feed is ideal).</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out sideshoots on cordon tomatoes (these are the little leafy shoots that appear where the leaf stems join the main stem).</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Watch out for blossom end rot on tomatoes. This appears as sunken brown patches at the lower end of the fruit and means the plant isn&rsquo;t getting enough calcium. Regular watering will usually solve the problem, although you will have to discard badly affected fruits.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out the growing tips of broad beans once the first pods appear. This will reduce aphid attacks and also gives you bushy plants that produce more beans.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Earth up maincrop potatoes to stop the light getting to them and turning them green and toxic. Harvest early potatoes in July, but dig up one or two first to check that they are big enough to harvest.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pick courgettes and beans regularly to keep the plants producing more.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead roses and sweet peas, or cut the flowers for the house to encourage the plants to keep flowering.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back faded perennials like geraniums for a second flush of flowers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give wisteria its summer prune, cutting back all this year&rsquo;s long whippy shoots back to five or six leaves from the main stem.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water in the mornings or evenings when it&rsquo;s cooler to reduce water loss through evaporation.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Mow lawns regularly, but raise your mower&rsquo;s blades during hot, dry periods to reduce stress on the grass. Try not to water your lawn in dry periods &ndash; it may go a bit brown, but it will bounce back as soon as the next rain arrives.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you&rsquo;re doing in your garden this month, we&rsquo;ve got everything you need in our centre. So visit us today for all your gardening needs!</p>

15 Gardening tips for July

<p>Like us, plants need food to grow and stay healthy. They get most of their nutrients from the soil, but houseplants grown in pots will quickly use up all the nutrients in fresh compost. So to&nbsp;<strong>keep your houseplants healthy</strong> and to look good, it&rsquo;s important to <strong>feed them regularly</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why houseplants need feeding</h2>

<p>Like us, plants need food to grow and stay healthy. They get most of their nutrients from the soil, but houseplants grown in pots will quickly use up all the nutrients in fresh compost. So to&nbsp;<strong>keep your houseplants healthy</strong> and to look good, it&rsquo;s important to <strong>feed them regularly</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Types of houseplant feed</h2>

<p>All plant fertilisers contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are essential for plant growth. Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) promotes healthy leaves, phosphorus (chemical symbol P) is needed for roots and shoots, and potassium (chemical symbol K) for the growth of flowers and fruit. The percentage of each of these elements in fertiliser will be shown on the packaging and is often referred to as the NPK ratio.&nbsp;</p>

<p>A balanced fertiliser will contain similar levels of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. For example, Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Plant Food (a balanced feed) has an NPK ratio of 20 &ndash; 20 - 20, whereas a high nitrogen feed like Baby Bio has an NPK ratio of 10.6 - 4.4 - 1.7.</p>

<p>High nitrogen feeds are good for foliage plants, helping them produce lots of big, healthy leaves. On the other hand, flowering houseplants need a high potash (potassium) feed which boosts the production of flowers. Specialist feeds are available for many plants, including cacti and succulents, citrus plants and orchids.</p>

<h2>How to feed houseplants</h2>

<p>Like other plants, houseplants need feeding most during their growing period, which is usually spring and summer.</p>

<p>As a general rule, feed your houseplants fortnightly in spring and summer, and reduce this to a monthly feed in autumn and winter.</p>

<p>Here are a few tips on how to feed some of the more specialist houseplants:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Streptocarpus</strong>: Feed with a general-purpose houseplant feed in spring, then change to a high potash feed in summer to promote flowering. Use a specialist Streptocarpus food, or use tomato feed diluted to at least half-strength.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Orchids</strong>: Take care not to over-feed. If you are using a general houseplant feed on your orchids, dilute it to quarter strength, or use a specialist orchid feed and follow the instructions on the pack.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Cacti and succulents</strong>:&nbsp;These can survive with minimal feeding, but they will flower more if fed. Use a specialist cactus and succulent feed in spring and summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Citrus plants</strong>: Citrus trees are ravenous plants, so feed every two weeks in spring and summer with a high-nitrogen citrus summer fertiliser and a specialised citrus winter feed during the winter months.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Carnivorous plants</strong>: These grow best in very poor soil and don&rsquo;t usually need extra feeding, provided they are placed where they can catch their own food.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>Need advice on what to feed your plants? We have a wide range of plant feeds and fertilisers in our centre, and our friendly staff are always happy to help.</p>

How to feed your houseplants

<p><strong>Planting a hanging basket</strong> is a quick and easy way to add instant colour to patios, balconies and any other outdoor space that needs brightening up. Many of the most popular plants for hanging baskets will flower for months on end, and they&rsquo;re effortless to care for. Here are five of our favourite plants for hanging baskets.</p>

<p><strong>Planting a hanging basket</strong> is a quick and easy way to add instant colour to patios, balconies and any other outdoor space that needs brightening up. Many of the most popular plants for hanging baskets will flower for months on end, and they&rsquo;re effortless to care for. Here are five of our favourite plants for hanging baskets.</p>

<h2>Top 5&nbsp; plants for hanging baskets</h2>

<p>Brighten up your outdoor space with colourful hanging baskets. At our garden centre in %locations%, we have several hanging pots, hanging baskets, and planters filled with summer-blooming plants. Please choose from our wide assortment and hang up a hanging basket at your front door, pergola, trellis or wall. It&#39;s fun to make hanging baskets yourself, too. We have all supplies you need. Find out which flowers are best for hanging baskets and visit our garden centre for the most colourful species.</p>

<h2>1. Trailing geraniums</h2>

<p>Trailing geraniums look fabulous in hanging baskets, with stems bearing clusters of flowers in vivid colours. As well as the ever-popular red geraniums, there are also gorgeous pink, white and even bicolour varieties. Trailing geraniums like a sunny position, and they&rsquo;re reasonably drought resistant, so they will cope if you forget to water them for a few days.&nbsp; Deadhead any faded flowers, and feed them fortnightly with a high&ndash;potash feed (tomato feed is ideal). Geraniums will flower from early summer until the first frosts.</p>

<h2>2. Trailing petunias</h2>

<p>Petunias are the classic choice for hanging baskets. They come in an amazing array of colours, with single or double flowers. New varieties like the Surfinia range of petunias have been bred to stand up well to wet weather, and others, like the Thumbelina range, are deliciously fragrant.&nbsp; Petunias prefer a sunny position, with regular watering and a fortnightly feed with a high potash liquid feed. Deadhead faded flowers regularly to keep them flowering through summer until the first frosts.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Fuchsias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If you have a shady spot that needs a bit of colour, a hanging basket planted with fuchsias is the answer. With their exotic-looking, colourful flowers on gracefully arching stems, trailing fuchsias spill elegantly over the edge of a hanging basket, adding a touch of glamour wherever they are. They grow in sun or light shade, flowering right through summer and early autumn. Water regularly and feed fortnightly with a high potash feed to keep the flowers coming.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Begonias</h2>

<p>Begonias are a fabulous splash of colour in hanging baskets, with big, blowsy blooms in a range of colours from soft pink and cream to vivid scarlet and orange. Dark-leaved begonias add extra interest, their striking foliage making the perfect foil for the colourful flowers. Begonias are happy in light shade and can also be grown in the sun. Water them regularly, feed fortnightly, and deadhead faded blooms.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Filler plants</h2>

<p>Every hanging basket needs a few filler plants to act as a backdrop for the beautiful flowers and creating a cloud effect.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is one of the best, with trailing stems and rounded lime-green trailing leaves that add texture and softness to planting.&nbsp;This attractive foliage plant grows well in the sun or light shade.</li>
	<li>Bacopa is another useful filler plant, with thin stems covered in masses of tiny blue or white flowers. It does best in full sun, with regular watering.</li>
	<li>Try Cordyline or Helichrysum for lovely rounded foliage and hide the bare stems of other plants.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>If your patio needs a boost this summer, visit our centre, where you&rsquo;ll find a fantastic range of plants, hanging baskets and containers to add instant colour to any outdoor space.</p>

Top 5 plants for hanging baskets

<p>Water is one of our most precious resources, and as summers get hotter and drier, we need to <strong>use water wisely in our gardens</strong>. These simple tips will help you give your plants the water they need with as little waste as possible.</p>

<p>Water is one of our most precious resources, and as summers get hotter and drier, we need to <strong>use water wisely in our gardens</strong>. These simple tips will help you give your plants the water they need with as little waste as possible.</p>

<h2>Save water by improving your soil</h2>

<p>One of the best ways to use water effectively in the garden is to improve your soil by adding organic material, like well-rotted farmyard manure, leaf mould or compost. This improves the soil structure, helping light soils hold on to moisture to need less watering. It also helps heavy clay soils to drain better.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<p>Mulching soil helps to stop moisture from evaporating. It&rsquo;s best to do this in spring when the soil is still damp from the winter rains. Compost and bark chippings make good mulches. Apply a thick layer of mulch, at least 5cm (2in).&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to water effectively</h2>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Water in the early morning or the evening, so the water doesn&rsquo;t evaporate in the heat of the sun before it has a chance to reach the plants&rsquo; roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give newly planted shrubs and trees a good soak every few days. This encourages the roots to grow deep into the soil, making the plants more resilient in times of drought. Avoid watering little and often, as this tends just to wet the soil&#39;s surface, encouraging plant roots to stay shallow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Drip irrigation systems are more efficient at watering than sprinklers, getting water directly to the plants&rsquo; roots.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>A tip when growing thirsty vegetables like courgettes is to create a reservoir next to each plant. Cut a plastic bottle in half, remove the cap and bury the top half of the bottle upside down next to the plant. When watering, fill the bottle, and the water will soak out into the soil right next to the plants&rsquo; roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add water-retaining gel to potting compost in hanging baskets and containers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Install a rainwater butt connected to a downpipe to collect the rainwater that runs off your roof, and use this to water your plants.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Drought-tolerant plants</h2>

<p>Drought-tolerant plants have evolved structures that help them survive periods without water, so planting a few of these in your garden means less time spent watering.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Plants like thyme and rosemary have small leaves to reduce the amount of water lost through the leaf surface. Stachys byzantina (lambs ears) has leaves covered in tiny hairs, which also reduces water loss. Succulents like sempervivums and sedums have fleshy leaves that can store water for use in dry seasons.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These drought-resistant plants will look good in any garden:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Perovskia (Russian sage)</li>
	<li>Lavender</li>
	<li>Hardy geraniums (cranesbills)</li>
	<li>Nepeta (catmint)</li>
	<li>Cistus (rockrose)</li>
	<li>Eryngium (sea holly)</li>
	<li>Verbascum (mullein)</li>
	<li>Sedum/Hylotelephium (stonecrop)</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to add some drought-tolerant plants to your garden, visit our centre to see our extensive range. We have plants to suit every garden!</p>

How to use water wisely in the garden

<p><strong>June</strong> is such a busy month in the <strong>kitchen garden</strong> from keeping on top of weeds to watering, planting out and harvesting plus even more sowing - it&rsquo;s not too late!</p>

<p><strong>June</strong> is such a busy month in the <strong>kitchen garden</strong> from keeping on top of weeds to watering, planting out and harvesting plus even more sowing - it&rsquo;s not too late! Then there is always the weather to contend with! Will it be too dry, or will there be rain? These are the questions gardeners all over the country ask themselves daily. Most likely, June will be sunny and the longest day of the year will be here before you know it. So that means one thing! It&rsquo;s time to make sure your plants are ready to grow.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Aubergines, tomatoes and cucumbers</h2>

<p>If you are growing aubergines, tomatoes and cucumbers outside, make sure they&nbsp;are in a sunny but sheltered spot with supports ready for them to climb. Keep them well-watered and remember to feed them as well for more harvests in just a few weeks.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Lettuce, kohlrabi and beetroot&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Have you sown lettuce, kohlrabi and cucumbers undercover? If you&#39;ve started them off in a greenhouse, make sure you are hardening them off and planting them out soon to give them plenty of time to grow ready for you. It&#39;s almost time to harvest them and create a fresh salad with homegrown food like these. Nothing beats a homegrown salad.</p>

<h2>4. Corn, squash and beans&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Try the &#39;three sisters planting method&#39; and grow all three of these in one space. It&rsquo;s a great space saver and each supports the other. Beans fix nitrates in the soil as it uses the corn to grow up. Squash is planted around the outside and together not only do they look great but they can all be grown together in a small space for abundant harvests.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Marigolds and nasturtiums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If you haven&rsquo;t already planted out some edible flowers, there is no time like the present. Both Marigolds and Nasturtiums are great companion plants deterring pests, but they are also edible! Add some brightly coloured flowers to your salads straight from your kitchen garden. These varieties are ready to harvest when their colour is bright enough.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>6. Turnips and swede</h2>

<p>Both turnips and swede can be planted out if you have already grown undercover or they can be sown directly into the soil where they are to grow. Both, when harvested at just the right time can be delicious and great to cook with. Don&rsquo;t miss out on these species and sow those seeds as soon as you can. You can still buy lots of seeds at our garden centre in %locations%</p>

<h2>7. Radish, spinach and pak choi&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Supercharge your salads with these three that can all still be sown right now so there is no need to miss out! Keep successionally sowing for more crops. Most people don&#39;t think of pak choi in their dishes because of its bitter taste. Try the Asian way by marinating your pak choi, spinach and radish in soy sauce and top it off with sesame seeds. You will be amazed by the delicious taste. Variating with food makes any hearts beat faster.</p>

<h2>8. Annual bedding&nbsp;</h2>

<p>You might not think of annual bedding as something to grow in a kitchen garden but, it really is! Add some colour, textures and a little something different with some bedding plants in and around your vegetables.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Check us out in store for vegetables, fruit and bedding to grow in your kitchen garden.</p>

What to plant in the kitchen garden in June

<p>Left to their own devices, <strong>shrubs and climbers</strong> can get out of hand, growing too big and looking untidy. <strong>Pruning</strong> keeps them looking neat and flowering well, so it&rsquo;s well worth doing.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Left to their own devices, <strong>shrubs and climbers</strong> can get out of hand, growing too big and looking untidy. <strong>Pruning</strong> keeps them looking neat and flowering well, so it&rsquo;s well worth doing.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Golden rules of pruning</h2>

<p>When you&rsquo;re pruning, there are a few golden rules to remember:&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Always cut just above a bud.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>When pruning to shape a plant, work slowly and take regular breaks to check that you are not taking off too much.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Take care when working at height, and don&rsquo;t be afraid to call in a professional if the job is too big for you to tackle safely.</li>
</ul>

<p>Pruning shrubs and climbers isn&rsquo;t complicated, and there&rsquo;s plenty of information available on how and when to prune. To get you started, here are a few tips on pruning common shrubs and climbers.</p>

<h2>1. Pruning hydrangeas</h2>

<p>To prune mophead hydrangeas, leave the flowers on the plant over winter to protect the developing buds and remove them in spring, cutting back to just above a strong pair of buds lower down on the stem. Cut out any thin, weak stems and remove one or two old stems to promote new growth.</p>

<p>Prune Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens in early spring, cutting back last year&rsquo;s shoots to between 30-60cm (1-2ft) above the ground, just above a pair of strong buds.</p>

<h2>2. Pruning fuchsia and buddleja</h2>

<p>Prune in mid to late spring, cutting back last year&rsquo;s growth to within 1-2 buds of the main woody branches. Remove any weak or spindly stems.</p>

<h2>3. Pruning forsythia</h2>

<p>For a good display of flowers, prune forsythia next spring as soon as the flowers have faded. Cut all stems back by a quarter of their length to shape the plant, and remove any damaged or crossing branches. On established plants, every two years, cut back one in every four old stems to the base to reduce congestion.</p>

<h2>4. Pruning honeysuckle</h2>

<p>Most honeysuckles flower in late summer, but some, e.g. Dutch honeysuckle, flower in late spring and early summer.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Prune early flowering honeysuckles straight after flowering, cutting back the flowered shoots by one-third.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Prune late-flowering honeysuckles in spring, cutting back any long trailing stems and lightly trimming the rest of the plant.</li>
</ul>

<h2>5. Pruning clematis</h2>

<p>Clematis are divided into 3 groups, defined by their flowering time:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Group 1 flowers in winter or early spring. Prune as soon as they finish flowering, removing deadwood and cutting back flowered stems to fit the space available.</li>
	<li>Group 2 flowers in late spring, with sometimes a second flush in late summer. Prune in spring before they start to grow, cutting back to a pair of healthy buds.</li>
	<li>Group 3 flowers in late summer. Prune in early spring, cutting back to a pair of strong buds about 20cm above ground level.</li>
</ul>

<p>Need to tackle an overgrown plant in your garden? We&rsquo;ve got all the tools and equipment you need, so visit our centre today!</p>

Pruning climbers and shrubs

<p>There is <strong>eco-friendly pest control</strong> available for just about every pest the amateur gardener will find in the garden, so there is usually something that will help you to protect your plants. Generally speaking, the aim of pest control is to prevent pests rather than completely eradicate them, since each and everyone does have a purpose in the garden - even if you would prefer that purpose not to be eating your brassicas!&nbsp;</p>

<p>There is <strong>eco-friendly pest control</strong> available for just about every pest the amateur gardener will find in the garden, so there is usually something that will help you to protect your plants. Generally speaking, the aim of pest control is to prevent pests rather than completely eradicate them, since each and everyone does have a purpose in the garden - even if you would prefer that purpose not to be eating your brassicas!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>The best eco-friendly pest control&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Without a doubt, the best way is to allow nature to take control of pests for you. By creating a biodiverse garden full of plants for pollinators, trees and shrubs making homes and food for wildlife, a pond for amphibians, a wild area and in general a lovely space for all to enjoy - you will find that pests will be eaten by predators and you won&rsquo;t need to do much about it! Win-win for you and the environment. The best natural eco-friendly pest control is done by your wildlife, such as birds and ladybugs. Welcome them to your garden by hanging birdhouses and bird tables.</p>

<h2>Companion planting is&nbsp;an eco-friendly pest control</h2>

<p>When you plant a different combination of species closely together you will find that one helps the other! Some will attract predatory insects, others will steer away from the pests you don&rsquo;t want eating your cabbages. Some plants have fragrances that pests don&rsquo;t like. Nasturtiums for example can be a breeding ground for the cabbage white butterfly, meaning they will stay off your sprouts! Did you know that herbs also make a natural eco-friendly pest control?&nbsp;Herbs are what many consider to be &ldquo;companion plants&rdquo; for use in vegetable gardens and throughout the garden. Their purpose is two-fold: attract beneficial insects and deter pests. Try planting these herbs in your garden:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Mint,</li>
	<li>Basil,</li>
	<li>Lavender,</li>
	<li>Rosemary and other herbs.</li>
</ul>

<p>These herbs work really well as natural pest control. Planting these in your garden will not only help keep pests away but these herbs can be used to control pests indoors as well.</p>

<h2>Eco-friendly pest control with deterrents</h2>

<p>Remember: the key is that you are not trying to kill all pests, but just deter them. So, use things like:</p>

<ul>
	<li>copper tape around pots that snails don&rsquo;t like,</li>
	<li>cabbage collars for root fly,</li>
	<li>carrot root fly meshes to keep them off your carrots.</li>
	<li>scarecrows, bottles on canes, shining CD&rsquo;s blowing in the wind can all deter birds away from your crops.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Get up close for eco-friendly pest control&nbsp;</h2>

<p>One way to control pests is to pick them off yourself! Pick caterpillars, slugs and snails along with others&nbsp;and re-locate them somewhere far away from your plants! If all else fails, a splash of water can get rid of aphids, netting can keep birds off and think about the plants you will grow - such as no Lilies if you suffer badly from red lily beetle - can work well. There are so many beautiful plants to grow, being without the ones that tend to get destroyed won&rsquo;t be too much of a loss.&nbsp;</p>

<p>There are other eco-friendly ways of pest control such as using essential oils and some of the newer products on the market which are made solely for deterring certain pests. There are many options so there is no need to despair.&nbsp;</p>

<p>In store, we have a range of products to help along with plants for companion planting. Do you want to know more about eco-friendly pest control?&nbsp;Visit to find out more.&nbsp;</p>

Eco-friendly pest control

<p>It is time to decide on <strong>Father&#39;s Day Gifts</strong> to treat the special man in your life. Treat your Dad with a special gift to show him how much you care.</p>

<p>It is time to decide on <strong>Father&#39;s Day Gifts</strong> to treat the special man in your life. Treat your Dad with a special gift to show him how much you care.</p>

<h2>1. For the Dad who likes the outdoors&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If your Dad is into adventures from camping to hiking, he&rsquo;ll no doubt be thankful for a cool box, rambler mug or cool bag. For those long days out in the wilds, he can stay refreshed and ready to keep hydrated. Keep his water cool with a new insulated mug or bag, so you know he is always being looked after when enjoying participating in sports.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. For the Dad who likes his meals hot</h2>

<p>If your Dad likes to add heat to every meal he makes or is served, how about a pack of spices? This can be a great gift for the Dad who likes it hot! From cumin to cayenne pepper, paprika to chilli powder - a pack of spices is a lovely gift for the man who loves spice. Buy them individually or pre-wrapped in a gift pack. And what about Dad&#39;s that like to spice it up on the barbecue? Find yourself the perfect barbecue accessories in our garden centre. We offer all kinds of accessories, such as a pizza stone,&nbsp;BBQ pan, grilling basket,&nbsp;BBQ gloves, grilling stone, rotisserie, grill rack, skewer set. We bet your Dad definitely likes the idea of him lighting the barbecue more often.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. For the Dad who likes to relax</h2>

<p>If your Dad loves to sit in the garden with his feet up after a day of mowing the lawn, why not pick the perfect fragrant perennial to plant in a pot right by where he sits? He can admire the flowers and the fragrance, knowing you choose the plant just for him. Roses, Jasmine, Honeysuckle - there are many to choose from. Match your garden plant with an extraordinary plant pot, container or planter. If your dad doesn&#39;t have a green thumb, you can also give him a book to relax in the garden.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. For the gardening Dad</h2>

<p>With so many gardening gifts available, the options are endless! From hand tools to seed trays, plants, pots, and ready planted hanging baskets, you really can take your pick, but why not look for a plant that brings back a happy memory? A plant in your bridal bouquet or that was blooming during the time of year that you were born.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. For the Dad who loves to read</h2>

<p>There is nothing better than a good book on a sunny day relaxing in the garden. If your Dad loves to read, find an excellent book that he can get stuck into. Autobiography of his favourite sporting legend, perhaps his celebrity crush or his favourite gardener.&nbsp;</p>

<p>No matter what you decide to give to your Dad for Fathers Day, he will know you love him, and nothing compares to spending time with him, so make sure you grab a few hours to spoil him.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For tools, plants, and so much more, we have just what your Dad will love for Fathers Day in store.&nbsp;</p>

Top 5 ideas for Fathers Day Gifts

<p>With big glossy green leaves, <strong>avocado</strong> trees make surprisingly good <strong>houseplants</strong>, and they&rsquo;re easy to grow from an avocado stone. Why not pick up a fresh avocado from the supermarket and give it a go?&nbsp;</p>

<p>With big glossy green leaves, <strong>avocado</strong> trees make surprisingly good <strong>houseplants</strong>, and they&rsquo;re easy to grow from an avocado stone. Why not pick up a fresh avocado from the supermarket and give it a go?&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Where to grow avocados</h2>

<p>Native to South America, avocados like a warm environment with fairly high humidity. In our temperate climate, they do best as houseplants, but they can be planted outside in mild areas and may even produce occasional fruits.</p>

<h2>How to grow an avocado from a stone</h2>

<p>Growing an avocado plant from a stone (the large pip inside the avocado fruit) is fun and makes a great gardening project for children. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done:</p>

<ol>
	<li>Cut a shop-bought avocado in half and remove the stone.</li>
	<li>Push a ring of toothpicks around the middle of the stone to make supports so that you can suspend it over a glass of water with the dimpled end of the stone in the water.</li>
	<li>Place the glass on a sunny windowsill where it will be at a reasonably constant temperature of between 20-25&deg;C (68-77&deg;F).</li>
	<li>Keep the water level topped up.</li>
	<li>The stone should start to produce roots in between 2-6 weeks.</li>
	<li>Once the stone has produced a stem and leaves, take it out of the glass, remove the toothpicks and plant the seedling in a small pot filled with multipurpose compost, with some sharp sand mixed in to improve drainage.</li>
</ol>

<p>You can also plant an avocado stone in a pot filled with multipurpose compost. Place the pot somewhere warm and dark for a couple of weeks, watering regularly to stop the compost from drying out. When shoots appear, move the pot to a bright, sunny windowsill.</p>

<p>Once your avocado seedling reaches 30cm (12in) high, cut it down to 15cm (6in). This will produce a bushy plant with lots of foliage, ideal for an indoor plant.&nbsp;</p>

<p>When roots start showing through the pot&#39;s drainage holes, transplant your seedling into a bigger pot. Use a loam-based compost such as John Innes no 3, with added sharp sand for drainage.</p>

<h2>Caring for an avocado houseplant</h2>

<p>To keep your avocado plant looking good, place it in a warm, sunny spot, with a minimum winter temperature of between 13-18&deg;C (55-65&deg;F)&mdash;water when the compost feels dry to the touch. In spring and summer, feed every 2-3 weeks with a balanced liquid feed. Repot in spring if roots are starting to grow through the drainage holes of the pot.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<p>Don&rsquo;t expect to be picking your own avocados any time soon &ndash; avocado trees grown from seed take ten years to bear fruit. When grown as houseplants, they rarely flower, but if yours does, move it outside so that bees can pollinate the flowers. Avocado trees typically last between 2-3 years as houseplants.</p>

<p>Looking for more houseplants with fantastic foliage or flowers? Visit our centre and choose your perfect plant from our exciting range.</p>

How to grow an avocado as a houseplant

<p>These <strong>lawn tips for June</strong> will help you to keep your lawn in great shape for the summer ahead. As the months warm up and you spend more time outside in the garden, you might find the lawn being used much more. Perhaps BBQ&rsquo;s with family and friends, children playing ball games and dogs running around might make for a messy lawn, but there are ways and means to keep it looking great with these tips.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>lawn tips for June</strong> will help you to keep your lawn in great shape for the summer ahead. As the months warm up and you spend more time outside in the garden, you might find the lawn being used much more. Perhaps BBQ&rsquo;s with family and friends, children playing ball games and dogs running around might make for a messy lawn, but there are ways and means to keep it looking great with these tips.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Keep on top of mowing</h2>

<p>With warmer weather and heading into summer, you will see your lawn growing really fast during June. If you&rsquo;d like a nice neat lawn, keep on top of it with a weekly mow. Don&rsquo;t forget to leave some areas for the grass to grow. You never know what will pop up, and your garden wildlife will be thankful.</p>

<h2>2. Clean your tools</h2>

<p>Before you get started, make sure your mower blades are sharp and clean. Check over any tools you will use to make sure they are in good condition and ensure any electrical cables are intact and safe.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Feed your lawn&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Using an organic lawn fertiliser to provide all of the nutrients needed to keep it growing lush and green is important now. Some will be applied just during spring and then autumn, but others, especially liquid feed, can be used monthly as you water.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Watering&nbsp;</h2>

<p>With warmer and dryer weather, the lawn will need to be watered. Rainwater is, of course, best and early morning or early evening is much better than during the day. Daytime watering, especially in the heat, means it will evaporate much quicker. Try to water at the base of your plants so the water can be absorbed directly into the roots rather than sitting on the foliage.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Aeration&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Use a rolling aerator or wear some aerator sandals to allow your lawn to breathe. Generally, the whole lawn will benefit but focus on the areas most used. You can also sprinkle some grass seed and fertiliser to any badly worn down areas after you have aerated, and then don&rsquo;t forget to water afterwards.</p>

<h2>6. Pests and diseases&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Keep a check on your lawn as much as you possibly can so you can spot any pests and diseases that might occur. By spotting issues early on means, you can take action to halt their spread when possible. Moulds, rust and fairy rings, plus many others, can be seen if the weather conditions are right for them to thrive. If you spot any changes, find out what they are and the treatment needed to repair your lawn immediately.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Don&rsquo;t forget to take a walk barefoot on your lawn too!&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a range of lawn care products in store, come in and visit us.&nbsp;</p>

Lawn tips for June

<p>Anyone who&rsquo;s ever tried to grow a plant will have come up against the question of <strong>plant food and fertilizer</strong>. With so many different types of fertilizers available, how can you tell which one is best for your plants? We&rsquo;ve tried to answer some of the most common questions below.</p>

<p>Anyone who&rsquo;s ever tried to grow a plant will have come up against the question of <strong>plant food and fertilizer</strong>. With so many different types of fertilizers available, how can you tell which one is best for your plants? We&rsquo;ve tried to answer some of the most common questions below.</p>

<h2>Is plant food the same as fertilizer?</h2>

<p>Strictly speaking, plants make their own food, using the elements available in the atmosphere and the soil. Fertilizers are products that we add to the soil to increase nutrient levels. However, in gardening books, websites, and garden centres, you will see the terms &lsquo;plant food&rsquo; and &lsquo;fertilizers&rsquo; used to mean the same thing, and in this article, when we talk about &lsquo;plant food&rsquo; or &lsquo;plant feeds&rsquo;, we mean a fertilizer.</p>

<h2>What do fertilizers do?</h2>

<p>Fertilizers add nutrients to the soil that plants need for healthy growth. They don&rsquo;t do anything to improve the soil structure. However &ndash; for that, you need to add organic material such as compost, leaf mould or well-rotted farmyard manure.</p>

<h2>What&rsquo;s the difference between organic and inorganic fertilizers?</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Inorganic fertilizers are manufactured using chemicals. They are generally faster-acting than inorganic fertilizers.&nbsp;Growmore, Tomorite and Miracle-Gro are all examples of inorganic fertilizers.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Organic fertilizers are made from plant or animal material. Seaweed feed, bonemeal, and chicken manure pellets are all organic fertilizers. These are usually slower-acting than inorganic fertilizers because they take longer to break down in the soil.</li>
</ul>

<h2>What is an NPK ratio?</h2>

<p>Fertilizers contain three key elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These three elements are essential for healthy plant growth.&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) promotes green leafy growth.</li>
	<li>Phosphorus (chemical symbol P) is important for the development of roots and shoots.</li>
	<li>Potassium (chemical symbol K) promotes the development of flowers and fruit.</li>
</ul>

<p>Different plants need different amounts of these elements. Leafy vegetables like spinach may need a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to encourage good leaf growth. A high-potassium (usually called high-potash) feed will help plants such as roses and vegetables like tomatoes to produce more flowers and fruit.&nbsp;</p>

<p>The proportion of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in fertilizer is called the NPK ratio and is listed on the packaging of each fertilizer.&nbsp; A balanced fertilizer will have roughly the same percentage of each element. In contrast, a high-potash feed such as tomato feed will have a higher potassium percentage than the other two elements.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Top tip</strong>: Remember that plant roots can only take up nutrients that have been dissolved in water, so when checking NPK ratios on the packaging, look for the figure that shows the percentage of each element soluble in water.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Advice on applying fertilizers</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Always follow the manufacturer&rsquo;s instructions.</li>
	<li>Don&rsquo;t overfeed plants, as this can harm them.</li>
	<li>Water plants well before applying liquid feeds to avoid burning their roots.</li>
</ul>

<p>Do you need help to decide which fertilizer is best for your plants? Visit our centre, where our staff will be happy to help you.</p>

Explaining plant food and fertilizers

<p>You can <strong>improve soil drainage</strong> in many ways. Most plants will require well-drained soil, which means their roots absorb the water and nutrients, but they don&rsquo;t sit in heavy wet soil, contributing to rot, disease and pests. There are, however, soils that, even though they may not be well-drained, can still look beautiful as long as the right plants have been chosen for that soil. It&rsquo;s important to have good drainage in pots and containers as well, so here are our tips to help.&nbsp;</p>

<p>You can <strong>improve soil drainage</strong> in many ways. Most plants will require well-drained soil, which means their roots absorb the water and nutrients, but they don&rsquo;t sit in heavy wet soil, contributing to rot, disease and pests. There are, however, soils that, even though they may not be well-drained, can still look beautiful as long as the right plants have been chosen for that soil. It&rsquo;s important to have good drainage in pots and containers as well, so here are our tips to help.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Improve soil drainage in your garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Along with roots sitting in wet soil, compacted soil that doesn&rsquo;t drain well can also contribute to run off meaning water doesn&rsquo;t get absorbed at all. Plant roots can also be starved of oxygen if the soil is compacted. Sand is a good and cheap way to improve drainage. Incorporating it into your garden soil will help break it up and help aerate for healthier roots. Many hard soils have little organic matter, so adding in some well-rotted organic compost such as manure or garden compost helps break down clumps of soil and provides nutrients needed for your plants to grow. Soil conditioners can also help or try green manure and leaf mulch.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Improve your soil drainage in containers</h2>

<p>Ensuring your pots and containers have good drainage is important for your potted plants. They need a good loamy compost, full of nutrients that don&rsquo;t sit in water. Follow these steps to ensure your containers provide&nbsp;excellent soil drainage.&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Firstly, make sure the soil is a good quality potting compost.</li>
	<li>Make sure the pots have holes in the bottom for water to escape, and as an extra precaution, particularly in winter, put the pots up into pot feet, allowing for even better drainage.</li>
	<li>Each year, remove some of the compost from the top of the pot and replace it with new compost and top dress.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Improve soil drainage with mulch&nbsp;</h2>

<p>After you have improved the soil with amendments as suggested above, adding a layer of mulch is a great way to ensure the soil isn&rsquo;t bare and therefore at more risk of compaction plus, it helps keep down weeds. There are many types of mulch from well-rotted compost, farmyard manure, chicken manure, wood chip, straw and grass clippings. Leaves are another great way of mulching and clearing up after leaf fall.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Alternatives to improve your soil</h2>

<p>You could try the no-dig method of gardening, create a bog garden, or use the space for something entirely different. There is no need for the space to be wasted as there are options, and although it might take some work, it will be worth it. Don&rsquo;t forget to try not to walk on compacted soil as well.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a range of mulches and compost in store for your garden borders and containers.&nbsp;</p>

Improve soil drainage

<p>June is here, and that means long days and gardens filled with sunshine and flowers. Whether you&rsquo;re sowing, planting or harvesting, keep your garden looking its best with our <strong>top 15 garden tips for June</strong>.</p>

<p>June is here, and that means long days and gardens filled with sunshine and flowers. Whether you&rsquo;re sowing, planting or harvesting, keep your garden looking its best with our <strong>top 15 garden tips for June</strong>.</p>

<h2>Top 15 gardening tips for June</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Sow basil seeds in pots this month for a supply of leaves all through summer. Sow lettuce, radish and beetroot seeds in the vegetable garden.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow nasturtiums and Poached Eggplant (Limnathes douglasii) in flower beds and vegetable gardens to attract pollinators. Nasturtiums also make a good sacrificial crop, luring aphids away from other plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant out courgette, tomato, pepper and sweetcorn seedlings, as well as runner- and French beans. Don&rsquo;t forget to provide supports for your beans to climb up or grow dwarf varieties in pots if you&rsquo;re short on space.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Stake cordon tomatoes and pinch out side shoots. Feed tomato plants fortnightly with a high-potash feed once the flowers appear.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill pots and hanging baskets with geraniums, petunias, begonias and other bedding plants for long-lasting summer colour.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>First, early potatoes should be ready to harvest once the flowers have opened, but dig up one or two first and check whether they are big enough. If not, leave them for a few weeks to grow bigger.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest garlic and onions once their leaves turn yellow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Net strawberry plants to protect the ripening berries from birds.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune spring-flowering shrubs like Weigela, Forsythia, flowering currant (Ribes) and Philadelphus. Remove any dead, damaged or spindly growth, then cut back flowered shoots to vigorous side shoots. To rejuvenate congested plants, cut back one in every three or four old stems to ground level.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Clip evergreen hedges to keep them neat, but check first to be sure you aren&rsquo;t disturbing any nesting birds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead roses regularly and pick sweet peas to keep flowers coming all through summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep on top of the weeding. Run a Dutch hoe over beds on a dry day to cut down annual weeds and leave them on the ground to shrivel up.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Be water-wise. Water in the mornings or evenings to reduce water loss through evaporation, and install a water butt to collect rainwater.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Open greenhouse vents on hot days to stop the temperature from shooting up. It&rsquo;s a good idea to install shade blinds or add shade paint to greenhouses to protect plants in hot weather.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Mow lawns once a week to keep them neat. If you have space, consider leaving an area of lawn un-mown in summer to provide a habitat for insects and other wildlife.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>If your garden needs a boost this summer, why not visit our centre where you&rsquo;ll find a fantastic range of flowering plants, vegetable seedlings and everything else you need. Our friendly staff will be happy to help with all your gardening queries!</p>

15 garden tips for June

<p>If you want fresh flowers in your home all year round, <strong>flowering houseplants</strong> are the answer. Many flowers for months in summer, and there are even houseplants that flower in the middle of winter. Here are&nbsp;four of our favourite flowering houseplants:</p>

<p>If you want fresh flowers in your home all year round, <strong>flowering houseplants</strong> are the answer. Many flowers for months in summer, and there are even houseplants that flower in the middle of winter. Here are&nbsp;four of our favourite flowering houseplants:</p>

<h2>1. Cape primrose (Streptocarpus)&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The Cape primrose is a fantastic flowering houseplant, producing sprays of gorgeous flowers from late spring through to autumn, held on slender stems above rosettes of deep green veined leaves. Native to the Drakensberg mountains in South Africa, it grows in woodland conditions, so it needs protection from the hot midday sun. Place it on an east- or west-facing windowsill from spring to autumn, moving it to a brighter spot in winter.&nbsp;Water when the compost feels dry to the touch, and don&rsquo;t leave the pot sitting in water, as the roots could rot. Feed fortnightly from spring to autumn with a half-strength high potash food or a specialist Streptocarpus food.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. African violets (Streptocarpus)</h2>

<p>Previously called Saintpaulia, African violets are now considered part of the Streptocarpus genus. These compact plants are perfect for a windowsill, with velvety leaves and colourful flowers in spring and summer.&nbsp;Like Cape primroses, they will do well on an east- or west-facing windowsill in summer and should be moved to a south-facing position in winter to get more light. African violets don&rsquo;t like the cold or sudden changes in temperature. Keep them at between 18-24&deg;C (64-75&deg;F) during the day and above 16&deg;C (60&deg;F) at night, and protect them from draughts. Water when the compost is dry, using water at room temperature rather than cold water. Feed monthly in spring and summer with a half-strength liquid houseplant food.</p>

<h2>3. Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)</h2>

<p>The Peace Lily doesn&rsquo;t flower very often, but the blooms last a long time when it does. The elegant hooded white flowers, held on tall stems, look cool and stylish against large deep green leaves. Peace lilies like bright but indirect light and will also grow well in shady rooms. Water regularly and feed monthly with a liquid houseplant food.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera)</h2>

<p>In the middle of winter, the Christmas cactus is a splash of bright colour, with vibrant flowers appearing at the ends of its long, segmented leaf-like stems. Getting a Christmas cactus to come back into flower each year takes some effort, but the results are well worth it.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Start in winter, with a plant that is already in flower.</li>
	<li>In late January, once flowering has finished, place the plant somewhere cool (12-15&deg;C/54-59&deg;F) to encourage it to rest and water it very sparingly, just enough to keep the compost from drying out.</li>
	<li>In April, move it into a warmer position, water regularly and feed monthly with a liquid houseplant feed.</li>
	<li>In September, when the plant starts producing buds at the ends of its stems, move it back into a cooler spot again until the buds have formed.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>We have a sensational range of flowering houseplants in our centre, so visit us soon and fill your home with beautiful flowers!</p>

Top 4 beautiful flowering houseplants to grow

<p>These <strong>top 5 plants to grow in containers</strong> are perfect for small spaces such as a patio or balcony where there is less space but plenty of potentials. If you have a small space, use as much space as you can, including vertical growing to maximise the greenery! There are many varieties perfect for growing in pots to give you a productive and beautiful display. Here are our top 5 for your garden containers:&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>top 5 plants to grow in containers</strong> are perfect for small spaces such as a patio or balcony where there is less space but plenty of potentials. If you have a small space, use as much space as you can, including vertical growing to maximise the greenery! There are many varieties perfect for growing in pots to give you a productive and beautiful display. Here are our top 5 for your garden containers:&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Verbena bonariensis &lsquo;Lollipop&rsquo;&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Firstly, encouraging pollinators to your garden is a great way to bring it to life and also help to pollinate any crops you have growing. Even up high on a balcony, it is surprising what wildlife will find your plants. Verbena &lsquo;Lollipop&rsquo; is a lower growing verbena with vibrant, small lilac flowers on rough green stems magnet for bees. Attract bees and other insects to your garden by planting Verbena &#39;Lollipop&#39;.</p>

<h2>2. Blueberries&nbsp;</h2>

<p>As they require acidic soil to grow, they can easily grow in a pot rather than alter your neutral to alkaline soil. The little bell-shaped flowers are so pretty in springtime, and you will soon be harvesting ripe, tasty and nutritious fruits in the summertime. If birds visit your garden, a little netting may help the berries disappearing!</p>

<h2>3. Courgettes</h2>

<p>There is no reason why you can&rsquo;t grow your own vegetables in a small garden with containers. There are many! Courgettes are so prolific and very easy to grow. They germinate well, and with some early protection from climate and pests, they will soon grow and provide you with a healthy number of delicious vegetables to cook with. Courgettes will need:</p>

<ul>
	<li>a big pot,</li>
	<li>plenty of suns,</li>
	<li>lots of water,</li>
	<li>feed.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>4. Fuchsia</h2>

<p>The ballerina shaped flowers of the Fuchsia are available in many different colours&nbsp;and some fun names! Fuchsia &lsquo;Princess Charlotte&rsquo; has the most pretty pink flowers, and Fuchsia &lsquo;Sarah Eliza&rsquo; has flouncy pale pink and cream flowers that look much like a tutu! Fuchsias grow well in containers, and some of them are even edible! Fuchsias&nbsp;berries make an excellent jam.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Nasturtiums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Not only are Nasturtiums edible, pretty and great for deterring pests, but they are also easy to sow, germinate and care for. The fabulous foliage is both pretty and edible too, plus, they are great annuals for children to grow as well. The seed pods are edible, too and can be used instead of capers.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Nasturtium&nbsp;&lsquo;Orange Gleam&rsquo; is great for hanging baskets and is incredibly vibrant,</li>
	<li>Nasturtium&nbsp;&lsquo;Black Magic&rsquo; has deeply dark red flowers looking almost mystical,</li>
	<li>Nasturtium&nbsp;&lsquo;Alaska&rsquo; has variegated foliage.</li>
</ul>

<p>They&#39;re all perfect to grow in pots and containers to brighten up your garden, patio or balcony.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Find a range of containers, compost and seeds to grow in store.&nbsp;</p>

Top 5 plants to grow in containers

<p>Your <strong>garden&rsquo;s wildlife</strong> needs your help! With many insect and bird populations struggling, we need to do everything we can to support the creatures that share our gardens. Here are our <strong>top tips on creating a wildlife habitat in your back garden</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Your <strong>garden&rsquo;s wildlife</strong> needs your help! With many insect and bird populations struggling, we need to do everything we can to support the creatures that share our gardens. Here are our <strong>top tips on creating a wildlife habitat in your back garden</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Mow your lawn less frequently</h2>

<p>Studies show that reducing mowing to just once a month allows low-growing flowers like daisies, clover, self-heal and creeping buttercup to flourish, providing valuable support for bees and other pollinators.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Weed less</h2>

<p>Don&rsquo;t be too quick to pull up weeds.&nbsp; Dandelion flowers are one of the top early food sources for bees in spring, and the seeds provide food for small birds like goldfinches. Nettles provide food for the larvae of many of our best-loved butterflies, including Peacocks, Red Admirals and small Tortoiseshells.</p>

<h2>3. Make a log pile</h2>

<p>Leave a pile of old logs in your garden, and all sorts of creatures will make their home in it, from insects and centipedes to overwintering frogs and toads. A log pile will also attract small mammals and birds that prey on the residents of the pile, boosting your garden&rsquo;s biodiversity enormously. Use logs with the bark still on whenever possible, as many creatures make homes under the bark. Site your log pile somewhere semi-shady so that it stays cool and damp, allowing the wood to decay gradually.</p>

<h2>4.&nbsp;Make a pond</h2>

<p>Adding water to a garden is one of the best ways to support wildlife. Even a small pond will quickly provide a habitat for insects like pondskaters and diving beetles, and in larger ponds these might be followed by damselflies and even amphibians like frogs, newts and toads. You can make a small pond in a large bucket or basin, planted up with two or three aquatic plants and a few rocks to give wildlife a way of getting safely in and out. Put your pond where it will get some sun to warm the water and a little shade to keep the algae down.</p>

<h2>5. Plant for pollinators</h2>

<p>When choosing plants for your garden, try to have something in flower for most of the year. Crocuses are an excellent nectar source in early spring, and ivy and mahonia provide food for pollinators in autumn and winter. Avoid multi-petalled or double flowers if possible, as these are harder for pollinators to get into.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>6. Feed the birds</h2>

<p>Provide a habitat for birds by planting shrubs and trees to provide them with food and shelter. Ivy is a good choice, with berries for food in autumn and thick evergreen foliage for cover.&nbsp; Holly also makes a good habitat for birds, as do berry-bearing trees like hawthorn and rowan. And don&rsquo;t forget to keep bird feeders and birdbaths clean and topped up.</p>

<p>Whether it&rsquo;s wildlife-friendly plants or wildflower seeds, you&rsquo;ll find what you need in our centres, so visit us soon. Our friendly staff are always happy to help.</p>

6 ways to make your back garden a wildlife habitat

<p>We are on the cusp of summer so let&rsquo;s take a look at some of the best summer bedding plants. If you want to add some instant colour to your beds, hanging baskets, and containers, the following plants are an excellent choice!</p>

<p><img alt="Geraniums " height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Geraniums2.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>1. Geraniums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Geraniums are very popular summer bedding plants and come in a range of bright colours. A well looked after geranium will last for many years, at the end of the flowering season, before the first frost, you can lift your plants and bring them indoors for some TLC. If you are planting your geraniums outdoors, they like full sunshine and sandy, well-drained soil.</p>

<p><img alt="marigolds " height="365" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Marigolds.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 365px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>2. Marigolds&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Marigolds are a wonderful touch of bright sunshine in a garden.&nbsp; Marigolds flower from late spring until the first frost of the autumn. There are many different types, but all have flowers ranging from yellow, red-gold to copper/brass colours.&nbsp; The have a fragrance and can help keep blackfly off veg plants.&nbsp; Marigolds love the full sun, but they don&rsquo;t mind some shade. Water regularly in hot weather and if your marigolds are planted in containers.</p>

<p><img alt="begonias" height="386" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Non-Stop%20Begonias%20Cropped.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 386px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>3. Begonias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are over 2,000 species of begonias! Generally you will only find half a dozen on offer in garden centres. &nbsp;Wax begonias are the most common bedding plants, and these will happily grow in containers, hanging baskets, and beds. Look for a location with partial shade, as begonias don&rsquo;t like full sun and too much heat, although some are more tolerant of the sun than others. Trim back your begonias as they begin to yellow and die. The tubers can be stored in a dry place over winter once lifted from the soil. &nbsp;Non-stop begonias have beautiful large blooms and flower all summer and look great in containers and baskets.</p>

<p><img alt="petunias " height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Carpenters%20Nursery%20Petunias.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>4. Petunias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Petunias come in lots of different pastel shades and are an attractive addition to hanging baskets, containers, and window boxes as they grow up, out, and down. Plant petunias in a sunny location, as they like lots of sunlight, and full sun means your plants will produce more flowers. Feed and water petunias weekly, but if yours are planted in a hanging basket or container, they will need more water, especially during hot weather. Deadhead petunias as they grow, but make sure you remove the dead flowers at the base, so no seeds are left behind. Otherwise, the plant will stop producing flowers. Petunia flowers are thin and don&rsquo;t stand up well to lots of rain so they can look a bit sad if we have a prolonged wet period.</p>

<p><img alt="cosmos summer bedding plants" height="387" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Cosmos%20Resized.jpg" style="margin: 10px; width: 482px; height: 387px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>5. Cosmos&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Cosmos plants are really easy to grow and their lovely textural foliage adds an extra dimension to flower beds. They range from 60-100cm tall, taller varieties of cosmos are best planted at the back of flower beds and they may need staking to avoid collapsing in wet and windy weather. Use your summer cosmos as a screen to hide an unsightly fence or old shed. They also don&rsquo;t mind hot, dry weather.</p>

<p><img alt="antirrhinums" height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Antirrinhums.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>6. Antirrhinums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The popular name for Antirrhinums&nbsp;is snapdragons. These plants are easy to grow and suit a cottage garden vibe. Bees love them, so consider adding them to your plant choice. They will certainly brighten it up! Snapdragons like a sunny location and well-drained soil. To ensure your Antirrhinums&nbsp;keep on flowering all summer long, keep them well watered and feed weekly with a fertiliser rich in potash. Make sure you remove dead flowers regularly, too.</p>

<p><img alt="fuchsias " height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Fuscias.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>7. Fuchsias&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Fuchsias add a touch of vibrant colour to hanging baskets, and containers. Fuchsias like a sunny location, but they will still thrive in partial shade. Plant your fuchsias in early summer and they will produce blooms until the first frost. If you plant fuchsias in containers, use a loam-based compost or peat-free multi-purpose compost. Water your plants regularly until they are established. Thereafter, they won&rsquo;t need much water unless it&rsquo;s really hot. An occasional feed will perk up plants that are not growing as well as you hoped.</p>

<p><img alt="surfinias" height="322" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/shutterstock_101440072.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 322px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>8. Surfinias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Surfinias are a type of hanging petunias. They are ideal for hanging baskets and produce an array of small bell-shaped flowers. Surfinias are ideal if you have window boxes, balconies, and raised decks, as in full bloom they produce a trailing cascade of beautiful flowers. &nbsp;The can trail down a metre or more. They prefer a sunny location and rich soil. Use a light soil mix in hanging baskets. Be sure to remove dead and dying flowers regularly, as this promotes further blooms.&nbsp; The spread well and make quite a lot of root so don&rsquo;t plant too many in each basket or container.&nbsp; Usually 4 is enough for the average basket.</p>

<p><img alt="bacopa summer bedding plants" height="444" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Bacopa%20Cropped.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 444px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>9. Bacopa&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Trailing bacopa is a very attractive summer flowing plant, that is excellent for providing groundcover. It is happy in sunny locations or partial shade, and the low growing species of bacopa will cover walls and areas beneath taller plants quickly. Bacopa plants produce flowers in a range of shades, including; white, red, lavender, pink, and blue.&nbsp; White is generally the most popular and is a good addition to a hanging bracket with blue and pink.</p>

<p><img alt="lobelia summer bedding plants" height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Lobelia.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>10. Lobelia</h2>

<p>Lobelia is easy to grow and will produce pretty small flowers all summer. The most common colour is a vibrant violet-blue, but there are some varieties of lobelia that produce pink, red, and white flowers. Lobelia plants like full sun but will cope with partial shade, and also rich soil. Water them frequently in hot, dry weather.</p>

<p>We have a fine selection of bedding plants at <a href="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/">Carpenter&rsquo;s Nursery</a>, so come and take a look! If you need any advice on which plants will suit a particular location, ask one of the team. We are always happy to help.</p>

Top 10 Summer Bedding Plants

<p>Start <strong>fertilising your lawn</strong> to get that perfect lush green grass to step onto or to have a picnic, garden party or just because you want to admire it from the kitchen window. It is a very easy gardening job to do and one that will be most satisfying when you are proud of your green, healthy lawn. If you don&rsquo;t want to fertilise your lawn, we have some other ideas for you below as well.&nbsp;</p>

<p dir="ltr">Start <strong>fertilising your lawn</strong> to get that perfect lush green grass to step onto or to have a picnic, garden party or just because you want to admire it from the kitchen window. It is a very easy gardening job to do and one that will be most satisfying when you are proud of your green, healthy lawn. If you don&rsquo;t want to fertilise your lawn, we have some other ideas for you below as well.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>When to start fertilising your lawn&nbsp;</h2>

<p>It is a good idea to wait until your grass is growing well in late spring before you start to fertilise the lawn. Then again, fertilise your lawn just one or two more times throughout the year. It really shouldn&rsquo;t need much at all, but doing this at any other time of the year will mean both wasted product, and it could be detrimental to your lawn. So wait until the weather and soil temperature has warmed up and start fertilising.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Fertilising your lawn options&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many different choices for lawn fertilisers. We offer:</p>

<ul>
	<li>liquid feed,</li>
	<li>granules,</li>
	<li>sprays for smaller patches.</li>
</ul>

<p>It really is a decision for you to make. Some lawn fertilisers come with added lawn seed and moss killer all on one, which takes your lawn through a process of killing the moss to make way for the grass seed to grow and be fertilised. Have a good look at the options available to you so you can make the right choice for your garden.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Fertilising your lawn or other options&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If you aren&rsquo;t sure if you want to fertilise your lawn or even have a traditional well kept green lawn, there are other options for a thriving lawn. You could let your lawn run wild or at least part of it. Allowing the grass to grow and wildflowers to seed can bring a great deal of biodiversity to the garden. Taller grass will be home to many insects and feed larger garden wildlife. You could alternatively have a creeping thyme lawn or even a sensory chamomile lawn. Neither of which will need fertilising!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Fertilising your lawn tips&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Be careful not to use spring fertiliser in the autumn and vice versa. Specific lawn feeds are made up of different nutrition for your lawn and need to be applied at the right time of year. Ideally, don&rsquo;t pick up a cheap fertiliser that is too high in nitrogen as that won&rsquo;t keep your grass looking great long term. Make sure the fertiliser is a balanced mix of nutrients, and the application is easy for you to do.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a wide range of fertilisers, and if you would like to speak to someone in store about which to choose, please speak to one of our friendly team who will be able to advise you.&nbsp;</p>

Fertilising your lawn

<p>When you&rsquo;ve chopped up that fresh pineapple for dessert, don&rsquo;t throw away the top &ndash; you could use it to <strong>grow</strong> another <strong>pineapple plant</strong>! With their spiky rosettes of fleshy leaves, pineapple plants make dramatic-looking indoor plants, fitting in perfectly with the trend for growing succulents. And if you&rsquo;re lucky (and very patient), you might even be able to harvest your very own pineapple.</p>

<p>When you&rsquo;ve chopped up that fresh pineapple for dessert, don&rsquo;t throw away the top &ndash; you could use it to <strong>grow</strong> another <strong>pineapple plant</strong>! With their spiky rosettes of fleshy leaves, pineapple plants make dramatic-looking indoor plants, fitting in perfectly with the trend for growing succulents. And if you&rsquo;re lucky (and very patient), you might even be able to harvest your very own pineapple.</p>

<h2>Where do pineapples come from?</h2>

<p>Pineapples come from the tropical regions of South America, so they need warm conditions to grow well, ideally above 15&deg;C (59&deg;F) all year round. In our more temperate climate, they&rsquo;re best grown in conservatories or heated greenhouses.&nbsp;</p>

<p>To grow your own pineapple plant, all you need is a pineapple from the supermarket, a pot and some cactus potting mix. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done:</p>

<h1>How to grow a pineapple from a top</h1>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Choose a pineapple with a crown of fresh green leaves.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut off the top of the fruit about 2.5cm (1in) below the crown. Eat the rest of the pineapple!</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim away the flesh from the top and remove the lower leaves to expose a stem portion.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut the stem back to a point just below where the leaves have been removed. Leave it out for a few days to dry before planting it to reduce the risk of it rotting.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill a pot with a very free-draining potting mix, such as cactus potting compost. Push the stem of your pineapple crown into the compost and firm the compost around it. Using a mist spray, lightly moisten the compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cover the pot with a plastic bag to keep the compost from drying out. Check regularly and water just enough to keep the compost moist.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Your pineapple stem should take between 1-3 months to root. Once it has rooted, new leaves will start growing from the centre of the plant. At this stage, repot your pineapple plant into a larger container filled with cactus compost, or use multipurpose compost mixed with grit.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<h2>Caring for your pineapple plant</h2>

<p>Keep your plant somewhere warm, such as a conservatory, greenhouse or sunny windowsill. Water sparingly, just enough to keep the compost from drying out, and feed once a month with a balanced liquid feed.</p>

<p>Getting a pineapple to fruit takes time and lots of patience. Plants fruit once every three years (and sometimes longer), and they only produce one fruit per plant.&nbsp; To give your pineapple the best chance of fruiting, keep it at a constant temperature of around 20&deg;C (68&deg;F), and ensure it gets approximately 6 hours of daylight every day. You may need to invest in grow lights for the winter months.</p>

<p>Once your pineapple plant is growing, why not combine it with a few other succulents? Visit our centre to see our exciting range of cacti, succulents and other fascinating houseplants.</p>

How to grow a pineapple plant from a top

<p>Start <strong>sowing colourful annuals</strong> as soon as the weather warms up and the soil temperature is also a little warmer, but if you can&rsquo;t wait, some can be sown undercover. A few hardy annuals prefer to be sown directly in the soil where they are to grow. Either way, annuals make a great addition to any garden with so many varieties to choose from, an array of colours and many that are great for cutting to put into a vase. Here are some of our favourites to sow and grow, including a few sowing tips.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Start <strong>sowing colourful annuals</strong> as soon as the weather warms up and the soil temperature is also a little warmer, but if you can&rsquo;t wait, some can be sown undercover. A few hardy annuals prefer to be sown directly in the soil where they are to grow. Either way, annuals make a great addition to any garden with so many varieties to choose from, an array of colours and many that are great for cutting to put into a vase. Here are some of our favourites to sow and grow, including a few sowing tips.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Choose what you love before sowing colourful annuals</h2>

<p>Do a little research so you can decide which annuals to sow. There are so many! Think about colours and textures and when you would like them to flower, and if they can also be cut for a vase.</p>

<ul>
	<li>You could choose edible annuals such as Nasturtiums or annuals that pollinators love, like Cosmos.</li>
	<li>Don&rsquo;t forget Sunflowers - probably the most popular annual and easy to sow and grow.</li>
	<li>Nigella &lsquo;Love-in-a-mist&rsquo; is a popular annual with attractive seed heads.</li>
	<li>If you love bright colours, Zinnias are great to grow in a variety of colours, and Stocks will fill your whole garden with an intoxicating scent.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Sowing colourful annuals directly where they will grow&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Sowing directly in the soil where they will grow is often the easiest way to get growing. It is especially useful if you don&rsquo;t have a sunny windowsill or a greenhouse to get them started undercover. Many prefer to be sown direct anyway and will soon germinate and grow. Make sure your soil has been weeded, and any large lumps and stones have been removed. Rake it over and make shallow drills where they will grow. Sprinkle your seeds, bearing in mind they may need thinning out as they grow and then cover over lightly with soil and water. It is useful to label your rows or where you have sown, so any weeds that pop up can be easily identified.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Wildflowers are great for sowing colourful annuals&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Some wildflowers are biennial, some perennial and many are annual but will readily self-seed. Wildflower mixes will list everything in the mix on the packet. They not only fill spaces with so much colour and interest throughout the year but are also very easy to sow, grow and care for, plus incredibly good for garden wildlife. A miss of seed will soon grow and bring vibrancy and life to your garden. They are a great way to get various plants and flowers blooming in any size garden whilst attracting all of the beneficial insects you want.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For annual seeds and wildflower mixes, pick from our range in store.&nbsp;</p>

Sowing colourful annuals

<p>It&rsquo;s helpful to <strong>mulch your garden</strong> for many reasons. Mulch can do a great job of retaining moisture in the soil for your plants and even keeps weeds down as well. Using the right mulch will help improve your soil for healthy, thriving plants while reducing evaporation, which is especially good for dry soils, and maintaining a regular temperature. Cooling in the summer and keeping warm during the colder months.</p>

<p>It&rsquo;s helpful to <strong>mulch your garden</strong> for many reasons. Mulch can do a great job of retaining moisture in the soil for your plants and even keeps weeds down as well. Using the right mulch will help improve your soil for healthy, thriving plants while reducing evaporation, which is especially good for dry soils, and maintaining a regular temperature. Cooling in the summer and keeping warm during the colder months.</p>

<h2>How to mulch your garden</h2>

<p>Think of mulching as placing a doughnut around the base of your plants, shrubs and trees. Leave some space from the base to where the mulch starts. You can apply it directly to the soil&#39;s surface and leave it or dig it in a little at the top. Which action to take will depend on what type of mulch you use. If you are using a non-organic mulch, this is likely to be a one time job, but if you are feeding the soil with an organic mulch, ideally, this is done in the springtime, but autumn also works well.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Mulch your garden with the right material</h2>

<p>Mulch can be many different materials, from grass clippings to pebbles.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Organic mulch can be leaf mulch, well-rotted garden compost, animal manure, wood chip and anything made naturally.</li>
	<li>Non-organic mulches might be materials such as slate, gravel or even landscape fabric. Anything that performs as that insulation for your soil and plants.</li>
</ul>

<p>Choosing your mulch will depend on what look you want to achieve as well as how you would like to treat your soil. There are so many options from grey slate to white pebbles and plant-based mulches or garden composts that make the garden look really tidy very quickly.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use your own to mulch your garden</h2>

<p>You can purchase all of the different types of mulches, but you can also use your very own homemade mulch. It&rsquo;s very satisfying to replenish your garden with material made by you in your own garden! Grass clippings make a great mulch, as do pine needles if you want to help acidic loving plants. Collect and store fallen leaves in autumn and allow them to break down to make a great leaf mulch for your plants. Make space for building your own compost pile where you can throw your garden waste and allow it to break down and replenish your soil again when it is well rotted.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Visit us in store for a range of mulches suitable for your garden.&nbsp;</p>

Mulch your garden

<p><strong>Ornamental grasses</strong> add so much to a garden, bringing borders to life with their airy flower stems, softening paving and edging borders. There are grasses for sunny spots and grasses that will grow happily in part shade. Here are a few of our favourite ornamental grasses and how to care for them.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Ornamental grasses</strong> add so much to a garden, bringing borders to life with their airy flower stems, softening paving and edging borders. There are grasses for sunny spots and grasses that will grow happily in part shade. Here are a few of our favourite ornamental grasses and how to care for them.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<h2>8 great ornamental grasses to grow</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Miscanthus sinensis (Chinese silver grass)</strong> is an elegant deciduous grass with long arching leaves and tall silky purple-tinged flower spikes in late summer. Plant it in moist, well-drained fertile soil in full sun. It&rsquo;s best in large borders, as it forms big, spreading clumps.&nbsp; Leave the dry foliage and flower stems to stand over winter and cut them down in early spring before the new foliage appears.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Calamagrostis (feather reed grass)</strong> has a distinctive narrow upright shape. It&rsquo;s ideal for adding structure to borders and make a good screening plant in summer, growing in sun or partial shade. Leave the dry leaves and flower stems to stand in winter and cut down in early spring before the new foliage appears.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Pennisetum alopecuroides (fountain grass)</strong> is a wonderfully tactile deciduous grass, forming a mound of slender foliage and long stems with soft flower plumes that you can&#39;t help stroking. It&rsquo;s not fully hardy, so it is best grown in mild areas or given a thick mulch in autumn to protect it through winter. Cut back old foliage in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Deschampsia cespitosa (tufted hair grass)</strong> is an evergreen grass with sprays of delicate flowerheads that float like a cloud above arching foliage. This is an easy-care grass that will grow in the sun or part shade and often self-seeds. Cut the faded flowerheads back in late winter.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hakonechloa macra</strong> forms low mounds of foliage and looks great&nbsp;edging large borders, growing happily in part shade. Hakonechloa macra has deep green foliage, but there are also varieties with lime-green, golden green and variegated leaves.&nbsp;Cut back the old foliage and mulch in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Carex oshimensis</strong> (sedge) forms compact clumps of foliage, ideal for lining paths or using as part of an evergreen display in a container. It also makes an excellent ground cover, and there are varieties to suit full sun or part shade. Comb out the dead foliage in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Ophiopogon planiscapus &lsquo;Nigrescens&rsquo;</strong> <strong>(black mondo grass)</strong> is a compact, low-growing grass that looks great in contemporary gardens, striking black foliage softening,&nbsp;paving edges the occasional purple flower spikes adding a touch of colour. Plant it amongst lighter-coloured foliage to set off its dramatic colouring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Festuca glauca (blue fescue)</strong> is another colourful small grass that works well in a contemporary setting. Its steel-blue evergreen foliage also combines well with more traditional plants like lavender. For the best colour, plant it in full sun, and comb through with your hands in spring to remove old foliage.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Visit our centre today to see our exciting range of ornamental grasses and other plants. We&rsquo;re sure you&rsquo;ll find exactly what you&rsquo;re looking for!</p>

8 great ornamental grasses to grow

<p>This <strong>how to test your soil pH</strong> guide will give you all of the information you need to know your soil better. Without good soil and knowing exactly what type and PH it is, your plants may not thrive so well.</p>

<p>This <strong>how to test your soil pH</strong> guide will give you all of the information you need to know your soil better. Without good soil and knowing exactly what type and PH it is, your plants may not thrive so well. When you know more about your soil, you can choose the right plants for the right place and work with what you&rsquo;ve got to have a fully biodiverse and beautiful garden. Here&#39;s how you can test your garden soil to find out.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Get a testing kit</h2>

<p>Many different types of testing kits are straightforward to use. Plus, doing it is a bit like a fun school science experiment! Kits are different. There are some with a pH indicator from just inserting into the soil, and others have pH test strips which are fun to do but also really very accurate.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Collect some soil&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Collect a few samples of soil from different areas of your garden and keep each sample separate. Make sure the soil hasn&rsquo;t been given any recent fertilisers or mulches so you can be sure the soil hasn&rsquo;t been altered. It&rsquo;s surprising how readings can be different from various areas in a garden, so testing a few samples is helpful.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Use the testing kit&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The easy pH strip testing kits will have small tubes that you can put the soil samples into. Make sure you&rsquo;ve removed any debris and stones so it&#39;s just the soil that will be mixed with a testing solution. You can watch the colour change, which is really fascinating. Usually, green is alkaline and red is acidic with numerous shades in between, so check your results against the chart supplied with the testing kit.&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Green colour? That means your soil is alkaline.</li>
	<li>Red colour? This means that your soil is acidic.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>4. Choose your plants</h2>

<p>Now you know what soil acidity you have, you can start to look at plants that will thrive in those conditions. There are many beautiful plants for all conditions. It is possible to temporarily alter the soil acidity if you love a specific plant that isn&rsquo;t right for your soil, but this can be difficult and not long term so ideally, work with what you&rsquo;ve got or grow in pots.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Plants for acid or alkaline&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Plants that thrive in acidic soil are well known such&nbsp;as:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Azalea,</li>
	<li>Rhododendron,</li>
	<li>Blueberries.</li>
</ul>

<p>There are very many plants that prefer alkaline to neutral soil. Alkaline-lovers are:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Campanula,</li>
	<li>Geraniums,</li>
	<li>Lavender.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>Then there is only a small group left that loves a neutral soil pH:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Ferns,</li>
	<li>Asparagus.</li>
</ul>

<p>Usually, a pH of 6.5 is the perfect pH for most gardens, which most people will at least be close to. A large percentage of plants thrive between a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.</p>

<p>We have soil pH testing kits in store for you to use, and our friendly team can advise you on their use. Get to know your soil and plant plants that are exactly perfect for your soil pH.</p>

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