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<p>Try incorporating some grasses into your garden with one of these <strong>tall grass varieties</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>top 5 tall grass varieties</strong> will add height, texture, sound and beauty to your garden and will look great growing alone or as part of a bigger planting scheme. Grasses can grow in containers with the right care and thrive for many years. Some of the most beautiful garden schemes are planted with grasses, from prairie planting to formal borders. Grasses give interest most of the year, and some will even flower as well. Try incorporating some grasses into your garden with one of these tall varieties.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Five tall grass varieties</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Miscanthus sinensis (Silvergrass)&nbsp;</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>This grass has tall, upright stems and big fluffy flowers. It grows as a clump and can be split to make more plants. The good thing about Silvergrass is that there are actually many varieties to choose from, including some with stripes on the leaves, various colours and more flowers. It means there is one for every gardener. Silvergrass will need full sun and grow in most fertile soils up to about 1.8m tall.</p>

<ol start="2">
	<li><strong>Stipa gigantia (Giant oat grass)</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>This plant is named Giant oat grass because the flowers look like oat flower heads but giant! They grow above the mound of green foliage and rustle in the wind. Grow them in borders, but towards the back, as it can grow to 2.5m in height as long as it is planted in full sun.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="3">
	<li><strong>Cortaderia (Pampass Grass)</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>Probably the best known of all grasses, the Pampas grass was a must-have in the 70s and is still grown in large gardens today. It is a clump-forming evergreen with tall, silvery recognisable flowers. It has been used as a focal point or in borders and needs fertile soil and full sun. It will grow up to 2.5m tall. There are more compact varieties, such as Cortaderia pumila, which is more compact.</p>

<ol start="4">
	<li><strong>Carex (Sedge Grass)</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>This is an excellent grass for growing in pots and containers and borders because there are so many to choose from. Mostly evergreen, they are available in a variety of colours from green to bronze with variegated options as well. Plant Carex in fertile, moist soil and they will grow up to 1.2m tall depending on the variety and where it is planted.</p>

<ol start="5">
	<li><strong>Pennisetum (Fountain Grass)</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>With a whole mix of colours to choose from, Fountain grasses can have pink or purple, green or white flowers that look feathery and appear in summer to autumn from green foliage. They can look dramatic on a border or a large container. They tend to grow best in free draining soil that isn&rsquo;t too wet.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Find our selection of grasses in store when you visit us next.</p>

Top 5 tall grass varieties

<p>We&rsquo;ve listed six of our favourite drought-tolerant perennials, which prove that tough plants can still be beautiful!</p>

<p dir="ltr">With summers getting hotter and drier, we need to find ways of gardening more sustainably. That includes finding&nbsp;<strong>plants that can cope with dry conditions</strong>&nbsp;so that there&rsquo;s less need to spend precious water resources on watering the garden. We&rsquo;ve listed six of our favourite drought-tolerant perennials, which prove that tough plants can still be beautiful!</p>

<h2>Tips for making a drought-tolerant garden</h2>

<p dir="ltr">Choosing drought-tolerant plants is just one of the ways you can help your garden cope with dry weather. Here are our top tips for drought-tolerant gardening.</p>

<ul>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Mulch beds annually in autumn with a 5cm (2in) layer of compost, leaf mould or well-rotted farmyard manure. This improves soil structure and helps soils retain moisture, reducing the need to water in dry periods.</p>
	</li>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Water in the evening or early morning to reduce water loss through evaporation.</p>
	</li>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Avoid watering little and often, as this encourages plant roots to stay shallow and more prone to drying out in hot weather. Instead, a thorough soaking every two to three days encourages the roots to grow deep in search of water, making the plant more able to survive periods of drought.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2 dir="ltr">Drought-tolerant perennials</h2>

<p dir="ltr">Many of our familiar garden plants originally come from hot, dry climates and are well adapted to cope with drought conditions. Here are six of our favourites:</p>

<ol>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Stachys byzantina is also known as Lamb&rsquo;s ear because of its furry silver leaves. The woolly covering reduces evaporation from the leaf surface, and this sturdy perennial makes a beautiful groundcover plant for a hot, sunny spot.</p>
	</li>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Sedums (ice plants), now renamed as Hylotelephiums, have fleshy leaves that store water, allowing them to thrive in dry conditions. Their flowers appear in mid and late summer and are very popular with pollinators.</p>
	</li>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Eryngium (sea holly) is a unique-looking perennial with spiny leaves and thistle-like flowers surrounded by spiky bracts. It&rsquo;s fantastic for attracting bees, and the striking flowers also look great in dried flower arrangements.</p>
	</li>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Euphorbia (spurge) are very drought tolerant once established, and with their distinctive form and colourful flowerheads, they make a significant impact on a sunny border. They contain a milky sap which can irritate the skin, so always wear gloves when working with them and avoid getting the liquid on your skin.</p>
	</li>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Echinops (globe thistle) is an excellent choice for a pollinator-friendly garden, as bees love the spiky round blue flowers on their tall stems. With their unique form, the flowers are also ideal for cutting.</p>
	</li>
	<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
	<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Achillea (yarrow) is instantly recognisable, with its flattened flowerheads and feathery foliage. Achilleas are available in a wide range of stunning colours that look great on any sunny border, and these drought-tolerant perennials do best in well-drained soil.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p dir="ltr">Whatever your garden needs, you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre, so visit us soon to see what&rsquo;s in store!</p>

Drought-tolerants perennial plants

<p>If summer months make you think of colourful bedding plants and cheery sunflowers that enjoy full sun, you might bemoan the shady areas of your garden; but the good news is you don&rsquo;t have to miss out on the joy of the sunniest season. There are plenty of plants that grow in the shade which you can add to the darker corners of a garden to create a beautiful space you can be proud of &ndash; these five are a wonderful place to start if you want to bring colour and texture to your shadiest spots.</p>

<h2>Hostas</h2>

<p><img alt="blue mouse ears hosta " height="259" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/files/hostas-blue-mouse-ears-1278x1280-62f6209ef291f.jpg" style="width: 259px; height: 259px;" width="259" /></p>

<p>Well-known for their ability to thrive in shade, hostas have long been a summer favourite of gardeners. With varieties available from the small &lsquo;blue mouse ears&rsquo; to the enormous &lsquo;Empress Wu&rsquo;, these easy-to-grow perennials are ideal for gardens with limited sun. Hostas die right back in winter, making their late spring arrival a summer gift for your garden. Hostas are happy both in pots and planted directly into the ground.</p>

<h2>Impatiens</h2>

<p><img alt="impatiens busy lizzies " height="179" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/files/impatiens-busy-lizzy-1920x1331-62f6219815e8c.jpg" style="width: 259px; height: 179px;" width="259" /></p>

<p>With their colourful flowers and deep green leaves, impatiens (commonly known as Busy Lizzies) are great summer plants for shade, as they prefer shaded areas to full sun. A popular annual, impatiens will bring an uplifting burst of reds, whites, corals, and pinks to your garden and are a perfect addition to either planters or borders. Be aware they need daily watering to stay looking their best, so regularly check to ensure the soil around them doesn&rsquo;t dry out.</p>

<h2>Anemones</h2>

<p><img alt="anemone" height="197" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/files/anemone-1920x1280-62f622c634587.jpg" style="width: 295px; height: 197px;" width="295" /></p>

<p>Stunningly beautiful and available in a variety of shades, anemones are a gorgeous addition to a shaded area. With rounded petals and gorgeous dark central eyes, anemone &lsquo;de Caen&rsquo; is one of the best options for adding a pop of colour to any garden. Buy dormant bulbs and plant them in autumn for a display the following spring and summer or as plants ready to be placed in the ground in the spring for summer colour.</p>

<h2>Hardy Geraniums</h2>

<p><img alt="geraniums" height="221" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/files/geranium-1920x1440-62f6233f4118d.jpg" style="width: 295px; height: 221px;" width="295" /></p>

<p>Hardy geraniums are great summer plants for shady areas if you&rsquo;re looking for bright flowers to bring colour to your garden. From the vibrant purple-pink of &lsquo;Patricia&rsquo; to the candyfloss hue of &lsquo;Wargrave Pink&rsquo;, the delicate blooms of the hardy geranium are a classic and classy addition to any garden. Hardy geraniums prefer light each day, even if that is just a few hours each morning, so these are perfect for areas of partial shade.</p>

<h2>Astilbe</h2>

<p><img alt="astilbe" height="173" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/files/astilbe-1920x1280-62f623e2eb391.jpg" style="width: 259px; height: 173px;" width="259" /></p>

<p>Add texture to your garden with this interesting perennial that loves shade. These hardy plants grow best in boggy soil, so work well around a pond edge or in damp locations. Burgundy &lsquo;Fanal&rsquo; will bring a rich warmth to the darkest corners of your garden or add delicate &lsquo;Bumalda&rsquo; for a burst of pure, angelic white. As shade plants for summer, astilbes with their fluffy tufts of colour are a fabulous addition to any garden.</p>

<p>These are just a few examples of plants that can make your shady garden a summer sensation &ndash; let your imagination run wild and create a space to be proud of.</p>

Five Summer Plants for Shady Areas

<p>This <strong>beginner&rsquo;s guide to landscaping</strong> will help you to design and landscape your garden just as you want it.</p>

<p>This <strong>beginner&rsquo;s guide to landscaping</strong> will help you to design and landscape your garden just as you want it. The crucial parts of landscaping are knowing how you want to use your garden, what the aspect is, what is already there and what you would like to replace or add in. Let&rsquo;s take a closer look so you can get started on your dream garden.</p>

<h2>Know how you want to use the space</h2>

<p>Imagine your garden exactly as it would be if it was your dream space. Will it be entertaining, will your dog be playing ball, will it be a haven of peace and reflection where you have your morning coffee? When you know what you will be using it for, you can start to build up a picture of how you would like to proceed. Try to make a sketch or share your thought with&nbsp;a drafter to get an image of what&rsquo;s possible.</p>

<h2>Know&nbsp;the aspect</h2>

<p>Observing what areas in the garden are sun or shade is essential. You might look out the window and see the sun, but is there a shady corner also? Where does the sun shine throughout the day? Leave a piece of paper by your window, and every time you look outside, draw a line as to where the sun and shade are and the time of day. This will help when you start laying your lawn or buying your plants.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Draw a diagram of what you can already see&nbsp;</p>

<p>On a piece of paper, net down where there is a shed or greenhouse, anything permanent, electricity cables and any other services, drains and everything you can see. You can decide if you want to remove something and know where to avoid it if there are cables. The hard landscaping should always come first, so get all of that in place before you plant up.</p>

<h2>Know your soil and plants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>When you start to landscape with plants is when the garden really comes together. It&rsquo;s exciting, and you&rsquo;ll see your vision coming to life.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Firstly know your soil type and pH. You can test with soil test kits and by feeling the consistency of the soil. This will help you choose the right plants for the right place. If your soil needs replenishing, now is the time to do that with some soil improver or other organic matter.</li>
	<li>When your soil is ready, start planting. Visit our garden centre for plants for full sun, plants for shade, plants for acid soil and plants for neutral ground. Our staff&rsquo;s happy to help you out.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Maintenance is key to landscaping&nbsp;</h2>

<p>When you are landscaping, think about how you will access your garden, garden paths to sheds or around beds and how you will keep them clean. Will you be able to clean decking or reach tall plants? Do you love mowing the lawn, or is it too big? All of these will help you to enjoy your landscaped garden thoroughly.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We are happy to advise you in store, come in and visit us.</p>

A beginner's guide to landscaping

<p>Here is <strong>how to take care of roses throughout the summer</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>It is <strong>summer rose care</strong> time now we are in the middle of summer, and the weather has been very warm. We are often asked for rose care tips and advice, especially about how to keep some blooming, disease-free and thriving throughout the hotter months of the year. Roses are actually very easy to care for and can be grown in all-size gardens, in pots and containers and in cutting gardens. Perhaps the best-known flower in the world, both the variety of colours and fragrances means there is a rose to suit absolutely everyone. Here is how to take care of them throughout the summer.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Feeding schedule</h2>

<p>Roses do need to be well fed. They will thrive so much more with a regular feeding schedule at the right times throughout the year. Use a high in nitrogen feed after the winter cut back (February time) and then a high potash feed every two weeks throughout the growing season. It doesn&rsquo;t matter how old or young your roses are; feeding matters.</p>

<h2>Watering needs&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Roses do need watering, and they will thank you for it during hot weather. Heavy rain can leave the flowers looking a bit bedraggled but will help to keep the soil moist.</p>

<ul>
	<li>When you water roses, water directly on the soil.</li>
	<li>Water regularly and daily in warm weather if they are growing in containers.</li>
	<li>Make sure they aren&rsquo;t sitting in water, though, because that can cause root rot.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Maintenance work</h2>

<p>It&rsquo;s important to keep on top of deadheading your roses. You&rsquo;ll know when to deadhead as the petals will fall off or turn brown. Deadheading will allow the plant to put more energy into more buds blooming. If you have a rose that also has lovely rose hips, don&rsquo;t deadhead so much, or you&rsquo;ll lose the hips as well. You can very lightly prune out any dead, diseased or damaged material at any time to prevent pests and diseases but anything more than that should wait until the end of winter.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Summer rose care uses</h2>

<ul>
	<li>There are many uses for roses which can be used in homemade toiletries and cosmetics.</li>
	<li>They can even be used medicinally, so don&rsquo;t waste any petals that are still in good condition.</li>
	<li>Collect them, give them a rinse and use them for your well-being.</li>
	<li>Dried roses can be used as natural confetti, dried or fresh petals for a cup of fresh tea, and fresh petals in the bath for an indulgent soak after a day in the garden.</li>
	<li>You can bake with roses or make a face toner to spritz after a warm summer&#39;s day.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>For summer pruning and rose care, including feed, pots and advice, visit us in store.</p>

Summer rose care

<p>Mulching is a very easy process &ndash; just follow our guide.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Mulching</strong> is one of the best things you can do for your soil. Regular mulching improves soil structure, increases nutrient levels and reduces the need to water. Healthy soils are also more resilient to weather extremes, draining better in wet weather and retaining moisture in droughts. Healthy soil makes a beautiful garden, and mulching your soil is one of the best things you can do for it. Mulching is a very easy process &ndash; just follow our guide.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Types of mulch</h2>

<p>Mulches can be divided into two categories: biodegradable and non-biodegradable.</p>

<ol>
	<li>Biodegradable mulches will gradually break down and be incorporated into the soil by earthworms and other soil organisms, adding nutrients and helping to improve soil structure. Examples of biodegradable mulches are spent mushroom compost, well-rotted farmyard manure, bark chippings, garden compost and leafmould.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Non-biodegradable mulches include pebbles, gravel, slate and decorative mulches like seashells and tumbled glass. These won&rsquo;t break down in the soil, so they don&rsquo;t do anything to improve the structure, but they can help to suppress weeds and reduce water loss from the soil surface through evaporation.</li>
</ol>

<h2>What does mulch do?</h2>

<p>Mulch serves several different purposes:</p>

<ul>
	<li>It suppresses weeds by blocking out sunlight and preventing weed seeds from germinating.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Biodegradable mulches break down in the soil and improve soil structure, helping heavy soils to drain better and light soils to retain moisture. They also release nutrients into the ground.</li>
	<li>A layer of mulch also reduces water loss from the surface of the soil through evaporation. Combined with improved soil structure, this means less need for water.</li>
	<li>Well-mulched soil has a loose, crumbly texture, making removing perennial weeds like dandelions and docks easier.</li>
</ul>

<h2>When to mulch</h2>

<p>Mulching is usually done between autumn and spring. There are several benefits to doing it at this time of year:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Applying a biodegradable mulch in autumn allows time for it to start being incorporated into the soil over winter, ready for spring planting.</li>
	<li>In autumn and winter, the soil is likely to be damp, and mulching will help to keep this moisture in the soil in the event of a dry spring.</li>
	<li>Many perennials will have been cut back in autumn, so there is space to mulch around them.</li>
	<li>It&rsquo;s also a good idea to add a layer of mulch around new plants whenever you plant them.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to mulch</h2>

<p>Mulching involves spreading a thick layer (at least 5cm/2in) of mulch over the soil, keeping it away from woody trunks to avoid rotting. Mulch when the soil is moist, and don&rsquo;t mulch on frozen soil. Clear the ground of any weeds before mulching.</p>

<p>Woody mulches like bark chippings break down more slowly than compost and manure, and they use up some of the nitrogen in the soil in this process, so they are best used around established shrubs and trees. Farmyard manure and garden composts are ideal for mulching around perennials and vegetable beds.</p>

<p>We have a great range of soil improvers and decorative mulches in our centre, so visit us to find the one that&rsquo;s right for your garden. Our staff are always happy to help and advise!</p>

How and when to mulch your garden

<p>So what are vermiculite and perlite, how do they work and which one should you choose? Here&rsquo;s all you need to know.</p>

<p>If you&rsquo;ve ever looked up how to sow seeds, take cuttings or even re-pot a house plant, you&rsquo;ve probably come across references to <strong>vermiculite and perlite.</strong> These two handy substances are a boon to gardeners. They can make compost drain better and also retain moisture, even though that sounds like a contradiction. So what are vermiculite and perlite, how do they work, and which should you choose? Here&rsquo;s all you need to know.</p>

<h2>What is perlite?</h2>

<p>Perlite is a white granular material that is made by heating volcanic glass until it expands and &lsquo;pops&rsquo;, like popcorn. It is sterile, lightweight and has a neutral pH, so it&rsquo;s very easy to work with. When mixed with compost, it traps air pockets in the compost, which improves drainage. Perlite is often used in propagating cuttings, where free-draining compost is needed, or in sowing seeds. Because it is porous, perlite absorbs water and can be used to improve moisture retention in compost, but its primary use is to improve drainage.</p>

<h2>What is vermiculite?</h2>

<p>Vermiculite is produced by heating a naturally occurring mineral (magnesium aluminium iron silicate) so that it expands. Horticultural vermiculite looks like small golden-brown flakes. It can absorb up to four times its own weight in water and will also absorb some minerals that plants need, such as potassium, magnesium and calcium. Vermiculite is better for water retention than perlite and is ideal for potting up plants that need moist compost. It is sold as medium or fine grade &ndash; medium grade is better used in cuttings composts and fine grades in seed sowing.</p>

<p>NB: Don&rsquo;t get horticultural vermiculite (sold in garden centres) mixed up with the vermiculite insulation granules sold in hardware stores &ndash; they are not interchangeable!</p>

<h2>How to use perlite</h2>

<p>Perlite is most often mixed with composts to improve drainage. Here are a few of the most common uses:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>A 1:4 mix of perlite and compost makes a free-draining potting medium ideal for succulents.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Softwood and semi-ripe cuttings will root well in perlite. Part-fill, a plastic bag with moistened perlite, insert the cuttings and seal the bag. After several weeks, roots will start to form. Once the roots are well developed, the cuttings can be potted on.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>NB: Perlite is very dusty, so dampen it with water before using it to avoid inhaling the dust.</p>

<h2>How to use vermiculite</h2>

<p>Vermiculite is mainly used to improve moisture retention. Here are a few examples:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>A 50/50 mix of compost and vermiculite is perfect for houseplants that need a lot of water, such as maidenhair fern.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>30% medium-grade vermiculite added to compost makes a suitable medium for cuttings and potting on seedlings.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Scattering a light covering of vermiculite on compost after sowing seeds helps keep moisture in and reduces the risk of &lsquo;damping off&rsquo; when seedlings are attacked by a fungus that causes them to collapse.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>Vermiculite and perlite are just two of the many valuable products you&rsquo;ll find in our centre. Visit us today for all your gardening needs!</p>

Vermiculite or perlite: which to choose?

<p>Here&rsquo;s how and when to <strong>fertilise your lawn</strong>.</p>

<p>Walking on a well-kept lawn and feeling the cool grass underfoot is one of the joys of summer. Feeding your lawn helps to keep the grass growing strongly, out-competing weeds and moss, so there&rsquo;s less need for reseeding or replacing bare patches. Feeding can also help turf recover from hard wear. Here&rsquo;s how and when to <strong>fertilise your lawn</strong>.</p>

<h2>How to apply lawn fertiliser</h2>

<p>It&rsquo;s important to apply fertiliser evenly across the lawn to avoid uneven, patchy growth, and the simplest way to do this is to use a spreader. Handheld spreaders work well for small properties and lawns that are not rectangular. For big spaces and rectangular lawns, a mechanical spreader will scatter the seed efficiently and evenly. Follow the manufacturer&rsquo;s instructions on how much to apply, as applying too much can burn the grass. Most fertilisers need to be watered in, so aim to apply fertiliser just before a reasonable period of rain, or water it in yourself with a hose or sprinkler after applying.</p>

<h2>When to apply lawn fertiliser</h2>

<p>The first feed of the year should be applied in spring, once the soil temperature is around 12&deg;C (55&deg;F) and the grass has started to grow. Spring lawn feeds contain high nitrogen levels to boost leaf growth and give the grass a good green colour. Spring is also an excellent time to apply moss killer. If you need to use a weedkiller to control lawn weeds, wait until late spring, when the weeds will be growing strongly.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Around July, apply a quick-release summer lawn fertiliser. This gives your grass a boost and keeps it looking green. You don&rsquo;t need to scarify the lawn before fertilising in summer, but do water the feed afterwards if there&rsquo;s no expected rain.</p>

<p>In September or October, apply an autumn lawn fertiliser. Spring and summer lawn feeds contain extra nitrogen to promote lush growth, which isn&rsquo;t wanted in autumn, as soft new growth could be damaged by cold winter weather. Instead, autumn lawn feeds are high in potassium which makes the grass hardier and better able to withstand low temperatures.</p>

<h2>Fertilising your lawn in 4 steps</h2>

<p>For the best results, follow these four steps when feeding your lawn:</p>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Scarify the lawn</strong> by raking firmly over it with a spring tine rake or using a mechanical scarifier. This removes thatch (old dead grass) that can stop water and fertiliser from reaching the roots of the grass.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Aerate the soil</strong> using a hollow tine aerator or a garden fork to spike holes at regular intervals. This allows oxygen, water and fertiliser to reach the roots of the grass, promoting vigorous growth.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Cut the grass</strong> a couple of days before applying fertiliser.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Apply the feed</strong> using a spreader and water it if no rain is forecast.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>You&rsquo;ll find everything you need for your lawn in our centre, and our staff are always happy to help. Why not visit us today?</p>

How to fertilise your lawn in 4 steps

<p><img alt="miracle gro all-purpose continuous release plant food " height="720" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Miracle%20Gro%202.jpg" style="width: 720px; height: 720px;" width="720" /></p>

<p>Whether you are growing from seed or planting out established plants, you want to know they are going to flourish. Although a well-watered plant in the right level of sun for its type will grow, if you want a plant to thrive you must meet its needs. These tips will ensure you provide your garden with the nutrients it needs to bloom throughout the season (and even extending it in many cases!)</p>

<h2>Types of Feed</h2>

<p>The two main types of feed are organic (from plants or animals) and synthetic (manufactured). Traditional organic feeds such as bone meal and fish blood and bone have been used to encourage plant growth in Britain since the 1840s so have a long history of use in gardening. Synthetic feeds (sometimes called inorganic feeds) were developed in the early 20<sup>th</sup> Century, so although they are modern by comparison have still been widely used for over one hundred years. Examples such as sulphate of potash, Epsom salts and superphosphate are a popular choice with gardeners seeking high yields and vibrant growth.</p>

<h2>What to Feed and When</h2>

<p>For the best results, add nutrients to the soil at all points in the growing process. Prepping your soil before planting gives your plants the best chance of survival by creating optimum conditions. Fertilise your soil at the start of the growing season with a product such as Growmore to give your plants the best start.</p>

<p>As spring rolls around, it is time to add bone meal or superphosphate, both of which help roots develop. Which you opt for will depend on what you are growing &ndash; bone meal is excellent for trees, shrubs and hedges whereas superphosphate will give you a bumper crop of root vegetables such as potatoes and carrots. When adding young plants to your garden, dig the product into the planting hole to give your plants the best start.</p>

<p>During late spring and early summer, you may choose to use sulphate of ammonia. This nitrogen-rich product is great for encouraging growth in green, leafy plants. Superphosphate can also still be used at this point in the growing season to give plants a boost. Sprinkle products around established plants for the best results.</p>

<p>Later in the season and during the hot summer months you will be looking for the best way to encourage flowers and fruits to add colour to your garden. Sulphate of potash is ideal for this, encouraging large blooms to wow you and your guests.</p>

<p>As the growing season ends, fish, blood and bone can be forked into the soil to add the nutrients that were used up during the productive summer months. Preparing your soil this way will give your plants a head start come spring.</p>

<h2>Specialist Feeds</h2>

<p>If your garden is less productive than you&rsquo;d like, consider feeds for targeting problem areas. Alkaline soil responds well to garden lime whereas at the other end of the spectrum sulphate of iron maintains acidity for ericaceous plants such as azaleas or blueberry bushes. Epsom salts are also useful, adding magnesium to the soil which helps prevent yellowing of leaves from nutrient deficiency.</p>

<p>Feeding your soil is vital if you want the best from your garden, so visit our feeds page <a href="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/garden-supplies/feeds">here</a> on the Carpenter&rsquo;s Nursery website or pop to the nursery to get first-hand advice from our experts. Happy growing!</p>

Feeding Plants During the Growing Season

<p>Here are our top tips on balcony gardening and the best plants to choose from.</p>

<p><strong>Gardening on a balcony</strong> comes with unique challenges, but the results make it all worthwhile. A balcony filled with lush foliage and flowering plants is the perfect place to escape the busy world around you. Here are our top tips on balcony gardening and the best plants to choose from.</p>

<h2>Tips for gardening on a balcony</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Pots filled with wet compost can be heavy, so take care not to overload your balcony. Use plastic or fibreglass pots rather than terracotta, firmly secured so that they won&rsquo;t blow away. Mixing vermiculite with compost will make it lighter and also improves drainage.</li>
	<li>Use drip trays to stop your pots from dripping onto the balcony below when you water them.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Balconies are often exposed to sun and wind, meaning plants can dry out fast, so choose drought-tolerant plants and water them regularly. Putting up a windbreak such as bamboo matting will also help protect your plants from drying winds.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Five great planting ideas for balconies</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Herbs are a good choice for balcony gardens, as many are small enough to grow happily in pots. Lavender, thyme, rosemary and sage are all Mediterranean plants that can cope with drought and are ideal for sunny balconies. For shady balconies, try mint, chives and parsley.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberries grow well in pots on a sunny balcony, and their three-lobed leaves are attractive even after you&rsquo;ve eaten all the fruit! Once the fruit starts to ripen, you may need to protect the pots with chicken wire to stop birds from stealing all your strawberries before you can get to them.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Bedding plants flower for months and are very easy to care for. On sunny balconies, pots filled with tender geraniums (Pelargoniums) will give colour all summer and well into autumn. Begonias and busy lizzies (Impatiens) are great for shady spots. Replace your summer bedding with winter-flowering violas or cyclamens to give your pots colour through the colder months.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Hostas will do well on a shady balcony in pots, and their bold leaves will add a lush tropical feel to your planting. On a balcony, you&rsquo;re also less likely to have problems with slugs and snails eating your hostas, although these indefatigable creatures can climb surprisingly high, so keep an eye out for them!</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If your balcony is sturdy enough, you could even grow a small tree in a large pot. A small lollipop bay will give an evergreen structure as well as a handy supply of leaves for cooking. Bay trees like the sun but will cope with some shade and need protection from drying winds. Try a dwarf Japanese maple on a shady balcony such as Acer palmatum &lsquo;Wilson&rsquo;s Pink Dwarf&rsquo;.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>You&rsquo;ll find everything you need in our centre to turn your balcony into a haven of flowers and fragrance, so pay us a visit today!</p>

5 great planting ideas for balconies

<p>Here is <strong>how to harvest tomatoes</strong> and how to ensure you can keep harvesting for as long as possible.</p>

<p>The time to start <strong>harvesting tomatoes</strong> is upon us, and in fact, some people will already be enjoying the first tomatoes of the season. It is perhaps one of the most exciting harvests synonymous with the kitchen garden. Growing and harvesting tomatoes is satisfying and rewarding for adults and children alike, so here is how to harvest and how to ensure you can keep harvesting for as long as possible.</p>

<h2>What to look out for when harvesting tomatoes&nbsp;</h2>

<p>As you are harvesting, it is an excellent time to check over the plant to ensure no pests or diseases are present.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Check for browning leaves which could be a sign of blight,</li>
	<li>Check for aphids such as white fly and red spider mite,</li>
	<li>Check the tomatoes for blossom end rot or any signs of stress due to inconsistent watering.</li>
	<li>Don&rsquo;t forget to snip off the side shoots as well to promote more vigorous growth. If you want more tomato plants, pot up the side shoots for a smaller but still productive plant.</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to harvest tomatoes&nbsp;</h2>

<p>This might seem like an easy one, but you have a few options. Harvest the ripe fruits first. Take some which are ripening but can finish off on a sunny windowsill (this is often a good idea if the plant is diseased), or if you are growing a vine variety, pick the best moment to harvest when all of the vine is ripe and snip off the whole vine. The choice is yours, but whichever way you harvest, you are bound to eat one or two on the spot!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Storing tomatoes</h2>

<p>Popping your harvest into a trug, a recycled food container or whatever you can get your hands on is an easy way to get them home to the fridge. We recommend giving them a rinse before storing them in the fridge or somewhere cool if you will be using them straight away. If you have harvested them but not going home for a few hours, store them in a cool bag to keep them fresh.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Ensure a long season of harvesting tomatoes&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Firstly, know what variety you are growing as some will produce more fruits over a more extended period and others may be a little less. Full sun, free-draining soil, consistent water, a feeding schedule and plenty of space are what tomatoes need. Many varieties will be self-fertile, but if you are lacking pollinators (which could be the case if growing under cover), just tickle the flowers when they open to help spread the pollen.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For tomato feed, grow pots and compost plus feed, visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

Harvesting tomatoes

<p>Now&rsquo;s the time to really enjoy your garden, and to keep it looking great, here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for July.</strong></p>

<p>It&rsquo;s summertime, and in the garden, everything is growing like crazy! Now&rsquo;s the time to really enjoy your garden, and to keep it looking great, here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for July</strong>.</p>

<h2>15 summer gardening tips for July</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Sow biennials like wallflowers, honesty and foxgloves now for flowers next spring and early summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Roses, cosmos, sweet peas, daylilies and dahlias all make excellent cut flowers, and cutting them for the house or simply deadheading them will keep more flowers coming all through summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back faded perennials such as hardy geraniums and delphiniums to encourage fresh new leaves and a second flush of flowers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p style="text-align: right;">Lift and divide bearded irises once they have finished flowering. Replant them with the rhizomes partially exposed so that they can be baked by the summer sun.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>July is the time to summer prune your wisteria, cutting all this year&rsquo;s long whippy shoots back to 5-6 leaves from the woody main stems.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep sowing lettuce to give you a regular supply of fresh-picked leaves for salads. Lettuce and other salad leaves are prone to bolt in hot weather, so plant them where they will get some shade from the hot afternoon sun.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water container plants regularly in hot periods. It&rsquo;s especially important to water tomatoes consistently, as sudden downpours are likely to result in split tomatoes after a dry period.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plants that flower and fruit, including tomatoes, beans, peppers, courgettes, blueberries and gooseberries, will all benefit from fortnightly feeding with a liquid high-potash feed such as tomato fertiliser.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out (remove) side-shoots on cordon tomatoes. These are the small leafy shoots that appear in the fork between the main stem and the side stems. Pinch them out by hand to concentrate the plant&rsquo;s energy.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out the tips of broad bean plants once the first pods appear to encourage bushy growth and lots of beans. This will also reduce the risk of blackfly infestations.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Earth up maincrop potatoes to prevent the sunlight from reaching them and turning them green (green potatoes are toxic). Early potatoes should be ready to harvest this month, but dig up one or two first to check that they are big enough.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once beans and courgettes are big enough to pick, harvest regularly to encourage the plants to keep producing fruits.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune stone fruit like peaches, cherries, plums and apricots now while they are in leaf. This reduces the risk of silver leaf infection.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant autumn-flowering bulbs like nerines and colchicums this month for a burst of stunning colour just as other plants are starting to fade.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Lawns grow fast in summer, so to keep yours looking neat, mow it weekly. In hot, dry periods, mow less frequently and raise the lawnmower blades onto a higher setting to avoid stressing the grass.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>With our great range of plants, tools and gardening equipment, you&rsquo;re sure to find everything you need in our centre, so pay us a visit soon!</p>

15 garden tips for July

<p>This list of some of the <strong>best indoor plants for dark rooms</strong> will help you find the perfect plant for any shady space.</p>

<p>Even the shadiest room in the house deserves a houseplant to add a touch of style. This list of some of the <strong>best indoor plants for dark rooms</strong> will help you find the perfect plant for any shady space.</p>

<h2>8 Houseplants that don&rsquo;t need much light</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>The cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) gets its name because it&rsquo;s very hard to kill! It can cope with drought, low light and general neglect; in return, it&rsquo;s excellent at cleaning the air. Don&rsquo;t over-water it &ndash; let the compost dry out before watering to avoid root rot. Wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) has long bamboo-like stems topped with narrow green leaves. It&rsquo;s said to bring good luck, especially when received as a gift. Although it does best in bright indirect light, it will cope with moderate shade. Water regularly.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is also known as Devil&rsquo;s Ivy, thanks to its ability to grow in various conditions. Its heart-shaped variegated leaves will show stronger colour in bright indirect light, but it will also grow happily in low light. The long stems can be trained to climb upwards on supports or allowed to trail elegantly. Allow the compost to dry out between waterings and mist occasionally to increase the humidity around the plant.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>The Peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) is one of the classic plants for shady rooms, with large glossy green leaves and occasional elegant white hooded flowers. It grows well in indirect light and likes to be watered regularly, preferably with rainwater or filtered water. Peace lilies are good at removing toxins from the air.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>The snake plant (Sansevieria) is excellent for anyone struggling to keep a houseplant alive. With long, upwards-pointing variegated leaves, this tough, reliable plant looks extraordinary and contemporary and copes well with shade and neglect. Let the compost dry out between waterings to avoid root rot.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema commutatum) forms a compact clump of glossy green leaves. It grows well in low light levels, although the variegated varieties will have better colour in bright indirect light. Water regularly and mist occasionally.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) will grow in most positions out of direct light. They will tolerate some neglect, but remember to water them regularly. Spider plants are very easy to propagate and make great gifts for family and friends. Cut off the baby spider plants that occasionally appear on long stems, pot them up in individual pots and grow on.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>The Money tree (Pachira Aquatica) probably won&rsquo;t make you rich, but its five-fingered leaves and braided stems make it a beautiful houseplant! It prefers bright indirect light but can grow under fluorescent light and is ideal for an office. Money trees need regular watering, but don&rsquo;t let them sit in wet compost for long periods as this could cause root rot.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Come in and see the wide range of beautiful houseplants in our centre today. You&rsquo;re sure to find one that&rsquo;s just right for you!&nbsp;</p>

8 great indoor plants for dark rooms

<p><img alt="cosmos" height="246" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/files/cosmos-370x246-62c40894ab9a0.jpg" style="width: 370px; height: 246px;" width="370" /></p>

<p>We have all heard about the importance of having a pollinator-friendly garden, but how many of us know what that means and what steps we can take to make our outdoor space more inviting to pollinators? If you want to take the first steps to creating a garden perfect for bees and other pollinators, here are some helpful tips.</p>

<h2>What is a Pollinator?</h2>

<p>Pollinators are vital contributors to our ecosystem and, put simply, humans would not survive without them. Around 35% of the food we eat is a direct result of the work of pollinators. They are crucial to the reproduction of wildflowers and plants &ndash; a necessity to provide enough oxygen, especially in a world where the increased use of fossil fuels has led to more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.</p>

<p>Bees are the most well-known but other wildlife including birds, butterflies, ants, and bats are also pollinators.</p>

<h2>An Inviting Environment</h2>

<p>Creating an environment that is attractive to pollinators is not difficult but does take planning. You can make your outdoor space more inviting to pollinators whatever its size, so whether you have a balcony or a large garden, aim to imitate nature.</p>

<p>Before you begin planting, plan. As well as plants and flowers (situated in a sunny but sheltered spot), pollinators will also benefit from access to water, so a pond or bird bath is ideal. If you have limited space, even a saucer of water will help. Consider creating a safe space for pollinators to settle within your garden by providing bug hotels, bird boxes, and nesting boxes for bees. These can be bought ready-made, or you could make your own. When planting, do so in groups (if you have a courtyard or balcony, grow in containers), as this makes it easier for the pollinator to travel from flower to flower, rather than when mixing flower types, which can make it harder for pollinators to pick up a scent or focus on a colour. Planting in blocks will create a big impression that will be irresistible to them.</p>

<h2>The Best Plants for Pollinators</h2>

<p>When planting with pollinators in mind, think about how you can make their job easier. Bees can see colour, but their spectrum is different from ours. Blue and purple flowers are most visible to them, which is why bushes such as lavender attract vast numbers of bees. Blue flowers are also nectar-rich, making them appealing to pollinators, and with a wider choice of blue flowers available than you might think, there is no excuse not to help our pollinator friends.</p>

<p>Forget-me-not and blue pearl crocus are popular spring choices, with love-in-a-mist and chicory excellent choices for a pollinator-friendly summer garden. Blue salvia and globe thistle will keep the bees happy into late summer and autumn. Aim to have plants in your garden that will attract pollinators for as much of the year as possible, and don&rsquo;t forget night flowers for moths!</p>

<p>When flower shopping, rather than closed flowers, look for single-petal plants with flatter flowers and a visible stamen. This gives the pollinator easy access to the nectar and pollen. Good examples are cosmos and echinacea, with a large central pollen hub to draw in bees. Choose native plants where possible, as they are best suited for native pollinators, and don&rsquo;t be tempted to just plant those that are most visually appealing &ndash; a diverse garden will attract more pollinators.</p>

<p>Gently scented flowers and herbs can attract pollinators as well as make your garden fragrant &ndash; when choosing seeds, look for the RHS Plants for Pollinators logo of a bumblebee against a yellow background, so you know you are choosing the most inviting options.</p>

<h2>The Power of Rewilding</h2>

<p>Rewilding doesn&rsquo;t have to mean a messy garden. You can opt for a soft approach like No Mow May (a campaign originally started by botanical charity Plantlife to delay the first grass cut of the season until June to encourage the growth of dandelions and other early season weeds, which pollinators will be grateful for), or go wild and create your own dreamy wildflower meadow, perfect for the cottage garden look. Even a more natural-looking garden will need looking after, especially in the drier summer months. Water well, especially after planting seeds, to encourage growth.</p>

<p>Avoid using pesticides and weedkillers. These are harmful to soil and wildlife and are not compatible with creating a pollinator-friendly garden. Instead, if you do need to remove weeds, pull them up by hand.</p>

<p>Transforming your garden into a pollinator-friendly environment is a rewarding pastime that will bring joy to both you and the creatures who you live alongside. Whether you start small or adapt your whole outdoor space, the changes you make are benefiting the environment too, so be proud of the part you are playing in making our world a better place. And if you need advice on plants, talk to the experts at Carpenter&rsquo;s!</p>

Planting a Pollinator Friendly Garden

<p>Here are some of the <strong>top plant care products you might need in the summer</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>There are many <strong>plant care products to use in summer</strong>​since it is the time of year when the garden is in full flower and crops are abundant. Not only will you be immersed in the joy of gardening, but you will also bring home crops of homegrown fruit and vegetables, cut flowers for the vase and herbs for a healthy herbal tea. We hope you get some relaxing time in the garden to enjoy everything you have grown, but there will also be plenty to do as your plants will need to be taken care of to keep them thriving. These are some of the top plant care products you might need in the summer.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Plant care products you need in the summer</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Crop netting</strong>: many plants will soon be devoured by garden pests. Brassicas, for example, can appear fine one day and then be munched by caterpillars the next day. Ideally, some butterfly netting will keep them at bay. Other nets might be needed to cover over your fruit to stop birds from pinching the fruit before you get to them, and the same for peas and even some fruit trees.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Carrot root fly protection</strong>: if you are growing carrots in the ground, you will most likely need some root fly protection. They can&#39;t fly above 60cm, so the protection won&#39;t be required if you are growing in a higher raised bed. You can also companion plants with chives and spring onions in the ground. For example, carrot root flies won&#39;t like the smell of those, but the best method is to cover&nbsp;your carrots with a fine mesh that they can&#39;t get through.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Cabbage collars</strong>: if you are growing your own cabbages, cauliflowers, sprouts and broccoli, place a cabbage collar around the base to protect them from cabbage root flies and deter slugs and snails. They just sit around the bottom of the plant and help to protect them as they grow throughout the summer.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Plant feed</strong>: many plants will need extra feed during summer, especially crops such as tomatoes and bedding plants in hanging baskets or containers. Many organic fertilisers are available, which will give your plants the boost they need.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Secateurs</strong>: both to harvest and deadhead, secateurs are a must! Keep on top of deadheading, and many plants will continue to bloom for an extended period. Clean, sharp secateurs will make this job much more manageable.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Please find all of your plant care products in store when you visit us. We ensure your garden looks at its best this summer.&nbsp;</p>

Plant care products to use in summer

<p>We show you <strong>six of our favourite hardy plants</strong> to grow in your garden.</p>

<p>These <strong>hardy plants for your garden</strong> will help you create a colourful space with plants that will grow back year after year. Each of these are easy to grow and care for, and you will know that they will survive cold weather over the winter and soon grow back up above the soil again in spring. Hardy plants mean less need for lifting plants and protecting plants, and you can sit back and enjoy your garden. We show you <strong>six of our favourite hardy plants</strong> to grow in your garden.</p>

<h2>Hardy plants to grow in your garden</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Achillea (yarrow)</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>Yarrow has feathery foliage and brightly coloured flat flower heads. It&#39;s attractive to pollinators and can brighten up a border in no time. It&#39;s often one of the first and last to flower in the garden, it has a long flowering season and looks great in a bunch of cut flowers. Plant in a sunny spot with well-drained soil.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="2">
	<li><strong>Hylotelephium spectabile (sedum)&nbsp;</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>Not only hardy, but it doesn&#39;t need much water either, so this is highly sought after and enjoyed perennially. It flowers in late summer and is another plant perfect for pollinators. The seed heads also look incredible over winter giving food and shelter to insects.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="3">
	<li><strong>Lamprocapnos spectabilis (bleeding heart)</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>Once known as Dicentra, the bleeding heart is a well-loved perennial that will flower with rows of pink or white heart-shaped flowers. It is a sight to behold! Part shade and moist soil are preferable, and it will grow and works well surrounded by Hostas and Ferns.</p>

<ol start="4">
	<li><strong>Geranium (cranesbill)&nbsp;</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>Cranesbill isn&#39;t the same as the bedding Geranium that graces containers and hanging baskets in the summer. It&#39;s a hardy perennial that can cover ground really quickly. There are many to choose from, including vibrant pink to almost blue, and they need very little care. These can flower for a long spring and summer period and grow back again the following year.</p>

<ol start="5">
	<li><strong>Alchemilla mollie (lady&#39;s mantle)</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>Perhaps one of the hardiest of them all, the vibrant green flowers work well with just about any other garden plant and in a vase of cut flowers. It needs very little care but will self-seed readily, so keep an eye on seedlings popping up where you don&#39;t want them and cut back the flower heads as they fade. Lady&#39;s mantle looks good in a border mixed with Salvia nemorosa and Penstemon.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="6">
	<li><strong>Erysimum (wallflowers)&nbsp;</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>As an evergreen perennial, wall flowers should be in everyone&#39;s garden! Not only can you find various colours, including two-tone flowers, but they also attract bees and flowers for months on end. Grow these in full sun and well-drained soil, even in chalky soil and in coastal gardens where they will look great with Miscanthus. Ideally, prune it after flowering to keep it healthy.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Buy hardy plants in %locations%</h2>

<p>Are you looking for plants to fill borders, containers and beddings without worrying that they won&#39;t survive the winter? We have an extensive selection of hardy plants for your garden to choose from in store. Please visit us and check our range. Are you looking for something specific? Please ask our staff.</p>

Hardy plants for your garden

<p>These <strong>top 5 best plants for scent</strong> will ensure your garden is full of fragrance throughout the year and your senses are fulfilled with the gorgeous aroma of nature.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 5 best plants for scent</strong> will ensure your garden is full of fragrance throughout the year and your senses are fulfilled with the gorgeous aroma of nature. Many plants have a wonderful fragrance, and which ones you choose to grow in your garden can come down to your soil and aspect and your personal preference for the scent. For example, there are many roses, each with a different aroma that may appeal to one person more than another. Take the time to research the various scents to know you will be enjoying both a plant and a smell you will love. Here are our recommendations:&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Plants for scent</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Night Scented Stock&nbsp;</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>This hardy annual fills the garden with fragrance in the evening. So when you are sitting in your garden on a summer evening, Night Scented Stock will fill the air and your senses. Sow seeds near to where you will sit or where you leave a window open so you can fully enjoy the fragrance. Try growing in containers or window boxes along with other colourful annuals.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="2">
	<li><strong>Sarcococca</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>This is a winter-flowering shrub that is a true delight when not much else is flowering during the colder months of the year. The white flowers have an incredible sweet honey scent and will be surrounded by dark green leaves and later berries. It&#39;s an excellent shrub for beneficial insects and easy to grow.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="3">
	<li><strong>Gardenia&nbsp;</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>The Gardenia is perhaps one of the most well known fragrant plants. Gardenia is as graceful as it is fragrant. The bright white flowers not only smell lovely, but the flowers are simply stunning. They will be in full bloom from summer to early autumn and can be grown in containers or borders as long as they are situated in a sheltered position.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="4">
	<li><strong>Honeysuckle</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>The intoxicating scent of the Honeysuckle is known and loved by many. This climbing plant grows perfectly up a trellis, arch or pergola, and if positioned near a seating area, the scent is perfect for putting your feet up and breathing in the sweet fragrance. There are many Honeysuckles to choose from, including orange and pink colours to cream and yellow, so you can pick one that suits your garden.&nbsp;</p>

<ol start="5">
	<li><strong>Nemesia</strong></li>
</ol>

<p>This annual has made it to the list due to the many different colours and scents you can discover. Best planted in a hanging basket or container; make sure yours are near a window, door or seating area because you will want to give them a sniff! Nemesia is available in various colours, from purple to pink, white to yellow. Discover Nemesia&#39;s fragrance of rhubarb to sugar that smells&nbsp;absolutely stunning.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Buy plants with fragrance in %locations%</h2>

<p>Explore our fabulous<span style="font-size: 13px;">&nbsp;range at our garden centre and f</span><span style="font-size: 13px;">ill your garden with scent. Please have a look and sniff at our scented range and c</span><span style="font-size: 13px;">hoose from our fragrant plants in store. Are you looking for a specific plant? Please ask our garden employees.&nbsp;They&#39;re always willing to help you find the perfect plant.</span></p>

Top 5 best plants for scent

<p>We&rsquo;ve put together <strong>6 top tips to help you attract more wildlife to your garden</strong>.</p>

<p>Our gardens are hugely important habitats for wildlife, providing food and shelter to a wide range of creatures from birds and bees to bugs and worms. A wildlife-friendly garden is good for gardeners, with birds and beneficial insects helping keep pests under control. We&rsquo;ve put together <strong>6 top tips to help you attract more wildlife to your garden</strong>. Discover how to create a wildlife-friendly garden, and help butterflies, birds and bees survive.</p>

<h2>Six tips to transform your garden into a wildlife paradise</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Plant shrubs and trees to bring more birds into your garden. Evergreen shrubs provide much-needed winter shelter for birds, thorny plants give protection against predators, and berry-bearing shrubs and trees are a welcome source of food. Holly, hawthorn, crab apples and pyracantha are excellent bird-friendly plants to add to your garden.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Put up a few bird feeders near shrubs or trees to give birds a quick escape route if cats or other predators appear. Keep your feeders topped up to encourage birds to make regular visits. Ground-feeders like robins and blackbirds will feed off bird tables and enjoy mealworms, seeds and fruit, while tits and finches flock to hanging seed feeders.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Flowers that produce seed heads, such as rudbeckia, echinacea, teasels and sunflowers, are great for attracting small birds. Even the occasional dandelion is suitable for a wildlife garden, as bees love the nectar, and goldfinches will happily eat the fluffy seeds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill your garden with plenty of pollinator-friendly flowers. Flowers with open centres, like daisies and single dahlias, make it easy for bees and other pollinators to reach the nectar at the centre. Umbellifers like Achillea, Anthriscus and even coriander with their flattened flowerheads are very popular with beneficial insects like ladybirds and hoverflies. Aim to have something flowering every month of the year to provide food for pollinators. Ivy is great for late autumn, and Sarcococca (Christmas box), mahonia and crocuses will feed early foraging insects from January through to March.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Ponds are fantastic for attracting wildlife. Site your pond so that at least part of it gets full sun, and include a ramp or rocks placed so that visiting wildlife can quickly get in and out without drowning. If you can&rsquo;t dig a pond in your garden, you can create one in a large container such as an old tin bath or a big, deep washing-up bowl. Fill it with water, add a couple of pond plants and place a few rocks around the edge to disguise it and provide an access route for wildlife.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep an area of grass unmown between March-April and August-September to provide a habitat for spiders and insects. This will also allow nectar-rich wildflowers like clover, ox-eye daisies and hawkbit to grow, providing extra food for pollinators.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<h2>Get everything you need at our garden centre in %locations%</h2>

<p>Do you want to attract more wildlife to your garden and increase biodiversity in your area?&nbsp;You&rsquo;ll find a fantastic range of wildlife-friendly plants and&nbsp;flowers,&nbsp;bird feeders, insect hotels, etc.,&nbsp;at our centre, so come in and see us soon!&nbsp;</p>

6 ways to attract wildlife to your garden

<p>Top tips to help you get the most out of your veg plot in summer.</p>

<p><strong>Summer&#39;s&nbsp;</strong>an exciting time in the <strong>vegetable garden</strong> when all your hard work pays off and crops start to ripen. With so much going on, it can be hard to know what to tackle first, so we&#39;ve put together our top tips to help you get the most out of your veg plot.</p>

<h2>Tips to get the most of your kitchen garden in summer</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Keep your vegetable beds clear of weeds that compete with your plants for food and water. A Dutch hoe is ideal for dealing with annual weeds like chickweed and hairy bittercress.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Stop harvesting rhubarb stems after July to allow the plants to build up their reserves for next year.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep earthing up maincrop potatoes to stop sunlight from reaching the tubers and turning them green (green potatoes are toxic). When the leaves of your potato plants start to turn yellow, it&#39;s time to harvest.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest runner beans, French beans and courgettes regularly taste best when young and tender, and it encourages the plants to keep producing more fruit.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Broad bean plants are often prone to blackfly infestation, so pinch out the growing tips once pods have formed at the base of the plant. This will discourage the blackfly, which tends to go for fresh young shoots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Feed tomatoes fortnightly with high potash food and pinch out side-shoots on cordon tomatoes. Water regularly to maintain a consistent moisture level in the soil &ndash; allowing the soil to dry out and then watering heavily is likely to cause tomatoes to split.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>You can still sow French and runner beans, beetroot and carrots in July for autumn harvests. Pak choi is less likely to bolt if planted after midsummer and can be harvested through autumn and winter. Sow lamb&#39;s lettuce, turnips and perpetual spinach for winter harvests, and chard, spring onions and spring cabbage for harvesting next spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>As pumpkins start to develop on the vines, place a brick or slate under the fruits to keep them off the ground and reduce the risk of rotting. Remove any leaves affected by powdery mildew.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberry plants will be putting out runners now &ndash; these are long stems bearing clusters of leaves. To make new plants, peg the leaf clusters down on the soil or in small pots filled with compost and keep them watered for a few weeks until they produce roots. They can then be cut off the mother plant and grown as separate strawberry plants. If you don&#39;t need new strawberry plants, cut the runners off to conserve your existing plants&#39; energy.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Bolting (producing flowers early and setting seed) is a common problem for many plants in summer, especially lettuce, spinach, onions, leeks and radishes. Once a plant has started to bolt, there&#39;s not much you can do to stop it, but instead of digging up bolted plants and composting them straight away, leave a few to flower and attract pollinators.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Get the most out of your garden this summer with our centre&#39;s fantastic range of garden tools, seeds, and plants. Why not visit us today?</p>

Vegetable gardening tips for summer

<p>Here are our top tips on <strong>watering your plants in summer</strong>.</p>

<p>When the temperature soars in summer, we&rsquo;re not the only ones needing a cool refreshing drink of water. Keeping our plants watered is vital to their health, so here are our top tips on <strong>watering your plants in summer</strong>.</p>

<h2>Why plants need water</h2>

<p>Plants need water for the same reason we do, to keep hydrated so that their cells can function. In addition, plants can only absorb nutrients from the soil when those nutrients are dissolved in water, so regular watering is essential to keep plants alive and fed. Many plants from dry areas have adapted to cope with periods of drought, but all plants still need some water to survive.</p>

<h2>Garden watering equipment</h2>

<p>You don&rsquo;t need complicated equipment to water plants &ndash; anything that will hold water will do in a pinch. However, a wide range of equipment is available to make watering easier and more effective.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Watering cans are inexpensive and work well for watering pots and seedlings. However, using a watering can is time-consuming if you have lots of pots, and they are not practical for a big garden.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>A hosepipe attached to a garden tap is easier to use and more useful than a watering can but can still be time-consuming. To conserve water, attach a spray gun to the hose pipe so that you can direct the water exactly where it&rsquo;s needed.</li>
	<li>If you don&rsquo;t have time to water your garden by hand, you could install an irrigation system such as a soaker hose, drip hose or sprinklers. These systems can be connected to a timer or even controlled via an app on a smartphone.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>5 Tips on watering plants effectively</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Water in the evening or early morning when the temperature is cooler to reduce water loss through evaporation.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water container plants, even if it has rained, as their foliage can act as an umbrella stopping rain from reaching the compost below. Use your finger to check whether the compost is still moist below the surface.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water newly established trees and shrubs thoroughly at least once a week in the first year after planting. A good soaking every few days is better for plants than a light watering every day, encouraging roots to grow deep in search of water and making plants more drought-resilient in dry periods.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>To save water, connect a water butt to a downpipe to collect the rainwater that comes off your roof, and use this for watering your plants.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you&rsquo;re going away for a few days, make a self-watering system for your pots. Find an empty wine or plastic water bottle with a cap. Pierce a hole in the lid, fill the bottle with water and stand it upside down in the pot. The water will gradually trickle out of the bottle into the soil over a couple of days.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Keep your garden well watered this summer with our extensive range of watering equipment. Our friendly staff are always happy to advise!</p>

How to water your plants in summer

<p>Turn a small space into a herb garden with a <strong>vertical herb planter</strong> upcycled from a wooden <strong>pallet</strong>.</p>

<p>Turn a small space into a herb garden with a <strong>vertical herb planter</strong> upcycled from a wooden <strong>pallet</strong>. You can make this simple, low-cost planter in an afternoon and be harvesting your own tasty herbs by dinnertime! Our garden centre in %locations% has an extensive range of delicious herb plants that add flavour to any dish. Visit our centre and get started!</p>

<h2>What you need</h2>

<ul>
	<li>A wooden pallet</li>
	<li>Three wooden planks to form the bases of the planting boxes. The width of the planks should be the same as the inside depth of the pallet.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Hammer</li>
	<li>Nails</li>
	<li>Drill</li>
	<li>Plastic or horticultural liner fabric</li>
</ul>

<h2>Sourcing used wooden pallets</h2>

<p>Used wooden pallets are readily available online. You may also be able to get hold of free wooden pallets by asking your local supermarket and small businesses in your area or at construction sites.</p>

<p>Wherever you get your pallets from, it&rsquo;s essential to check that they are safe to work with. Most wooden pallets have been treated in some way to protect against insects and fungi and are printed with a mark to show the type of treatment applied.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Which pallets are safe to use</h2>

<p>Pallets with the following markings have not been treated with toxic chemicals and are safe to use:</p>

<ul>
	<li>DB &ndash; pallets made of debarked wood&nbsp;</li>
	<li>KD &ndash; kiln-dried pallets</li>
	<li>HT &ndash; heat treated pallets</li>
</ul>

<p>Avoid pallets marked MB, as these will have been treated with methyl bromide, which is highly toxic. It&rsquo;s also good to check what the pallets have been previously used for. Also, avoid pallets that have been used to ship toxic chemicals or anything that could have spilt onto the wood and been absorbed.</p>

<h2>How to make a vertical planter out of a pallet</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>When the pallet is stood on edge so that the slatted face is at the back and the slats run horizontally, there will typically be three slats on the front face which will form the fronts of your planting boxes.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Create a base for each of these planting boxes using a plank of wood fitted into the space between the front and back faces of the pallet. Nail the floor in place if necessary.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Line each planting box with plastic (old compost bags turned inside-out are ideal) or horticultural lining fabric. This will protect the wood so that your planter lasts longer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Drill holes in the base of each planting box for drainage.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Before planting your herbs, place your pallet in its final position, ideally in a spot that gets sun for more than half the day. These versatile planters can be leant against a wall or fixed to it with screws. If you don&rsquo;t have a wall available, you can set two sturdy posts into the ground and use these to support your planter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill the planting boxes with multipurpose compost, then plant your herbs and water them in.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>You&rsquo;ll find a fantastic range of herbs in our centre and everything else you need for your herb garden. Come in and see what&rsquo;s in store!</p>

How to make a vertical pallet herb garden

<p>There are many options and plenty of advice for <strong>keeping a thriving, green lawn</strong>, so we have put together some easy ways to make sure your property is treated and cared for organically with the environment in mind.</p>

<p>Understanding <strong>organic lawn care</strong> can seem like a lot to understand. There are many options and plenty of advice for keeping a thriving, green lawn, so we have put together some easy ways to make sure your property is treated and cared for organically with the environment in mind. Yards can be perfectly mowed or left to grow wild. Even Clover, Chamomile, and Creeping Thyme lawns are lovely, but these tips are for the green, grassy lawn to make it spongy beneath your feet!</p>
<h2>Basic organic lawn care advice&nbsp;</h2>
<p>As the weather warms up in spring, begin to rake the grass gently, so you remove any winter debris and weed foliage. This could be composted or left in a pile for your garden birds. Sow lawn seeds when the soil is level and protect them from birds or feet using horticultural fleece. Dig out perennial weeds as needed and aerate the lawn using a fork.</p>
<h2>Organic lawn care starts with sowing the right seed</h2>
<p>It’s wise to pick the right seed for the usage of your lawn. Otherwise, you’ll be spending a lot of time and resources trying to maintain it than would be needed. If it is grass seed you are starting with or turf, it's important to choose the right grass variety for your purpose. Here's an overview of which types of grasses exist:</p>
<ul>
<li>
<p><strong>ryegrass</strong> for a hard-wearing lawn,</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>bentgrass</strong> to grow a thick lawn,</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>red fescue</strong> as another hard-wearing lawn,</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>dwarf ryegrass</strong> is ideal for most UK gardens.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
</ul>
<h2>Mowing for organic lawn care</h2>
<p>When you begin to mow your lawn in later spring, start with a high settling before gradually lowering it to the length you desire. Clippings can go onto the compost heap and sometimes left on the lawn to allow them to release nitrogen back into the soil. Clippings can also be used to mulch around your plants and trees.</p>
<h2>Organic lawn care watering and feeding tips</h2>
<p>The most important aspect of organic lawn care is to ensure any lawn feed you use is organic. If you buy either a liquid or pellet form of feed, always check the label. Chicken manure, seaweed and top dressing are easy and organic ways to feed your lawn, each with benefits and potential issues. You may not need to feed your lawn at all if you keep it well aerated and watered. Watering is ideally by rainwater, and it is pretty incredible just how fast a yellowing lawn recovers after a dry spell. Always apply any feed as per instructions - usually once or twice a year. Watering is ideally undertaken in the mornings and not in the heat of the day, which will help it reach the roots rather than evaporate.&nbsp;</p>
<p>See us in store for lawn care accessories and advice. Our staff workers know everything about grass seeds, fertilisers and grass mowers, so ask them whatever you need to know to keep a healthy, green and lush lawn.</p>

Organic Lawn Care

<p>To help you get started with container planting, we&rsquo;ve put together our tips on the most <strong>common container gardening mistakes to avoid</strong>.</p>

<p>Container gardening enables you to create a garden anywhere &ndash; on a balcony or patio, in rental accommodation or just on a sunny windowsill. To help you get started, we&rsquo;ve put together our tips on the most <strong>common container gardening mistakes to avoid</strong>.</p>

<h2>Avoid these seven container gardening tips</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Avoid using lots of small containers. Small pots dry out fast and need frequent watering. A space filled with lots of small pots can also feel cluttered and claustrophobic. Using big pots in a small area may seem counter-intuitive, but it&rsquo;s true - a few large pots will have more impact, making the space feel more spacious and easier to maintain.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Don&rsquo;t let your plants become rootbound. This happens when there&rsquo;s no more space in the pot for the roots to spread out, so they grow into a tangled mass. Once roots start growing through the drainage holes, it&rsquo;s time to repot your plant into a bigger container, ideally with a diameter 8-10cm (3-4in) larger than the existing container. When re-potting container-grown shrubs and trees, make sure they are at the same depth in the new container, as planting too deep can cause the trunk to rot.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Don&rsquo;t forget to feed your container plants. Although the compost they&rsquo;re planted in contains nutrients, these get used up in the first 4 to 6 weeks after planting, and nutrients also get washed out of the pot every time you water. Different plants have different feeding needs, so do your research first. For example, container-grown tomatoes need a fortnightly high-potash feed once they start to produce fruit, while succulents like sempervivums need minimal extra feeding.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water your container plants regularly, and don&rsquo;t just rely on rainfall, as your plants&rsquo; foliage can stop rain from reaching the compost. Dig your finger into the compost to check whether container plants need watering to see whether it is still moist below the surface or use a moisture gauge.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Don&rsquo;t apply liquid feed if your pots are dry. Water your plants first and then use a diluted liquid feed; otherwise, it&rsquo;s difficult for the roots to absorb the nutrients. And don&rsquo;t be tempted to ignore the dilution instructions &ndash; liquid feed will burn plant roots if it&rsquo;s too concentrated.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Good drainage is absolutely essential for container plants, so don&rsquo;t forget to check that containers have drainage holes (drill some if necessary). Before putting compost in new pots, place a few crocks (pottery shards) or big stones over the holes to stop compost from clogging them up, and raise pots on pot feet over winter to prevent your plants from sitting in cold, soggy compost.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Big pots can be weighty when filled with compost, so don&rsquo;t try to move them after planting them. Please place them in their final positions while still empty, and then add your compost and plants. Or place big pots on a trolley, so you can move them easier.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Are you looking for trendy container plants and pots? We stock colourful flower pots, containers and planters, and a seasonal range of bedding plants and perennials that will look beautiful in your garden. Shop everything you need in our centre in %locations%.</p>

7 container gardening mistakes to avoid

<p>Hanging baskets and containers can bring a lot of colour and joy to a garden. Here&#39;s how to water them.</p>

<p>If you wonder <strong>how to water hanging baskets</strong> properly to ensure your plants thrive, you might be surprised to know that watering well can make such a big difference to the health of your plants. Hanging baskets and containers can bring a lot of colour and joy to a garden. They&#39;re especially good for small spaces where using vertical areas is ideal, they can be full of colourful flowers or edible produce for an extended period from spring to summer with the proper care.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>The important part of how to water hanging baskets&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The top point about watering baskets and containers is why it is so important! Watering plants gives them the moisture they need to help them thrive, especially when there is little rain. With any plant grown in a container or basket as opposed to directly in the ground, they will need more watering because plants soon use up all of the resources in the compost, and it will quickly dry out. Always make sure there are drainage holes,&nbsp;so your plants aren&rsquo;t sitting in wet compost.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use rainwater to water hanging baskets&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Rainwater is the best way to water your plants,&nbsp;and this is no different for hanging baskets. If your basket is getting plenty of rainwater, there may not be any need for extra watering, but if there isn&rsquo;t any rain or if the rain is light, you will definitely need to water your hanging baskets. Try collecting rainwater in water butts to use on your plants as needed.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to water hanging baskets and retain water&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many ways to help retain moisture in baskets and containers:&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Insert a water reservoir in the bottom of the liner.</li>
	<li>Using&nbsp;a coconut coir liner helps with water retention.</li>
	<li>Using good quality compost will help and many are created to help retain moisture.</li>
	<li>There is also the option to mix in vermiculite or perlite, which can help and incorporate some worm compost.</li>
	<li>Covering the soil with a mulch such as grass clippings can also help.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Morning or night choice when considering how to water hanging baskets&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Mornings tend to be the best time of day to water your garden. Your plants will be able to have a good drink before the hotter days, and also it helps if you have slugs and snails who tend to like moisture and will be out at night time.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to water hanging baskets with self-watering containers&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are container options for both hanging baskets and railing containers. Use one with a pre-built-in reservoir. These are helpful and can look stylish too.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Keep your hanging baskets thriving with plants, compost and accessories in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to water hanging baskets

<p>Keep your garden looking its best with our <strong>top 15 garden jobs for June</strong>.</p>

<p>Summer&#39;s almost here! The gardening season has started, and beautiful flowers are in bloom or already have flowered. This season, there&#39;s still plenty to do in the garden. With flowers in full bloom and crops ripening in the vegetable plot, June&rsquo;s a beautiful garden month.&nbsp;Keep your garden looking its best with our <strong>top 15 garden jobs for June</strong>.</p>

<h2>15 June&#39;s gardening tips</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Sow basil seeds for a supply of fresh leaves all summer. The seeds germinate very quickly in warm conditions, so don&rsquo;t sow them too densely and thin out once they emerge.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow lettuce, radishes, carrots and beetroot in the vegetable garden. Now&rsquo;s also an excellent time to sow runner and French beans directly outdoors.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant out courgette, tomato, pepper and sweetcorn seedlings. If you started out runner and French beans indoors last month, plant them out as well.&nbsp; Plant tomato seedlings deep so that the first set of leaves is just above ground level. This will encourage the plant to produce more roots and give you bigger, more vigorous plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out side-shoots on cordon tomatoes to concentrate the plant&rsquo;s energy on producing plentiful trusses of fruit. There&rsquo;s no need to pinch out side-shoots on bush tomatoes.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Feed pot-grown tomatoes, peppers and courgettes fortnightly with a high potash liquid feed to promote the development of flowers and fruit.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now that the leaves of daffodils, tulips and other spring bulbs are fading, cut them back to ground level to keep the beds looking tidy.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>The weeds will be growing just as fast as all your other plants, so weed regularly to stop them from taking over. On dry days, use a Dutch hoe to cut down annual weeds like chickweed and hairy bittercress and leave them on the soil to dry.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant up hanging baskets with summer bedding like petunias, calibrachoa and geraniums to give you months of colour. Fuchsias, begonias and busy lizzies are fabulous for pots and hanging baskets in shady spots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>First early potatoes should be ready to harvest once the flowers have opened, but dig up one or two first to check whether they are big enough.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberries will be starting to ripen now, so cover the plants with nets to stop birds from stealing the delicious berries.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune spring-flowering shrubs like weigela and forsythia once flowering has finished, cutting back the flowered shoots to vigorous side shoots and taking out one in every four old stems at ground level.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Check evergreen hedges for nesting birds before trimming them, and take care not to disturb nesting birds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead roses and pick sweetpeas regularly to keep them flowering for a long period over summer.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make the most effective use of your water by watering the garden in the morning or evening when it&rsquo;s cooler.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Mow the lawn once a week. In hot, dry spells, raise the mower blades to a higher setting to not stress the grass.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>If you need ideas for your garden, visit our centre! We have everything you need to get your garden in shape for the summer.</p>

15 garden tips for June

<p>We&rsquo;ve put together a list of seven of our <strong>favourite biennials for you to sow</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Sowing biennials</strong> is an easy and low-cost way to fill your garden with beautiful flowers. Biennials live for two years, developing roots and leaves in their first year and flowering in their second. After flowering, they set seed and die, but many will self-seed liberally, so once you have them in your garden, they&rsquo;ll keep on appearing for years. We&rsquo;ve put together a list of seven of our favourite biennials for you to sow.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Sow biennials</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Wallflowers</strong> (Cheiranthus cheiri) are a splash of colour in spring, and their fragrant flowers are an excellent early nectar source for pollinating insects. Sow under cover in February and March for planting in August and September, or sow outdoors in seedbeds in April and May and transplant in autumn or early spring. Wallflowers look great combined with tulips for a fantastic spring display.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Foxgloves</strong> (Digitalis purpurea) are ideal for dappled shade, producing tall flower spires in summer that are a favourite with bumblebees. Sow from April to July in a greenhouse or directly outdoors where they are to flower the following year. Plant out indoor-grown seedlings in autumn. Foxgloves self-seed liberally, so you&rsquo;ll have flowers for years to come once they&#39;re established in your garden.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Columbine</strong> (Aquilegia vulgaris, also known as Granny&rsquo;s bonnet) are beautiful cottage garden plants ideal for a cut-flower garden. Sow indoors from January to May or directly outdoors from February to June and September to October. Aquilegias self-seed very quickly.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Honesty</strong> (Lunaria annua) is famous for its silvery seedheads and its mauve or white flowers in spring and grows well in the sun or dappled shade. Start the seeds off in small pots in May and June, or sow them directly outdoors. The plants have long taproots, so they are best transplanted while still small. Honesty sown in summer will flower the following spring, providing an early food source for pollinators.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hollyhocks</strong> (Alcea rosea) are tall and statuesque, fantastic for adding height at the back of a border, and bees love the big, colourful flowers. Sow outdoors in modules in summer and plant out in autumn for flowers the following year. Hollyhocks self-seed readily.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Sweet William</strong> (Dianthus barbatus) produces sweetly scented colourful flowers on neat mounds of delicate foliage, perfect for pots and window boxes.&nbsp; Sow in seed trays or modules in a greenhouse in summer and plant out in autumn.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hesperis matronalis</strong> (sweet rocket) flowers in late spring and early summer, producing pretty purple or white flowers very similar to honesty with a lovely scent most noticeable in the evenings. Sow outdoors in late spring and early summer for flowers the following year.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Now is the ideal time to start sowing biennials for next year, and we have a fantastic range of seeds in stock. You&rsquo;ll find everything you need in our centre!</p>

7 beautiful biennials to sow

<p>By <strong>planting pollinator-friendly flowers</strong>, you can create a beautiful and beneficial garden</p>

<p>It&rsquo;s impossible to overstate just how important <strong>pollinators</strong> are to our lives. Without pollinators such as bees, hoverflies and butterflies, hardly any fruit and vegetables we eat would exist. And with the insect population under increasing pressure from habitat loss, chemicals and climate change, our pollinators need all the help we can give them. By <strong>planting pollinator-friendly flowers</strong>, you can create a beautiful and beneficial garden.</p>

<h2>Tips for planting a pollinator-friendly garden</h2>

<p>When choosing plants for your pollinator-friendly garden, aim to have at least one plant in flower at any time of year. Winter and early spring are the most challenging times for pollinators, so it&rsquo;s essential to include plants that will flower in those seasons. To protect pollinators, do your best to avoid spraying pesticides in your garden, and never use pesticides on plants that are in flower.</p>

<h2>How to know if your flowers are pollinator-friendly</h2>

<p>There are several ways to find out which are the most pollinator-friendly plants. The Royal Horticultural Society has a list of pollinator-friendly plants for each season, but you can also tell a lot by looking at your plants.&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Flowers like daisies and single dahlias with large open centres are great for pollinators. Double flowers with masses of petals may look striking, but they&rsquo;re not ideal for a pollinator-friendly garden, as bees can&rsquo;t find their way into the centre of the flower to get to the pollen and nectar. However, if you love the lush, opulent look of double flowers, there&rsquo;s no need to banish them from your garden. Just make sure you have plenty of pollinator-friendly varieties around too.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Flowers with flattened flowerheads, like achillea, fennel, cow parsley and coriander, are also excellent for pollinators, especially hoverflies. (And hoverfly larvae eat aphids, which is another excellent reason to encourage them into your garden!)</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>A top tip for finding pollinator-friendly flowers at the garden centre is following the bees. They&rsquo;ll be humming around their favourite flowers!</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Pollinator-friendly flowers for every season</h2>

<p>To keep your pollinators supplied with food all year round, aim to have at least one or two plants in flower at any time. This list will give you a few ideas to start with:</p>

<p><strong>Pollinator-friendly winter flowers:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Mahonia&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Sarcococca confusa (Christmas box)&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Hellebores&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Crocus&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Snowdrops</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Pollinator-friendly spring flowers:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Primrose</li>
	<li>Bergenia</li>
	<li>Japanese maple</li>
	<li>Honesty</li>
	<li>Cranesbill</li>
	<li>Erysimum (wallflower)</li>
	<li>Euphorbia</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Pollinator-friendly summer flowers:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Achillea</li>
	<li>Agastache</li>
	<li>Borage</li>
	<li>Dahlia&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Echinacea</li>
	<li>Echinops</li>
	<li>Hollyhock</li>
	<li>Geraniums</li>
	<li>Lavender</li>
	<li>Limnanthes douglasii (poached eggplant)</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Pollinator-friendly autumn flowers:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Dahlia</li>
	<li>Ivy</li>
	<li>Anemone x hybrida (Japanese anemone)</li>
	<li>Fatsia japonica</li>
	<li>Symphotricum (Michaelmas daisy)</li>
</ul>

<p>Our fantastic range of pollinator-friendly plants will bring butterflies and bees buzzing to your garden! Visit us today to find everything your garden needs for a great summer.</p>

Planting pollinator-friendly flowers

<p>If you wonder <strong>how to improve drainage in your lawn</strong>, you&rsquo;ll be pleased to know there are some ways that you can help the squelchy yard under your feet!</p>

<p>If you wonder <strong>how to improve drainage in your lawn</strong>, you&rsquo;ll be pleased to know there are some ways that you can help the squelchy yard under your feet! Many gardens have a problem with drainage, especially after heavy rain. It can be frustrating to see wet, muddy soil on your lawn, which can be a telltale sign of a drainage problem. Often, the ground underneath the grass wasn&rsquo;t prepared properly, which has resulted in a soggy lawn.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Spiking your lawn</h2>

<p>Sometimes also called pricking the lawn, it involved spiking holes into the property to allow better drainage. A garden fork can do this, but there are also tools specific for the job that will make deeper holes allowing even better drainage. Do your whole lawn and if any gaps are big, put in some sand. You can also buy shoes with spikes and stomp over your yard to aerate it.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Remodelling your garden</h2>

<p>It&rsquo;s a drastic measure, but if you have a lousy drainage problem, it could be easier to switch up your garden. Areas that are particularly prone to poor drainage could be replaced with raised beds, filled with soil and planted with plants of your choice. Consider it to be an opportunity for something new in the garden! Other ways are to consider removing the lawn and replacing it with a shingle or bark chip.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Improve drainage</h2>

<p>If you are not pulling your hair out at waterlogged soil most of the year, you could make improvements by simply planting more plants in your garden and incorporating lots of well-rotted organic matter into your flower beds. This helps soil structure and drainage, which will mean some of the excess water will have somewhere to go.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Managing the issue</h2>

<p>There are ways to make sure the water runs off to a place where you want it&mdash;for example, an area where there are bog plants which will love the rainwater to grow. You would need to make a gully, so the water runs from where it usually collects to where you want it to go. This can be tricky but doable.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Keeping your garden healthy</h2>

<p>Not just keeping your lawn in good health and your whole garden will help improve drainage.&nbsp;Here are a few tips you can consider:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Apply lots of mulch,</li>
	<li>Use an organic lawn feed,</li>
	<li>Plant water-friendly garden plants.</li>
</ul>

<p>See if the lawn improves over time. If it doesn&#39;t, please ask for advice at our garden centre.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For lawn seed, tools and advice, come and visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to improve drainage in your lawn

<p>If you&rsquo;re <strong>new to vegetable growing</strong>, here are some tips to get you started.</p>

<p>Nothing beats the taste of your own <strong>home-grown vegetables</strong>, fresh-picked and still warm from the sun. You don&rsquo;t even need a garden to grow your own food &ndash; many vegetables will grow happily in a pot on a patio or balcony, and you can even grow salad and herbs on a sunny windowsill. If you&rsquo;re new to vegetable growing, here are some tips to get you started.</p>

<h2>Soil and sunlight</h2>

<p>First, think about how much sun your garden, patio or balcony gets during an average summer&rsquo;s day. Most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sun per day, but you can still grow vegetables in a shady garden if you choose the right ones.</p>

<p>Next, get to know your soil. If you&rsquo;re planting vegetables in the ground, you need to know whether your soil is light sandy, heavy clay or somewhere in between.&nbsp; Dig a hole with a trowel and take a handful of the soil you&rsquo;ve dug up. Dampen it with water and try to roll it between your palms. Sandy soils feel gritty and won&rsquo;t stick together, while clay soils are sticky when wet and can be easily moved into a thin sausage shape. You can also test your soil pH (its acidity or alkalinity) with a soil test kit &ndash; these are readily available and easy to use.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Vegetable gardening tools</h2>

<p>All jobs are more manageable when you have the right tools. Here&rsquo;s a short list of some of the most useful garden tools for vegetable growers:&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>A garden spade and fork with long, sturdy&nbsp;handles for digging over your beds to clear weeds and stones before planting and digging in organic matter such as farmyard manure to improve the soil.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>A hand fork for weeding.</li>
	<li>A hand trowel for digging small holes when planting out seedlings.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Gardening gloves to protect your hands.</li>
	<li>A watering can or a hose (depending on the size of your garden) to keep your plants watered during dry spells.</li>
	<li>Snips or secateurs for harvesting your crops.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Choosing which vegetables to grow</h2>

<p>Once you know your soil type and how much sun your garden gets, it&rsquo;s time to decide what to grow. Choose vegetables that are suited to your garden&rsquo;s conditions, so you&rsquo;re more likely to get vigorous, healthy plants and a good harvest. And remember, there&rsquo;s no point in growing many vegetables that no one likes, so focus on growing the vegetables you enjoy eating.</p>

<p><strong>Vegetables for pots:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Tomato &lsquo;Tumbling Tom&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Dwarf runner bean &lsquo;Hestia&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Dwarf French beans &lsquo;Purple Teepee&rsquo; and &lsquo;Safari&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Salad leaves</li>
	<li>Early potatoes</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Vegetables for part shade:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Chard</li>
	<li>Kale</li>
	<li>Leeks</li>
	<li>Lettuce</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Vegetables for clay soils:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>French beans</li>
	<li>Cabbage</li>
	<li>Pumpkins</li>
</ul>

<p><strong>Vegetables for sandy soils:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Carrots</li>
	<li>Beetroot</li>
	<li>Radishes</li>
</ul>

<p>Visit our centre and get your vegetable garden started today! We have a fantastic range of vegetable seeds and plants, and our friendly staff are always happy to help and advise.</p>

A beginner’s guide to growing vegetables

<p>We have picked our <strong>top ten flowers to succeed in hanging baskets</strong> with a few surprises. Discover them now!&nbsp;</p>

<p>The <strong>best flowers to grow in a hanging basket</strong>&nbsp;are questions we have been asked many times. You can plant up your baskets at this time of year, make sure the new plants are hardened off and protected from any late frosts, and then hang them somewhere that you can enjoy looking at them as they grow and flower. We have picked our top ten flowers to succeed in hanging baskets with a few surprises. Discover them now!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Top 10 fantastic flowers to grow in hanging baskets</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Petunia</strong><br />
	The Petunia is the most popular flower to grow in hanging baskets, and there is no wonder why! Petunias are easy to hold, come in many colours and patterns, and bloom for months throughout summer. They will need full sun, good quality compost, water retention granules, and a weekly feed in summer. Deadhead them to prolong blooming.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Surfinia</strong><br />
	A hybrid of the Petunia and therefore requiring the same conditions, the difference is they mainly trail more than Petunias but don&rsquo;t produce seed. If you mix and match the colours of Petunias with Surfinias, you will get a mass of colour.</li>
	<li><strong>Lobelia</strong><br />
	Annual Lobelia trails effortlessly over the edges of a hanging basket and can be found in blue, pink and white for a cascade of colours. They do not like the cold or dry soil, so keep your baskets well-watered.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Lysimachia (Creeping Jenny)&nbsp;</strong><br />
	An unfussy evergreen perennial that survives winter and hangs over the edges of a basket with its gold and yellow leaves. The only thing to consider is that it will eventually take over the whole basket but can easily be divided and planted somewhere else.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Calibrachoa (Million Bells)&nbsp;</strong><br />
	Think of these as mini Petunias. They have smaller flowers with masses of colour. They are available in many different colours and can fill a hanging basket independently.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Geranium&nbsp;</strong><br />
	Another popular choice with many different colours available. They add beautiful pops of colour to baskets and can be treated the same as other bedding plants.</li>
	<li><strong>Nemesia</strong><br />
	Nemesia has some of the most incredible fragrances, is very sweet and can easily be caught in the breeze as you walk by. Pretty tiny flowers in various colours, sometimes even two-tone.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Nasturtium&nbsp;</strong><br />
	These are easy to grow from seed or plug plants, and the whole plant is edible. So if you are looking for a hanging basket with plenty of brightly coloured flowers that you can eat, Nasturtiums are the ones to grow.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Strawberry</strong><br />
	Strawberry flowers are so pretty, and the plants grow well in hanging baskets. Just pinch a strawberry as you walk by!&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Tumbling tomato</strong><br />
	Another edible for a hanging basket. Both the pretty little yellow flowers are lovely to see, but there&rsquo;s nothing more exciting than watching the red fruit grow.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>Visit us in the store to fill your hanging baskets with colourful flowers.</p>

Best flowers to grow in a hanging basket

<p>Find out <strong>everything about hydrangeas</strong> and start growing them yourself.</p>

<p>Did you know hydrangeas are perfect for a shady border with bold foliage and big flowerheads? If you&rsquo;re looking for a plant with a significant impact, you can&rsquo;t beat a hydrangea. Their rounded shape and bold foliage make an excellent backdrop for other plants, and they have their starring moment in late summer when the eye-catching flowerheads appear.&nbsp;Hydrangeas are easy to care for, and they&rsquo;re perfect for lighting up a shady corner of the garden. Find out <strong>everything about hydrangeas</strong> and start growing them yourself.</p>

<h2>How to grow hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Hydrangeas do best in moist, well-drained soil in dappled shade. Macrophylla hydrangeas (mopheads and lacecaps) have a unique party trick up their sleeves &ndash; the flowers change colour depending on soil pH (acidity or alkalinity). When grown in acidic soil, their flowers turn blue, producing pink flowers in alkaline soil. White-flowered hydrangeas are the exception, as their flowers don&rsquo;t change colour with soil pH.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Types of hydrangea</h2>

<p>Whatever your situation, there&rsquo;s sure to be a hydrangea to suit. Here&rsquo;s a quick overview of the most common hydrangea types:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea macrophylla</strong>: this includes both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas. Mophead hydrangeas have rounded flowerheads, while lacecaps have flatter flowerheads with a centre of tiny flowers surrounded by an outer ring of open florets. The flowerheads can be red, pink, blue or white.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata</strong>: These are generally large shrubs with conical flowerheads in late summer. In some varieties, the flowerheads gradually change colour over the season.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea arborescens</strong>: these have huge domed flowerheads and are spectacular in full flower. Hydrangea &lsquo;Annabelle&rsquo; is the best-known variety of this species, with enormous rounded white flowerheads.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Climbing hydrangeas</strong> (Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris and Hydrangea seemannii) are excellent for a shady wall. They can take a couple of years to get going but eventually cover a large area.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Landscaping ideas for hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Hydrangeas have a fabulous presence on the border, and they flower for a long time in mid and late summer. Here are a few ideas on where to place your hydrangeas for the best effect:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Hydrangeas add both texture and architectural interest to borders with their large round flowers, making a good contrast with more delicate perennials or ornamental grasses.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Mophead hydrangeas are compact enough to be grown in a large container. Place a couple in pots on a patio to brighten up a shady seating area.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Brightly coloured pink or blue hydrangeas make an excellent focal point in a pot on a patio. They also look good repeated through a mixed border to give a feeling of continuity to the planting.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add white-flowered hydrangeas to a shady corner of the garden to add light and interest all through summer.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Hydrangeas are perfect for filling a space in a border, growing quickly into neat, rounded shrubs. The dry flowerheads last a long time and can be left on the plants over winter to add interest. They also make excellent cut flowers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>Our centre has a fantastic selection of hydrangeas and other shade-loving plants. Come in and see our great range!</p>

Landscaping with hydrangeas

<p>There are many different <strong>Sunflowers</strong> varieties available in colours you might not be expecting. Find out more.</p>

<p>Knowing <strong>how to grow Sunflowers</strong> will mean you can have giant, beautiful sunflowers bringing so much joy to your garden every year. They are easy to grow and, therefore, great to grow with kids in the garden, but they are perfect for pollinators, and you can even harvest the seeds to sow the following year. Why not compete between your friends to see who can grow the tallest Sunflower or even the most unusual. There are many different varieties available in colours you might not be expecting.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Sow and care guide to growing Sunflowers&nbsp;</h2>

<p>As you would expect, Sunflowers need plenty of suns! As they grow, you will notice how they turn towards the sun absorbing the rays. You can sow seeds in modules or small pots during early spring protected from frosts or wait and plant them directly in the ground where they will grow when all frosts have passed. Keep the soil moist, and you should see good germination rates. The stems can get tall fast and start to curl or lay down if they aren&rsquo;t supported, so use a small cane and gently replace it with something more sturdy as they grow taller. Some will support themselves, but in strong winds, they can fall. They are very easy to grow, keep them watered, especially in dry spells and enjoy their sunny faces.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to grow different varieties of Sunflowers</h2>

<p>Many varieties aren&rsquo;t all yellow. The bright yellow is the most traditional, but you can also try orange, black and even pink! Some Sunflowers have been bred to grow in a pot and will only reach a couple of feet tall, whereas other giant varieties can easily reach 15ft. Some of our favourites and most popular are:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Titan&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;American Giant&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Little Becka&rsquo;&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Teddy Bear&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Sunflower &lsquo;Moulin Rouge&rsquo;&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Growing Sunflowers and how to use them</h2>

<p>Sunflowers are edible from roasting the entire Sunflower head with some oil drizzled over to roasting just the seeds or sprinkling them on food. Sunflower petals are lovely in salads, and the tiny shoots can be grown as microgreens to add to soups, smoothies and stews.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Encourage wildlife by growing Sunflowers</h2>

<p>The prominent seedheads are a magnet for bees. You will often find more than one bee sharing the nectar at the same time. You&rsquo;ll see ladybirds and butterflies and many winter birds feasting on the seeds if you leave seedbeds on over the winter period for winter interest.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Choose your perfect Sunflowers to grow with our range of seeds in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow Sunflowers

<p>It is great to get creative with vertical spaces and use every part of the garden, patio or balcony to make it your very own <strong>small space</strong>, a plant-filled haven.&nbsp;</p>

<p>With so many <strong>ideas for small gardens</strong>, you can still grow an abundance of fruit, vegetables, cut flowers and have all of the accessories and fun of a more extensive garden. There is no need to feel restricted by space because many plants grow well in containers - even some fruit trees. It is great to get creative with vertical spaces and use every part of the garden, patio or balcony to make it your very own small space, a plant-filled haven.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Growing in pots, containers and hanging baskets</h2>

<p>The go-to for smaller spaces may be to grow a container garden. This is particularly good for patios and balconies or tricky spots. We recommend grouping containers with taller pots and bigger plants at the back and annual or trailing plants towards the front like in a border. The great thing about this is you can shuffle them around and replant annuals for each season, so your container garden always has some interest. Don&rsquo;t forget to use hanging baskets to grow fruit and vegetables. Strawberries and tumbling tomatoes will look great and provide you with some products.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Ideas for small gardens with vertical space&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Why not create your own green wall? There are hangers with pockets that you can line up together and plant with herbs and your favourite plants to build a green fence perfect for you and wildlife. You can also recycle guttering and layer them along walls or fences to grow salads in. There are many different types of containers or pots that will hang on fence panels and balcony railings to use every space you can. You could also try growing in a vertical growing tower filled with lots of salads and greenery.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Furniture and accessory ideas for small gardens&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Big furniture in small spaces can take up too much room, so a smaller patio or bistro set or table and chairs or a bench will fit in perfectly. Why not hang up some solar-powered lights as well to bring some evening glow to the garden and open up the space. Other furniture could include fitted benches around the edges with storage underneath or a swinging egg chair placed in a sunny corner.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Ideas for small gardens that may surprise you&nbsp;</h2>

<p>One way to make your space look bigger is to use a mirror. Not only can they look incredible, but they really open up the space. Light colours will also open up a space, so a light-coloured fence or wall paint will help. If you really want to entertain and have a BBQ but there is nowhere to store it afterwards, try a fitted BBQ or even a small pizza oven. The options are endless!&nbsp;</p>

<p>Create a thriving small space with plants, furniture and accessories when you visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

Ideas for small gardens

<p>Help your <strong>kids develop green fingers with these fun gardening activities</strong>!</p>

<p>Gardening is great for children, letting them learn about nature and their environment while developing practical skills. Help your <strong>kids develop green fingers with these fun gardening activities</strong>!</p>

<h2>Garden activities for children</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Sunflowers are spectacular and easy to grow from seed, and children will enjoy seeing whose sunflower will grow the tallest. For really tall sunflowers, sow Sunflower &lsquo;Mammoth&rsquo;, &lsquo;High Hopes&rsquo; or &lsquo;Tall Timbers&rsquo;.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant seed potatoes. This needs a bit of patience as they take at least three months before they&rsquo;re ready to harvest, but in the meantime, kids can keep watching for shoots to appear and earthing up the plants, plus there&rsquo;s all the fun of digging up the potatoes later on.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow fast-growing seeds in the shape of your child&rsquo;s initials so that they can enjoy the effect when the seedlings appear. Radishes and salad leaves are quick to germinate and can be left to grow for a tasty harvest.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Track your garden snails. Go out in the evening armed with a bucket and a bottle of correction fluid or nail polish and gather all the snails you can find. Mark the shells with correction fluid or nail polish, then dispose of the snails somewhere outside your garden. Over the next few days, watch to see whether any of your snails return.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Small children love to water plants. Please give them a small watering can or make one out of a plastic bottle with holes poked into the lid. Just keep an eye on things to make sure no plants get drowned by over-enthusiastic watering!</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Get the kids onto pest control duty, wiping aphids off plants and picking cabbage white caterpillars off brassicas. It&rsquo;s a great way to learn about bugs and the garden&#39;s ecosystem.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make a seed bomb. You&rsquo;ll need powdered clay from a craft shop, wildflower seeds, and peat-free compost. Mix 1 cup of seeds, 5 cups of compost and 2-3 cups of clay powder. Add water gradually, mixing the ingredients until they stick together. Roll the mixture into balls and leave them to dry. Once the seed bombs are dry, you can all have fun throwing them where you want your wildflowers to sprout up!</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make cress heads. Wash out empty yoghurt pots, remove the labels and paint faces onto the pots. Fill the pots with damp cotton wool, scatter cress seeds over the top of the cotton wool and gently press them down. Place the pots on a sunny windowsill. The cress &lsquo;hair&rsquo; will appear in a few days and can be snipped off to add to sandwiches or scattered over soups.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make a log pile. Gather any stray logs and twigs in your garden and pile them up in some dappled shade. Keep an eye on the pile over the year, and you should be able to spot beetles, woodlice and other wildlife making their homes there.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Visit our centre and get the whole family gardening with our fantastic range of garden tools, seeds and plants. It&rsquo;s a great day out!</p>

9 fun garden activities for kids

<p>This <strong>how-to grow herbs indoors</strong> <strong>advice</strong> will ensure you get the best from your herbs for the longest harvesting period you can and help to keep your herbs looking fresh and thriving indoors.</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to grow herbs indoors</strong> <strong>advice</strong> will ensure you get the best from your herbs for the longest harvesting period you can and help to keep your herbs looking fresh and thriving indoors. Growing herbs inside is both great if you have little or no space outside but also if you want to be able to harvest herbs as and when you are cooking without heading out into the garden every time, having some growing on the kitchen windowsill can be very convenient.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Which herbs to grow indoors</h2>

<p>We would always recommend that you choose the herbs you are most likely to use first. If you love chives on a salad start growing chives, or if you love to top your pizza with basil, start growing it so you can use it as much as you like. Then consider which will grow inside. There are very many herbs available that will grow indoors, however, there are a few that may not grow so well but it is still possible. They include sage, rosemary and thyme. Those that will grow really well inside are:</p>

<ul>
	<li>parsley,</li>
	<li>coriander,</li>
	<li>mint,</li>
	<li>oregano,</li>
	<li>chervil.</li>
</ul>

<p>Just give any herb a try and see how it grows.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Care tips for growing herbs indoors</h2>

<p>The key to growing herbs indoors is to know what each herb prefers in order to thrive. Most will do well on a sunny kitchen windowsill and some will need more water than others. Basil for example only needs to be watered when the soil is dry and the leaves have slightly started to wilt - that&#39;s the sign it&#39;s time. Others such as rosemary will need less water. All, however, will need well-drained soil and good air circulation. Don&rsquo;t forget to use the herbs. Harvesting them will help new growth and more herbs to harvest.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use your own grown herbs</h2>

<p>One of the best things about growing herbs is to benefit from all of the nutrition and flavour they give. From rosemary on a roast dinner to coriander on a curry, oregano in a bolognese and mint made into a cup of herbal tea. The options are endless and you can just snip some off each time you need to.</p>

<h2>How to&nbsp;propagate herbs</h2>

<p>Herbs are generally very easy to propagate. Rosemary can be propagated by cuttings and basil and mint can be propagated by simply snipping some stems and popping them in water. It&rsquo;s great to see the roots growing and when they are strong enough plant them up for more herb plants. Others such as coriander or even chamomile can be allowed to go to seed and you can collect the seeds to sow all over again.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a large range of herbs in store and our friendly team are happy to advise you.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow herbs indoors

<p>Fancy eating fruit picked fresh from your own balcony? Find out which fruits grow best in pots and <strong>how to make the most of your balcony garden</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Imagine picking and eating your own fresh fruit straight from your balcony garden. It&rsquo;s perfectly possible to do &ndash; many fruit trees and bushes grow well in pots and look beautiful and taste delicious. Here&rsquo;s <strong>how to grow your own fruit on your balcony</strong>.</p>

<h2>Tips for balcony gardening</h2>

<p>When gardening on a balcony, there are a few things to bear in mind:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Pots filled with wet soil can be weighty, so take care not to overload your balcony. Lightweight plastic or fibreglass pots are a better bet than heavy terracotta, provided they are securely fixed down and won&rsquo;t blow around.</li>
	<li>Most fruit needs at least 6 hours of sun per day, but there are also fruits which will do well on a shady balcony, like alpine strawberries, gooseberries and blackcurrants. Look at how much sun your balcony gets and choose the fruits that will grow best there.</li>
	<li>Balconies are often windy, so put up a windbreak to protect your plants. Bamboo cane screening fixed to the balcony railings in the direction of the prevailing wind (usually the west-facing side) is ideal.</li>
	<li>Look for clever space-saving solutions like balcony planters that hook over balcony railings.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Balcony gardens and pollination</h2>

<p>All plants need to be pollinated to produce fruit. Some fruits need to be pollinated by a different variety of that fruit, while others are self-fertile. Since space is limited on a balcony, plant self-fertile fruit varieties wherever possible, it&rsquo;s also worth having a few flowering plants to attract bees and other pollinators to your balcony garden. Coastal and Mediterranean plants such as sea thrift, lavender and thyme cope well with exposed conditions on balconies and are great for attracting pollinators.</p>

<h2>Fruit to grow on balconies</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Strawberries are easy to grow in pots and look good even when the strawberry harvest is over. Look for new varieties like the &lsquo;Summer Breeze&rsquo; range with colourful flowers and a very long harvest period.</li>
	<li>Ballerina apples are ideal for pots with their very upright shape, and fruits held on short side stems off the main trunk. However, they are not self-fertile, so you&rsquo;ll need a second apple tree or crab apple nearby to allow for pollination. Apple trees need at least 6 hours of sun a day to do well.</li>
	<li>Blueberries need acidic soil, so they&rsquo;re ideal for pots filled with ericaceous compost. Their white spring flowers and beautiful autumn foliage give them added appeal. If you only have space for one plant, choose a self-fertile variety like &lsquo;Bluecrop&rsquo; or &lsquo;Sunshine Blue&rsquo; but if possible, grow two different types for a better harvest.</li>
	<li>Gooseberries will grow well in a large pot filled with loam-based compost, and they can cope with some shade.&nbsp; They&rsquo;re self-fertile, so you only need one plant for a good harvest.</li>
</ul>

<p>With our superb range of soft fruit and fruit trees to choose from, you&rsquo;ll soon be harvesting your own delicious fresh fruit. Visit us soon to get your balcony garden started!</p>

How to grow fruit on your balcony

<p>These <strong>artificial grasses to grow</strong> can bring something extra to your home and garden.</p>

<p>These <strong>artificial grasses to grow</strong> can bring something extra to your home and garden. When it isn&rsquo;t possible to grow other plants, artificial plants can step in to green up the most difficult of places where you want there to be greenery. From dark, shady indoor corners to lawns that get ruined by pets and parties! There is always a way to add some green to your home with artificial grasses to soften the look or for practical reasons.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Artificial lawns</h2>

<p>If you cannot keep a lawn in good shape for various reasons, you have the option of an artificial lawn. There are hard-wearing, flatter type grass style lawns that can be laid directly onto concrete or lawns with artificial grass that is a little longer and more luxurious. It can be laid onto the soil, but there are some environmental impacts to consider, from wildlife living underneath being impacted to how to dispose of it when it needs replacing.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Indoor artificial plants</h2>

<p>Do you have a spot in your home where nothing will grow? Have you tried the trusted Sansevieria, and still no good? You&rsquo;ll be pleased to know many different and aesthetically pleasing plants can be grown in the home and are suitable anywhere! The range of artificial plants, including grasses, is broad, and many look so much like the real thing the neighbours would never know! Grasses that look precisely like Miscanthus Sinensis &lsquo;Zebrinus&rsquo;, Pampus, Bullrush and Carex can look great inside or outside.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Artificial grasses to grow outside&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Just like indoors, there may be areas of your garden where you can&rsquo;t see to get plans to grow. Why not have stunning artificial grass in a pot? Or perhaps you don&rsquo;t have enough time to keep pots looking perfect, and a synthetic grass container will bring something extra to your patio. Try a big, spikey Cordyline for interest in a big pot or a large Pennisetum grass for a stunning effect.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Artificial grasses need some care&nbsp;</h2>

<p>While there will be far less care than the real plant, artificial grasses will need some looking after.</p>

<ul>
	<li>For a lawn, you may need to wash it down with a hose as and when required, sweep away leaves and for smaller properties, even give it a hoover.</li>
	<li>Artificial grasses in pots, either inside or outside, will need to be cleaned once in a while to get rid of dust and debris to ensure they look their best for as many years as possible.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>Check out our options for artificial grasses to fill your tricky spot.&nbsp;</p>

Artificial grasses to grow

<p>May&rsquo;s such a beautiful month for gardening, with warm spring weather and plants bursting into bloom. Read our <strong>15 gardening tips for May</strong>.</p>

<p>May&rsquo;s a beautiful month to get out into the garden, with spring in full bloom and everything bursting back into life.&nbsp; Here are our <strong>15&nbsp;gardening tips for May</strong> to get your garden looking its best for summer.</p>

<h2>May&#39;s 15&nbsp;gardening tips</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Plant summer bedding in pots, windowboxes and hanging baskets to add instant colour to patios and front steps. In colder areas of the country, wait until the end of the month to avoid any last cold snaps.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once the leaves of spring bulbs like daffodils, bluebells and tulips have died back, cut them off at ground level. Lift and divide overgrown clumps of spring bulbs.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow annuals like sunflowers, poppies and cornflowers outdoors for a fantastic summer display.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow courgettes, runner beans and French beans in pots in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill for planting out next month.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Earth up potatoes to keep the tubers covered &ndash; if they are exposed to sunlight, they will turn green and become toxic. Plant them this month if you still have any maincrop seed potatoes.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pot your tomato seedlings into larger pots, but wait until the end of the month to plant tomatoes outdoors, and remember to harden them off first.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow basil seeds in pots on a sunny windowsill for a constant supply of tasty leaves all through summer. You can also sow coriander outdoors now.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow a new batch of salad leaves every couple of weeks for fresh salads throughout summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It&rsquo;s not too soon to start sowing your winter vegetables! Sow kale in pots in the greenhouse and parsnips and Brussels sprouts directly outdoors where they are to grow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make the best use of your water by watering plants in the early mornings or the evenings, constantly watering the earth, not the foliage. Install a waterbutt to collect rainwater and use this for watering &ndash; it&rsquo;s perfect for plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep on top of weeds, especially in the vegetable garden. Run a Dutch hoe over the ground to clear annual weeds on dry days. Perennial weeds with long taproots, like docks and dandelions, can be tackled with a hand fork or dandelion grubber.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Take care when trimming hedges &ndash; always check that there are no birds nesting in the hedge before you start cutting. Remember, it&rsquo;s illegal to disturb nesting birds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once they&#39;ve finished flowering, prune spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia, Japanese quince, flowering currants and choisya to keep them looking neat.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now that the frosts are over, it&rsquo;s time to prune Group 1 clematis like Clematis montana and Clematis armandii that flower early in the year. Cut back as needed to keep them to size.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water container plants regularly even if it rains, as their foliage often stops the rainwater from reaching the compost. Feed them fortnightly with a balanced liquid feed.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re sowing, planting or planning for great summer garden parties, visit our centre, and you&rsquo;ll find everything you need!</p>

15 gardening tips for May

<p>Houseplants are pot grown, and therefore, the compost will run out of nutrients very quickly, so adding the feed to your watering regime is needed to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need to grow.</p>

<p>Time to <strong>feed your houseplants</strong>, so get prepared with everything you need to make sure your houseplants are ready for the boost to burst into active growth throughout late spring and the summer months. Many houseplants need less water and no feeding over the colder months of the year, but as soon as the weather heats up, you&#39;ll know it&#39;s time to start watering more and feeding your plants. This will help to keep them healthy.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>When to feed your houseplants</h2>

<p>Houseplants are pot grown, and therefore, the compost will run out of nutrients very quickly, so adding the feed to your watering regime is needed to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need to grow. Average potting soil holds enough nutrients for around six weeks. After this time, you&#39;ll need to add plant food every four to six weeks in spring and summer. If you don&#39;t feed your houseplants, they tend to underachieve. Give them&nbsp;regular&nbsp;health boosts to show lush, attractive foliage. Flowering houseplants need more food than foliage plants.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Know what is in the bottle before you feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>All houseplant feed will contain:</p>

<ul>
	<li>nitrogen (N)</li>
	<li>phosphorus (P)</li>
	<li>potassium (K)</li>
</ul>

<p>The balance of these makes the feed right for your plants. Always check the label on any houseplant feed you are looking to purchase to check if these three are on the label. You will also see varying levels of other minerals such as calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and chlorine (Cl).&nbsp;</p>

<h2>What houseplant feed to use to feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Depending on what plants you feed, there are slight variations in the food you need. There are good all-round plant fertilisers that will benefit all plants but knowing a little more in-depth can help you make the right decision. If you have houseplants that are all foliage, the feed you choose could be higher in nitrogen, which will help the plant produce lush foliage. If you have an indoor plant that flowers and fruits, a tomato feed can be beneficial as it is high in potassium. &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;</p>

<h2>Feed your houseplants and know which need feeding</h2>

<p>You can feed orchids with a special Orchid feed found in the store. Always follow the instructions. Cacti won&#39;t need feed, but they might flower and will grow quicker if you do. Houseplants that prefer acidic soil, such as African Daisies, will require an ericaceous fertiliser, and carnivorous plants won&#39;t need any extra feed at all. Most other houseplants can be fed with a general houseplant feed.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many different types of feeds and a few different ways of feeding. Diluted liquid feed in water is easy and can just be added to your regular watering rota. Generally, adding plant feed into the water every two weeks will be enough but always read the instructions and recommendations. There are also pelleted feeds, and slow-release drip feeds that can be useful when away from home.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have houseplants and fertilisers in store, visit us and add to your collection.</p>

Feed your houseplants

<p>Here are our <strong>top tips for April lawn care</strong>.</p>

<p>Winter can be tough on lawns, so as the weather warms up and the days get brighter, it&rsquo;s good to pay your lawn some attention to get it back into shape for the summer. Here are our <strong>top tips for April lawn care</strong>.</p>

<h2>Lawn care tips for April</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Consider mowing less often for a more wildlife-friendly lawn, and leave your lawnmower blades on a higher setting. This allows low-growing plants like self-heal, buttercups, clover and other wildflowers to thrive, providing pollen for bees and other pollinators. If you prefer the look of a neatly mown lawn, why not leave a small area unmown as a wildlife haven?</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>For short turf, start mowing more regularly this month as the grass begins to grow again after winter. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and don&rsquo;t mow when the grass is wet. It&rsquo;s often best to mow in the afternoons to give the dew time to dry off in the mornings. Initially, trim with the lawnmower blades on a high setting, gradually moving to a lower setting as the growing season progresses.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give your lawn a boost after winter with a proprietary spring lawn feed. This will contain a balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to promote the growth of strong, healthy grass that can out-compete weeds and moss.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>As the grass starts to grow, lawn weeds like dandelions and docks will begin to appear too. Keep on top of them by digging them out by hand (there are special tools available to help tackle dandelions and other weeds with long taproots). If there are too many weeds to tackle by hand, wait until next month and treat them with a lawn weedkiller. It&rsquo;s best to wait at least two weeks after feeding the lawn to apply weedkiller.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Tackle moss in your lawn by raking it with a spring tine rake. If necessary, you can apply moss killer (always following the manufacturer&rsquo;s instructions) and rake out the dead moss once the moss killer has taken effect. Dead moss takes a long time to break down, so it&rsquo;s best not to add it to a compost heap.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If your lawn has bare patches, now&rsquo;s the time to tackle them. It&rsquo;s now also ideal to sow seed for new lawns, as the soil has started to warm up. Before sowing, prepare your soil by breaking it up with a garden fork and raking it over to produce a level surface with a fine, crumbly texture. Sow the seed and lightly rake it in. You may need to net the area after sowing to stop birds from eating all your grass seed! If there is no rain for a couple of days, water the site using a sprinkler or a watering can with a fine rose.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Our range of lawn care tools, feed and seed, will have your lawn looking lush and inviting this summer, so visit our centre soon!</p>

6 lawn care tips for April

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for April</strong>.</p>

<p>It&rsquo;s April, and all around us, the garden is bursting back into life! As spring gets underway, now&rsquo;s the perfect time to get outdoors and get your garden into shape for the coming year. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for April</strong>.</p>

<h2>15 gardening tips for April</h2>

<ol>
	<li>Get your vegetable beds ready for the year by clearing them of weeds and digging in garden compost or well-rotted farmyard manure. This will improve soil structure, retain moisture in dry summers and help soil drain better in wet years.</li>
	<li>As roses, shrubs and trees start to put on new growth, scatter a slow-release general purpose fertiliser around the base and rake in. Follow this with a layer of mulch such as well-rotted farmyard manure or garden compost.</li>
	<li>Lawns will be starting to grow now too, so give them a boost with a high-nitrogen feed, and use a garden fork or hollow-tine aerator to aerate compacted areas. April&rsquo;s also a good time to sow seed or lay turf for new lawns.</li>
	<li>Tie in any stray long shoots of climbing roses, honeysuckle and clematis. To encourage climbing roses to produce plenty of flowers, tie shoots so that they lie as close to horizontal as possible.</li>
	<li>Now&rsquo;s your chance to put in plant supports for tall perennials like asters, sanguisorba and verbena, so that plants can be trained through the supports as they grow (much easier than trying to fit them in once the plants have grown to full size and are flopping everywhere).</li>
	<li>Lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials like daylilies and hostas, and plant new perennials and shrubs to fill gaps in the border.</li>
	<li>Once the frosts have passed, prune penstemons. If there&rsquo;s new growth at the base of the plant, cut just above it, otherwise prune to just above the lowest new shoots.</li>
	<li>Prune spring-flowering plants like forsythia and Japanese quince (Chaenomeles) once they have finished flowering.</li>
	<li>Hard prune shrubby dogwoods (Cornus sibirica, C. sanguinea and C. alba) to encourage them to produce brightly coloured shoots for next winter&rsquo;s display.</li>
	<li>Trim lavender, making sure not to cut into the old wood.</li>
	<li>Pinch out the growing tips of fuchsia and sweet pea seedlings to encourage bushy plants.</li>
	<li>Deadhead spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips, leave the foliage to die back naturally.</li>
	<li>Use a hoe or hand fork to keep beds clear of weeds as they appear.</li>
	<li>Sow hardy annuals like poppies, cornflower and nigella outdoors, and sow broad beans, carrots, beetroot and parsnips in the veg garden.</li>
	<li>Indoors, sow tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, pumpkins, runner beans and French beans, as well as nasturtiums, sunflowers and dahlias.</li>
</ol>

<p>Whether it&rsquo;s seeds, plants, tools or pots, we&rsquo;ve got everything you need to get your garden looking great. Visit our centre in %locations% to see what&rsquo;s in store this spring!<br />
&nbsp;</p>

15 gardening tips for April

<p><strong>Hydrangeas are easy to grow,&nbsp;</strong>just follow our simple tips.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Hydrangeas are back in style, and there&rsquo;s a fantastic range to choose from. There&rsquo;s one to suit every garden, from the classic pink and blue mopheads to paniculate hydrangeas with huge conical flowerheads. Hydrangeas flower for ages in late summer, they grow well in the shade, and their flowerheads keep on looking good even once they&rsquo;ve dried.&nbsp;<strong>Hydrangeas are easy to grow</strong> too &ndash; just follow our simple tips.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Hydrangea types</h2>

<p>To get the best out of your hydrangea, it&rsquo;s essential to know what type of hydrangea you have. Here are the most common types:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea macrophylla</strong> &ndash; these are the traditional mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, with pink, blue or white flowers. One of the most striking features of the pink and blue hydrangeas is that the flower colour changes depending on whether they are grown in acidic or alkaline soils. (Acidic soils produce blue flowers, and alkaline soils produce pink.) Mopheads have rounded flower heads made up of large florets. Lacecaps have flatter flowerheads with an inner centre of tiny florets surrounded by a ring of larger ones.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea arborescens</strong> have huge domed flowerheads with a more delicate appearance than the traditional mopheads. Hydrangea&rsquo; Annabelle&rsquo; is one of the most popular Hydrangea arborescens cultivars with its enormous white flowerheads.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata</strong> produces large conical flower heads that often change colour as they mature.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea quercifolia</strong> (oak-leaved hydrangea) has large lobed leaves very similar in shape to oak leaves. In autumn, the leaves turn dramatic shades of orange and red before falling.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea anomala (climbing hydrangea)</strong> is a self-clinging climber with white lace-cap flowers in summer.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Where to grow hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Hydrangeas do best in moist, well-drained soil in light shade. Dig in plenty of organic matter like garden compost or well-rotted farmyard manure before planting to help your soil retain moisture and water regularly in dry periods. There&rsquo;s usually no need to feed hydrangeas, but you should mulch in spring with leaf mould, compost or manure.</p>

<h2>How to prune hydrangeas</h2>

<p>Pruning hydrangeas doesn&rsquo;t have to be complicated. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas</strong>: leave the faded flower heads on the plant over winter and prune in late spring, cutting back to a pair of solid buds below the old flower heads. Remove any dead or crossing branches. To encourage new shoots on mature plants, cut one or two old stems back to ground level.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens</strong>: Prune in early spring, removing dead wood or crossing branches. Cut the previous year&rsquo;s stems by one third, cutting above a pair of strong buds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Climbing hydrangeas</strong>: There&rsquo;s no need to prune climbing hydrangeas for the first few years while they are getting going. Prune mature plants annually after flowering to keep them to size, shortening any very long shoots to healthy buds lower down.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Our centre has a great range of hydrangeas and other shrubs, so visit us soon in %locations% to pick your favourite!</p>

How to grow hydrangeas

<p>This <strong>how-to refresh compost in pots</strong> will ensure your container plants thrive all year round.</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to refresh compost in pots</strong> will ensure your container plants thrive all year round. Most container-grown plants, trees and shrubs will need some new compost each year or two to improve the compost structure in the pot, increase much-needed nutrients and ensure your plants can grow for many years in pots. It is easily done and gives your plants an enormous health boost. Here&rsquo;s how to refresh compost in pots.</p>

<h2>Tools you will need to refresh compost in pots&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Make sure you are well prepared to start working on your pots and have everything you need by your side, so once you get to work, everything is convenient and easy to do. You&rsquo;ll need a</p>

<ul>
	<li>a hand fork,</li>
	<li>some fresh compost,</li>
	<li>gardening gloves.</li>
</ul>

<p>Don&rsquo;t forget a watering can and pebbles for the top of the pot if required.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Types of composts</h2>

<p>You can use numerous types of compost, but we recommend using good quality multi-purpose, peat-free compost after you have refreshed the pot with the new compost.</p>

<h2>How to refresh compost in pots</h2>

<p>Just begin to loosen the compost in the pot from the surface roots and the edges of the pots with your hand fork. If you can also remove compost gently from around the root ball, that&rsquo;s a good idea so much of the old compost is removed and can be replenished. Then replenish the pot with your multi-purpose compost and from down as you add it around the root ball. Please make sure there are no air pockets around the roots and water it well. If you&rsquo;d like to add pebbles or gravel, spread a layer on top. It can be helpful to stop weed growth and retain moisture.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Refresh compost in pots and keep up the care&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Mainly, container plants will need more watering than plants growing in the ground because they will dry out quicker. Always check how much moisture is under the top few centimetres of compost and ensure the container is well watered. Feed will be necessary from spring throughout summer as the container plants will soon absorb the compost nutrients. Over winter, lifting pots onto pot feet can also help with drainage.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For compost, tools, containers and plants for pots, visit us in store and get your garden thriving.&nbsp;</p>

Refresh compost in pots

<p>We&rsquo;ve put together our <strong>top tips on sowing seeds</strong> and&nbsp;suggestions on <strong>planting the best seeds&nbsp;in March</strong>.</p>

<p>Growing flowers from seed is a fantastic way to fill your garden with colour at minimal costs. Now that spring has arrived, there are plenty of flower seeds to sow both indoors and directly outside to give you beds filled with blooms this summer. We&rsquo;ve put together our <strong>top tips on sowing seeds</strong> and&nbsp;suggestions on <strong>planting the best seeds&nbsp;in March</strong>.</p>

<h2>Tips on sowing seeds</h2>

<ul>
	<li>If it&rsquo;s been a very cold, wet spring, wait until the weather improves to sow outdoors, or start your seeds off indoors. As a rule of thumb, if the weeds are starting to grow, it&rsquo;s probably warm enough to sow hardy annuals outside.</li>
	<li>Before sowing seeds outdoors, it&rsquo;s important to prepare the ground. Dig over the soil, remove weeds and stones and rake the surface to produce a fine, crumbly texture ready for sowing.</li>
	<li>Getting the watering right is one of the most important aspects of growing plants from seed. Seeds sown outdoors need regular watering in dry periods. For seeds sown indoors, keep the compost moist, but remember that seeds don&rsquo;t enjoy sitting in sodden compost.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Seeds to sow indoors in March</h2>

<p>Many half-hardy and tender plants can be sown indoors now and will give you a fantastic display of colour in summer. Here are some seeds to sow indoors in March:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Half-hardy annuals like cosmos, cleome, antirrhinum (snapdragons), French marigolds and calendula (pot marigolds).</li>
	<li>Dahlia mixes - many are available as seeds and can be sown indoors now, giving a fabulous display in summer for very little cost.</li>
	<li>Climbing annuals like Thunbergia alata (Black-eyed Susan), Ipomoea lobata (Spanish Flag) and Ipomoea purpurea (Morning Glory) &ndash; these can be planted out as soon as the frosts are over and will quickly cover an obelisk, arch or pergola with their colourful flowers.</li>
	<li>In cold areas, sow sweet peas indoors in root trainers &ndash; toilet roll inner tubes work well, giving the long roots space to develop.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Seeds to sow outdoors in March</h2>

<p>As the weather improves and the soil warms up towards the end of the month, many hardy plants can be sown directly outdoors. Here are a few to try:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Hardy annuals, including Californian poppies, cornflowers, Nigella (love-in-a-mist) and sunflowers. March is also an excellent time to sow annual wildflower mixes.</li>
	<li>You can sow sweet peas directly outdoors this month in mild areas, provided there&rsquo;s no risk of frost.</li>
	<li>Nasturtiums are a great addition to any kitchen garden and can be sown outdoors from late March.</li>
	<li>If the weather is good, try sowing some night-scented stocks (Matthiola bicornis) in a sunny spot near a seating area to enjoy the delicious fragrance on long summer evenings.</li>
</ul>

<p>We have everything you need to start sowing, including pots, seed trays, compost and a fantastic range of seeds. Visit us today and get your flower garden started!</p>

Flower seeds to sow in March

<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood. When we take down the Christmas decorations, it can seem like the room feels bare, so if you&#39;d still like the space filled with greenery, these plants will do just that for you.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Top 10 Houseplants After Christmas</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Fiddle leaf (Ficus Lyrata</strong>): a&nbsp;well known and loved plant that is easy to look after, despite its reputation, with just a few hints and tips. Smaller plants can be purchased or taller ones to fill a space, and they will need to be kept away from drafts in a room with lots of light and kept moderately moist.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Snake plant (Sansevieria)</strong>: one of the easiest houseplants to care for that will fill a Christmas tree space with ease. It&#39;s the best for easy care with minimal watering requirements and not being fussy about light conditions.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata)</strong>: needing a bright spot and moist compost, but equally, you might find lower light levels suit it well and watering as and when might work too! This one can last for many, many years, so it&#39;s worth putting in the place of your Christmas tree.n&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla)</strong>: if you would like to swap your Christmas tree for another Christmas tree that will look very similar, try the Norfolk Island Pine. High humidity and lots of light will keep this in great shape all year.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Weeping fig (Ficus benjamin)</strong>: bright, indirect light and regular watering will keep this growing fast and looking pristine. Less water during the winter months will help, and your weeping fig will thank you for it.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia)</strong>: another plant that will gracefully fill a Christmas tree spot. The Bird of Paradise doesn&#39;t need much attention if standing in bright light, without drafts and some humidity. You might have to wait a few years until it flowers, but when it does, it will be well worth the wait!&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Devils Ivy (Pothos)</strong>: instead of filling the space with a standing upright plant, why not try filling the room with a plant hanging from the ceiling instead? Devils Ivy will hang nicely and fill a corner spot without much care needed.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)</strong>: the on-trend plant of the last few years will fill your Christmas tree spot with ease. Give it plenty of bright but not direct light and water every 1 to 2 weeks. Don&#39;t forget to dust the leaves to keep them looking shiny gently.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Ravenea rivularis (Majesty palm)</strong>: a&nbsp;majestic palm with long fronds that will fill the space perfectly. All it will need is a bright corner and plenty of water. Keep your eye on it so you can remedy any changes.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>African Milk Tree (Euphorbia trigona)</strong>: minor&nbsp;water requirements and light to low light levels will see this plant well and growing for years.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Find the perfect houseplant to fill your bare space from our collection in store.</p>

Top 10 Houseplants to Replace the Christmas Tree

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>

<p>The New Year is here, and it&rsquo;s time to get back out into the garden! The weather may still be wintry, but there&rsquo;s plenty to do in your greenhouse and even outdoors to get ready for a great spring and summer season. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>

<h2>15 gardening tips for January</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Provided the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged, now&rsquo;s a good time to plant bare-root shrubs, trees, roses and fruit bushes. Bare root plants are great value for money, perfect if you&rsquo;re planning to plant a new hedge or extend a shrub border.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you didn&rsquo;t plant snowdrop bulbs last autumn, buy some that are in flower and plant them now. Snowdrops establish much more quickly when planted &lsquo;in the green&rsquo; than bulbs.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back any old perennial stems and leaves that have gone soggy in the winter rains and add them to your compost heap.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut off any old tatty hellebore foliage and dispose of it. Getting rid of these leaves helps stop the spread of hellebore black spot (a fungal disease) and makes it easier to see the flowers. Leave the fresh new foliage to grow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep deadheading winter pansies, and they&rsquo;ll reward you with a flush of flowers in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you haven&rsquo;t pruned your climbing roses, you can still do it now, and it&rsquo;s easier to see what needs cutting when the plants are dormant.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now&rsquo;s also an excellent time to prune shrub roses before they start growing, removing all weak and spindly growth and cutting back main branches by one-third above an outward-facing bud.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune apple and pear trees, removing any dead, damaged or crossing branches and reducing congestion. Aim to create a tree with an open vase shape.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give wisteria its January pruning &ndash; cut back last year&rsquo;s shoots to 2-3 buds from the main framework.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Force rhubarb plants by covering them with a bucket. This will encourage the growth of delicious tender new stems for delicious desserts.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Tidy up the greenhouse and clean out all those old flower pots so that you&rsquo;re ready to go when it&rsquo;s time to sow seeds in spring.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Recycle your Christmas tree by putting it out for your local council collection, or chop it up and shred the branches to make mulch for your shrub borders.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep bird feeders and birdbaths topped up to see your garden birds through the last cold months of winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest the last of your parsnips and leeks for satisfying winter stews</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather&rsquo;s too cold and wet to go outside, get yourself a cup of tea, plan this year&rsquo;s vegetable crops and order your seeds. And don&rsquo;t forget to order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic bulbs for spring planting.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>We have a fantastic range of plants, seeds and gardening kits in our centres, so visit us soon and get your gardening year off to a great start!</p>

15 January gardening tips

<p>Here are a few <strong>guidelines on pruning shrubs and trees in winter</strong>.</p>

<p>Winter and early spring are often a good time to do a bit of pruning. When the trees are bare, it&rsquo;s easier to see their shape and work out which branches to remove. However, it&rsquo;s not the right time for pruning all plants, so it&rsquo;s always a good idea to check the specific requirements of your plants before you start. Here are a few <strong>guidelines on pruning shrubs and trees in winter</strong>.</p>

<h2>Basic pruning tips</h2>

<p>Remembering these few basic rules will keep you safe while you work and give you better results:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Make sure your tools are sharp &ndash; a clean cut will cause less damage to branches and heal faster, so there&rsquo;s less chance of your plants becoming infected by diseases.</li>
	<li>Work slowly and stand back frequently to look at what you&rsquo;ve done and assess what still needs removing.</li>
	<li>Take care when working at height. It&rsquo;s a good idea to have someone else with you when you&rsquo;re working on a ladder. And don&rsquo;t take risks &ndash; if the job is too big, call in a professional tree surgeon.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Pruning deciduous and evergreen shrubs</h2>

<p>Deciduous shrubs drop their leaves in autumn, storing food reserves in their roots over winter, ready for spring. This means that winter pruning tends to result in vigorous spring growth. However, some deciduous shrubs flower on the previous year&rsquo;s growth, so pruning these in winter would mean no flowers in the following year. As a general rule of thumb, deciduous shrubs that flower in spring (e.g. forsythia and Japanese quince) should be pruned straight after flowering. Shrubs that flower in late summer and autumn (e.g.hydrangea, buddleja and fuchsia) can usually be pruned in late winter or early spring. There are exceptions to every rule, though, so check the specific requirements of your plants before you get out your secateurs.</p>

<p>Evergreen shrubs are best pruned soon after they have finished flowering. Hard pruning of evergreens can usually be done in late winter or early spring, but as always, look the plant up first to check on pruning requirements.</p>

<h2>Five trees and shrubs to prune in winter or early spring</h2>

<ol>
	<li>Shrub roses &ndash; remove damaged and crossing branches and cut the main branches down by a third, just above an outward-facing bud.</li>
	<li>Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) don&rsquo;t need routine pruning, but if you need to remove a branch, do it in winter to avoid excessive &lsquo;bleeding&rsquo; of sap.</li>
	<li>Buddleja &ndash; cut back in early spring to solid buds about 30cm above ground level.</li>
	<li>Dogwoods (Cornus sanguinea and sericea) &ndash; cut back in early spring to 5-7.5cm (2-3in) above ground level to encourage brightly coloured new shoots for next winter.</li>
	<li>Apple trees &ndash; prune in winter, aiming to create a wineglass-shaped framework of branches.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>We have a wide range of pruning tools and other garden equipment in our centre, so visit us soon for all your gardening needs!</p>

Pruning trees and shrubs in winter

<p><strong>Protect your plants this winter</strong> with these top tips.</p>

<p>Many of the plants in our gardens have come to us from lands with kinder climates than our own. This allows our gardens to look like a tropical paradise in summer, but it also means that many of our plants need help to cope with cold weather. <strong>Protect your plants this winter</strong> with these top tips.</p>

<h2>How to protect your plants this winter</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>If you&rsquo;re not sure whether a plant needs winter protection, look it up. The Royal Horticultural Society has drawn up a hardiness rating system, classifying plants by the minimum temperature they can cope with. Fully hardy plants (classified as H5) are hardy down to -15&deg;C (5&deg;F). Frost-hardy plants (H3) are typically hardy down to -5C (23&deg;F) and will probably survive a light frost but are likely to need winter protection in all but mild areas. Tender plants (H2 and H1) will not survive temperatures below 0&deg;C (32&deg;F) and must be kept frost-free in winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>One of the biggest dangers for container plants in winter is the compost in the pots becoming waterlogged and possibly frozen. This will kill off even the hardiest plants, so any banks left outdoors over winter should be raised on pot feet to ensure they drain well. In very cold areas, it&rsquo;s also worth wrapping pots in bubble wrap or fleece for extra insulation.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Move tender plants indoors in winter. If they have lost their leaves and are entirely dormant, they can be stored in a frost-free shed, but evergreen plants will still need light and should be kept in a greenhouse or conservatory or on a sunny windowsill. Line your greenhouse windows with bubble wrap to insulate them and reduce the amount of electricity needed to heat the space.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cover winter crops like salad leaves, spinach and chard with cloches or horticultural fleece to allow you to keep harvesting.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>In mild areas of the country, apply a thick layer of mulch such as compost or leaf mould to protect tender bulbs like dahlias and gladioli through winter. In icy areas, it&rsquo;s best to dig them up once the first frost has killed the foliage and store them in a cool, dry, frost-free place over winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strong winter winds can damage plants, so tie in climbing plants and check stakes and tree ties are secure. Cut tall shrub roses down by a third to protect their roots against damage from wind rock.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Think long-term when choosing plants for your garden. Plants such as salvias, lavender, and rosemary from Mediterranean climates will struggle to survive winters in heavy clay soils. Improve drainage by digging in compost or other organic material before planting, or plant them in pots instead.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Let us help you get your garden ready for winter. Whether it&rsquo;s mulch, pot feet or winter plants you&rsquo;re after, you&rsquo;ll find all you need in our centre!</p>

7 ways to protect your plants in winter

<p>Follow our top <strong>15 gardening tips for December</strong> and get your garden ready for a great spring.</p>

<p>The garden might look a bit bare this month, but there are still crops to harvest, shrubs and bulbs to plant, and plans to make for next year when the weather permits. Follow our top <strong>15 gardening tips for December</strong> and get your garden ready for a great spring.</p>

<h2>Top gardening tips for December</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>As long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged, you can still plant in December, and it&rsquo;s an excellent time to plant deciduous hedging shrubs and bare-root roses.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>While you&rsquo;re planting shrubs, why not choose some for winter colour and scent? Christmas box (Sarcococca confusa), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and witch hazel (Hamamelis) all look and smell gorgeous at this time of year.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>There&rsquo;s still time to plant spring bulbs like crocuses, daffodils and tulips for masses of colourful flowers in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Wait until after the first frosts to harvest your parsnips, and they&rsquo;ll taste sweeter. Sprouts and winter cabbage should also be ready to harvest this month, just in time for the festive season.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Lift and divide large clumps of rhubarb to rejuvenate the plants and give you delicious desserts for years to come. Make sure each new section has an &lsquo;eye&rsquo; or large bud to provide next year&rsquo;s shoots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you need to prune Japanese maples, now&rsquo;s the time while they are dormant.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune climbing roses, removing any dead wood, tying in new shoots and cutting back flowered side shoots by two-thirds of their length.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once dahlia foliage has been blackened by frost, dig up the tubers. Cut off the stems, rinse off the soil, leave them to dry, then place them in trays filled with compost and store them in a cool, dry place over winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Rake fallen leaves off your lawn so that sunlight can reach the grass. Clear fallen leaves from beds, too, as they can shelter slugs and snails.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Raise your patio pots on pot feet to improve drainage and prevent waterlogging, which could kill plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Check that tree ties and stakes are secure and stand up to high winter winds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Top up bird feeders regularly with high-energy seeds and defrost frozen birdbaths so birds can drink and keep their feathers in good shape.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Don&rsquo;t make your garden too tidy this winter. Leave some dried flower stems standing to provide shelter for overwintering insects, and make a log pile in a hidden corner to give frogs, toads and beetles a home.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Get ready for next year&rsquo;s gardening. Clean your tools and get shears, secateurs and lawnmowers sharpened now while you have the time.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather&rsquo;s too cold for gardening, start planning next year&rsquo;s gardening. Settle down in an armchair with a cup of tea and your notebook, and let your imagination run wild!</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need for your garden (or just for the gardener in your life), you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre. Visit us soon to see what&rsquo;s in store now!</p>

15 garden tips for December

<p>One important gardening activity for the winter is to <strong>get your trees and shrubs planted</strong>. Here&rsquo;s why:</p>

<p>There are many reasons&nbsp;<strong>why winter is a great time to plant trees</strong>. It can seem like there isn&rsquo;t much to do in the garden during the colder winter months, but there is always a reason to get outside no matter what the weather is like when you have a garden. You might need to top up your bird feeders, break the ice on your pond for wildlife to get in and out or brush heavy snow off tree branches. One important gardening activity for the winter is to get your trees and shrubs planted. Here&rsquo;s why:</p>

<ol>
	<li>Bare root trees</li>
	<li>Heeling in</li>
	<li>Time to establish</li>
</ol>

<h2>Bare root availability is why winter is a great time to plant trees</h2>

<p>During the winter months, you will find not only many container-grown trees available, often at a sale price, but also bare root trees become available to purchase. Often these cost less because they don&rsquo;t have any soil around the roots and are therefore easy to transport and come without a pot. Bare root trees are planted when they are dormant, usually from November to March, and the roots may be denser as well plus, they are much easier to plant without the bigger rootball and pot.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why winter is a great time to plant trees is because you don&rsquo;t have to rush</h2>

<p>November to March is a long period, and as long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or overly wet, you have plenty of time to plant trees outside. While bare-root trees and shrubs need to be planted ideally within a week of purchase, they can be &lsquo;heeled&rsquo; in. So if you aren&rsquo;t quite ready to get planting where they will eventually grow, dig a trench and lay the roots into the trench with the stems up against the side, then backfill to cover the bases and water well. This means the tree will be protected and absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil instead of drying out. If you have container grown plants, they can stay in the container until ready, but don&rsquo;t let them dry out.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Providing time to establish is why winter is a great time to plant trees</h2>

<p>The soil is moist during the winter months, giving the roots just what they need to establish before the weather heats up. It is stressful for a tree to be freshly planted outside in the heat in the summer months, and it will need constant watering. So allowing it time to settle over winter is perfect. Energy will be directed towards the roots instead of leaf and bud formation and will grow substantially enough before spring and summer.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Shop our range of trees for winter planting in store.&nbsp;</p>

Why winter is a great time to plant trees

<p>We&rsquo;ve gathered together the latest research on <strong>growing plants in peat-free compost</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Peat-free composts</strong> are big news these days, as gardeners become increasingly aware of the importance of preserving our peat bogs. Fortunately, plenty of alternative composts work just as well and are far more sustainable than peat-based compost. We&rsquo;ve gathered together the latest research on growing plants in peat-free compost.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why use peat-free compost?</h2>

<p>Peat bogs are a very specialised ecosystem supporting a unique range of plants and wildlife. Peat &ndash; partially decayed vegetation from these peat bogs &ndash; is a vast carbon store and takes thousands of years to develop. Currently, gardeners use the equivalent of 24 million wheelbarrows of peat annually, so it is being used up far faster than it can possibly be replaced, destroying a precious resource as well as contributing to climate change. Because of this, research into alternative growing media has been going on for many years, and there are now plenty of good peat-free options available. Growing plants in these composts sometimes require changes to how we sow, water and feed plants, but the results can be just as good as increasing peat-based composts.</p>

<h2>Alternatives to peat-based composts</h2>

<p>Peat-free composts are usually a blend of different raw materials to achieve good drainage, nutrient retentiveness and water holding capacity. Here are some of the most common materials used:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Coir &ndash; a waste product from the coconut processing industry with good water-retaining ability. It is low in nutrients but makes a good seed compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Wool &ndash; wool-based composts drain well but need added nutrients from other sources. They are an excellent slow-release source of nitrogen.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted green waste &ndash; this is produced from green garden waste. Too rich to use on its own, it can be added to soil or other compost mixes to create potting compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted bracken &ndash; bracken compost is an effective use of this invasive plant which can be a problem to farmers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted bark &ndash; a by-product of the timber industry, with good drainage qualities.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Inorganic materials like grit, sharp sand and perlite are mixed with peat-free composts to improve the structure and allow good drainage.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Tips for growing plants in peat-free compost</h2>

<p>Peat-free composts often behave differently from traditional peat-based versions, so follow these tips to get the best from them.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Check the moisture levels in the compost with a fingertip to assess whether you need to change your watering regime. Coir-based composts can look dry on the surface even though they are still wet, so check before watering.</li>
	<li>Check the compost packaging information for details of any fertilisers required. Different composts have different nutrient levels, depending on what they are made from.</li>
	<li>Cheaper peat-free composts are likely to contain high levels of composted green waste, so they are best mixed with soil rather than used on their own.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to know more about composts, come in and talk to us. We have a great range of compost and soil improvers in the centre, and our staff are always happy to advise.</p>

Growing plants in peat-free compost

<p>This <strong>how-to grow Hellebores guide</strong> will help you to produce the best Helleborus in the neighbourhood!</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to grow Hellebores guide</strong> will help you to produce the best Helleborus in the neighbourhood! Evergreen Hellebores are great plants for a shady garden, and because they flower during the colder winter months, they are lovely to see when there isn&rsquo;t much else blooming. The other benefit to growing Hellebores is they aren&rsquo;t enjoyed much by pests such as deer and rabbits. They are a treat for any garden are exceptionally easy to maintain.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>soil&nbsp;</li>
	<li>pruning</li>
	<li>companions</li>
	<li>other care</li>
</ol>

<h2>How to grow Hellebores in the right soil&nbsp;</h2>

<p>They will grow well in well-drained soil, which is primarily moist and in part shade. During prolonged dry spells, give them some water, but Hellebores are more drought tolerant once they are established. Ideally, ensure the soil has been given an application of well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser during early spring to help them along.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Pruning methods to learn how to grow Hellebores&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The plants are evergreen, but the foliage can look messy sometimes, so you can prune back before new growth appears. Also, you can remove a few of the leaves to allow the flowers to be seen better. Prune the old flowers stems after they have flowered, although if you leave them to set seed, they will spread, and you will have more Hellebores! Remove all dead or diseased foliage during autumn or before if they look particularly messy.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to grow Hellebores with companion plants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Hellebores can look pretty all on their own, but for a shady garden or area, they are excellent companion plants for many other shade-tolerant plants. Create a woodland vibe with Ferns, Pulmonaria and Hostas. For a blast of colour, add in Campanula, hardy Geraniums and Epimedium.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Other care for your Hellebores&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Hellebore plants don&rsquo;t tend to grow so well in containers, but for a seasonal display, you could grow them in a container and then move them into a garden border afterwards. They aren&rsquo;t keen on being divided, and allowing them to naturalise is a great way to fill a space anyway. There are many different colours from white to pink and dark purple so you can enjoy them no matter what style you are going for in your garden. They also suit contemporary and cottage gardens, attracting early pollinating insects.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Growing Hellebores is very easy. Try some of these varieties:&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Helleborus Niger - the Christmas Rose (white)</li>
	<li>Helleborus x hybridus Golden Lotus (yellow petals with pink edges)</li>
	<li>Helleborus Double Ellen Picotee (frilly petals with purple trim)</li>
</ul>

<p>We have a selection of Hellebores for you to choose from in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow Hellebores

<p>We often think of spring as the primary gardening season, but <strong>autumn is really the time to get outside</strong>. Here&#39;s everything you need to know about gardening in autumn.</p>

<p>We often think of spring as the primary gardening season, but <strong>autumn is really the time to get outside</strong>. Here&#39;s everything you need to know about gardening in autumn.</p>

<h2>Six reasons why autumn&#39;s the best time for gardening</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn&#39;s the best time to plant shrubs and trees, as the soil is warm from the summer, and there&#39;s usually plenty of rain. Although growth slows down, the roots of newly planted trees will still grow (at a slower pace) through winter, and they&#39;ll be ready when the new growth starts in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn rain and cooler temperatures mean new plants need less additional watering. As well as making life easier for gardeners, this is also the most waterwise way to plant. Rather than spending time and lots of water on watering new plants in spring, plant them in autumn and let the weather do it for you.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When you&#39;re gardening in autumn, you can still remember all those jobs you noticed in summer and planned to get done when you had a minute. By next spring, unless you&#39;re organised enough to have written them down, you might not remember how you wanted to add more colour to a border or move a plant that got too big, and by the time it becomes obvious again, you&#39;re too busy! So get onto those jobs in autumn, and when spring comes, you&#39;ll be all set.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn brings the chance to turn all those fallen leaves into leaf mould, which is a fantastic soil improver. Rake the leaves into a pile or bin bags and leave them somewhere out of sight for a year or so to rot down. As well as making a fantastic soil improver, this also reduces the amount of green waste in your council bin, helping to reduce carbon emissions associated with waste collection.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn&#39;s the best time to plant spring bulbs. You can about get away with it in early winter too, but autumn&#39;s ideal, and it&#39;s the perfect antidote to the end-of-summer blues. Rather than getting gloomy as the days grow short and the clocks go back, you can start looking forward to the first signs of your new bulbs appearing in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give your lawn a bit of care and attention in autumn, and you&#39;ll reap the rewards next year. An autumn feed revitalises your grass after summer and prepares it for the cold winter weather. Scarify to get rid of moss and thatch, allowing water to percolate better into the soil and aerate to improve drainage. Early autumn&#39;s also an excellent time to sow seed, while the temperatures are still warm enough for it to germinate and there&#39;s less foot traffic, giving the grass all winter to get going.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>There&#39;s plenty to do in your garden this autumn, and we&#39;ve got everything you need in our centres. Visit us to stock up on all your essential autumn garden supplies!</p>

Why autumn's the best time to garden

<p>Choosing suitable shrubs for borders and hedging is an effective way to give your garden a whole new look.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Shrubs and hedging are core components in any garden. Used to add structure, they can define boundaries and create a framework for your outdoor design. What&rsquo;s more &ndash; they&rsquo;re typically low-maintenance and robust, which makes them a great option for enthusiastic and reluctant gardeners alike!</p>

<p>With so many varieties to choose from, finding the right hedging plants and shrubs can be tricky. You&rsquo;ll want to ensure that the species you plant are well-suited to the environment and provide the visual impact you&rsquo;re looking for. For inspiration, take a look at these six top hedging plants and shrubs now:</p>

<h2>1. Laurel</h2>

<p>Laurel &ndash; or <em>prunus laurocerasus</em> &ndash; is an excellent choice of hedging shrub. As an evergreen plant, it provides good coverage all year round and will continue to provide clean lines even during autumn and winter. In addition to this, laurel can thrive in both sunshine and shade, which makes it a versatile option that can be used virtually anywhere in your garden.</p>

<p>While laurel typically grows well in any type of soil, you can add a layer of compost to sandy or heavy soil when planting to make it easier for laurel to become established. As laurel can grow 15-60cms each year, regular pruning will help ensure the hedge keeps its shape and grows back thicker. They can be cut back quite severely without causing damage to the plant.</p>

<h2>2. Box</h2>

<p>Also known as <em>buxus sempervirens,</em> box is one of the most popular hedging plants in the UK. Characterised by its small, dense, evergreen leaves, box hedging is an easy way to incorporate shrubs into your garden. Generally, box plants only grow around 10-15cm each year, so you may want to plant mature shrubs if you&rsquo;re looking for instant boundary lines. In recent years Buxus has become badly effected by Box caterpillar moth which can devour a plant in a couple of days.&nbsp; You can install moth traps and treatments but these have to be replaced regularly to keep the pests away.&nbsp; We no longer recommend Buxus due to these issues.&nbsp; Instead we recommend planting Ilex which is similar to Buxus (the leaves are a little bit bigger) but they are not effected by the moth and have better resistance to blight.&nbsp; If you only want your hedge to be 2-3ft tall you can also consider Euonymus which looks similar and has a lush green evergreen leaf.</p>

<p>Box hedging can be planted in almost any soil, although it doesn&rsquo;t tolerate very wet or windy conditions brilliantly. Despite this, it&rsquo;s super easy to maintain and shade tolerant, so you won&rsquo;t need to do much to keep it healthy. Simply prune box hedging back to keep the desired shape and height and you&rsquo;ll have the perfect addition to your garden!</p>

<h2>3. Rockrose</h2>

<p>If you want to add a pop of summer colour to your hedging, rockrose is a great alternative to classic shrubbery. Throughout late spring and summer, it will be filled with bowl-shaped blooms in purple, red, yellow, pink, or white but their dense foliage and narrow leaves will last all year round.</p>

<p>Native to the Mediterranean, Rockrose does need a decent amount of sunshine to thrive, so avoid planting it in shady locations. As it is very drought-tolerant, it won&rsquo;t need frequent watering and will do well in sandy, chalky, or even clay soil.</p>

<p>During early spring, prune rockrose to facilitate optimal growth but, apart from this, it shouldn&rsquo;t require much maintenance at all.&nbsp; Rockrose can reach 1m-1.5m in height and will spread horizontally, as well as growing vertically. This makes it an ideal option for borders, rockeries, courtyards, and suntraps.</p>

<h2>4. Beech</h2>

<p>If you&rsquo;re looking for a fast-growing hedging shrub that will provide privacy, create boundaries, and look sensational, <em>fagus sylvaticus</em> is the answer! Although beech hedges are deciduous, their winter leaves tend to stick around until new growth arrives in spring, which makes them a great option as a hedging shrub.</p>

<p>Ideal for formal hedges or well-manicured gardens, you may want to opt for a purple beech hedge if you want to add a little more colour to your outdoor space.</p>

<p>Beech hedges grow well in either full sun or partial shade, but it does require well-drained soil, so avoid planting it in clay or wet soil where possible. Beech hedges can reach 1m-5m in height and grow at a rate of around 30-60cm per year. Due to this, you will need to keep hedges maintained to prevent excess growth. Trim in late summer or early autumn to ensure maximum winter coverage.</p>

<h2>5. Lavender</h2>

<p>Instantly recognisable, <em>lavandula angustifolia</em>, is known for its dazzling purple flowers and rich scent. Lavender shrubs can grow to around 1m in height and flower in the summer, although they retain their foliage through every season.</p>

<p>Although lavender shrubs are relatively hardy, they do prefer full sun, so try to avoid planting them in shady conditions. Similarly, lavender plants won&rsquo;t tolerate wet or waterlogged soil, so choose a spot with sandy or well-drained soil. Prune immediately after the shrub has flowered or in early to mid-spring if you want shrubs to flower in the summertime.</p>

<h2>6. Privet</h2>

<p>An old favourite and has fallen out of fashion in the last 20yrs.&nbsp; It is a great hedging plant though and should be considered for long runs of hedge to keep costs low.&nbsp; It is good value for money and grow quite quickly, growing over a foot a year once established. It is very resilient and can be cut back severely if needed.&nbsp; You can also make shapes and arches with it!</p>

<h2>Planting Shrubs and Hedging</h2>

<p>Before planting, soak bare-root plants in water for at least an hour or water container-grown shrubs. You&rsquo;ll need to dig a hole that&rsquo;s big enough to contain the rootball but, if you&rsquo;re planting a hedge, it&rsquo;s generally easier to dig a trench and then position each rootball evenly.</p>

<p>Surround the rootball with soil and firm the soil around the trunk of the shrub and water them generously. Throughout the first year, new shrubs and hedging should be watered regularly. To optimise growth, add compost or manure once per year, either in spring or autumn.</p>

<p>No matter what type of garden you&rsquo;re cultivating, shrubs and hedging can create a stunning visual impact and increase the functionality of the space. If you&rsquo;d like advice or assistance with hedging or shrubs, simply get in touch with our team today.</p>

6 great shrubs and hedging plants

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Now it&rsquo;s time to <strong>start planting spring-flowering bulbs</strong> to make sure you get that splash of colour in spring next year.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Now it&rsquo;s time to <strong>start planting spring-flowering bulbs</strong> to make sure you get that splash of colour in spring next year. Gardeners always have to look toward the seasons ahead, and this time of year can be a busy one for gardeners everywhere. As summer comes to an end and we head into autumn, look ahead to the time of year where nature seems to wake up after a cold winter. There&rsquo;s nothing more wonderful than seeing Daffodils, Tulips, Alliums, Hyacinths and many more spring bulbs blooming as the garden springs into life again.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Plan what you will grow before you start planting spring-flowering bulbs&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Think about what you would like to grow next year. Will you have a bed full of spring bulbs and then plant with annuals, or will you plant your bulbs around shrubs and perennials? Consider your space, and then think about the colours you would like to grow. Would you like all pink or all calming whites? Perhaps you&rsquo;d like a mixture of all kinds of colours. Have a plan in mind, and that will make your bulb choices much easier.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Start planting spring-flowering bulbs anytime from now</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Autumn is a hectic time in the garden, clearing away plants, finishing the summer harvests, mulching the soil and composting. One of the most lovely jobs is planting bulbs, and most can be planted anytime from September to November as long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged. Tulips can be planted until Christmas, so there is plenty of time, but if you want to get ahead, why not start now.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">How to start planting spring-flowering bulbs&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Bulbs need to be hidden under the soil, where they store energy through the winter until they pop up through the ground and give us so much spring joy when they bloom.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span>Planting depths are usually about three times the size of the bulb, but you can also use this guide to know how deep you should plant the bulbs:</span></p>

<ul dir="ltr">
	<li><span>Tulips 20cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Iris 10cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Daffodils 15cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>large Alliums 30cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>smaller Alliums 15cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Crocus, Snowdrops and Hyacinths 10cm.</span></li>
</ul>

<p dir="ltr"><span>Too deep may mean they won&rsquo;t flower but too shallow, you may find them eaten by squirrels!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Start planting spring-flowering bulbs in containers&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">It doesn&rsquo;t matter if you have a small space. Bulbs grow really well in pots and containers as well. You can plant lots into one pot for a bustling display and even create a &lsquo;bulb lasagne&rsquo; where you plant a few of each bulb at the correct depths in the same container. So, for example, Tulips at the bottom on a layer of compost, then cover with compost and plant Daffodil bulbs and so on.&nbsp;</span>Always plant late-blooming bulbs first and early-blooming flower bulbs on top of the container.</p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">There are so many varieties to choose from. The options are endless, and you can create a gorgeous spring display.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Pick from our selection of spring bulbs in store to glam up your garden.</span></p>

Start planting spring flowering bulbs

<p>If you&rsquo;re planning on <strong>planting a lot of shrubs or trees, bare-root</strong> plants are ideal. Here&#39;s how to plant bare-root shrubs and trees.</p>

<p>If you&rsquo;re planning on planting a lot of shrubs or trees, bare-root plants are ideal. Grown in the ground rather than in containers, bare-root plants are dug up and sold between November to March while they are dormant. They&rsquo;re cheaper than container-grown plants and don&rsquo;t use plastic pots, so they&rsquo;re better for the environment too. Provided they&rsquo;re planted correctly, bare-root plants will grow into strong, healthy plants. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done:</p>

<h2>How to plant bare-root shrubs and trees</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Plan ahead. Bare root plants need to be planted as soon as possible to stop the roots from drying out, so prepare the planting area beforehand by clearing weeds and stones and add compost or well-rotted farmyard manure to improve the soil structure.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you can&rsquo;t plant your bare root shrub or tree straight away, store it carefully so that the roots don&rsquo;t dry out. If it&rsquo;s only going to be stored for a few days, wrap the roots in damp sacking or newspaper and place the plant somewhere cool and dark. Keep the sacking or paper damp.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It is best to plant as soon as possible so the root ball doesn&#39;t dry out. If it&rsquo;s going to be several weeks before you can plant, heel your plants in by digging a trench, placing the plants with their roots in the trench and backfilling with soil. If the ground is frozen or waterlogged, pot the plants up in large pots filled with compost, taking care not to bend the roots. If this isn&#39;t possible, water the root balls with a hose and keep them damp.&nbsp; Don not water though if the weather is frosty as this could damage the roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Before you plant a bare root plant, soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or soak with a hose pipe.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>To plant your bare root shrub or tree, dig a square hole the depth of the rootball and 2-3 times its width. Digging a square hole encourages the roots to spread out into the surrounding soil, rather than simply to circle round as they might do in a round hole. It is also a good idea to add some organic matter to the hole or a good quality compost to provide nutrients. Adding bonemeal to the soil/ compost in the hole will also encourage root growth.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Leave a mound of soil at the centre of the hole and place the base of the plant on this, allowing the roots to drape over the mound.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>You should be able to see a &lsquo;tidemark&rsquo; on the plant&#39;s trunk that will show the previous soil level. When planting, ensure that the plant is at the same level in the soil as previously. Planting too deep can cause the trunk to rot, killing the plant. (The exception to this rule is bare-root roses, which are best planted deep.)&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>There&rsquo;s no need to add fertiliser when planting, but a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi over the roots can help the plant establish a good root system.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Backfill with soil and firm down gently with the heel of your boot.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add a stake if necessary to support tall trees. Trees less than 1m tall don&rsquo;t usually need staking.&nbsp; For larger trees (over 3m) you might want to consider using a ground anchor and strap system to prevent the tree from being blown over which&nbsp;could damage the roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water well after planting to settle the soil, and water regularly during the first year after planting.&nbsp; We recommend installing an automatic drip irrigation system.&nbsp; Program this to come on for 30mins a day either at night or early hours in the morning.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Now&rsquo;s a great time to plant shrubs and trees, and you&rsquo;ll find everything you need at&nbsp;our garden centre, so why not visit us?&nbsp; We can also source and deliver large orders of hedging plants.&nbsp;</p>

Planting bare root shrubs and trees

<p>As the seasons change and colder weather arrives, it&rsquo;s time to prep your garden for what&rsquo;s to come. By getting your garden ready for autumn, you&rsquo;re also being proactive about protecting plants, shrubs, and lawns from succumbing to damage in the winter. With this in mind, take a look at these eight top tips for preparing your garden for autumn:</p>

<h2>1. Remove Overhanging Tree Branches</h2>

<p>If you have trees on your property, be sure to assess them carefully throughout autumn. If any branches are overhanging or look unstable, it&rsquo;s a good idea to remove them now. As the weather gets windier, additional damage could occur, which may result in branches falling. By removing them now and ensuring trees are stable, you can avoid any accidents or property damage, as well as making sure that trees grow healthily.</p>

<h2>2. Trim Hedges</h2>

<p>Knowing when to trim hedges is important if you want them to look their best and last for as long as possible. For the first two years, new hedges require &lsquo;formative pruning&rsquo;, which helps to shape them. Following this, maintenance trimming is all that&rsquo;s required to keep hedges in great condition.</p>

<p>Formal hedges typically need to be trimmed twice or three times per year and spring and autumn are the ideal times to do this. Informal hedges may only need to be pruned once or twice per year, so add this to your autumn garden checklist.</p>

<h2>3. Clear Out Greenhouses and Growing Frames</h2>

<p>Greenhouses and garden growing frames are excellent ways of nurturing young plants and achieving optimal growth. As the temperatures drop, you may rely more heavily on greenhouses and covered garden growing frames, so make sure they&rsquo;re ready for use.</p>

<p>By clearing out the items you no longer need or use and relocating plants that no longer need extra protection, you can make space for new plants to be added over autumn. Leaving fragile plants outside could mean that they won&rsquo;t survive the winter, so clearing out greenhouses and growing frames now will ensure you have the resources and space you need to protect these plants until spring arrives.</p>

<h2>4. Aerate and Treat Lawns</h2>

<p>Optimal lawn care varies depending on the time of year, so you&rsquo;ll want to know how to treat your lawn in autumn to keep it in great condition. You can begin by &lsquo;scarifying&rsquo; or raking the lawn to remove debris and dead grass. This ensures that water and nutrients can be absorbed into the soil more easily and also enhances the appearance of the lawn.</p>

<p>The next step is to aerate the lawn, so that air, water, and nutrients can travel through the roots of the grass. In addition to this, aeration enables the lawn to deal with more extreme weather conditions. If heavy rain causes the grass to get waterlogged, for example, a well-aerated lawn will be able to cope with the additional water more effectively.</p>

<p>Following this, you can apply top dressing, weedkillers, and/or lawn feed to the grass to support it throughout autumn. Choose products that are designed for use at this time of year, so that the lawn benefits from optimal nutrition.</p>

<h2>5. Put Up Stakes and Supports</h2>

<p>As it gets windier and rainier, plants will take more of a battering. For young or fragile plants, it&rsquo;s important to provide them with a little extra support. You can use stakes, trellises, canes, mesh, or covered garden growing frames to ensure that plants remain standing throughout autumn.</p>

<p>If you already have stakes and supports installed in your garden, examine them carefully to ensure they&rsquo;re in good condition. Debris should be removed and supports washed to get rid of excess soil. If necessary, wooden stakes and supports can be treated to preserve them and protect them from unnecessary damage.</p>

<h2>6. Tidy Up Borders</h2>

<p>The borders of your lawn can quickly spread if you don&rsquo;t trim them regularly. When you aren&rsquo;t cutting the grass as often, it&rsquo;s easy to overlook the importance of trimming borders. By making this part of your autumn garden maintenance, you can ensure that they&rsquo;re kept neat and tidy throughout the season. An edging tool or knife makes it easy to keep borders looking pristine, but you could use a spade and a long plank of wood if you don&rsquo;t have an edging tool to hand.</p>

<h2>7. Clean Out Bird Feeders</h2>

<p>If you have bird feeders or nesting boxes in your garden, autumn is a good time to clean and refresh them. Old nesting boxes may contain debris and old nesting materials, so use hot water to get rid of any potential contaminants. Similarly, feeders can be rinsed with water and washed out with a mild detergent before being dried and placed back in the garden.</p>

<p>Birds are more reliant on feeders in autumn and winter, which means that you might need to refill them more often. Cleaning them out and checking them for damage now will ensure you&rsquo;re able to continue feeding the birds and providing them with crucial nutritional support throughout autumn and winter.</p>

<h2>8. Add Colour to Your Garden</h2>

<p>Many people assume that spring is the only suitable time to plant anything new, but this isn&rsquo;t the case. In fact, the extra moisture from autumn rainfall can make it the ideal time to plant hardy annuals and autumn perennials, such as Hylotelephium, Asters, Colchicum autumnale, or Japanese anemones. If you want to inject some late colour into your garden, now is the time to do it!&nbsp; Violas and pansys also make a nice splash of colour to a border or selection of pation pots.</p>

<h2>Creating an Autumn Garden Checklist</h2>

<p>Whether you enjoy looking out over a lush lawn or you love being surrounded by colourful, aromatic blooms, prepping your garden for autumn allows you to get the most of it all year round. By protecting plants and lawns from winter damage, you can be confident that your garden will come bouncing back in spring. What&rsquo;s more &ndash; a little autumn prep means you can enjoy your garden for longer and make the most of balmy evenings and warmer temperatures while they last.</p>

8 Tips for Preparing your Garden for Autumn

<p>A <strong>fruit tree</strong> adds so much to a garden. Many make superb ornamental trees with their beautiful spring blossom, and some can even be grown in a large pot on a patio or balcony. Plus, you get to pick and enjoy your own home-grown fruit! To get you started, here are our top tips on growing fruit trees.</p>

<p>A <strong>fruit tree</strong> adds so much to a garden. Many make superb ornamental trees with their beautiful spring blossom, and some can even be grown in a large pot on a patio or balcony. Plus, you get to pick and enjoy your own home-grown fruit! To get you started, here are our top tips on growing fruit trees.</p>

<h2>Which fruit trees to grow</h2>

<p>For colder areas of the country, apple and plum trees are the best choice, planted in a sunny sheltered spot. In mild areas, there&rsquo;s a wide range of fruit trees to choose from, including pears, cherries and even apricots and nectarines in very sheltered sunny sites. Or, for a touch of Mediterranean atmosphere, try a fig tree, which has beautiful architectural leaves as well as a delicious fruit and will grow well in a large pot.</p>

<h2>Fruit trees for small gardens</h2>

<p>The size of a fruit tree is mainly determined by its rootstock, and trees are grown on very dwarfing, dwarfing, or semi-dwarfing rootstocks that are ideal for small spaces. If you want to grow fruit in a pot, look for a tree on a very dwarfing rootstock &ndash; this information will usually be on the plant label. Ballerina apples are ideal for pots, producing just one central stem with very short spurs bearing fruit. Espaliered or fan-trained fruit trees can be grown against a wall, taking up very little space.&nbsp;</p>

<p>If you only have space for one fruit tree, choose a self-pollinating variety. To produce fruit, some fruit trees need a pollination partner, i.e. another tree of the same type but a different variety. Still, self-pollinating fruit trees can produce fruit even if they are the only tree for miles around. Check the plant label or look up the various online to determine whether your preferred tree is self-pollinating.</p>

<h2>Tips on caring for fruit trees</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Give your fruit tree the best conditions for the best results - fertile, well-drained soil with lots of compost dug in and a sheltered, sunny position.</li>
	<li>If possible, plant fruit trees in winter while they are dormant so the roots can get settled before the tree starts growing again in spring.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Water newly planted trees weekly from spring to autumn, giving them at least one full watering can&rsquo;s worth of water.</li>
	<li>Keep the area around the tree roots clear of weeds and grass that compete with the tree for water and nutrients.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Feed fruit trees annually in late winter or early spring &ndash; different fruit trees need different types of fertiliser, so check your tree&rsquo;s requirements first.</li>
	<li>Mulch around the base of your tree with garden compost, leafmould or well-rotted manure in spring and autumn, making sure the mulch doesn&rsquo;t sit against the tree&#39;s trunk as this could cause rotting.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to grow your own fruit, visit our centre where we have a fantastic range of fruit trees as well as soft fruit and lots more. We&rsquo;re always happy to help with your gardening questions!</p>

Top tips for growing fruit trees

<p>The days might be getting shorter but there&rsquo;s still plenty to enjoy in your garden, with late-flowering plants and stunning autumn foliage setting the garden aglow with colour. It&rsquo;s time to harvest the veg, tidy up the beds and start thinking ahead to next spring. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening jobs for September</strong>.</p>

<p>The days might be getting shorter but there&rsquo;s still plenty to enjoy in your garden, with late-flowering plants and stunning autumn foliage setting the garden aglow with colour. It&rsquo;s time to harvest the veg, tidy up the beds and start thinking ahead to next spring. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening jobs for September</strong>.</p>

<h2>Top 15 Gardening Tips for September</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberry plants will be sending out runners now (long stems with tufts of leaves). If you want extra plants, peg the runners down in the ground to root and grow, otherwise cut them off to conserve the plants&rsquo; energy.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest the last of the maincrop potatoes. Cut off the foliage three weeks before you harvest, then dig up the potatoes and leave them to dry for a few hours before storing in paper bags or hessian sacks.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep picking the last of the French and runner beans. Once the plants have finished, cut them down to ground level, so that the roots can release their stored nitrogen back into the soil.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now&rsquo;s the time to prune summer raspberries, cutting back the fruited canes down to ground level and tying in this year&rsquo;s new canes to supports for next year&rsquo;s crop.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plums, pears and apples should all be ready to harvest now, as well as blackberries and autumn raspberries.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow poppies, nigella, cornflower and other hardy annuals now for a fantastic display of flowers next summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep deadheading dahlias, roses and penstemons for a last flush of flowers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back geraniums and other perennials as they fade. Now&rsquo;s also a good time to lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials like hardy geraniums, hostas and salvias.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, bluebells and other spring bulbs, except tulips which are better planted in November when the weather is colder to reduce the risk of viruses.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>As the grass starts to slow down, mow lawns less often and on a higher blade setting. Keep your lawn healthy by scarifying, aerating and feeding with an autumn lawn feed high in potassium.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pumpkins are starting to ripen now, so remove leaves to give them as much sun as possible. Put a slate tile under the fruits to keep them off damp ground.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water camellias and rhododendrons regularly now while they are developing next year&rsquo;s flower buds.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Protect brassicas like cabbage or kale from pigeons by covering them with netting stretched over canes. Peg the netting down tightly to stop birds getting their feet tangled in it.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Remove the shading from greenhouses as light levels drop.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Raise pots on pot feet to stop them getting waterlogged and frozen over winter.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re planting, picking or cutting back, you&rsquo;ll find everything you need in our centres. Visit us today and let us help you get your garden looking great this autumn.</p>

15 garden tips for September

<p>You can <strong>reduce weeds with mulch</strong> at most times of the year, but there are preferable seasons to help control weeds.</p>

<p>You can <strong>reduce weeds with mulch</strong> at most times of the year, but there are preferable seasons to help control weeds. In fact, mulch can be many different materials used for feeding the soil, decorative purposes, or just to cover an area ahead of a redesign. With so many options available to mulch in your garden or on your allotment, we have put together a list that will help you decide which to use.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>Woodchip</li>
	<li>Organic matter</li>
	<li>Straw / Hay</li>
	<li>Leaves</li>
	<li>Grass clippings</li>
</ol>

<h2>Reduce weeds with mulch and use wood chip</h2>

<p>You can use wood chips that both tidy up pathways and borders, helping to keep the weeds down. Woodchip matches any style garden, but if you are going to be digging a lot (such as on an allotment), you might want to keep the wood chip on the pathways instead of in the soil, so it doesn&rsquo;t get in the way. You can buy bags of wood chips or ask a local tree care company.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Organic matter can reduce weeds with mulch</h2>

<p>This can include animal manure or homemade compost. All can be used to keep weeds down in garden borders and vegetable gardens. Each has various benefits, such as animal manures will feed the soil, most will help retain moisture, but nothing beats homemade compost. You can use your own compost bins for garden and kitchen food waste and make your own, which is immensely satisfying! There are also mulches available that are made solely from plants and will also provide your soil with nutrients.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use straw or hay to reduce weeds with mulch</h2>

<p>Vegetable and fruit beds can be mulched with straw or hay as long as they are weed and seed free. It can really give a vegetable garden a great look, and as it breaks down, it will feed the soil. Please keep it away from stems/trunks as slugs and snails do tend to hide underneath.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Reduce weeds with mulch and use your grass cuttings</h2>

<p>When you have mown your lawn, the clippings can then be used to mulch vegetable beds. They will be full of nitrogen and feed the soil while excluding light from the weeds to stop them from growing.</p>

<p>Mulching keeps the garden not only looking neat but also replenishes the soil and helps to retain moisture. It can also improve the structure of the soil as well.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Visit our centre in %locations% and choose from our mulches in store. Get started in the garden and apply mulch.</p>

Reduce weeds with mulch

<p>This guide is <strong>how to prevent your plants from bolting,</strong> which can be so frustrating and happen really quickly in conditions that aren&rsquo;t ideal for your plants.</p>

<p>This guide is <strong>how to prevent your plants from bolting,</strong> which can be so frustrating and happen really quickly in conditions that aren&rsquo;t ideal for your plants.</p>

<h2>What is bolting?</h2>

<p>Bolting is when an edible plant such as lettuce/salads, some herbs, chard, spinach and other greens quickly go to seed much sooner than planned and usually before you&rsquo;ve been able to harvest. You can often spot the signs of bolting as the plants suddenly grow tall, and you can see flower heads forming. Unfortunately, when that happens, the flavour of the plant&nbsp;changes and makes some of the leaves and other parts bitter, so avoiding bolting is preferable.</p>

<h2>How to prevent your plants from bolting?</h2>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Make sure you plant out in the right season for your crops. Always read the seed packet when you start sowing seeds, harden them off before planting out and keep an eye on them. This will make sure they get the best chance at the right temperatures for them to grow.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It is all about avoiding stressing the plants. Keep them watered consistently rather than as and when, and it can also help if you have seedlings to pot them on before they get root-bound. Think about what the plant needs to thrive and stay on top of it truly.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather heats up, some plants get stressed at the rise of heat and the sudden changes, and you will notice they shoot upwards quickly. For many leafy greens that can be prone to this, please give them a little shade to keep them cool and less stressed.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Successional sowing can help keep you with plenty of delicious crops throughout the season rather than relying on one crop for a long season that may be more prone to bolting. Sow more seeds every two weeks between spring and summer, which should mean you are harvesting into late summer/early autumn.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pick the right varieties of plants that are &lsquo;bolt hardy&rsquo; or &lsquo;bolt resistant&rsquo; as they have been bred to cope better in conditions that might usually make them &lsquo;go to seed&rsquo; much quicker. There are many varieties available. Another way is to sow &lsquo;cut and come again&rsquo; varieties where you continuously cut the leaves, and the plant keeps on growing.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plants bolt due to sharp changes in temperature, perhaps the length of the day or any number of other factors that cause plants to feel stressed. If that stress is not just short period plants, grow to produce flowers for seed which is an incredible process of ensuring their species continues to survive.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>For seed varieties and advice, visit our friendly team in store and us.&nbsp;</p>

How to prevent your plants from bolting

<p>Tired of double-digging your vegetable garden? Take heart &ndash; there is another way. <strong>No-dig gardening</strong> is an increasingly popular way of gardening that minimises disturbance to the soil, leaving the natural soil organisms to do the hard work for you.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Tired of double-digging your vegetable garden? Take heart &ndash; there is another way. <strong>No-dig gardening</strong> is an increasingly popular way of gardening that minimises disturbance to the soil, leaving the natural soil organisms to do the hard work for you.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>What is no-dig gardening?</h2>

<p>No-dig gardening is just what it says &ndash; a way of gardening with a minimal amount of digging. It&rsquo;s perfect for allotments and vegetable gardens that would traditionally be dug over every year.</p>

<h2>The benefits of no-dig gardening</h2>

<p>Less digging means less interference with the soil&rsquo;s ecosystem. This allows the natural soil organisms and bacteria to work undisturbed, creating a structure and environment that allows plants to thrive.</p>

<p>No-dig gardening can also reduce weeding &ndash; a big benefit for any gardener! We&rsquo;ve all seen how weeds can spring upon the soil that&rsquo;s been dug over, as the weed seeds are exposed to sunlight and germinate. However, once a no-dig regime has been properly established, there&rsquo;s much less soil disturbance and consequently fewer weeds. The improved soil structure also means that even deep-rooted weeds like bindweed are easier to pull out.</p>

<h2>How to start incorporating no-dig practices into your garden.</h2>

<p>One thing no-dig gardening does require is a large amount of organic material for mulching, so it&rsquo;s best to start with a small area of your vegetable plot and gradually extend it. Well-rotted compost is better than straw or woodchip as it provides fewer places for slugs to hide.</p>

<p>As well as compost, you&rsquo;ll also need something to exclude light from the soil. Cardboard sheets are ideal because they will eventually break down and decompose, or you could use a water-permeable weed membrane.</p>

<ol>
	<li>To clear an area, slash all tall weeds to ground level and compost them. Dig out any woody dock and bramble roots as far as possible.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Lay the cardboard sheets on the soil, cover them with a deep layer of mulch, 15-20cm thick, and tread it down. If you are using a weed membrane, lay the mulch down first, then lay the membrane on top. Leave the area alone for at least 6 months. The result should be rich, friable soil, with any remaining weed roots easy to pull out. Regular hoeing will take care of annual weeds with minimal soil disturbance.</li>
	<li>For areas that are planted up already, apply a layer of mulch at least 15cm thick and firm it down. Eventually, the soil below will become friable as organisms work it, and weeds can be easily pulled up. An annual application of a 5cm layer of mulch in autumn will help keep the soil in good condition.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need to keep your garden in shape, you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre! Visit us today to see our wide range of tools, soil improvers and other great gardening products.</p>

No dig gardening

<p>Here&rsquo;s a brief guide to the differences between summer and winter pruning.</p>

<h2>Why should we prune trees and shrubs?</h2>

<p>Pruning shrubs and trees gives them a better shape, encourages new growth and more fruit and flowers, and removes old deadwood. Knowing when to prune is just as important as knowing which branches to cut, and pruning at different times of the year will affect your plants. Here&rsquo;s a brief guide to the differences between summer and winter pruning.</p>

<h2>Summer pruning</h2>

<p>In general, pruning plants in summer when they are fully growing tends to reduce their vigour, so it&rsquo;s a useful way of restricting the size of over-vigorous trees and shrubs.</p>

<p>Some shrubs and trees need to be pruned in summer rather than at any other time of year. Trees in the Prunus family, including plum, cherry, damson and flowering cherry trees, should only be pruned in summer to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. This is a fungal disease spread by airborne spores in May and September, so summer pruning gives the pruning cuts time to heal while no spores are floating around to infect them.</p>

<p>Spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia, weigela and philadelphus produce flowers on shoots produced the previous year, so pruning too late in the year risks cutting off these shoots, reducing the next year&rsquo;s flowering. Summer pruning gives these plants time to produce next year&rsquo;s shoots before their growth slows down for winter.</p>

<p>Apple and pear trees trained as fans, espaliers and cordons are also pruned in summer, cutting back vigorous new growth so that sunlight can ripen the fruit.</p>

<h2>Winter pruning</h2>

<p>Pruning is often easier in winter, as many trees and shrubs lose their leaves, making it easier to see dead or damaged branches that need to be removed.</p>

<p>Some plants, such as Japanese maples, can only be pruned in winter, as they bleed too much sap if they are pruned during their growing season. Birches are best pruned between autumn and mid-winter to avoid excessive sap bleeding. Free-standing apple and pear trees are pruned in winter to encourage them to produce vigorous new fruit-bearing shoots.</p>

<p>As a rule, winter pruning encourages vigorous new growth in spring, so it&rsquo;s a good time to prune deciduous shrubs that have become overgrown and unproductive (but check first on the specific pruning requirements for each shrub).</p>

<h2>Pruning tips</h2>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re pruning in summer or winter, these tips will help you achieve the best results:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Make sure your secateurs or loppers are sharp so that they make a clean cut.</li>
	<li>When pruning, cut just above a bud, making a cut slanting away from the bud so that rainwater runs off the cut face easily.</li>
	<li>Work slowly and keep standing back to check how much you&rsquo;ve cut off. Remember, you can&rsquo;t put it back!</li>
</ul>

<p>Need new pruning tools? You&rsquo;ll find secateurs, loppers and a range of other tools in our centre, as well as everything else you need to keep your garden looking good this summer.</p>

Summer and winter pruning

<p>Growing your own fruit and vegetables can be very rewarding. But sometimes, it can also feel like a battle, with every creature in your garden just waiting for the chance to devour your carefully nurtured plants. Here are our <strong>top tips on keeping your crops safe</strong> from everything that wants to eat them.</p>

<p>Growing your own fruit and vegetables can be very rewarding. But sometimes, it can also feel like a battle, with every creature in your garden just waiting for the chance to devour your carefully nurtured plants. Here are our <strong>top tips on keeping your crops safe</strong> from everything that wants to eat them.</p>

<h2>Slugs and snails</h2>

<p>These slimy critters are consistently top of gardeners&rsquo; lists of most hated garden pests, coming in under cover of darkness and demolishing plants and seedlings.&nbsp; Keep on top of them with these tips:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Untidy gardens give slugs and snails plenty of places to hide, so clear out the clutter. Remove old leaves and weeds, and put them on your compost heap far away from beds.</li>
	<li>Copper tape around the tops of pots discourages slugs and snails, as they don&rsquo;t like to cross it.</li>
	<li>One of the most effective ways to protect your plants is to go slug-hunting late at night with a torch, remove any slugs and snails from your plants and dispose of them.</li>
	<li>And of course, if nothing else works, there are always slug pellets but do make sure always to use environmentally-friendly pellets.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Rabbits and deer</h2>

<p>Rabbits and deer might look cute, but they&rsquo;re not good news in the vegetable garden, devouring all your precious seedlings. Good fencing is the best defence against these hungry visitors. The fencing should go down 30cm (1ft) below ground to stop rabbits burrowing under it. A 1.2m (4ft) high fence should keep the rabbits out &ndash; for deer, make it 1.8m (6ft) high. Surround young tree seedlings with wire to stop rabbits gnawing the bark and killing the tree.</p>

<p>You can buy chemical repellants for both rabbits and deer at garden centres. They need to be applied regularly to be effective. You can also try soaking cotton wool buds in peppermint oil and leaving them around the garden, replacing them regularly.</p>

<h2>Birds</h2>

<p>Birds will peck at the leaves of vegetables, especially brassicas like kale and cabbage, and strip fruit bushes. To protect soft fruit, net the bushes once the fruit ripens, keeping the netting taut so that small birds don&rsquo;t get tangled in it. Protect brassicas with netting supported on canes or hoops.</p>

<h2>Squirrels</h2>

<p>Squirrels are notorious for digging up spring bulbs planted in pots and beds, especially tulip and early iris bulbs, which they see as a tasty meal especially buried for their convenience.</p>

<p>To deter squirrels, peg down chicken wire over areas planted with bulbs. This stops the squirrels from digging, and the bulbs can grow up through the wire. You can remove the wire once shoots start appearing, as squirrels seem less inclined to dig up bulbs once they have started to grow.</p>

<p>We have a wide range of solutions in the centre to keep your plants safe and healthy, so visit us today. Our staff are always happy to advise!</p>

How to keep your crops safe from animals

<p>August means holidays are here, so take some time to enjoy your garden and reap the benefits of all your hard work throughout the year. There&rsquo;s still plenty to do, though, and our <strong>top gardening tips for August</strong> will help you keep your garden looking great right through summer.</p>

<p>August means holidays are here, so take some time to enjoy your garden and reap the benefits of all your hard work throughout the year. There&rsquo;s still plenty to do, though, and our <strong>top gardening tips for August</strong> will help you keep your garden looking great right through summer.</p>

<h2>Gardening tips for August</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead dahlias, daylilies and petunias regularly to keep them flowering through to autumn. Repeat-flowering roses should be deadheaded too, but leave rugosa roses alone to develop their brightly coloured hips for winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Camellias and rhododendrons need regular watering now, as they&rsquo;re producing the buds for next year&rsquo;s flowers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim lavender once the flowers have faded, taking care not to cut back into old wood.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune rambling roses, removing one in three flowering stems, and tying the remaining stems into supports.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give wisteria its summer pruning, cutting back all this year&rsquo;s long whippy shoots to five or six leaves.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out the growing tips of cordon tomatoes, runner beans and squash plants. This will focus the plants&rsquo; energies on producing more fruit.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim herbs like thyme, mint and basil to give you the last flush of delicious new leaves before autumn arrives.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberry plants will be producing runners now. Peg these down in the ground or in little pots, and they will grow into new plants for next spring. If you don&rsquo;t need any new plants, cut the runners off.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Feed container-grown fruit and veg like tomatoes, blueberries and peppers fortnightly with a high potash feed to boost fruit production. Feed citrus plants weekly with a specialist citrus feed.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Net fruit to protect it from birds, pegging the netting down taut to stop birds getting tangled in it, and check it at least twice a day.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It&rsquo;s time to start harvesting maincrop potatoes. Once their foliage fades, wait a week or two, then lift them carefully with a border fork.&nbsp; Cucumbers, courgettes, runner and French beans, beetroots, onions, carrots and tomatoes should also be ready to harvest now, as will plums, peaches and the first of the apples.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the leaves of onions, shallots and garlic turn yellow and flop over, it&rsquo;s time to lift them as well. Put them somewhere warm for a few days to dry out before storing them.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow salads like rocket, mizuna and lamb&rsquo;s lettuce for a supply of tasty leaves through autumn into early winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep mowing the lawn, but raise the blade height in long dry periods to avoid stressing the grass.&nbsp; If you&rsquo;re planning to sow seed or lay new turf in autumn, start preparing the area now to give the soil a chance to settle.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Finally, it might be mid-summer, but it&rsquo;s never too early to think about next year&rsquo;s garden. Spring bulbs will be in the garden centres soon, so start planning your planting now.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need to keep your garden looking great this summer, you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre. Visit us soon and see what&rsquo;s in store!</p>

15 gardening tips for August

<p>Choose the <strong>best plants for a window kitchen garden</strong> to ensure you have a thriving place in your kitchen full of plants.</p>

<p>Choose the <strong>best plants for a window kitchen garden</strong> to ensure you have a thriving place in your kitchen full of plants. Whether you have a garden and just want to make the most of your space indoors as well, or if you only have indoor space to grow and want to make the most of every inch, this list of plants will help you get botanical inside on any windowsill. There are many options, and in fact, you go traditional or tropical and edible to ornamental with a little plant creativity. Your windowsill will look wonderful.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Herbs are the best plants for a window kitchen garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Undoubtedly herbs are at the top of the list for a kitchen windowsill. Not only can many be grown indoors, but they can be easy to grow, care for and productive. Jut a quick snip, and you have fresh leaves for cooking, baking or drink decorations. Try Basil &lsquo;Purple Ruffels&rsquo; for all of the flavour with deep purple foliage. Coriander is a great herb to grow to garnish curry, and Oregano is a versatile herb for cooking with.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>More best plants for a window kitchen garden include edible flowers&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Herbs aren&rsquo;t the only edibles for a kitchen windowsill. There are many edible flowers that you could also grow inside. Try these:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Violas for cake decorating and popping into ice trays for a summer drink</li>
	<li>Nasturtiums can trail along and down the window ledge to use the flowers and foliage in salads. Best of all, mix these edibles with herbs for a lovely display.</li>
	<li>Nasturtium &lsquo;Ladybird Rose&rsquo; has a pink tinge,</li>
	<li>Discover the bright orange and reds of varieties such as &lsquo;Empress of India&rsquo;.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Microgreens are the best plants for a window kitchen garden</h2>

<p>Some of the most simple, nutritious edibles to grow are microgreens. Great for small spaces, sow plenty of seeds in a seed tray or recycled food container in compost. Keep them moist and harvest when they are no bigger than 10cm. You can grow all kinds of microgreens, from sprouts to radish and beetroot to fenugreek. All delicious, fast-growing and full of nutrition.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Tropical plants are the best plants for a window kitchen garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many tropical plants we can grow in the UK inside rather than outside. Hibiscus, small citrus trees (if you have a larger window space), Oxalis and Orchids are all incredibly colourful and grow well inside. Add in a Fuchsia, and you can even make Fuchsia jam with the berries!&nbsp;</p>

<p>As you can see, you needn&rsquo;t be restricted by space, and there is always more room for plants on any windowsill!&nbsp;</p>

<p>Create your kitchen garden with seeds and plants from in store and get advice from our friendly team.&nbsp;</p>

Best plants for a window kitchen garden 

<p><strong>Alpine troughs</strong> are compact, easy to plant and very low-maintenance, so they&rsquo;re perfect for gardeners short on time or space. As the name suggests, alpine plants come from mountain regions, so they&rsquo;re used to tough conditions.&nbsp; Planting an alpine trough is a great way to appreciate these fascinating plants and provide long-lasting interest for a pot on a patio or balcony. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<p><strong>Alpine troughs</strong> are compact, easy to plant and very low-maintenance, so they&rsquo;re perfect for gardeners short on time or space. As the name suggests, alpine plants come from mountain regions, so they&rsquo;re used to tough conditions.&nbsp; Planting an alpine trough is a great way to appreciate these fascinating plants and provide long-lasting interest for a pot on a patio or balcony. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<h2>What you&rsquo;ll need to plant an alpine trough</h2>

<ul>
	<li>A shallow container or trough with good drainage holes</li>
	<li>Loam-based compost such as John Innes no 2</li>
	<li>Horticultural grit</li>
	<li>Rocks for decoration if available</li>
	<li>Alpine plants</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to plant an alpine trough</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Choose the position for your alpine trough. Most alpines do best in the sun, although some will grow in light shade.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>The key to growing alpines is good drainage &ndash; they hate sitting with their roots in wet soil. Raise your trough on pot feet to improve drainage, and place pot shards or squares of shade netting over the holes to stop them from getting blocked up with compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill the trough with a 50/50 mix of a loam-based compost like John Innes no 2 and horticultural grit to about 2cm below the pot&#39;s lip.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you have a few interesting-looking rocks, arrange them in the compost to create the look of a mountainous environment.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant your alpines among the rocks.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Top-dress with a layer of grit. This keeps in moisture, suppresses weeds and stops the plants from being splashed with mud when it rains.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<h2>Caring for alpine plants</h2>

<p>Most alpines are reasonably drought-tolerant but water the containers during long dry periods to stop the compost from drying out completely. Deadhead plants after they have flowered.</p>

<p>In winter, move the trough into the rain-shadow of a house to shelter it from excessive winter rain.</p>

<h2>Plants for an alpine trough</h2>

<p>There&rsquo;s a wide range of alpine plants to choose from. Here are a few of our favourites:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Armeria (sea thrift)</strong>: Pretty pink flowers bob on slender stems above a mat of evergreen grass-like foliage. Deadhead faded flowers to keep it flowering.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Phlox douglasii Crackerjack</strong>: A semi-evergreen creeping phlox with small leaves, covered in a mass of bright pink flowers in late spring and early summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Sedum cauticola (stonecrop)</strong>: A low, spreading sedum with small rounded blue-green leaves and clusters of small pink flowers in autumn.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Saxifraga (saxifrage)</strong>: Rosettes of fleshy leaves form mats, with clusters of small pink or white flowers float above the leaves on wiry stems. Good for shady spots.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Lewisia</strong>: Colourful star-shaped flowers in late spring and early summer. It prefers damper soil to most other alpines.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Sempervivums</strong>: Evergreen succulents come in a wide range of colours and sizes, forming rosettes of fleshy leaves. Very tough and easy to grow.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>It&#39;s fun starting on a new project this summer. Gardening relieves stress and is healthy at the same time. We have a great range of alpines and other plants in our centre, so visit us soon and get some inspiration for your next gardening project!</p>

How to plant an alpine trough

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Think about <strong>cost effective vegetables to grow</strong>, so not only will your kitchen garden be thriving and full of produce, but you will be sure to save plenty of money as well.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Think about <strong>cost effective vegetables to grow</strong>, so not only will your kitchen garden be thriving and full of produce, but you will be sure to save plenty of money as well. Purchasing fruit and vegetables from the supermarket can soon add up, but sowing and growing from seed can save plenty of money and be full of fun as you soak up the best of gardening. We have put together this list of vegetables that you can grow easily in your garden and will provide you with plenty of crops. Some are even hard to find in the supermarket!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2>Vegetables you can grow easily in your garden</h2>

<h3><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">1. Courgettes and Pumpkins</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Sow squash seeds, and you are sure to get great germination rates, and as they are easy to grow, you can grow them just about anywhere. Courgettes will keep coming all summer long into autumn and are superb value, full of nutrition and easy to cook with. Pumpkins last ages in storage and can provide you with a lot of autumn and winter food.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">2. Asparagus&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">The spears of delicious and nutritious asparagus can be expensive to purchase from the shops. Hence, creating an asparagus bed is a great way to ensure you have the seasonal goodness of these well sought after vegetables. Plant crowns, and although you will need to wait until year two or even three for a full harvest, it is definitely worth the wait.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">3. Swiss chard&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Probably the easiest leafy greens to grow. Sow seeds; they germinate well and will grow in abundance in the garden or allotment. They can grow in pots and containers as well. If you let some go to seed, you can collect the seeds for the following year or allow them to self-seed and grow where they want to!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>4.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Kale&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">With the many varieties available and the tasty green leaves, Kale is an easy crop to grow and looks great in an autumn/winter garden. Keep the slugs and pigeons off it with some netting, and you will be with a long supply of vegetables for many months.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>5.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Lettuce</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Harvesting lettuce from pots, containers or in beds and borders is satisfying and so easy! Sow seeds successionally every couple of weeks from spring to late summer, then choose winter varieties to get you through the winter, and you can grow almost all year round!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>6.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Beetroot</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Another easy crop to grow that will supply you with plenty of beets that you can pickle and store for a long time. Try Rainbow beetroot for orange and white layers in your jar of pickled beets for an extra special rainbow colour of goodness.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Come in store to find all the seeds you need for cost effective vegetable growing.&nbsp;</span></p>

News - Page 14

Caring for Hanging Baskets

Brighten Up Your Garden with Summer Bedding Plants

A Guide to Herbaceous Perennials

Why We Love Primroses at Carpenter’s Nursery

5 beautiful indoor hanging plants

Creating a Fragrant Rose Garden

Great Winter Pot Plant Gift Ideas

Add Colour with Winter Bedding Plants, Containers and Hanging Baskets

Tips for Growing Fruit in Containers

Start Your Own Kitchen Garden Using Growbags, Troughs and Containers

Hanging Baskets at Carpenters Nursery

Simple Tricks to Keep Your Lawn in Tip-Top Condition