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<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood. When we take down the Christmas decorations, it can seem like the room feels bare, so if you'd still like the space filled with greenery, these plants will do just that for you.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Top 10 Houseplants After Christmas</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p><strong>Fiddle leaf (Ficus Lyrata</strong>): a&nbsp;well known and loved plant that is easy to look after, despite its reputation, with just a few hints and tips. Smaller plants can be purchased or taller ones to fill a space, and they will need to be kept away from drafts in a room with lots of light and kept moderately moist.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Snake plant (Sansevieria)</strong>: one of the easiest houseplants to care for that will fill a Christmas tree space with ease. It's the best for easy care with minimal watering requirements and not being fussy about light conditions.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata)</strong>: needing a bright spot and moist compost, but equally, you might find lower light levels suit it well and watering as and when might work too! This one can last for many, many years, so it's worth putting in the place of your Christmas tree.n&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla)</strong>: if you would like to swap your Christmas tree for another Christmas tree that will look very similar, try the Norfolk Island Pine. High humidity and lots of light will keep this in great shape all year.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Weeping fig (Ficus benjamin)</strong>: bright, indirect light and regular watering will keep this growing fast and looking pristine. Less water during the winter months will help, and your weeping fig will thank you for it.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia)</strong>: another plant that will gracefully fill a Christmas tree spot. The Bird of Paradise doesn't need much attention if standing in bright light, without drafts and some humidity. You might have to wait a few years until it flowers, but when it does, it will be well worth the wait!&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Devils Ivy (Pothos)</strong>: instead of filling the space with a standing upright plant, why not try filling the room with a plant hanging from the ceiling instead? Devils Ivy will hang nicely and fill a corner spot without much care needed.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)</strong>: the on-trend plant of the last few years will fill your Christmas tree spot with ease. Give it plenty of bright but not direct light and water every 1 to 2 weeks. Don't forget to dust the leaves to keep them looking shiny gently.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Ravenea rivularis (Majesty palm)</strong>: a&nbsp;majestic palm with long fronds that will fill the space perfectly. All it will need is a bright corner and plenty of water. Keep your eye on it so you can remedy any changes.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>African Milk Tree (Euphorbia trigona)</strong>: minor&nbsp;water requirements and light to low light levels will see this plant well and growing for years.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Find the perfect houseplant to fill your bare space from our collection in store.</p>

Top 10 Houseplants to Replace the Christmas Tree

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>

<p>The New Year is here, and it’s time to get back out into the garden! The weather may still be wintry, but there’s plenty to do in your greenhouse and even outdoors to get ready for a great spring and summer season. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>
<h2>15 gardening tips for January</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Provided the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged, now’s a good time to plant bare-root shrubs, trees, roses and fruit bushes. Bare root plants are great value for money, perfect if you’re planning to plant a new hedge or extend a shrub border.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you didn’t plant snowdrop bulbs last autumn, buy some that are in flower and plant them now. Snowdrops establish much more quickly when planted ‘in the green’ than bulbs.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Cut back any old perennial stems and leaves that have gone soggy in the winter rains and add them to your compost heap.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Cut off any old tatty hellebore foliage and dispose of it. Getting rid of these leaves helps stop the spread of hellebore black spot (a fungal disease) and makes it easier to see the flowers. Leave the fresh new foliage to grow.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Keep deadheading winter pansies, and they’ll reward you with a flush of flowers in spring.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you haven’t pruned your climbing roses, you can still do it now, and it’s easier to see what needs cutting when the plants are dormant.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Now’s also an excellent time to prune shrub roses before they start growing, removing all weak and spindly growth and cutting back main branches by one-third above an outward-facing bud.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prune apple and pear trees, removing any dead, damaged or crossing branches and reducing congestion. Aim to create a tree with an open vase shape.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Give wisteria its January pruning – cut back last year’s shoots to 2-3 buds from the main framework.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Force rhubarb plants by covering them with a bucket. This will encourage the growth of delicious tender new stems for delicious desserts.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Tidy up the greenhouse and clean out all those old flower pots so that you’re ready to go when it’s time to sow seeds in spring.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Recycle your Christmas tree by putting it out for your local council collection, or chop it up and shred the branches to make mulch for your shrub borders.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Keep bird feeders and birdbaths topped up to see your garden birds through the last cold months of winter.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Harvest the last of your parsnips and leeks for satisfying winter stews</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>When the weather’s too cold and wet to go outside, get yourself a cup of tea, plan this year’s vegetable crops and order your seeds. And don’t forget to order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic bulbs for spring planting.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>We have a fantastic range of plants, seeds and gardening kits in our centres, so visit us soon and get your gardening year off to a great start!</p>

15 January gardening tips

<p>Here are a few <strong>guidelines on pruning shrubs and trees in winter</strong>.</p>

<p>Winter and early spring are often a good time to do a bit of pruning. When the trees are bare, it&rsquo;s easier to see their shape and work out which branches to remove. However, it&rsquo;s not the right time for pruning all plants, so it&rsquo;s always a good idea to check the specific requirements of your plants before you start. Here are a few <strong>guidelines on pruning shrubs and trees in winter</strong>.</p>

<h2>Basic pruning tips</h2>

<p>Remembering these few basic rules will keep you safe while you work and give you better results:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Make sure your tools are sharp &ndash; a clean cut will cause less damage to branches and heal faster, so there&rsquo;s less chance of your plants becoming infected by diseases.</li>
	<li>Work slowly and stand back frequently to look at what you&rsquo;ve done and assess what still needs removing.</li>
	<li>Take care when working at height. It&rsquo;s a good idea to have someone else with you when you&rsquo;re working on a ladder. And don&rsquo;t take risks &ndash; if the job is too big, call in a professional tree surgeon.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Pruning deciduous and evergreen shrubs</h2>

<p>Deciduous shrubs drop their leaves in autumn, storing food reserves in their roots over winter, ready for spring. This means that winter pruning tends to result in vigorous spring growth. However, some deciduous shrubs flower on the previous year&rsquo;s growth, so pruning these in winter would mean no flowers in the following year. As a general rule of thumb, deciduous shrubs that flower in spring (e.g. forsythia and Japanese quince) should be pruned straight after flowering. Shrubs that flower in late summer and autumn (e.g.hydrangea, buddleja and fuchsia) can usually be pruned in late winter or early spring. There are exceptions to every rule, though, so check the specific requirements of your plants before you get out your secateurs.</p>

<p>Evergreen shrubs are best pruned soon after they have finished flowering. Hard pruning of evergreens can usually be done in late winter or early spring, but as always, look the plant up first to check on pruning requirements.</p>

<h2>Five trees and shrubs to prune in winter or early spring</h2>

<ol>
	<li>Shrub roses &ndash; remove damaged and crossing branches and cut the main branches down by a third, just above an outward-facing bud.</li>
	<li>Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) don&rsquo;t need routine pruning, but if you need to remove a branch, do it in winter to avoid excessive &lsquo;bleeding&rsquo; of sap.</li>
	<li>Buddleja &ndash; cut back in early spring to solid buds about 30cm above ground level.</li>
	<li>Dogwoods (Cornus sanguinea and sericea) &ndash; cut back in early spring to 5-7.5cm (2-3in) above ground level to encourage brightly coloured new shoots for next winter.</li>
	<li>Apple trees &ndash; prune in winter, aiming to create a wineglass-shaped framework of branches.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>We have a wide range of pruning tools and other garden equipment in our centre, so visit us soon for all your gardening needs!</p>

Pruning trees and shrubs in winter

<p><strong>Protect your plants this winter</strong> with these top tips.</p>

<p>Many of the plants in our gardens have come to us from lands with kinder climates than our own. This allows our gardens to look like a tropical paradise in summer, but it also means that many of our plants need help to cope with cold weather. <strong>Protect your plants this winter</strong> with these top tips.</p>

<h2>How to protect your plants this winter</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>If you&rsquo;re not sure whether a plant needs winter protection, look it up. The Royal Horticultural Society has drawn up a hardiness rating system, classifying plants by the minimum temperature they can cope with. Fully hardy plants (classified as H5) are hardy down to -15&deg;C (5&deg;F). Frost-hardy plants (H3) are typically hardy down to -5C (23&deg;F) and will probably survive a light frost but are likely to need winter protection in all but mild areas. Tender plants (H2 and H1) will not survive temperatures below 0&deg;C (32&deg;F) and must be kept frost-free in winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>One of the biggest dangers for container plants in winter is the compost in the pots becoming waterlogged and possibly frozen. This will kill off even the hardiest plants, so any banks left outdoors over winter should be raised on pot feet to ensure they drain well. In very cold areas, it&rsquo;s also worth wrapping pots in bubble wrap or fleece for extra insulation.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Move tender plants indoors in winter. If they have lost their leaves and are entirely dormant, they can be stored in a frost-free shed, but evergreen plants will still need light and should be kept in a greenhouse or conservatory or on a sunny windowsill. Line your greenhouse windows with bubble wrap to insulate them and reduce the amount of electricity needed to heat the space.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cover winter crops like salad leaves, spinach and chard with cloches or horticultural fleece to allow you to keep harvesting.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>In mild areas of the country, apply a thick layer of mulch such as compost or leaf mould to protect tender bulbs like dahlias and gladioli through winter. In icy areas, it&rsquo;s best to dig them up once the first frost has killed the foliage and store them in a cool, dry, frost-free place over winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strong winter winds can damage plants, so tie in climbing plants and check stakes and tree ties are secure. Cut tall shrub roses down by a third to protect their roots against damage from wind rock.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Think long-term when choosing plants for your garden. Plants such as salvias, lavender, and rosemary from Mediterranean climates will struggle to survive winters in heavy clay soils. Improve drainage by digging in compost or other organic material before planting, or plant them in pots instead.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Let us help you get your garden ready for winter. Whether it&rsquo;s mulch, pot feet or winter plants you&rsquo;re after, you&rsquo;ll find all you need in our centre!</p>

7 ways to protect your plants in winter

<p>Follow our top <strong>15 gardening tips for December</strong> and get your garden ready for a great spring.</p>

<p>The garden might look a bit bare this month, but there are still crops to harvest, shrubs and bulbs to plant, and plans to make for next year when the weather permits. Follow our top <strong>15 gardening tips for December</strong> and get your garden ready for a great spring.</p>

<h2>Top gardening tips for December</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>As long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged, you can still plant in December, and it&rsquo;s an excellent time to plant deciduous hedging shrubs and bare-root roses.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>While you&rsquo;re planting shrubs, why not choose some for winter colour and scent? Christmas box (Sarcococca confusa), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and witch hazel (Hamamelis) all look and smell gorgeous at this time of year.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>There&rsquo;s still time to plant spring bulbs like crocuses, daffodils and tulips for masses of colourful flowers in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Wait until after the first frosts to harvest your parsnips, and they&rsquo;ll taste sweeter. Sprouts and winter cabbage should also be ready to harvest this month, just in time for the festive season.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Lift and divide large clumps of rhubarb to rejuvenate the plants and give you delicious desserts for years to come. Make sure each new section has an &lsquo;eye&rsquo; or large bud to provide next year&rsquo;s shoots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you need to prune Japanese maples, now&rsquo;s the time while they are dormant.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune climbing roses, removing any dead wood, tying in new shoots and cutting back flowered side shoots by two-thirds of their length.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once dahlia foliage has been blackened by frost, dig up the tubers. Cut off the stems, rinse off the soil, leave them to dry, then place them in trays filled with compost and store them in a cool, dry place over winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Rake fallen leaves off your lawn so that sunlight can reach the grass. Clear fallen leaves from beds, too, as they can shelter slugs and snails.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Raise your patio pots on pot feet to improve drainage and prevent waterlogging, which could kill plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Check that tree ties and stakes are secure and stand up to high winter winds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Top up bird feeders regularly with high-energy seeds and defrost frozen birdbaths so birds can drink and keep their feathers in good shape.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Don&rsquo;t make your garden too tidy this winter. Leave some dried flower stems standing to provide shelter for overwintering insects, and make a log pile in a hidden corner to give frogs, toads and beetles a home.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Get ready for next year&rsquo;s gardening. Clean your tools and get shears, secateurs and lawnmowers sharpened now while you have the time.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather&rsquo;s too cold for gardening, start planning next year&rsquo;s gardening. Settle down in an armchair with a cup of tea and your notebook, and let your imagination run wild!</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need for your garden (or just for the gardener in your life), you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre. Visit us soon to see what&rsquo;s in store now!</p>

15 garden tips for December

<p>One important gardening activity for the winter is to <strong>get your trees and shrubs planted</strong>. Here&rsquo;s why:</p>

<p>There are many reasons&nbsp;<strong>why winter is a great time to plant trees</strong>. It can seem like there isn&rsquo;t much to do in the garden during the colder winter months, but there is always a reason to get outside no matter what the weather is like when you have a garden. You might need to top up your bird feeders, break the ice on your pond for wildlife to get in and out or brush heavy snow off tree branches. One important gardening activity for the winter is to get your trees and shrubs planted. Here&rsquo;s why:</p>

<ol>
	<li>Bare root trees</li>
	<li>Heeling in</li>
	<li>Time to establish</li>
</ol>

<h2>Bare root availability is why winter is a great time to plant trees</h2>

<p>During the winter months, you will find not only many container-grown trees available, often at a sale price, but also bare root trees become available to purchase. Often these cost less because they don&rsquo;t have any soil around the roots and are therefore easy to transport and come without a pot. Bare root trees are planted when they are dormant, usually from November to March, and the roots may be denser as well plus, they are much easier to plant without the bigger rootball and pot.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why winter is a great time to plant trees is because you don&rsquo;t have to rush</h2>

<p>November to March is a long period, and as long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or overly wet, you have plenty of time to plant trees outside. While bare-root trees and shrubs need to be planted ideally within a week of purchase, they can be &lsquo;heeled&rsquo; in. So if you aren&rsquo;t quite ready to get planting where they will eventually grow, dig a trench and lay the roots into the trench with the stems up against the side, then backfill to cover the bases and water well. This means the tree will be protected and absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil instead of drying out. If you have container grown plants, they can stay in the container until ready, but don&rsquo;t let them dry out.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Providing time to establish is why winter is a great time to plant trees</h2>

<p>The soil is moist during the winter months, giving the roots just what they need to establish before the weather heats up. It is stressful for a tree to be freshly planted outside in the heat in the summer months, and it will need constant watering. So allowing it time to settle over winter is perfect. Energy will be directed towards the roots instead of leaf and bud formation and will grow substantially enough before spring and summer.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Shop our range of trees for winter planting in store.&nbsp;</p>

Why winter is a great time to plant trees

<p>We&rsquo;ve gathered together the latest research on <strong>growing plants in peat-free compost</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Peat-free composts</strong> are big news these days, as gardeners become increasingly aware of the importance of preserving our peat bogs. Fortunately, plenty of alternative composts work just as well and are far more sustainable than peat-based compost. We&rsquo;ve gathered together the latest research on growing plants in peat-free compost.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why use peat-free compost?</h2>

<p>Peat bogs are a very specialised ecosystem supporting a unique range of plants and wildlife. Peat &ndash; partially decayed vegetation from these peat bogs &ndash; is a vast carbon store and takes thousands of years to develop. Currently, gardeners use the equivalent of 24 million wheelbarrows of peat annually, so it is being used up far faster than it can possibly be replaced, destroying a precious resource as well as contributing to climate change. Because of this, research into alternative growing media has been going on for many years, and there are now plenty of good peat-free options available. Growing plants in these composts sometimes require changes to how we sow, water and feed plants, but the results can be just as good as increasing peat-based composts.</p>

<h2>Alternatives to peat-based composts</h2>

<p>Peat-free composts are usually a blend of different raw materials to achieve good drainage, nutrient retentiveness and water holding capacity. Here are some of the most common materials used:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Coir &ndash; a waste product from the coconut processing industry with good water-retaining ability. It is low in nutrients but makes a good seed compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Wool &ndash; wool-based composts drain well but need added nutrients from other sources. They are an excellent slow-release source of nitrogen.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted green waste &ndash; this is produced from green garden waste. Too rich to use on its own, it can be added to soil or other compost mixes to create potting compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted bracken &ndash; bracken compost is an effective use of this invasive plant which can be a problem to farmers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Composted bark &ndash; a by-product of the timber industry, with good drainage qualities.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Inorganic materials like grit, sharp sand and perlite are mixed with peat-free composts to improve the structure and allow good drainage.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Tips for growing plants in peat-free compost</h2>

<p>Peat-free composts often behave differently from traditional peat-based versions, so follow these tips to get the best from them.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Check the moisture levels in the compost with a fingertip to assess whether you need to change your watering regime. Coir-based composts can look dry on the surface even though they are still wet, so check before watering.</li>
	<li>Check the compost packaging information for details of any fertilisers required. Different composts have different nutrient levels, depending on what they are made from.</li>
	<li>Cheaper peat-free composts are likely to contain high levels of composted green waste, so they are best mixed with soil rather than used on their own.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to know more about composts, come in and talk to us. We have a great range of compost and soil improvers in the centre, and our staff are always happy to advise.</p>

Growing plants in peat-free compost

<p>This <strong>how-to grow Hellebores guide</strong> will help you to produce the best Helleborus in the neighbourhood!</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to grow Hellebores guide</strong> will help you to produce the best Helleborus in the neighbourhood! Evergreen Hellebores are great plants for a shady garden, and because they flower during the colder winter months, they are lovely to see when there isn&rsquo;t much else blooming. The other benefit to growing Hellebores is they aren&rsquo;t enjoyed much by pests such as deer and rabbits. They are a treat for any garden are exceptionally easy to maintain.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>soil&nbsp;</li>
	<li>pruning</li>
	<li>companions</li>
	<li>other care</li>
</ol>

<h2>How to grow Hellebores in the right soil&nbsp;</h2>

<p>They will grow well in well-drained soil, which is primarily moist and in part shade. During prolonged dry spells, give them some water, but Hellebores are more drought tolerant once they are established. Ideally, ensure the soil has been given an application of well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser during early spring to help them along.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Pruning methods to learn how to grow Hellebores&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The plants are evergreen, but the foliage can look messy sometimes, so you can prune back before new growth appears. Also, you can remove a few of the leaves to allow the flowers to be seen better. Prune the old flowers stems after they have flowered, although if you leave them to set seed, they will spread, and you will have more Hellebores! Remove all dead or diseased foliage during autumn or before if they look particularly messy.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to grow Hellebores with companion plants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Hellebores can look pretty all on their own, but for a shady garden or area, they are excellent companion plants for many other shade-tolerant plants. Create a woodland vibe with Ferns, Pulmonaria and Hostas. For a blast of colour, add in Campanula, hardy Geraniums and Epimedium.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Other care for your Hellebores&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Hellebore plants don&rsquo;t tend to grow so well in containers, but for a seasonal display, you could grow them in a container and then move them into a garden border afterwards. They aren&rsquo;t keen on being divided, and allowing them to naturalise is a great way to fill a space anyway. There are many different colours from white to pink and dark purple so you can enjoy them no matter what style you are going for in your garden. They also suit contemporary and cottage gardens, attracting early pollinating insects.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Growing Hellebores is very easy. Try some of these varieties:&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Helleborus Niger - the Christmas Rose (white)</li>
	<li>Helleborus x hybridus Golden Lotus (yellow petals with pink edges)</li>
	<li>Helleborus Double Ellen Picotee (frilly petals with purple trim)</li>
</ul>

<p>We have a selection of Hellebores for you to choose from in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow Hellebores

<p>We often think of spring as the primary gardening season, but <strong>autumn is really the time to get outside</strong>. Here&#39;s everything you need to know about gardening in autumn.</p>

<p>We often think of spring as the primary gardening season, but <strong>autumn is really the time to get outside</strong>. Here&#39;s everything you need to know about gardening in autumn.</p>

<h2>Six reasons why autumn&#39;s the best time for gardening</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn&#39;s the best time to plant shrubs and trees, as the soil is warm from the summer, and there&#39;s usually plenty of rain. Although growth slows down, the roots of newly planted trees will still grow (at a slower pace) through winter, and they&#39;ll be ready when the new growth starts in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn rain and cooler temperatures mean new plants need less additional watering. As well as making life easier for gardeners, this is also the most waterwise way to plant. Rather than spending time and lots of water on watering new plants in spring, plant them in autumn and let the weather do it for you.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When you&#39;re gardening in autumn, you can still remember all those jobs you noticed in summer and planned to get done when you had a minute. By next spring, unless you&#39;re organised enough to have written them down, you might not remember how you wanted to add more colour to a border or move a plant that got too big, and by the time it becomes obvious again, you&#39;re too busy! So get onto those jobs in autumn, and when spring comes, you&#39;ll be all set.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn brings the chance to turn all those fallen leaves into leaf mould, which is a fantastic soil improver. Rake the leaves into a pile or bin bags and leave them somewhere out of sight for a year or so to rot down. As well as making a fantastic soil improver, this also reduces the amount of green waste in your council bin, helping to reduce carbon emissions associated with waste collection.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Autumn&#39;s the best time to plant spring bulbs. You can about get away with it in early winter too, but autumn&#39;s ideal, and it&#39;s the perfect antidote to the end-of-summer blues. Rather than getting gloomy as the days grow short and the clocks go back, you can start looking forward to the first signs of your new bulbs appearing in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give your lawn a bit of care and attention in autumn, and you&#39;ll reap the rewards next year. An autumn feed revitalises your grass after summer and prepares it for the cold winter weather. Scarify to get rid of moss and thatch, allowing water to percolate better into the soil and aerate to improve drainage. Early autumn&#39;s also an excellent time to sow seed, while the temperatures are still warm enough for it to germinate and there&#39;s less foot traffic, giving the grass all winter to get going.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>There&#39;s plenty to do in your garden this autumn, and we&#39;ve got everything you need in our centres. Visit us to stock up on all your essential autumn garden supplies!</p>

Why autumn's the best time to garden

<p>Choosing suitable shrubs for borders and hedging is an effective way to give your garden a whole new look.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Shrubs and hedging are core components in any garden. Used to add structure, they can define boundaries and create a framework for your outdoor design. What&rsquo;s more &ndash; they&rsquo;re typically low-maintenance and robust, which makes them a great option for enthusiastic and reluctant gardeners alike!</p>

<p>With so many varieties to choose from, finding the right hedging plants and shrubs can be tricky. You&rsquo;ll want to ensure that the species you plant are well-suited to the environment and provide the visual impact you&rsquo;re looking for. For inspiration, take a look at these six top hedging plants and shrubs now:</p>

<h2>1. Laurel</h2>

<p>Laurel &ndash; or <em>prunus laurocerasus</em> &ndash; is an excellent choice of hedging shrub. As an evergreen plant, it provides good coverage all year round and will continue to provide clean lines even during autumn and winter. In addition to this, laurel can thrive in both sunshine and shade, which makes it a versatile option that can be used virtually anywhere in your garden.</p>

<p>While laurel typically grows well in any type of soil, you can add a layer of compost to sandy or heavy soil when planting to make it easier for laurel to become established. As laurel can grow 15-60cms each year, regular pruning will help ensure the hedge keeps its shape and grows back thicker. They can be cut back quite severely without causing damage to the plant.</p>

<h2>2. Box</h2>

<p>Also known as <em>buxus sempervirens,</em> box is one of the most popular hedging plants in the UK. Characterised by its small, dense, evergreen leaves, box hedging is an easy way to incorporate shrubs into your garden. Generally, box plants only grow around 10-15cm each year, so you may want to plant mature shrubs if you&rsquo;re looking for instant boundary lines. In recent years Buxus has become badly effected by Box caterpillar moth which can devour a plant in a couple of days.&nbsp; You can install moth traps and treatments but these have to be replaced regularly to keep the pests away.&nbsp; We no longer recommend Buxus due to these issues.&nbsp; Instead we recommend planting Ilex which is similar to Buxus (the leaves are a little bit bigger) but they are not effected by the moth and have better resistance to blight.&nbsp; If you only want your hedge to be 2-3ft tall you can also consider Euonymus which looks similar and has a lush green evergreen leaf.</p>

<p>Box hedging can be planted in almost any soil, although it doesn&rsquo;t tolerate very wet or windy conditions brilliantly. Despite this, it&rsquo;s super easy to maintain and shade tolerant, so you won&rsquo;t need to do much to keep it healthy. Simply prune box hedging back to keep the desired shape and height and you&rsquo;ll have the perfect addition to your garden!</p>

<h2>3. Rockrose</h2>

<p>If you want to add a pop of summer colour to your hedging, rockrose is a great alternative to classic shrubbery. Throughout late spring and summer, it will be filled with bowl-shaped blooms in purple, red, yellow, pink, or white but their dense foliage and narrow leaves will last all year round.</p>

<p>Native to the Mediterranean, Rockrose does need a decent amount of sunshine to thrive, so avoid planting it in shady locations. As it is very drought-tolerant, it won&rsquo;t need frequent watering and will do well in sandy, chalky, or even clay soil.</p>

<p>During early spring, prune rockrose to facilitate optimal growth but, apart from this, it shouldn&rsquo;t require much maintenance at all.&nbsp; Rockrose can reach 1m-1.5m in height and will spread horizontally, as well as growing vertically. This makes it an ideal option for borders, rockeries, courtyards, and suntraps.</p>

<h2>4. Beech</h2>

<p>If you&rsquo;re looking for a fast-growing hedging shrub that will provide privacy, create boundaries, and look sensational, <em>fagus sylvaticus</em> is the answer! Although beech hedges are deciduous, their winter leaves tend to stick around until new growth arrives in spring, which makes them a great option as a hedging shrub.</p>

<p>Ideal for formal hedges or well-manicured gardens, you may want to opt for a purple beech hedge if you want to add a little more colour to your outdoor space.</p>

<p>Beech hedges grow well in either full sun or partial shade, but it does require well-drained soil, so avoid planting it in clay or wet soil where possible. Beech hedges can reach 1m-5m in height and grow at a rate of around 30-60cm per year. Due to this, you will need to keep hedges maintained to prevent excess growth. Trim in late summer or early autumn to ensure maximum winter coverage.</p>

<h2>5. Lavender</h2>

<p>Instantly recognisable, <em>lavandula angustifolia</em>, is known for its dazzling purple flowers and rich scent. Lavender shrubs can grow to around 1m in height and flower in the summer, although they retain their foliage through every season.</p>

<p>Although lavender shrubs are relatively hardy, they do prefer full sun, so try to avoid planting them in shady conditions. Similarly, lavender plants won&rsquo;t tolerate wet or waterlogged soil, so choose a spot with sandy or well-drained soil. Prune immediately after the shrub has flowered or in early to mid-spring if you want shrubs to flower in the summertime.</p>

<h2>6. Privet</h2>

<p>An old favourite and has fallen out of fashion in the last 20yrs.&nbsp; It is a great hedging plant though and should be considered for long runs of hedge to keep costs low.&nbsp; It is good value for money and grow quite quickly, growing over a foot a year once established. It is very resilient and can be cut back severely if needed.&nbsp; You can also make shapes and arches with it!</p>

<h2>Planting Shrubs and Hedging</h2>

<p>Before planting, soak bare-root plants in water for at least an hour or water container-grown shrubs. You&rsquo;ll need to dig a hole that&rsquo;s big enough to contain the rootball but, if you&rsquo;re planting a hedge, it&rsquo;s generally easier to dig a trench and then position each rootball evenly.</p>

<p>Surround the rootball with soil and firm the soil around the trunk of the shrub and water them generously. Throughout the first year, new shrubs and hedging should be watered regularly. To optimise growth, add compost or manure once per year, either in spring or autumn.</p>

<p>No matter what type of garden you&rsquo;re cultivating, shrubs and hedging can create a stunning visual impact and increase the functionality of the space. If you&rsquo;d like advice or assistance with hedging or shrubs, simply get in touch with our team today.</p>

6 great shrubs and hedging plants

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Now it&rsquo;s time to <strong>start planting spring-flowering bulbs</strong> to make sure you get that splash of colour in spring next year.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Now it&rsquo;s time to <strong>start planting spring-flowering bulbs</strong> to make sure you get that splash of colour in spring next year. Gardeners always have to look toward the seasons ahead, and this time of year can be a busy one for gardeners everywhere. As summer comes to an end and we head into autumn, look ahead to the time of year where nature seems to wake up after a cold winter. There&rsquo;s nothing more wonderful than seeing Daffodils, Tulips, Alliums, Hyacinths and many more spring bulbs blooming as the garden springs into life again.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Plan what you will grow before you start planting spring-flowering bulbs&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Think about what you would like to grow next year. Will you have a bed full of spring bulbs and then plant with annuals, or will you plant your bulbs around shrubs and perennials? Consider your space, and then think about the colours you would like to grow. Would you like all pink or all calming whites? Perhaps you&rsquo;d like a mixture of all kinds of colours. Have a plan in mind, and that will make your bulb choices much easier.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Start planting spring-flowering bulbs anytime from now</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Autumn is a hectic time in the garden, clearing away plants, finishing the summer harvests, mulching the soil and composting. One of the most lovely jobs is planting bulbs, and most can be planted anytime from September to November as long as the ground isn&rsquo;t frozen or waterlogged. Tulips can be planted until Christmas, so there is plenty of time, but if you want to get ahead, why not start now.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">How to start planting spring-flowering bulbs&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Bulbs need to be hidden under the soil, where they store energy through the winter until they pop up through the ground and give us so much spring joy when they bloom.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span>Planting depths are usually about three times the size of the bulb, but you can also use this guide to know how deep you should plant the bulbs:</span></p>

<ul dir="ltr">
	<li><span>Tulips 20cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Iris 10cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Daffodils 15cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>large Alliums 30cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>smaller Alliums 15cm,</span></li>
	<li><span>Crocus, Snowdrops and Hyacinths 10cm.</span></li>
</ul>

<p dir="ltr"><span>Too deep may mean they won&rsquo;t flower but too shallow, you may find them eaten by squirrels!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Start planting spring-flowering bulbs in containers&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">It doesn&rsquo;t matter if you have a small space. Bulbs grow really well in pots and containers as well. You can plant lots into one pot for a bustling display and even create a &lsquo;bulb lasagne&rsquo; where you plant a few of each bulb at the correct depths in the same container. So, for example, Tulips at the bottom on a layer of compost, then cover with compost and plant Daffodil bulbs and so on.&nbsp;</span>Always plant late-blooming bulbs first and early-blooming flower bulbs on top of the container.</p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">There are so many varieties to choose from. The options are endless, and you can create a gorgeous spring display.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d6b5d4e3-7fff-7273-a130-f46c97a5b8e6">Pick from our selection of spring bulbs in store to glam up your garden.</span></p>

Start planting spring flowering bulbs

<p>If you&rsquo;re planning on <strong>planting a lot of shrubs or trees, bare-root</strong> plants are ideal. Here&#39;s how to plant bare-root shrubs and trees.</p>

<p>If you&rsquo;re planning on planting a lot of shrubs or trees, bare-root plants are ideal. Grown in the ground rather than in containers, bare-root plants are dug up and sold between November to March while they are dormant. They&rsquo;re cheaper than container-grown plants and don&rsquo;t use plastic pots, so they&rsquo;re better for the environment too. Provided they&rsquo;re planted correctly, bare-root plants will grow into strong, healthy plants. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done:</p>

<h2>How to plant bare-root shrubs and trees</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Plan ahead. Bare root plants need to be planted as soon as possible to stop the roots from drying out, so prepare the planting area beforehand by clearing weeds and stones and add compost or well-rotted farmyard manure to improve the soil structure.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you can&rsquo;t plant your bare root shrub or tree straight away, store it carefully so that the roots don&rsquo;t dry out. If it&rsquo;s only going to be stored for a few days, wrap the roots in damp sacking or newspaper and place the plant somewhere cool and dark. Keep the sacking or paper damp.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It is best to plant as soon as possible so the root ball doesn&#39;t dry out. If it&rsquo;s going to be several weeks before you can plant, heel your plants in by digging a trench, placing the plants with their roots in the trench and backfilling with soil. If the ground is frozen or waterlogged, pot the plants up in large pots filled with compost, taking care not to bend the roots. If this isn&#39;t possible, water the root balls with a hose and keep them damp.&nbsp; Don not water though if the weather is frosty as this could damage the roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Before you plant a bare root plant, soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or soak with a hose pipe.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>To plant your bare root shrub or tree, dig a square hole the depth of the rootball and 2-3 times its width. Digging a square hole encourages the roots to spread out into the surrounding soil, rather than simply to circle round as they might do in a round hole. It is also a good idea to add some organic matter to the hole or a good quality compost to provide nutrients. Adding bonemeal to the soil/ compost in the hole will also encourage root growth.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Leave a mound of soil at the centre of the hole and place the base of the plant on this, allowing the roots to drape over the mound.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>You should be able to see a &lsquo;tidemark&rsquo; on the plant&#39;s trunk that will show the previous soil level. When planting, ensure that the plant is at the same level in the soil as previously. Planting too deep can cause the trunk to rot, killing the plant. (The exception to this rule is bare-root roses, which are best planted deep.)&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>There&rsquo;s no need to add fertiliser when planting, but a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi over the roots can help the plant establish a good root system.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Backfill with soil and firm down gently with the heel of your boot.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add a stake if necessary to support tall trees. Trees less than 1m tall don&rsquo;t usually need staking.&nbsp; For larger trees (over 3m) you might want to consider using a ground anchor and strap system to prevent the tree from being blown over which&nbsp;could damage the roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water well after planting to settle the soil, and water regularly during the first year after planting.&nbsp; We recommend installing an automatic drip irrigation system.&nbsp; Program this to come on for 30mins a day either at night or early hours in the morning.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Now&rsquo;s a great time to plant shrubs and trees, and you&rsquo;ll find everything you need at&nbsp;our garden centre, so why not visit us?&nbsp; We can also source and deliver large orders of hedging plants.&nbsp;</p>

Planting bare root shrubs and trees

<p>As the seasons change and colder weather arrives, it&rsquo;s time to prep your garden for what&rsquo;s to come. By getting your garden ready for autumn, you&rsquo;re also being proactive about protecting plants, shrubs, and lawns from succumbing to damage in the winter. With this in mind, take a look at these eight top tips for preparing your garden for autumn:</p>

<h2>1. Remove Overhanging Tree Branches</h2>

<p>If you have trees on your property, be sure to assess them carefully throughout autumn. If any branches are overhanging or look unstable, it&rsquo;s a good idea to remove them now. As the weather gets windier, additional damage could occur, which may result in branches falling. By removing them now and ensuring trees are stable, you can avoid any accidents or property damage, as well as making sure that trees grow healthily.</p>

<h2>2. Trim Hedges</h2>

<p>Knowing when to trim hedges is important if you want them to look their best and last for as long as possible. For the first two years, new hedges require &lsquo;formative pruning&rsquo;, which helps to shape them. Following this, maintenance trimming is all that&rsquo;s required to keep hedges in great condition.</p>

<p>Formal hedges typically need to be trimmed twice or three times per year and spring and autumn are the ideal times to do this. Informal hedges may only need to be pruned once or twice per year, so add this to your autumn garden checklist.</p>

<h2>3. Clear Out Greenhouses and Growing Frames</h2>

<p>Greenhouses and garden growing frames are excellent ways of nurturing young plants and achieving optimal growth. As the temperatures drop, you may rely more heavily on greenhouses and covered garden growing frames, so make sure they&rsquo;re ready for use.</p>

<p>By clearing out the items you no longer need or use and relocating plants that no longer need extra protection, you can make space for new plants to be added over autumn. Leaving fragile plants outside could mean that they won&rsquo;t survive the winter, so clearing out greenhouses and growing frames now will ensure you have the resources and space you need to protect these plants until spring arrives.</p>

<h2>4. Aerate and Treat Lawns</h2>

<p>Optimal lawn care varies depending on the time of year, so you&rsquo;ll want to know how to treat your lawn in autumn to keep it in great condition. You can begin by &lsquo;scarifying&rsquo; or raking the lawn to remove debris and dead grass. This ensures that water and nutrients can be absorbed into the soil more easily and also enhances the appearance of the lawn.</p>

<p>The next step is to aerate the lawn, so that air, water, and nutrients can travel through the roots of the grass. In addition to this, aeration enables the lawn to deal with more extreme weather conditions. If heavy rain causes the grass to get waterlogged, for example, a well-aerated lawn will be able to cope with the additional water more effectively.</p>

<p>Following this, you can apply top dressing, weedkillers, and/or lawn feed to the grass to support it throughout autumn. Choose products that are designed for use at this time of year, so that the lawn benefits from optimal nutrition.</p>

<h2>5. Put Up Stakes and Supports</h2>

<p>As it gets windier and rainier, plants will take more of a battering. For young or fragile plants, it&rsquo;s important to provide them with a little extra support. You can use stakes, trellises, canes, mesh, or covered garden growing frames to ensure that plants remain standing throughout autumn.</p>

<p>If you already have stakes and supports installed in your garden, examine them carefully to ensure they&rsquo;re in good condition. Debris should be removed and supports washed to get rid of excess soil. If necessary, wooden stakes and supports can be treated to preserve them and protect them from unnecessary damage.</p>

<h2>6. Tidy Up Borders</h2>

<p>The borders of your lawn can quickly spread if you don&rsquo;t trim them regularly. When you aren&rsquo;t cutting the grass as often, it&rsquo;s easy to overlook the importance of trimming borders. By making this part of your autumn garden maintenance, you can ensure that they&rsquo;re kept neat and tidy throughout the season. An edging tool or knife makes it easy to keep borders looking pristine, but you could use a spade and a long plank of wood if you don&rsquo;t have an edging tool to hand.</p>

<h2>7. Clean Out Bird Feeders</h2>

<p>If you have bird feeders or nesting boxes in your garden, autumn is a good time to clean and refresh them. Old nesting boxes may contain debris and old nesting materials, so use hot water to get rid of any potential contaminants. Similarly, feeders can be rinsed with water and washed out with a mild detergent before being dried and placed back in the garden.</p>

<p>Birds are more reliant on feeders in autumn and winter, which means that you might need to refill them more often. Cleaning them out and checking them for damage now will ensure you&rsquo;re able to continue feeding the birds and providing them with crucial nutritional support throughout autumn and winter.</p>

<h2>8. Add Colour to Your Garden</h2>

<p>Many people assume that spring is the only suitable time to plant anything new, but this isn&rsquo;t the case. In fact, the extra moisture from autumn rainfall can make it the ideal time to plant hardy annuals and autumn perennials, such as Hylotelephium, Asters, Colchicum autumnale, or Japanese anemones. If you want to inject some late colour into your garden, now is the time to do it!&nbsp; Violas and pansys also make a nice splash of colour to a border or selection of pation pots.</p>

<h2>Creating an Autumn Garden Checklist</h2>

<p>Whether you enjoy looking out over a lush lawn or you love being surrounded by colourful, aromatic blooms, prepping your garden for autumn allows you to get the most of it all year round. By protecting plants and lawns from winter damage, you can be confident that your garden will come bouncing back in spring. What&rsquo;s more &ndash; a little autumn prep means you can enjoy your garden for longer and make the most of balmy evenings and warmer temperatures while they last.</p>

8 Tips for Preparing your Garden for Autumn

<p>A <strong>fruit tree</strong> adds so much to a garden. Many make superb ornamental trees with their beautiful spring blossom, and some can even be grown in a large pot on a patio or balcony. Plus, you get to pick and enjoy your own home-grown fruit! To get you started, here are our top tips on growing fruit trees.</p>

<p>A <strong>fruit tree</strong> adds so much to a garden. Many make superb ornamental trees with their beautiful spring blossom, and some can even be grown in a large pot on a patio or balcony. Plus, you get to pick and enjoy your own home-grown fruit! To get you started, here are our top tips on growing fruit trees.</p>

<h2>Which fruit trees to grow</h2>

<p>For colder areas of the country, apple and plum trees are the best choice, planted in a sunny sheltered spot. In mild areas, there&rsquo;s a wide range of fruit trees to choose from, including pears, cherries and even apricots and nectarines in very sheltered sunny sites. Or, for a touch of Mediterranean atmosphere, try a fig tree, which has beautiful architectural leaves as well as a delicious fruit and will grow well in a large pot.</p>

<h2>Fruit trees for small gardens</h2>

<p>The size of a fruit tree is mainly determined by its rootstock, and trees are grown on very dwarfing, dwarfing, or semi-dwarfing rootstocks that are ideal for small spaces. If you want to grow fruit in a pot, look for a tree on a very dwarfing rootstock &ndash; this information will usually be on the plant label. Ballerina apples are ideal for pots, producing just one central stem with very short spurs bearing fruit. Espaliered or fan-trained fruit trees can be grown against a wall, taking up very little space.&nbsp;</p>

<p>If you only have space for one fruit tree, choose a self-pollinating variety. To produce fruit, some fruit trees need a pollination partner, i.e. another tree of the same type but a different variety. Still, self-pollinating fruit trees can produce fruit even if they are the only tree for miles around. Check the plant label or look up the various online to determine whether your preferred tree is self-pollinating.</p>

<h2>Tips on caring for fruit trees</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Give your fruit tree the best conditions for the best results - fertile, well-drained soil with lots of compost dug in and a sheltered, sunny position.</li>
	<li>If possible, plant fruit trees in winter while they are dormant so the roots can get settled before the tree starts growing again in spring.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Water newly planted trees weekly from spring to autumn, giving them at least one full watering can&rsquo;s worth of water.</li>
	<li>Keep the area around the tree roots clear of weeds and grass that compete with the tree for water and nutrients.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Feed fruit trees annually in late winter or early spring &ndash; different fruit trees need different types of fertiliser, so check your tree&rsquo;s requirements first.</li>
	<li>Mulch around the base of your tree with garden compost, leafmould or well-rotted manure in spring and autumn, making sure the mulch doesn&rsquo;t sit against the tree&#39;s trunk as this could cause rotting.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to grow your own fruit, visit our centre where we have a fantastic range of fruit trees as well as soft fruit and lots more. We&rsquo;re always happy to help with your gardening questions!</p>

Top tips for growing fruit trees

<p>The days might be getting shorter but there&rsquo;s still plenty to enjoy in your garden, with late-flowering plants and stunning autumn foliage setting the garden aglow with colour. It&rsquo;s time to harvest the veg, tidy up the beds and start thinking ahead to next spring. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening jobs for September</strong>.</p>

<p>The days might be getting shorter but there&rsquo;s still plenty to enjoy in your garden, with late-flowering plants and stunning autumn foliage setting the garden aglow with colour. It&rsquo;s time to harvest the veg, tidy up the beds and start thinking ahead to next spring. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening jobs for September</strong>.</p>

<h2>Top 15 Gardening Tips for September</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberry plants will be sending out runners now (long stems with tufts of leaves). If you want extra plants, peg the runners down in the ground to root and grow, otherwise cut them off to conserve the plants&rsquo; energy.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest the last of the maincrop potatoes. Cut off the foliage three weeks before you harvest, then dig up the potatoes and leave them to dry for a few hours before storing in paper bags or hessian sacks.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep picking the last of the French and runner beans. Once the plants have finished, cut them down to ground level, so that the roots can release their stored nitrogen back into the soil.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now&rsquo;s the time to prune summer raspberries, cutting back the fruited canes down to ground level and tying in this year&rsquo;s new canes to supports for next year&rsquo;s crop.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plums, pears and apples should all be ready to harvest now, as well as blackberries and autumn raspberries.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow poppies, nigella, cornflower and other hardy annuals now for a fantastic display of flowers next summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep deadheading dahlias, roses and penstemons for a last flush of flowers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back geraniums and other perennials as they fade. Now&rsquo;s also a good time to lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials like hardy geraniums, hostas and salvias.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, bluebells and other spring bulbs, except tulips which are better planted in November when the weather is colder to reduce the risk of viruses.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>As the grass starts to slow down, mow lawns less often and on a higher blade setting. Keep your lawn healthy by scarifying, aerating and feeding with an autumn lawn feed high in potassium.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pumpkins are starting to ripen now, so remove leaves to give them as much sun as possible. Put a slate tile under the fruits to keep them off damp ground.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water camellias and rhododendrons regularly now while they are developing next year&rsquo;s flower buds.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Protect brassicas like cabbage or kale from pigeons by covering them with netting stretched over canes. Peg the netting down tightly to stop birds getting their feet tangled in it.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Remove the shading from greenhouses as light levels drop.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Raise pots on pot feet to stop them getting waterlogged and frozen over winter.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re planting, picking or cutting back, you&rsquo;ll find everything you need in our centres. Visit us today and let us help you get your garden looking great this autumn.</p>

15 garden tips for September

<p>You can <strong>reduce weeds with mulch</strong> at most times of the year, but there are preferable seasons to help control weeds.</p>

<p>You can <strong>reduce weeds with mulch</strong> at most times of the year, but there are preferable seasons to help control weeds. In fact, mulch can be many different materials used for feeding the soil, decorative purposes, or just to cover an area ahead of a redesign. With so many options available to mulch in your garden or on your allotment, we have put together a list that will help you decide which to use.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>Woodchip</li>
	<li>Organic matter</li>
	<li>Straw / Hay</li>
	<li>Leaves</li>
	<li>Grass clippings</li>
</ol>

<h2>Reduce weeds with mulch and use wood chip</h2>

<p>You can use wood chips that both tidy up pathways and borders, helping to keep the weeds down. Woodchip matches any style garden, but if you are going to be digging a lot (such as on an allotment), you might want to keep the wood chip on the pathways instead of in the soil, so it doesn&rsquo;t get in the way. You can buy bags of wood chips or ask a local tree care company.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Organic matter can reduce weeds with mulch</h2>

<p>This can include animal manure or homemade compost. All can be used to keep weeds down in garden borders and vegetable gardens. Each has various benefits, such as animal manures will feed the soil, most will help retain moisture, but nothing beats homemade compost. You can use your own compost bins for garden and kitchen food waste and make your own, which is immensely satisfying! There are also mulches available that are made solely from plants and will also provide your soil with nutrients.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use straw or hay to reduce weeds with mulch</h2>

<p>Vegetable and fruit beds can be mulched with straw or hay as long as they are weed and seed free. It can really give a vegetable garden a great look, and as it breaks down, it will feed the soil. Please keep it away from stems/trunks as slugs and snails do tend to hide underneath.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Reduce weeds with mulch and use your grass cuttings</h2>

<p>When you have mown your lawn, the clippings can then be used to mulch vegetable beds. They will be full of nitrogen and feed the soil while excluding light from the weeds to stop them from growing.</p>

<p>Mulching keeps the garden not only looking neat but also replenishes the soil and helps to retain moisture. It can also improve the structure of the soil as well.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Visit our centre in %locations% and choose from our mulches in store. Get started in the garden and apply mulch.</p>

Reduce weeds with mulch

<p>This guide is <strong>how to prevent your plants from bolting,</strong> which can be so frustrating and happen really quickly in conditions that aren&rsquo;t ideal for your plants.</p>

<p>This guide is <strong>how to prevent your plants from bolting,</strong> which can be so frustrating and happen really quickly in conditions that aren&rsquo;t ideal for your plants.</p>

<h2>What is bolting?</h2>

<p>Bolting is when an edible plant such as lettuce/salads, some herbs, chard, spinach and other greens quickly go to seed much sooner than planned and usually before you&rsquo;ve been able to harvest. You can often spot the signs of bolting as the plants suddenly grow tall, and you can see flower heads forming. Unfortunately, when that happens, the flavour of the plant&nbsp;changes and makes some of the leaves and other parts bitter, so avoiding bolting is preferable.</p>

<h2>How to prevent your plants from bolting?</h2>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Make sure you plant out in the right season for your crops. Always read the seed packet when you start sowing seeds, harden them off before planting out and keep an eye on them. This will make sure they get the best chance at the right temperatures for them to grow.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It is all about avoiding stressing the plants. Keep them watered consistently rather than as and when, and it can also help if you have seedlings to pot them on before they get root-bound. Think about what the plant needs to thrive and stay on top of it truly.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the weather heats up, some plants get stressed at the rise of heat and the sudden changes, and you will notice they shoot upwards quickly. For many leafy greens that can be prone to this, please give them a little shade to keep them cool and less stressed.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Successional sowing can help keep you with plenty of delicious crops throughout the season rather than relying on one crop for a long season that may be more prone to bolting. Sow more seeds every two weeks between spring and summer, which should mean you are harvesting into late summer/early autumn.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pick the right varieties of plants that are &lsquo;bolt hardy&rsquo; or &lsquo;bolt resistant&rsquo; as they have been bred to cope better in conditions that might usually make them &lsquo;go to seed&rsquo; much quicker. There are many varieties available. Another way is to sow &lsquo;cut and come again&rsquo; varieties where you continuously cut the leaves, and the plant keeps on growing.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plants bolt due to sharp changes in temperature, perhaps the length of the day or any number of other factors that cause plants to feel stressed. If that stress is not just short period plants, grow to produce flowers for seed which is an incredible process of ensuring their species continues to survive.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>For seed varieties and advice, visit our friendly team in store and us.&nbsp;</p>

How to prevent your plants from bolting

<p>Tired of double-digging your vegetable garden? Take heart &ndash; there is another way. <strong>No-dig gardening</strong> is an increasingly popular way of gardening that minimises disturbance to the soil, leaving the natural soil organisms to do the hard work for you.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Tired of double-digging your vegetable garden? Take heart &ndash; there is another way. <strong>No-dig gardening</strong> is an increasingly popular way of gardening that minimises disturbance to the soil, leaving the natural soil organisms to do the hard work for you.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>What is no-dig gardening?</h2>

<p>No-dig gardening is just what it says &ndash; a way of gardening with a minimal amount of digging. It&rsquo;s perfect for allotments and vegetable gardens that would traditionally be dug over every year.</p>

<h2>The benefits of no-dig gardening</h2>

<p>Less digging means less interference with the soil&rsquo;s ecosystem. This allows the natural soil organisms and bacteria to work undisturbed, creating a structure and environment that allows plants to thrive.</p>

<p>No-dig gardening can also reduce weeding &ndash; a big benefit for any gardener! We&rsquo;ve all seen how weeds can spring upon the soil that&rsquo;s been dug over, as the weed seeds are exposed to sunlight and germinate. However, once a no-dig regime has been properly established, there&rsquo;s much less soil disturbance and consequently fewer weeds. The improved soil structure also means that even deep-rooted weeds like bindweed are easier to pull out.</p>

<h2>How to start incorporating no-dig practices into your garden.</h2>

<p>One thing no-dig gardening does require is a large amount of organic material for mulching, so it&rsquo;s best to start with a small area of your vegetable plot and gradually extend it. Well-rotted compost is better than straw or woodchip as it provides fewer places for slugs to hide.</p>

<p>As well as compost, you&rsquo;ll also need something to exclude light from the soil. Cardboard sheets are ideal because they will eventually break down and decompose, or you could use a water-permeable weed membrane.</p>

<ol>
	<li>To clear an area, slash all tall weeds to ground level and compost them. Dig out any woody dock and bramble roots as far as possible.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Lay the cardboard sheets on the soil, cover them with a deep layer of mulch, 15-20cm thick, and tread it down. If you are using a weed membrane, lay the mulch down first, then lay the membrane on top. Leave the area alone for at least 6 months. The result should be rich, friable soil, with any remaining weed roots easy to pull out. Regular hoeing will take care of annual weeds with minimal soil disturbance.</li>
	<li>For areas that are planted up already, apply a layer of mulch at least 15cm thick and firm it down. Eventually, the soil below will become friable as organisms work it, and weeds can be easily pulled up. An annual application of a 5cm layer of mulch in autumn will help keep the soil in good condition.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need to keep your garden in shape, you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre! Visit us today to see our wide range of tools, soil improvers and other great gardening products.</p>

No dig gardening

<p>Here&rsquo;s a brief guide to the differences between summer and winter pruning.</p>

<h2>Why should we prune trees and shrubs?</h2>

<p>Pruning shrubs and trees gives them a better shape, encourages new growth and more fruit and flowers, and removes old deadwood. Knowing when to prune is just as important as knowing which branches to cut, and pruning at different times of the year will affect your plants. Here&rsquo;s a brief guide to the differences between summer and winter pruning.</p>

<h2>Summer pruning</h2>

<p>In general, pruning plants in summer when they are fully growing tends to reduce their vigour, so it&rsquo;s a useful way of restricting the size of over-vigorous trees and shrubs.</p>

<p>Some shrubs and trees need to be pruned in summer rather than at any other time of year. Trees in the Prunus family, including plum, cherry, damson and flowering cherry trees, should only be pruned in summer to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. This is a fungal disease spread by airborne spores in May and September, so summer pruning gives the pruning cuts time to heal while no spores are floating around to infect them.</p>

<p>Spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia, weigela and philadelphus produce flowers on shoots produced the previous year, so pruning too late in the year risks cutting off these shoots, reducing the next year&rsquo;s flowering. Summer pruning gives these plants time to produce next year&rsquo;s shoots before their growth slows down for winter.</p>

<p>Apple and pear trees trained as fans, espaliers and cordons are also pruned in summer, cutting back vigorous new growth so that sunlight can ripen the fruit.</p>

<h2>Winter pruning</h2>

<p>Pruning is often easier in winter, as many trees and shrubs lose their leaves, making it easier to see dead or damaged branches that need to be removed.</p>

<p>Some plants, such as Japanese maples, can only be pruned in winter, as they bleed too much sap if they are pruned during their growing season. Birches are best pruned between autumn and mid-winter to avoid excessive sap bleeding. Free-standing apple and pear trees are pruned in winter to encourage them to produce vigorous new fruit-bearing shoots.</p>

<p>As a rule, winter pruning encourages vigorous new growth in spring, so it&rsquo;s a good time to prune deciduous shrubs that have become overgrown and unproductive (but check first on the specific pruning requirements for each shrub).</p>

<h2>Pruning tips</h2>

<p>Whether you&rsquo;re pruning in summer or winter, these tips will help you achieve the best results:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Make sure your secateurs or loppers are sharp so that they make a clean cut.</li>
	<li>When pruning, cut just above a bud, making a cut slanting away from the bud so that rainwater runs off the cut face easily.</li>
	<li>Work slowly and keep standing back to check how much you&rsquo;ve cut off. Remember, you can&rsquo;t put it back!</li>
</ul>

<p>Need new pruning tools? You&rsquo;ll find secateurs, loppers and a range of other tools in our centre, as well as everything else you need to keep your garden looking good this summer.</p>

Summer and winter pruning

<p>Growing your own fruit and vegetables can be very rewarding. But sometimes, it can also feel like a battle, with every creature in your garden just waiting for the chance to devour your carefully nurtured plants. Here are our <strong>top tips on keeping your crops safe</strong> from everything that wants to eat them.</p>

<p>Growing your own fruit and vegetables can be very rewarding. But sometimes, it can also feel like a battle, with every creature in your garden just waiting for the chance to devour your carefully nurtured plants. Here are our <strong>top tips on keeping your crops safe</strong> from everything that wants to eat them.</p>

<h2>Slugs and snails</h2>

<p>These slimy critters are consistently top of gardeners&rsquo; lists of most hated garden pests, coming in under cover of darkness and demolishing plants and seedlings.&nbsp; Keep on top of them with these tips:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Untidy gardens give slugs and snails plenty of places to hide, so clear out the clutter. Remove old leaves and weeds, and put them on your compost heap far away from beds.</li>
	<li>Copper tape around the tops of pots discourages slugs and snails, as they don&rsquo;t like to cross it.</li>
	<li>One of the most effective ways to protect your plants is to go slug-hunting late at night with a torch, remove any slugs and snails from your plants and dispose of them.</li>
	<li>And of course, if nothing else works, there are always slug pellets but do make sure always to use environmentally-friendly pellets.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Rabbits and deer</h2>

<p>Rabbits and deer might look cute, but they&rsquo;re not good news in the vegetable garden, devouring all your precious seedlings. Good fencing is the best defence against these hungry visitors. The fencing should go down 30cm (1ft) below ground to stop rabbits burrowing under it. A 1.2m (4ft) high fence should keep the rabbits out &ndash; for deer, make it 1.8m (6ft) high. Surround young tree seedlings with wire to stop rabbits gnawing the bark and killing the tree.</p>

<p>You can buy chemical repellants for both rabbits and deer at garden centres. They need to be applied regularly to be effective. You can also try soaking cotton wool buds in peppermint oil and leaving them around the garden, replacing them regularly.</p>

<h2>Birds</h2>

<p>Birds will peck at the leaves of vegetables, especially brassicas like kale and cabbage, and strip fruit bushes. To protect soft fruit, net the bushes once the fruit ripens, keeping the netting taut so that small birds don&rsquo;t get tangled in it. Protect brassicas with netting supported on canes or hoops.</p>

<h2>Squirrels</h2>

<p>Squirrels are notorious for digging up spring bulbs planted in pots and beds, especially tulip and early iris bulbs, which they see as a tasty meal especially buried for their convenience.</p>

<p>To deter squirrels, peg down chicken wire over areas planted with bulbs. This stops the squirrels from digging, and the bulbs can grow up through the wire. You can remove the wire once shoots start appearing, as squirrels seem less inclined to dig up bulbs once they have started to grow.</p>

<p>We have a wide range of solutions in the centre to keep your plants safe and healthy, so visit us today. Our staff are always happy to advise!</p>

How to keep your crops safe from animals

<p>August means holidays are here, so take some time to enjoy your garden and reap the benefits of all your hard work throughout the year. There&rsquo;s still plenty to do, though, and our <strong>top gardening tips for August</strong> will help you keep your garden looking great right through summer.</p>

<p>August means holidays are here, so take some time to enjoy your garden and reap the benefits of all your hard work throughout the year. There&rsquo;s still plenty to do, though, and our <strong>top gardening tips for August</strong> will help you keep your garden looking great right through summer.</p>

<h2>Gardening tips for August</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead dahlias, daylilies and petunias regularly to keep them flowering through to autumn. Repeat-flowering roses should be deadheaded too, but leave rugosa roses alone to develop their brightly coloured hips for winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Camellias and rhododendrons need regular watering now, as they&rsquo;re producing the buds for next year&rsquo;s flowers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim lavender once the flowers have faded, taking care not to cut back into old wood.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune rambling roses, removing one in three flowering stems, and tying the remaining stems into supports.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give wisteria its summer pruning, cutting back all this year&rsquo;s long whippy shoots to five or six leaves.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out the growing tips of cordon tomatoes, runner beans and squash plants. This will focus the plants&rsquo; energies on producing more fruit.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim herbs like thyme, mint and basil to give you the last flush of delicious new leaves before autumn arrives.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Strawberry plants will be producing runners now. Peg these down in the ground or in little pots, and they will grow into new plants for next spring. If you don&rsquo;t need any new plants, cut the runners off.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Feed container-grown fruit and veg like tomatoes, blueberries and peppers fortnightly with a high potash feed to boost fruit production. Feed citrus plants weekly with a specialist citrus feed.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Net fruit to protect it from birds, pegging the netting down taut to stop birds getting tangled in it, and check it at least twice a day.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>It&rsquo;s time to start harvesting maincrop potatoes. Once their foliage fades, wait a week or two, then lift them carefully with a border fork.&nbsp; Cucumbers, courgettes, runner and French beans, beetroots, onions, carrots and tomatoes should also be ready to harvest now, as will plums, peaches and the first of the apples.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>When the leaves of onions, shallots and garlic turn yellow and flop over, it&rsquo;s time to lift them as well. Put them somewhere warm for a few days to dry out before storing them.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow salads like rocket, mizuna and lamb&rsquo;s lettuce for a supply of tasty leaves through autumn into early winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep mowing the lawn, but raise the blade height in long dry periods to avoid stressing the grass.&nbsp; If you&rsquo;re planning to sow seed or lay new turf in autumn, start preparing the area now to give the soil a chance to settle.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Finally, it might be mid-summer, but it&rsquo;s never too early to think about next year&rsquo;s garden. Spring bulbs will be in the garden centres soon, so start planning your planting now.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you need to keep your garden looking great this summer, you&rsquo;ll find it in our centre. Visit us soon and see what&rsquo;s in store!</p>

15 gardening tips for August

<p>Choose the <strong>best plants for a window kitchen garden</strong> to ensure you have a thriving place in your kitchen full of plants.</p>

<p>Choose the <strong>best plants for a window kitchen garden</strong> to ensure you have a thriving place in your kitchen full of plants. Whether you have a garden and just want to make the most of your space indoors as well, or if you only have indoor space to grow and want to make the most of every inch, this list of plants will help you get botanical inside on any windowsill. There are many options, and in fact, you go traditional or tropical and edible to ornamental with a little plant creativity. Your windowsill will look wonderful.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Herbs are the best plants for a window kitchen garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Undoubtedly herbs are at the top of the list for a kitchen windowsill. Not only can many be grown indoors, but they can be easy to grow, care for and productive. Jut a quick snip, and you have fresh leaves for cooking, baking or drink decorations. Try Basil &lsquo;Purple Ruffels&rsquo; for all of the flavour with deep purple foliage. Coriander is a great herb to grow to garnish curry, and Oregano is a versatile herb for cooking with.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>More best plants for a window kitchen garden include edible flowers&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Herbs aren&rsquo;t the only edibles for a kitchen windowsill. There are many edible flowers that you could also grow inside. Try these:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Violas for cake decorating and popping into ice trays for a summer drink</li>
	<li>Nasturtiums can trail along and down the window ledge to use the flowers and foliage in salads. Best of all, mix these edibles with herbs for a lovely display.</li>
	<li>Nasturtium &lsquo;Ladybird Rose&rsquo; has a pink tinge,</li>
	<li>Discover the bright orange and reds of varieties such as &lsquo;Empress of India&rsquo;.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Microgreens are the best plants for a window kitchen garden</h2>

<p>Some of the most simple, nutritious edibles to grow are microgreens. Great for small spaces, sow plenty of seeds in a seed tray or recycled food container in compost. Keep them moist and harvest when they are no bigger than 10cm. You can grow all kinds of microgreens, from sprouts to radish and beetroot to fenugreek. All delicious, fast-growing and full of nutrition.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Tropical plants are the best plants for a window kitchen garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many tropical plants we can grow in the UK inside rather than outside. Hibiscus, small citrus trees (if you have a larger window space), Oxalis and Orchids are all incredibly colourful and grow well inside. Add in a Fuchsia, and you can even make Fuchsia jam with the berries!&nbsp;</p>

<p>As you can see, you needn&rsquo;t be restricted by space, and there is always more room for plants on any windowsill!&nbsp;</p>

<p>Create your kitchen garden with seeds and plants from in store and get advice from our friendly team.&nbsp;</p>

Best plants for a window kitchen garden 

<p><strong>Alpine troughs</strong> are compact, easy to plant and very low-maintenance, so they&rsquo;re perfect for gardeners short on time or space. As the name suggests, alpine plants come from mountain regions, so they&rsquo;re used to tough conditions.&nbsp; Planting an alpine trough is a great way to appreciate these fascinating plants and provide long-lasting interest for a pot on a patio or balcony. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<p><strong>Alpine troughs</strong> are compact, easy to plant and very low-maintenance, so they&rsquo;re perfect for gardeners short on time or space. As the name suggests, alpine plants come from mountain regions, so they&rsquo;re used to tough conditions.&nbsp; Planting an alpine trough is a great way to appreciate these fascinating plants and provide long-lasting interest for a pot on a patio or balcony. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done.</p>

<h2>What you&rsquo;ll need to plant an alpine trough</h2>

<ul>
	<li>A shallow container or trough with good drainage holes</li>
	<li>Loam-based compost such as John Innes no 2</li>
	<li>Horticultural grit</li>
	<li>Rocks for decoration if available</li>
	<li>Alpine plants</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to plant an alpine trough</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Choose the position for your alpine trough. Most alpines do best in the sun, although some will grow in light shade.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>The key to growing alpines is good drainage &ndash; they hate sitting with their roots in wet soil. Raise your trough on pot feet to improve drainage, and place pot shards or squares of shade netting over the holes to stop them from getting blocked up with compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill the trough with a 50/50 mix of a loam-based compost like John Innes no 2 and horticultural grit to about 2cm below the pot&#39;s lip.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you have a few interesting-looking rocks, arrange them in the compost to create the look of a mountainous environment.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant your alpines among the rocks.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Top-dress with a layer of grit. This keeps in moisture, suppresses weeds and stops the plants from being splashed with mud when it rains.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<h2>Caring for alpine plants</h2>

<p>Most alpines are reasonably drought-tolerant but water the containers during long dry periods to stop the compost from drying out completely. Deadhead plants after they have flowered.</p>

<p>In winter, move the trough into the rain-shadow of a house to shelter it from excessive winter rain.</p>

<h2>Plants for an alpine trough</h2>

<p>There&rsquo;s a wide range of alpine plants to choose from. Here are a few of our favourites:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Armeria (sea thrift)</strong>: Pretty pink flowers bob on slender stems above a mat of evergreen grass-like foliage. Deadhead faded flowers to keep it flowering.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Phlox douglasii Crackerjack</strong>: A semi-evergreen creeping phlox with small leaves, covered in a mass of bright pink flowers in late spring and early summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Sedum cauticola (stonecrop)</strong>: A low, spreading sedum with small rounded blue-green leaves and clusters of small pink flowers in autumn.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Saxifraga (saxifrage)</strong>: Rosettes of fleshy leaves form mats, with clusters of small pink or white flowers float above the leaves on wiry stems. Good for shady spots.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Lewisia</strong>: Colourful star-shaped flowers in late spring and early summer. It prefers damper soil to most other alpines.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Sempervivums</strong>: Evergreen succulents come in a wide range of colours and sizes, forming rosettes of fleshy leaves. Very tough and easy to grow.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>It&#39;s fun starting on a new project this summer. Gardening relieves stress and is healthy at the same time. We have a great range of alpines and other plants in our centre, so visit us soon and get some inspiration for your next gardening project!</p>

How to plant an alpine trough

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Think about <strong>cost effective vegetables to grow</strong>, so not only will your kitchen garden be thriving and full of produce, but you will be sure to save plenty of money as well.</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Think about <strong>cost effective vegetables to grow</strong>, so not only will your kitchen garden be thriving and full of produce, but you will be sure to save plenty of money as well. Purchasing fruit and vegetables from the supermarket can soon add up, but sowing and growing from seed can save plenty of money and be full of fun as you soak up the best of gardening. We have put together this list of vegetables that you can grow easily in your garden and will provide you with plenty of crops. Some are even hard to find in the supermarket!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2>Vegetables you can grow easily in your garden</h2>

<h3><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">1. Courgettes and Pumpkins</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Sow squash seeds, and you are sure to get great germination rates, and as they are easy to grow, you can grow them just about anywhere. Courgettes will keep coming all summer long into autumn and are superb value, full of nutrition and easy to cook with. Pumpkins last ages in storage and can provide you with a lot of autumn and winter food.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">2. Asparagus&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">The spears of delicious and nutritious asparagus can be expensive to purchase from the shops. Hence, creating an asparagus bed is a great way to ensure you have the seasonal goodness of these well sought after vegetables. Plant crowns, and although you will need to wait until year two or even three for a full harvest, it is definitely worth the wait.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">3. Swiss chard&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Probably the easiest leafy greens to grow. Sow seeds; they germinate well and will grow in abundance in the garden or allotment. They can grow in pots and containers as well. If you let some go to seed, you can collect the seeds for the following year or allow them to self-seed and grow where they want to!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>4.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Kale&nbsp;</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">With the many varieties available and the tasty green leaves, Kale is an easy crop to grow and looks great in an autumn/winter garden. Keep the slugs and pigeons off it with some netting, and you will be with a long supply of vegetables for many months.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>5.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Lettuce</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Harvesting lettuce from pots, containers or in beds and borders is satisfying and so easy! Sow seeds successionally every couple of weeks from spring to late summer, then choose winter varieties to get you through the winter, and you can grow almost all year round!&nbsp;</span></p>

<h3>6.&nbsp;<span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Beetroot</span></h3>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Another easy crop to grow that will supply you with plenty of beets that you can pickle and store for a long time. Try Rainbow beetroot for orange and white layers in your jar of pickled beets for an extra special rainbow colour of goodness.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-eac67359-7fff-d9ee-5eff-1e3163089553">Come in store to find all the seeds you need for cost effective vegetable growing.&nbsp;</span></p>

Cost effective vegetables to grow

<p>With so many different types of <strong>Clematis</strong> available, it&rsquo;s possible to have one in flower almost all year round, covering walls, fences and trellises with their spectacular flowers. Here are a few tips to help you get the best out of your clematis.&nbsp;</p>

<p>With so many different types of <strong>Clematis</strong> available, it&rsquo;s possible to have one in flower almost all year round, covering walls, fences and trellises with their spectacular flowers. Here are a few tips to help you get the best out of your clematis.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Clematis groups and pruning</h2>

<p>Clematis are divided into three groups based on their flowering time and their pruning requirements.</p>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Group 1</strong>:&nbsp;These are the winter and early spring flowering clematis, like Clematis cirrhosa, Clematis montana and Clematis armandii. They don&rsquo;t need regular pruning but can be cut back immediately after flowering to keep them to size.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Group 2</strong>: These clematises produce large flowers in early summer and often flower again in late summer. Prune in late winter or early spring, cutting down all stems by at least one-third to above a strong bud lower down the stem.</li>
	<li><strong>Group 3</strong>: These clematises flower late summer and should be hard pruned in late winter or early spring. Cut all stems back to a strong set of buds around 15-45cm (6-18in) above ground level.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<h2>Tips on growing clematis</h2>

<p><strong>The best time to plant a clematis is in spring or early autumn when the soil is warm and moist.</strong> Clematis will cope with a range of soils, but they prefer a fertile, moist but well-drained soil, so dig in some compost or leafmould before planting. Although most clematis flower best in the sun, they like to have their roots in cool, moist soil. Putting slate or pebbles around the base of the plant helps to shade the roots and keep them cool.</p>

<p>When planting large-flowered clematis, plant them deeply so that the top of the rootball is around 7.5cm (3in) below soil level. This encourages the growth of new shoots and can also help the plant recover if it is affected by clematis wilt.&nbsp; To plant a clematis in pots, use a pot at least 45cm in diameter and fill it with a loam-based compost like John Innes no 2. Top dress with pebbles or gravel to keep the clematis roots cool.</p>

<p>Feed clematis in early spring with a high potash feed like rose fertiliser and mulch with compost after feeding. Feed container-grown plants monthly in spring and summer with a general-purpose liquid fertiliser.</p>

<h2>Clematis wilt</h2>

<p>Clematis wilt is a fungal disease that causes clematis leaves to shrivel and stems to wilt. However, wilting can also be caused by a lack of water or physical damage to the plant stems, so always check your plant&rsquo;s environment first before diagnosing clematis wilt.</p>

<p>To treat clematis wilt, cut out and dispose of all affected material, disinfecting your tools afterwards. To reduce the risk of disease, plant clematis deeply, with space around them for good air circulation, and mulch annually &ndash; this reduces stress on the plant and makes it less prone to infection.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a fantastic range of clematis and other flowering climbers in our centre, so visit us today to find the one that&rsquo;s perfect for your garden.</p>

How to grow Clematis

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">It&rsquo;s fun <strong>landscaping with succulents</strong>, especially in the garden&#39;s dry areas, or simply creating&nbsp;a stunning display. They are a wonderful and easy collection of plants to include in any garden.</span></p>

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">It&rsquo;s fun <strong>landscaping with succulents</strong>, especially in the garden&#39;s dry areas, or simply creating&nbsp;a stunning display. They are a wonderful and easy collection of plants to include in any garden. They grow well on patios and balconies and are being used much more in landscaping schemes due to the changing climate and plant trends. Here is our guide to ensuring you create an inspired and thriving succulent garden.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Pick your site for landscaping with succulents&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Succulents are native desert pants, so considering this, a dry, sunny site is best. Some will grow in part shade, but mostly they will need some sunshine. However, in some cases, prolonged exposure to sunshine can do more harm than good, so giving them some shade will be helpful.</span></p>

<h2><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Use your houseplants for landscaping with succulents&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">If you want to&nbsp;keep your indoor succulents thriving and try out some ideas in the garden, move your indoor succulents outside during the warmer months and place them where you are thinking of planting to help you decide what and where to plant them.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Landscaping with succulents choices&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">These are succulents you can use for landscaping in the garden. Remember that succulents fancy dry spots. Therefore, use them on a sloping&nbsp;hill in the garden. Here are our favourite</span><span>&nbsp;succulents you can grow outside, but there are many more to choose from. Consider their mature size when designing your succulent garden, so they have plenty of space and airflow to grow well.&nbsp;</span></p>

<ul dir="ltr">
	<li><span>Aeonium,</span></li>
	<li><span>Agave</span></li>
	<li><span>Aloe</span></li>
	<li><span>Crassula</span></li>
	<li><span>Echeveria</span></li>
	<li><span>Haworthia</span></li>
	<li><span>Kalanchoe</span></li>
	<li><span>Sedums</span></li>
</ul>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Planting and watering when landscaping with succulents is important&nbsp;</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Soil with plenty of sand or horticultural grit is needed because of succulents like well-drained soil and never waterlogged or heavy. A great tip is to make the hole where you will be planting just big enough for the root ball, but then don&rsquo;t backfill. This allows the soil to backfill naturally and the roots time to establish close to the surface, which will benefit the succulents. Succulents do need water, just not as much as many other plants. So water them well but not too often.&nbsp;</span></p>

<h2 dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Patterns when landscaping with succulents</span></h2>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">When you plant succulents close together, you have the opportunity to create a beautiful piece of art full of different colours, shapes and textures. From swirls to even letters, the options are endless and can provide a great focal point in the garden, either in a garden bed or a tabletop display. You can also use succulents in what would be considered a traditional rock garden. Instead of using alpines, why not plant succulents instead. Along with this, especially in a small space, you can use your vertical areas to create a succulent living wall.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">Succulents allow you to get really creative and design around pathways, in planters, up walls, in a rockery that will provide you with a great garden and be good for the dryer garden planting that we expect going into the future.&nbsp;</span></p>

<p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-22634697-7fff-e359-2ef9-6b37c585e500">We have many different succulents for you to landscape your garden with, visit us in store to find your perfect plants.&nbsp;</span></p>

Landscaping with succulents

<p>If you&rsquo;re lucky enough to have <strong>a garden that gets full sun</strong>, there&rsquo;s a huge range of plants you can grow. Most flowering plants are happy in the sun, and here are some that just love to soak up those rays.&nbsp;</p>

<p>If you&rsquo;re lucky enough to have <strong>a garden that gets full sun</strong>, there&rsquo;s a huge range of plants you can grow. Most flowering plants are happy in the sun, and here are some that love to soak up those rays.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Sun-loving herbs</h2>

<p>Mediterranean herbs including rosemary, thyme, lavender and oregano all love the sun and will also grow in relatively poor soil, making them very easy to grow in any garden. As well as being useful in the kitchen, these herbs also have beautiful flowers that look good in the garden and are fantastic for bees and other pollinators.</p>

<h2>Drought tolerant plants&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The downside of a garden in full sun is that everything can get very hot and dry in summer. If you don&rsquo;t want to have to spend all your time watering, it&rsquo;s a good idea to incorporate some drought-tolerant plants. Here are a few to start with:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Stachys byzantina (lamb&rsquo;s ears): a beautiful groundcover plant with large silvery leaves covered in tiny soft hairs, giving them their common name of lamb&rsquo;s ear. They produce short purple flower spires in summer, but the real attraction is the silvery foliage.</li>
	<li>Sedum (now called Hylotelephium, also known as stonecrop): succulents with fleshy green or purple leaves and clusters of flowers in late summer that magnet for bees.</li>
	<li>Cistus (rockrose): an evergreen shrub covered in large pink or white flowers in summer.</li>
	<li>Eryngium: a sun-loving perennial with fabulous steel-blue spiky flowers that bees love.</li>
	<li>Lychnis coronaria: a perennial that self-seeds liberally, with silver foliage and bright pink or pure white flowers in summer.</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to be waterwise</h2>

<p>Sunny gardens will need some watering, but it&rsquo;s important to use it effectively, with water becoming a precious resource. Here are few simple ways to be more waterwise in your garden.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Mulch beds annually with a thick layer of organic matter such as well-rotted farmyard manure or compost. This improves soil structure and helps the soil retain moisture, reducing water beds during dry periods. Ideally, do your mulching in autumn or early winter once all your perennials have been cut back and you have space to work in the bed. With a bit of luck, earthworms and other soil organisms will help work the mulch into the soil over winter. You can also mulch in spring.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>When watering in new shrubs and trees, please give them a thorough watering every few days. This encourages the roots to grow deep and is better for your plants than a little watering every day.</li>
	<li>Water in the morning or evening when it&rsquo;s cooler and less water will be lost through evaporation.</li>
	<li>Install a water butt to collect rainwater for use in dry periods.</li>
</ul>

<p>If you want to learn more about waterwise gardening, we recommend you to read our previous articles about this topic. It&#39;s important to know how precious water is, and how to use it wisely.</p>

<p>Get your garden looking great this summer with some sun-loving plants from our exciting range. Visit our centre soon to see what&rsquo;s new!</p>

Sun-loving plants

<p>Easily <strong>avoid these Hydrangea care mistakes</strong> and ensure your Hydrangeas all thrive for a long time, whether they are in a pot or a garden border.</p>

<p>Easily <strong>avoid these Hydrangea care mistakes</strong> and ensure your Hydrangeas all thrive for a long time, whether they are in a pot or a garden border. Hydrangeas are one of the most well known, recognised and popular garden plants. They come in colour ranges&nbsp;from acidic blue to white, baby pink and vibrant pink varieties that really stand out. There are so many varieties available to choose from that there is most definitely one for every taste. Along with our tips below, here are a few varieties that we love:&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Favourite Hydrangea varieties</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Hydrangea paniculata &lsquo;Vanilla Fraise&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea macrophylla &lsquo;Bavaria&#39;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea arborescens &lsquo;Annabelle&#39;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea quercifolia &#39;Snow Queen&rsquo;</li>
	<li>Hydrangea macrophylla &lsquo;Glam Rock&rsquo;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Here is how to avoid Hydrangea care mistakes&nbsp;</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Aspect</strong>:<br />
	Don&rsquo;t plant them in full sun. Hydrangeas aren&rsquo;t particularly happy in full sun if the soil is dry. They will grow in full sun, but you will need to make sure they don&rsquo;t dry out and get stressed. Ideally, planting them in dappled/part shade is the best position for them, even full shade with moist conditions. Morning sun is better than afternoon sun, so find the perfect spot for your Hydrangeas according to the shade in your garden.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>pH</strong>:<br />
	Please don&rsquo;t assume they will keep their colour. The pH of your soil can alter the colour of your Hydrangeas. For example, if you buy a blue variety and plant it neutral to alkaline pH soil, you will find the colour will change, and you may wonder why! To keep the blue Hydrangeas a stunning blue, plant them in acidic soil or a pot with ericaceous compost.</li>
	<li><strong>Pruning</strong>:<br />
	Don&rsquo;t snip away without knowing which type you are growing. Hydrangeas are hardy, deciduous shrubs. Some can even climb, and others will stay small. With so many different types, make sure you read the label to know which one you are choosing. There are various pruning methods according to the type you have. Here are some common</li>
</ol>

<h2>Hydrangea pruning mistakes explained</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Hydrangea macrophylla and Hydrangea serrata can be pruned during springtime. However, their flowers are produced on old wood, so if you prune them back too hard, the flowers for summer will be lost.</li>
	<li>Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea aborescens can be cut back in the springtime. They can be left unpruned but do get tall with flowers mostly at the top. They can be cut back hard without affecting this year&rsquo;s flowers.</li>
	<li>Hydrangea aspera and Hydrangea quercifolia can be lightly pruned in spring by removing old, crossing stems and old flower heads.</li>
	<li>Hydrangea petiolaris can be pruned after flowering during the summer months. Cut back the shoots that have flowered to a pair of new buds.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>Hydrangeas are stunning garden plants and also provide lots of food and shelter for garden wildlife. There is a Hydrangea for every garden.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a range of Hydrangeas and other garden shrubs for your garden in store. Hydrangeas are easy garden plants if you take care of them the right way. At our garden centre, we have all kind of professionals that walk around to give you the best advice on Hydrangea caring. We look forward to welcoming you to our garden centre.</p>

Avoid these Hydrangea care mistakes

<p>In July, the garden is in full swing, with flowers blooming everywhere you look and vegetable beds full of crops to be harvested. So please make the most of your garden this month with our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for July</strong>.</p>

<p>In July, the garden is in full swing, with flowers blooming everywhere you look and vegetable beds full of crops to be harvested. So please make the most of your garden this month with our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for July</strong>.</p>

<h2>Top 15 gardening tips for July</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Get a head-start on next spring&rsquo;s flowers by sowing biennials like wallflowers, foxgloves and honesty now.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow lettuce rocket and radish seeds regularly for summer salads. Lettuce tends to bolt (i.e. go to seed) quickly in hot weather, so sow it where it will get some shade during the hottest part of the day.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If you sowed winter cabbages and leeks earlier in the year, transplant the seedlings now to their final positions.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water vegetables regularly. It&rsquo;s crucial to give tomatoes a consistent amount of water if possible, as the fruits will split if they get a sudden heavy watering after a dry period.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Feed tomatoes, courgettes, peppers and cucumbers fortnightly with a high potash liquid feed to promote flowers and fruit. Container-grown blueberries and gooseberries will also appreciate a fortnightly high-potash feed (tomato feed is ideal).</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out sideshoots on cordon tomatoes (these are the little leafy shoots that appear where the leaf stems join the main stem).</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Watch out for blossom end rot on tomatoes. This appears as sunken brown patches at the lower end of the fruit and means the plant isn&rsquo;t getting enough calcium. Regular watering will usually solve the problem, although you will have to discard badly affected fruits.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pinch out the growing tips of broad beans once the first pods appear. This will reduce aphid attacks and also gives you bushy plants that produce more beans.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Earth up maincrop potatoes to stop the light getting to them and turning them green and toxic. Harvest early potatoes in July, but dig up one or two first to check that they are big enough to harvest.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Pick courgettes and beans regularly to keep the plants producing more.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead roses and sweet peas, or cut the flowers for the house to encourage the plants to keep flowering.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut back faded perennials like geraniums for a second flush of flowers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give wisteria its summer prune, cutting back all this year&rsquo;s long whippy shoots back to five or six leaves from the main stem.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water in the mornings or evenings when it&rsquo;s cooler to reduce water loss through evaporation.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Mow lawns regularly, but raise your mower&rsquo;s blades during hot, dry periods to reduce stress on the grass. Try not to water your lawn in dry periods &ndash; it may go a bit brown, but it will bounce back as soon as the next rain arrives.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Whatever you&rsquo;re doing in your garden this month, we&rsquo;ve got everything you need in our centre. So visit us today for all your gardening needs!</p>

15 Gardening tips for July

<p>Like us, plants need food to grow and stay healthy. They get most of their nutrients from the soil, but houseplants grown in pots will quickly use up all the nutrients in fresh compost. So to&nbsp;<strong>keep your houseplants healthy</strong> and to look good, it&rsquo;s important to <strong>feed them regularly</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Why houseplants need feeding</h2>

<p>Like us, plants need food to grow and stay healthy. They get most of their nutrients from the soil, but houseplants grown in pots will quickly use up all the nutrients in fresh compost. So to&nbsp;<strong>keep your houseplants healthy</strong> and to look good, it&rsquo;s important to <strong>feed them regularly</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Types of houseplant feed</h2>

<p>All plant fertilisers contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are essential for plant growth. Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) promotes healthy leaves, phosphorus (chemical symbol P) is needed for roots and shoots, and potassium (chemical symbol K) for the growth of flowers and fruit. The percentage of each of these elements in fertiliser will be shown on the packaging and is often referred to as the NPK ratio.&nbsp;</p>

<p>A balanced fertiliser will contain similar levels of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. For example, Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Plant Food (a balanced feed) has an NPK ratio of 20 &ndash; 20 - 20, whereas a high nitrogen feed like Baby Bio has an NPK ratio of 10.6 - 4.4 - 1.7.</p>

<p>High nitrogen feeds are good for foliage plants, helping them produce lots of big, healthy leaves. On the other hand, flowering houseplants need a high potash (potassium) feed which boosts the production of flowers. Specialist feeds are available for many plants, including cacti and succulents, citrus plants and orchids.</p>

<h2>How to feed houseplants</h2>

<p>Like other plants, houseplants need feeding most during their growing period, which is usually spring and summer.</p>

<p>As a general rule, feed your houseplants fortnightly in spring and summer, and reduce this to a monthly feed in autumn and winter.</p>

<p>Here are a few tips on how to feed some of the more specialist houseplants:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Streptocarpus</strong>: Feed with a general-purpose houseplant feed in spring, then change to a high potash feed in summer to promote flowering. Use a specialist Streptocarpus food, or use tomato feed diluted to at least half-strength.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Orchids</strong>: Take care not to over-feed. If you are using a general houseplant feed on your orchids, dilute it to quarter strength, or use a specialist orchid feed and follow the instructions on the pack.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Cacti and succulents</strong>:&nbsp;These can survive with minimal feeding, but they will flower more if fed. Use a specialist cactus and succulent feed in spring and summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Citrus plants</strong>: Citrus trees are ravenous plants, so feed every two weeks in spring and summer with a high-nitrogen citrus summer fertiliser and a specialised citrus winter feed during the winter months.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Carnivorous plants</strong>: These grow best in very poor soil and don&rsquo;t usually need extra feeding, provided they are placed where they can catch their own food.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>Need advice on what to feed your plants? We have a wide range of plant feeds and fertilisers in our centre, and our friendly staff are always happy to help.</p>

How to feed your houseplants

<p><strong>Planting a hanging basket</strong> is a quick and easy way to add instant colour to patios, balconies and any other outdoor space that needs brightening up. Many of the most popular plants for hanging baskets will flower for months on end, and they&rsquo;re effortless to care for. Here are five of our favourite plants for hanging baskets.</p>

<p><strong>Planting a hanging basket</strong> is a quick and easy way to add instant colour to patios, balconies and any other outdoor space that needs brightening up. Many of the most popular plants for hanging baskets will flower for months on end, and they&rsquo;re effortless to care for. Here are five of our favourite plants for hanging baskets.</p>

<h2>Top 5&nbsp; plants for hanging baskets</h2>

<p>Brighten up your outdoor space with colourful hanging baskets. At our garden centre in %locations%, we have several hanging pots, hanging baskets, and planters filled with summer-blooming plants. Please choose from our wide assortment and hang up a hanging basket at your front door, pergola, trellis or wall. It&#39;s fun to make hanging baskets yourself, too. We have all supplies you need. Find out which flowers are best for hanging baskets and visit our garden centre for the most colourful species.</p>

<h2>1. Trailing geraniums</h2>

<p>Trailing geraniums look fabulous in hanging baskets, with stems bearing clusters of flowers in vivid colours. As well as the ever-popular red geraniums, there are also gorgeous pink, white and even bicolour varieties. Trailing geraniums like a sunny position, and they&rsquo;re reasonably drought resistant, so they will cope if you forget to water them for a few days.&nbsp; Deadhead any faded flowers, and feed them fortnightly with a high&ndash;potash feed (tomato feed is ideal). Geraniums will flower from early summer until the first frosts.</p>

<h2>2. Trailing petunias</h2>

<p>Petunias are the classic choice for hanging baskets. They come in an amazing array of colours, with single or double flowers. New varieties like the Surfinia range of petunias have been bred to stand up well to wet weather, and others, like the Thumbelina range, are deliciously fragrant.&nbsp; Petunias prefer a sunny position, with regular watering and a fortnightly feed with a high potash liquid feed. Deadhead faded flowers regularly to keep them flowering through summer until the first frosts.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Fuchsias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If you have a shady spot that needs a bit of colour, a hanging basket planted with fuchsias is the answer. With their exotic-looking, colourful flowers on gracefully arching stems, trailing fuchsias spill elegantly over the edge of a hanging basket, adding a touch of glamour wherever they are. They grow in sun or light shade, flowering right through summer and early autumn. Water regularly and feed fortnightly with a high potash feed to keep the flowers coming.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Begonias</h2>

<p>Begonias are a fabulous splash of colour in hanging baskets, with big, blowsy blooms in a range of colours from soft pink and cream to vivid scarlet and orange. Dark-leaved begonias add extra interest, their striking foliage making the perfect foil for the colourful flowers. Begonias are happy in light shade and can also be grown in the sun. Water them regularly, feed fortnightly, and deadhead faded blooms.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Filler plants</h2>

<p>Every hanging basket needs a few filler plants to act as a backdrop for the beautiful flowers and creating a cloud effect.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is one of the best, with trailing stems and rounded lime-green trailing leaves that add texture and softness to planting.&nbsp;This attractive foliage plant grows well in the sun or light shade.</li>
	<li>Bacopa is another useful filler plant, with thin stems covered in masses of tiny blue or white flowers. It does best in full sun, with regular watering.</li>
	<li>Try Cordyline or Helichrysum for lovely rounded foliage and hide the bare stems of other plants.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>If your patio needs a boost this summer, visit our centre, where you&rsquo;ll find a fantastic range of plants, hanging baskets and containers to add instant colour to any outdoor space.</p>

Top 5 plants for hanging baskets

<p>Water is one of our most precious resources, and as summers get hotter and drier, we need to <strong>use water wisely in our gardens</strong>. These simple tips will help you give your plants the water they need with as little waste as possible.</p>

<p>Water is one of our most precious resources, and as summers get hotter and drier, we need to <strong>use water wisely in our gardens</strong>. These simple tips will help you give your plants the water they need with as little waste as possible.</p>

<h2>Save water by improving your soil</h2>

<p>One of the best ways to use water effectively in the garden is to improve your soil by adding organic material, like well-rotted farmyard manure, leaf mould or compost. This improves the soil structure, helping light soils hold on to moisture to need less watering. It also helps heavy clay soils to drain better.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<p>Mulching soil helps to stop moisture from evaporating. It&rsquo;s best to do this in spring when the soil is still damp from the winter rains. Compost and bark chippings make good mulches. Apply a thick layer of mulch, at least 5cm (2in).&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to water effectively</h2>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Water in the early morning or the evening, so the water doesn&rsquo;t evaporate in the heat of the sun before it has a chance to reach the plants&rsquo; roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Give newly planted shrubs and trees a good soak every few days. This encourages the roots to grow deep into the soil, making the plants more resilient in times of drought. Avoid watering little and often, as this tends just to wet the soil&#39;s surface, encouraging plant roots to stay shallow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Drip irrigation systems are more efficient at watering than sprinklers, getting water directly to the plants&rsquo; roots.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>A tip when growing thirsty vegetables like courgettes is to create a reservoir next to each plant. Cut a plastic bottle in half, remove the cap and bury the top half of the bottle upside down next to the plant. When watering, fill the bottle, and the water will soak out into the soil right next to the plants&rsquo; roots.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add water-retaining gel to potting compost in hanging baskets and containers.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Install a rainwater butt connected to a downpipe to collect the rainwater that runs off your roof, and use this to water your plants.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Drought-tolerant plants</h2>

<p>Drought-tolerant plants have evolved structures that help them survive periods without water, so planting a few of these in your garden means less time spent watering.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Plants like thyme and rosemary have small leaves to reduce the amount of water lost through the leaf surface. Stachys byzantina (lambs ears) has leaves covered in tiny hairs, which also reduces water loss. Succulents like sempervivums and sedums have fleshy leaves that can store water for use in dry seasons.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These drought-resistant plants will look good in any garden:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Perovskia (Russian sage)</li>
	<li>Lavender</li>
	<li>Hardy geraniums (cranesbills)</li>
	<li>Nepeta (catmint)</li>
	<li>Cistus (rockrose)</li>
	<li>Eryngium (sea holly)</li>
	<li>Verbascum (mullein)</li>
	<li>Sedum/Hylotelephium (stonecrop)</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to add some drought-tolerant plants to your garden, visit our centre to see our extensive range. We have plants to suit every garden!</p>

How to use water wisely in the garden

<p><strong>June</strong> is such a busy month in the <strong>kitchen garden</strong> from keeping on top of weeds to watering, planting out and harvesting plus even more sowing - it&rsquo;s not too late!</p>

<p><strong>June</strong> is such a busy month in the <strong>kitchen garden</strong> from keeping on top of weeds to watering, planting out and harvesting plus even more sowing - it&rsquo;s not too late! Then there is always the weather to contend with! Will it be too dry, or will there be rain? These are the questions gardeners all over the country ask themselves daily. Most likely, June will be sunny and the longest day of the year will be here before you know it. So that means one thing! It&rsquo;s time to make sure your plants are ready to grow.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Aubergines, tomatoes and cucumbers</h2>

<p>If you are growing aubergines, tomatoes and cucumbers outside, make sure they&nbsp;are in a sunny but sheltered spot with supports ready for them to climb. Keep them well-watered and remember to feed them as well for more harvests in just a few weeks.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Lettuce, kohlrabi and beetroot&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Have you sown lettuce, kohlrabi and cucumbers undercover? If you&#39;ve started them off in a greenhouse, make sure you are hardening them off and planting them out soon to give them plenty of time to grow ready for you. It&#39;s almost time to harvest them and create a fresh salad with homegrown food like these. Nothing beats a homegrown salad.</p>

<h2>4. Corn, squash and beans&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Try the &#39;three sisters planting method&#39; and grow all three of these in one space. It&rsquo;s a great space saver and each supports the other. Beans fix nitrates in the soil as it uses the corn to grow up. Squash is planted around the outside and together not only do they look great but they can all be grown together in a small space for abundant harvests.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Marigolds and nasturtiums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If you haven&rsquo;t already planted out some edible flowers, there is no time like the present. Both Marigolds and Nasturtiums are great companion plants deterring pests, but they are also edible! Add some brightly coloured flowers to your salads straight from your kitchen garden. These varieties are ready to harvest when their colour is bright enough.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>6. Turnips and swede</h2>

<p>Both turnips and swede can be planted out if you have already grown undercover or they can be sown directly into the soil where they are to grow. Both, when harvested at just the right time can be delicious and great to cook with. Don&rsquo;t miss out on these species and sow those seeds as soon as you can. You can still buy lots of seeds at our garden centre in %locations%</p>

<h2>7. Radish, spinach and pak choi&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Supercharge your salads with these three that can all still be sown right now so there is no need to miss out! Keep successionally sowing for more crops. Most people don&#39;t think of pak choi in their dishes because of its bitter taste. Try the Asian way by marinating your pak choi, spinach and radish in soy sauce and top it off with sesame seeds. You will be amazed by the delicious taste. Variating with food makes any hearts beat faster.</p>

<h2>8. Annual bedding&nbsp;</h2>

<p>You might not think of annual bedding as something to grow in a kitchen garden but, it really is! Add some colour, textures and a little something different with some bedding plants in and around your vegetables.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Check us out in store for vegetables, fruit and bedding to grow in your kitchen garden.</p>

What to plant in the kitchen garden in June

<p>Left to their own devices, <strong>shrubs and climbers</strong> can get out of hand, growing too big and looking untidy. <strong>Pruning</strong> keeps them looking neat and flowering well, so it&rsquo;s well worth doing.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Left to their own devices, <strong>shrubs and climbers</strong> can get out of hand, growing too big and looking untidy. <strong>Pruning</strong> keeps them looking neat and flowering well, so it&rsquo;s well worth doing.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Golden rules of pruning</h2>

<p>When you&rsquo;re pruning, there are a few golden rules to remember:&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Always cut just above a bud.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>When pruning to shape a plant, work slowly and take regular breaks to check that you are not taking off too much.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Take care when working at height, and don&rsquo;t be afraid to call in a professional if the job is too big for you to tackle safely.</li>
</ul>

<p>Pruning shrubs and climbers isn&rsquo;t complicated, and there&rsquo;s plenty of information available on how and when to prune. To get you started, here are a few tips on pruning common shrubs and climbers.</p>

<h2>1. Pruning hydrangeas</h2>

<p>To prune mophead hydrangeas, leave the flowers on the plant over winter to protect the developing buds and remove them in spring, cutting back to just above a strong pair of buds lower down on the stem. Cut out any thin, weak stems and remove one or two old stems to promote new growth.</p>

<p>Prune Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens in early spring, cutting back last year&rsquo;s shoots to between 30-60cm (1-2ft) above the ground, just above a pair of strong buds.</p>

<h2>2. Pruning fuchsia and buddleja</h2>

<p>Prune in mid to late spring, cutting back last year&rsquo;s growth to within 1-2 buds of the main woody branches. Remove any weak or spindly stems.</p>

<h2>3. Pruning forsythia</h2>

<p>For a good display of flowers, prune forsythia next spring as soon as the flowers have faded. Cut all stems back by a quarter of their length to shape the plant, and remove any damaged or crossing branches. On established plants, every two years, cut back one in every four old stems to the base to reduce congestion.</p>

<h2>4. Pruning honeysuckle</h2>

<p>Most honeysuckles flower in late summer, but some, e.g. Dutch honeysuckle, flower in late spring and early summer.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Prune early flowering honeysuckles straight after flowering, cutting back the flowered shoots by one-third.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Prune late-flowering honeysuckles in spring, cutting back any long trailing stems and lightly trimming the rest of the plant.</li>
</ul>

<h2>5. Pruning clematis</h2>

<p>Clematis are divided into 3 groups, defined by their flowering time:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Group 1 flowers in winter or early spring. Prune as soon as they finish flowering, removing deadwood and cutting back flowered stems to fit the space available.</li>
	<li>Group 2 flowers in late spring, with sometimes a second flush in late summer. Prune in spring before they start to grow, cutting back to a pair of healthy buds.</li>
	<li>Group 3 flowers in late summer. Prune in early spring, cutting back to a pair of strong buds about 20cm above ground level.</li>
</ul>

<p>Need to tackle an overgrown plant in your garden? We&rsquo;ve got all the tools and equipment you need, so visit our centre today!</p>

Pruning climbers and shrubs

<p>There is <strong>eco-friendly pest control</strong> available for just about every pest the amateur gardener will find in the garden, so there is usually something that will help you to protect your plants. Generally speaking, the aim of pest control is to prevent pests rather than completely eradicate them, since each and everyone does have a purpose in the garden - even if you would prefer that purpose not to be eating your brassicas!&nbsp;</p>

<p>There is <strong>eco-friendly pest control</strong> available for just about every pest the amateur gardener will find in the garden, so there is usually something that will help you to protect your plants. Generally speaking, the aim of pest control is to prevent pests rather than completely eradicate them, since each and everyone does have a purpose in the garden - even if you would prefer that purpose not to be eating your brassicas!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>The best eco-friendly pest control&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Without a doubt, the best way is to allow nature to take control of pests for you. By creating a biodiverse garden full of plants for pollinators, trees and shrubs making homes and food for wildlife, a pond for amphibians, a wild area and in general a lovely space for all to enjoy - you will find that pests will be eaten by predators and you won&rsquo;t need to do much about it! Win-win for you and the environment. The best natural eco-friendly pest control is done by your wildlife, such as birds and ladybugs. Welcome them to your garden by hanging birdhouses and bird tables.</p>

<h2>Companion planting is&nbsp;an eco-friendly pest control</h2>

<p>When you plant a different combination of species closely together you will find that one helps the other! Some will attract predatory insects, others will steer away from the pests you don&rsquo;t want eating your cabbages. Some plants have fragrances that pests don&rsquo;t like. Nasturtiums for example can be a breeding ground for the cabbage white butterfly, meaning they will stay off your sprouts! Did you know that herbs also make a natural eco-friendly pest control?&nbsp;Herbs are what many consider to be &ldquo;companion plants&rdquo; for use in vegetable gardens and throughout the garden. Their purpose is two-fold: attract beneficial insects and deter pests. Try planting these herbs in your garden:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Mint,</li>
	<li>Basil,</li>
	<li>Lavender,</li>
	<li>Rosemary and other herbs.</li>
</ul>

<p>These herbs work really well as natural pest control. Planting these in your garden will not only help keep pests away but these herbs can be used to control pests indoors as well.</p>

<h2>Eco-friendly pest control with deterrents</h2>

<p>Remember: the key is that you are not trying to kill all pests, but just deter them. So, use things like:</p>

<ul>
	<li>copper tape around pots that snails don&rsquo;t like,</li>
	<li>cabbage collars for root fly,</li>
	<li>carrot root fly meshes to keep them off your carrots.</li>
	<li>scarecrows, bottles on canes, shining CD&rsquo;s blowing in the wind can all deter birds away from your crops.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Get up close for eco-friendly pest control&nbsp;</h2>

<p>One way to control pests is to pick them off yourself! Pick caterpillars, slugs and snails along with others&nbsp;and re-locate them somewhere far away from your plants! If all else fails, a splash of water can get rid of aphids, netting can keep birds off and think about the plants you will grow - such as no Lilies if you suffer badly from red lily beetle - can work well. There are so many beautiful plants to grow, being without the ones that tend to get destroyed won&rsquo;t be too much of a loss.&nbsp;</p>

<p>There are other eco-friendly ways of pest control such as using essential oils and some of the newer products on the market which are made solely for deterring certain pests. There are many options so there is no need to despair.&nbsp;</p>

<p>In store, we have a range of products to help along with plants for companion planting. Do you want to know more about eco-friendly pest control?&nbsp;Visit to find out more.&nbsp;</p>

Eco-friendly pest control

<p>It is time to decide on <strong>Father&#39;s Day Gifts</strong> to treat the special man in your life. Treat your Dad with a special gift to show him how much you care.</p>

<p>It is time to decide on <strong>Father&#39;s Day Gifts</strong> to treat the special man in your life. Treat your Dad with a special gift to show him how much you care.</p>

<h2>1. For the Dad who likes the outdoors&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If your Dad is into adventures from camping to hiking, he&rsquo;ll no doubt be thankful for a cool box, rambler mug or cool bag. For those long days out in the wilds, he can stay refreshed and ready to keep hydrated. Keep his water cool with a new insulated mug or bag, so you know he is always being looked after when enjoying participating in sports.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. For the Dad who likes his meals hot</h2>

<p>If your Dad likes to add heat to every meal he makes or is served, how about a pack of spices? This can be a great gift for the Dad who likes it hot! From cumin to cayenne pepper, paprika to chilli powder - a pack of spices is a lovely gift for the man who loves spice. Buy them individually or pre-wrapped in a gift pack. And what about Dad&#39;s that like to spice it up on the barbecue? Find yourself the perfect barbecue accessories in our garden centre. We offer all kinds of accessories, such as a pizza stone,&nbsp;BBQ pan, grilling basket,&nbsp;BBQ gloves, grilling stone, rotisserie, grill rack, skewer set. We bet your Dad definitely likes the idea of him lighting the barbecue more often.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. For the Dad who likes to relax</h2>

<p>If your Dad loves to sit in the garden with his feet up after a day of mowing the lawn, why not pick the perfect fragrant perennial to plant in a pot right by where he sits? He can admire the flowers and the fragrance, knowing you choose the plant just for him. Roses, Jasmine, Honeysuckle - there are many to choose from. Match your garden plant with an extraordinary plant pot, container or planter. If your dad doesn&#39;t have a green thumb, you can also give him a book to relax in the garden.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. For the gardening Dad</h2>

<p>With so many gardening gifts available, the options are endless! From hand tools to seed trays, plants, pots, and ready planted hanging baskets, you really can take your pick, but why not look for a plant that brings back a happy memory? A plant in your bridal bouquet or that was blooming during the time of year that you were born.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. For the Dad who loves to read</h2>

<p>There is nothing better than a good book on a sunny day relaxing in the garden. If your Dad loves to read, find an excellent book that he can get stuck into. Autobiography of his favourite sporting legend, perhaps his celebrity crush or his favourite gardener.&nbsp;</p>

<p>No matter what you decide to give to your Dad for Fathers Day, he will know you love him, and nothing compares to spending time with him, so make sure you grab a few hours to spoil him.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For tools, plants, and so much more, we have just what your Dad will love for Fathers Day in store.&nbsp;</p>

Top 5 ideas for Fathers Day Gifts

<p>With big glossy green leaves, <strong>avocado</strong> trees make surprisingly good <strong>houseplants</strong>, and they&rsquo;re easy to grow from an avocado stone. Why not pick up a fresh avocado from the supermarket and give it a go?&nbsp;</p>

<p>With big glossy green leaves, <strong>avocado</strong> trees make surprisingly good <strong>houseplants</strong>, and they&rsquo;re easy to grow from an avocado stone. Why not pick up a fresh avocado from the supermarket and give it a go?&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Where to grow avocados</h2>

<p>Native to South America, avocados like a warm environment with fairly high humidity. In our temperate climate, they do best as houseplants, but they can be planted outside in mild areas and may even produce occasional fruits.</p>

<h2>How to grow an avocado from a stone</h2>

<p>Growing an avocado plant from a stone (the large pip inside the avocado fruit) is fun and makes a great gardening project for children. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done:</p>

<ol>
	<li>Cut a shop-bought avocado in half and remove the stone.</li>
	<li>Push a ring of toothpicks around the middle of the stone to make supports so that you can suspend it over a glass of water with the dimpled end of the stone in the water.</li>
	<li>Place the glass on a sunny windowsill where it will be at a reasonably constant temperature of between 20-25&deg;C (68-77&deg;F).</li>
	<li>Keep the water level topped up.</li>
	<li>The stone should start to produce roots in between 2-6 weeks.</li>
	<li>Once the stone has produced a stem and leaves, take it out of the glass, remove the toothpicks and plant the seedling in a small pot filled with multipurpose compost, with some sharp sand mixed in to improve drainage.</li>
</ol>

<p>You can also plant an avocado stone in a pot filled with multipurpose compost. Place the pot somewhere warm and dark for a couple of weeks, watering regularly to stop the compost from drying out. When shoots appear, move the pot to a bright, sunny windowsill.</p>

<p>Once your avocado seedling reaches 30cm (12in) high, cut it down to 15cm (6in). This will produce a bushy plant with lots of foliage, ideal for an indoor plant.&nbsp;</p>

<p>When roots start showing through the pot&#39;s drainage holes, transplant your seedling into a bigger pot. Use a loam-based compost such as John Innes no 3, with added sharp sand for drainage.</p>

<h2>Caring for an avocado houseplant</h2>

<p>To keep your avocado plant looking good, place it in a warm, sunny spot, with a minimum winter temperature of between 13-18&deg;C (55-65&deg;F)&mdash;water when the compost feels dry to the touch. In spring and summer, feed every 2-3 weeks with a balanced liquid feed. Repot in spring if roots are starting to grow through the drainage holes of the pot.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<p>Don&rsquo;t expect to be picking your own avocados any time soon &ndash; avocado trees grown from seed take ten years to bear fruit. When grown as houseplants, they rarely flower, but if yours does, move it outside so that bees can pollinate the flowers. Avocado trees typically last between 2-3 years as houseplants.</p>

<p>Looking for more houseplants with fantastic foliage or flowers? Visit our centre and choose your perfect plant from our exciting range.</p>

How to grow an avocado as a houseplant

<p>These <strong>lawn tips for June</strong> will help you to keep your lawn in great shape for the summer ahead. As the months warm up and you spend more time outside in the garden, you might find the lawn being used much more. Perhaps BBQ&rsquo;s with family and friends, children playing ball games and dogs running around might make for a messy lawn, but there are ways and means to keep it looking great with these tips.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>lawn tips for June</strong> will help you to keep your lawn in great shape for the summer ahead. As the months warm up and you spend more time outside in the garden, you might find the lawn being used much more. Perhaps BBQ&rsquo;s with family and friends, children playing ball games and dogs running around might make for a messy lawn, but there are ways and means to keep it looking great with these tips.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Keep on top of mowing</h2>

<p>With warmer weather and heading into summer, you will see your lawn growing really fast during June. If you&rsquo;d like a nice neat lawn, keep on top of it with a weekly mow. Don&rsquo;t forget to leave some areas for the grass to grow. You never know what will pop up, and your garden wildlife will be thankful.</p>

<h2>2. Clean your tools</h2>

<p>Before you get started, make sure your mower blades are sharp and clean. Check over any tools you will use to make sure they are in good condition and ensure any electrical cables are intact and safe.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Feed your lawn&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Using an organic lawn fertiliser to provide all of the nutrients needed to keep it growing lush and green is important now. Some will be applied just during spring and then autumn, but others, especially liquid feed, can be used monthly as you water.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Watering&nbsp;</h2>

<p>With warmer and dryer weather, the lawn will need to be watered. Rainwater is, of course, best and early morning or early evening is much better than during the day. Daytime watering, especially in the heat, means it will evaporate much quicker. Try to water at the base of your plants so the water can be absorbed directly into the roots rather than sitting on the foliage.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Aeration&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Use a rolling aerator or wear some aerator sandals to allow your lawn to breathe. Generally, the whole lawn will benefit but focus on the areas most used. You can also sprinkle some grass seed and fertiliser to any badly worn down areas after you have aerated, and then don&rsquo;t forget to water afterwards.</p>

<h2>6. Pests and diseases&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Keep a check on your lawn as much as you possibly can so you can spot any pests and diseases that might occur. By spotting issues early on means, you can take action to halt their spread when possible. Moulds, rust and fairy rings, plus many others, can be seen if the weather conditions are right for them to thrive. If you spot any changes, find out what they are and the treatment needed to repair your lawn immediately.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Don&rsquo;t forget to take a walk barefoot on your lawn too!&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a range of lawn care products in store, come in and visit us.&nbsp;</p>

Lawn tips for June

<p>Anyone who&rsquo;s ever tried to grow a plant will have come up against the question of <strong>plant food and fertilizer</strong>. With so many different types of fertilizers available, how can you tell which one is best for your plants? We&rsquo;ve tried to answer some of the most common questions below.</p>

<p>Anyone who&rsquo;s ever tried to grow a plant will have come up against the question of <strong>plant food and fertilizer</strong>. With so many different types of fertilizers available, how can you tell which one is best for your plants? We&rsquo;ve tried to answer some of the most common questions below.</p>

<h2>Is plant food the same as fertilizer?</h2>

<p>Strictly speaking, plants make their own food, using the elements available in the atmosphere and the soil. Fertilizers are products that we add to the soil to increase nutrient levels. However, in gardening books, websites, and garden centres, you will see the terms &lsquo;plant food&rsquo; and &lsquo;fertilizers&rsquo; used to mean the same thing, and in this article, when we talk about &lsquo;plant food&rsquo; or &lsquo;plant feeds&rsquo;, we mean a fertilizer.</p>

<h2>What do fertilizers do?</h2>

<p>Fertilizers add nutrients to the soil that plants need for healthy growth. They don&rsquo;t do anything to improve the soil structure. However &ndash; for that, you need to add organic material such as compost, leaf mould or well-rotted farmyard manure.</p>

<h2>What&rsquo;s the difference between organic and inorganic fertilizers?</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Inorganic fertilizers are manufactured using chemicals. They are generally faster-acting than inorganic fertilizers.&nbsp;Growmore, Tomorite and Miracle-Gro are all examples of inorganic fertilizers.&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Organic fertilizers are made from plant or animal material. Seaweed feed, bonemeal, and chicken manure pellets are all organic fertilizers. These are usually slower-acting than inorganic fertilizers because they take longer to break down in the soil.</li>
</ul>

<h2>What is an NPK ratio?</h2>

<p>Fertilizers contain three key elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These three elements are essential for healthy plant growth.&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) promotes green leafy growth.</li>
	<li>Phosphorus (chemical symbol P) is important for the development of roots and shoots.</li>
	<li>Potassium (chemical symbol K) promotes the development of flowers and fruit.</li>
</ul>

<p>Different plants need different amounts of these elements. Leafy vegetables like spinach may need a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to encourage good leaf growth. A high-potassium (usually called high-potash) feed will help plants such as roses and vegetables like tomatoes to produce more flowers and fruit.&nbsp;</p>

<p>The proportion of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in fertilizer is called the NPK ratio and is listed on the packaging of each fertilizer.&nbsp; A balanced fertilizer will have roughly the same percentage of each element. In contrast, a high-potash feed such as tomato feed will have a higher potassium percentage than the other two elements.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Top tip</strong>: Remember that plant roots can only take up nutrients that have been dissolved in water, so when checking NPK ratios on the packaging, look for the figure that shows the percentage of each element soluble in water.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Advice on applying fertilizers</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Always follow the manufacturer&rsquo;s instructions.</li>
	<li>Don&rsquo;t overfeed plants, as this can harm them.</li>
	<li>Water plants well before applying liquid feeds to avoid burning their roots.</li>
</ul>

<p>Do you need help to decide which fertilizer is best for your plants? Visit our centre, where our staff will be happy to help you.</p>

Explaining plant food and fertilizers

<p>You can <strong>improve soil drainage</strong> in many ways. Most plants will require well-drained soil, which means their roots absorb the water and nutrients, but they don&rsquo;t sit in heavy wet soil, contributing to rot, disease and pests. There are, however, soils that, even though they may not be well-drained, can still look beautiful as long as the right plants have been chosen for that soil. It&rsquo;s important to have good drainage in pots and containers as well, so here are our tips to help.&nbsp;</p>

<p>You can <strong>improve soil drainage</strong> in many ways. Most plants will require well-drained soil, which means their roots absorb the water and nutrients, but they don&rsquo;t sit in heavy wet soil, contributing to rot, disease and pests. There are, however, soils that, even though they may not be well-drained, can still look beautiful as long as the right plants have been chosen for that soil. It&rsquo;s important to have good drainage in pots and containers as well, so here are our tips to help.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Improve soil drainage in your garden&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Along with roots sitting in wet soil, compacted soil that doesn&rsquo;t drain well can also contribute to run off meaning water doesn&rsquo;t get absorbed at all. Plant roots can also be starved of oxygen if the soil is compacted. Sand is a good and cheap way to improve drainage. Incorporating it into your garden soil will help break it up and help aerate for healthier roots. Many hard soils have little organic matter, so adding in some well-rotted organic compost such as manure or garden compost helps break down clumps of soil and provides nutrients needed for your plants to grow. Soil conditioners can also help or try green manure and leaf mulch.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Improve your soil drainage in containers</h2>

<p>Ensuring your pots and containers have good drainage is important for your potted plants. They need a good loamy compost, full of nutrients that don&rsquo;t sit in water. Follow these steps to ensure your containers provide&nbsp;excellent soil drainage.&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Firstly, make sure the soil is a good quality potting compost.</li>
	<li>Make sure the pots have holes in the bottom for water to escape, and as an extra precaution, particularly in winter, put the pots up into pot feet, allowing for even better drainage.</li>
	<li>Each year, remove some of the compost from the top of the pot and replace it with new compost and top dress.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Improve soil drainage with mulch&nbsp;</h2>

<p>After you have improved the soil with amendments as suggested above, adding a layer of mulch is a great way to ensure the soil isn&rsquo;t bare and therefore at more risk of compaction plus, it helps keep down weeds. There are many types of mulch from well-rotted compost, farmyard manure, chicken manure, wood chip, straw and grass clippings. Leaves are another great way of mulching and clearing up after leaf fall.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Alternatives to improve your soil</h2>

<p>You could try the no-dig method of gardening, create a bog garden, or use the space for something entirely different. There is no need for the space to be wasted as there are options, and although it might take some work, it will be worth it. Don&rsquo;t forget to try not to walk on compacted soil as well.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a range of mulches and compost in store for your garden borders and containers.&nbsp;</p>

Improve soil drainage

<p>June is here, and that means long days and gardens filled with sunshine and flowers. Whether you&rsquo;re sowing, planting or harvesting, keep your garden looking its best with our <strong>top 15 garden tips for June</strong>.</p>

<p>June is here, and that means long days and gardens filled with sunshine and flowers. Whether you&rsquo;re sowing, planting or harvesting, keep your garden looking its best with our <strong>top 15 garden tips for June</strong>.</p>

<h2>Top 15 gardening tips for June</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Sow basil seeds in pots this month for a supply of leaves all through summer. Sow lettuce, radish and beetroot seeds in the vegetable garden.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow nasturtiums and Poached Eggplant (Limnathes douglasii) in flower beds and vegetable gardens to attract pollinators. Nasturtiums also make a good sacrificial crop, luring aphids away from other plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant out courgette, tomato, pepper and sweetcorn seedlings, as well as runner- and French beans. Don&rsquo;t forget to provide supports for your beans to climb up or grow dwarf varieties in pots if you&rsquo;re short on space.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Stake cordon tomatoes and pinch out side shoots. Feed tomato plants fortnightly with a high-potash feed once the flowers appear.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill pots and hanging baskets with geraniums, petunias, begonias and other bedding plants for long-lasting summer colour.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>First, early potatoes should be ready to harvest once the flowers have opened, but dig up one or two first and check whether they are big enough. If not, leave them for a few weeks to grow bigger.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Harvest garlic and onions once their leaves turn yellow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Net strawberry plants to protect the ripening berries from birds.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Prune spring-flowering shrubs like Weigela, Forsythia, flowering currant (Ribes) and Philadelphus. Remove any dead, damaged or spindly growth, then cut back flowered shoots to vigorous side shoots. To rejuvenate congested plants, cut back one in every three or four old stems to ground level.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Clip evergreen hedges to keep them neat, but check first to be sure you aren&rsquo;t disturbing any nesting birds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Deadhead roses regularly and pick sweet peas to keep flowers coming all through summer.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep on top of the weeding. Run a Dutch hoe over beds on a dry day to cut down annual weeds and leave them on the ground to shrivel up.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Be water-wise. Water in the mornings or evenings to reduce water loss through evaporation, and install a water butt to collect rainwater.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Open greenhouse vents on hot days to stop the temperature from shooting up. It&rsquo;s a good idea to install shade blinds or add shade paint to greenhouses to protect plants in hot weather.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Mow lawns once a week to keep them neat. If you have space, consider leaving an area of lawn un-mown in summer to provide a habitat for insects and other wildlife.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>If your garden needs a boost this summer, why not visit our centre where you&rsquo;ll find a fantastic range of flowering plants, vegetable seedlings and everything else you need. Our friendly staff will be happy to help with all your gardening queries!</p>

15 garden tips for June

<p>If you want fresh flowers in your home all year round, <strong>flowering houseplants</strong> are the answer. Many flowers for months in summer, and there are even houseplants that flower in the middle of winter. Here are&nbsp;four of our favourite flowering houseplants:</p>

<p>If you want fresh flowers in your home all year round, <strong>flowering houseplants</strong> are the answer. Many flowers for months in summer, and there are even houseplants that flower in the middle of winter. Here are&nbsp;four of our favourite flowering houseplants:</p>

<h2>1. Cape primrose (Streptocarpus)&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The Cape primrose is a fantastic flowering houseplant, producing sprays of gorgeous flowers from late spring through to autumn, held on slender stems above rosettes of deep green veined leaves. Native to the Drakensberg mountains in South Africa, it grows in woodland conditions, so it needs protection from the hot midday sun. Place it on an east- or west-facing windowsill from spring to autumn, moving it to a brighter spot in winter.&nbsp;Water when the compost feels dry to the touch, and don&rsquo;t leave the pot sitting in water, as the roots could rot. Feed fortnightly from spring to autumn with a half-strength high potash food or a specialist Streptocarpus food.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. African violets (Streptocarpus)</h2>

<p>Previously called Saintpaulia, African violets are now considered part of the Streptocarpus genus. These compact plants are perfect for a windowsill, with velvety leaves and colourful flowers in spring and summer.&nbsp;Like Cape primroses, they will do well on an east- or west-facing windowsill in summer and should be moved to a south-facing position in winter to get more light. African violets don&rsquo;t like the cold or sudden changes in temperature. Keep them at between 18-24&deg;C (64-75&deg;F) during the day and above 16&deg;C (60&deg;F) at night, and protect them from draughts. Water when the compost is dry, using water at room temperature rather than cold water. Feed monthly in spring and summer with a half-strength liquid houseplant food.</p>

<h2>3. Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)</h2>

<p>The Peace Lily doesn&rsquo;t flower very often, but the blooms last a long time when it does. The elegant hooded white flowers, held on tall stems, look cool and stylish against large deep green leaves. Peace lilies like bright but indirect light and will also grow well in shady rooms. Water regularly and feed monthly with a liquid houseplant food.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera)</h2>

<p>In the middle of winter, the Christmas cactus is a splash of bright colour, with vibrant flowers appearing at the ends of its long, segmented leaf-like stems. Getting a Christmas cactus to come back into flower each year takes some effort, but the results are well worth it.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Start in winter, with a plant that is already in flower.</li>
	<li>In late January, once flowering has finished, place the plant somewhere cool (12-15&deg;C/54-59&deg;F) to encourage it to rest and water it very sparingly, just enough to keep the compost from drying out.</li>
	<li>In April, move it into a warmer position, water regularly and feed monthly with a liquid houseplant feed.</li>
	<li>In September, when the plant starts producing buds at the ends of its stems, move it back into a cooler spot again until the buds have formed.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>We have a sensational range of flowering houseplants in our centre, so visit us soon and fill your home with beautiful flowers!</p>

Top 4 beautiful flowering houseplants to grow

<p>These <strong>top 5 plants to grow in containers</strong> are perfect for small spaces such as a patio or balcony where there is less space but plenty of potentials. If you have a small space, use as much space as you can, including vertical growing to maximise the greenery! There are many varieties perfect for growing in pots to give you a productive and beautiful display. Here are our top 5 for your garden containers:&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>top 5 plants to grow in containers</strong> are perfect for small spaces such as a patio or balcony where there is less space but plenty of potentials. If you have a small space, use as much space as you can, including vertical growing to maximise the greenery! There are many varieties perfect for growing in pots to give you a productive and beautiful display. Here are our top 5 for your garden containers:&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Verbena bonariensis &lsquo;Lollipop&rsquo;&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Firstly, encouraging pollinators to your garden is a great way to bring it to life and also help to pollinate any crops you have growing. Even up high on a balcony, it is surprising what wildlife will find your plants. Verbena &lsquo;Lollipop&rsquo; is a lower growing verbena with vibrant, small lilac flowers on rough green stems magnet for bees. Attract bees and other insects to your garden by planting Verbena &#39;Lollipop&#39;.</p>

<h2>2. Blueberries&nbsp;</h2>

<p>As they require acidic soil to grow, they can easily grow in a pot rather than alter your neutral to alkaline soil. The little bell-shaped flowers are so pretty in springtime, and you will soon be harvesting ripe, tasty and nutritious fruits in the summertime. If birds visit your garden, a little netting may help the berries disappearing!</p>

<h2>3. Courgettes</h2>

<p>There is no reason why you can&rsquo;t grow your own vegetables in a small garden with containers. There are many! Courgettes are so prolific and very easy to grow. They germinate well, and with some early protection from climate and pests, they will soon grow and provide you with a healthy number of delicious vegetables to cook with. Courgettes will need:</p>

<ul>
	<li>a big pot,</li>
	<li>plenty of suns,</li>
	<li>lots of water,</li>
	<li>feed.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>4. Fuchsia</h2>

<p>The ballerina shaped flowers of the Fuchsia are available in many different colours&nbsp;and some fun names! Fuchsia &lsquo;Princess Charlotte&rsquo; has the most pretty pink flowers, and Fuchsia &lsquo;Sarah Eliza&rsquo; has flouncy pale pink and cream flowers that look much like a tutu! Fuchsias grow well in containers, and some of them are even edible! Fuchsias&nbsp;berries make an excellent jam.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Nasturtiums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Not only are Nasturtiums edible, pretty and great for deterring pests, but they are also easy to sow, germinate and care for. The fabulous foliage is both pretty and edible too, plus, they are great annuals for children to grow as well. The seed pods are edible, too and can be used instead of capers.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Nasturtium&nbsp;&lsquo;Orange Gleam&rsquo; is great for hanging baskets and is incredibly vibrant,</li>
	<li>Nasturtium&nbsp;&lsquo;Black Magic&rsquo; has deeply dark red flowers looking almost mystical,</li>
	<li>Nasturtium&nbsp;&lsquo;Alaska&rsquo; has variegated foliage.</li>
</ul>

<p>They&#39;re all perfect to grow in pots and containers to brighten up your garden, patio or balcony.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Find a range of containers, compost and seeds to grow in store.&nbsp;</p>

Top 5 plants to grow in containers

<p>Your <strong>garden&rsquo;s wildlife</strong> needs your help! With many insect and bird populations struggling, we need to do everything we can to support the creatures that share our gardens. Here are our <strong>top tips on creating a wildlife habitat in your back garden</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Your <strong>garden&rsquo;s wildlife</strong> needs your help! With many insect and bird populations struggling, we need to do everything we can to support the creatures that share our gardens. Here are our <strong>top tips on creating a wildlife habitat in your back garden</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Mow your lawn less frequently</h2>

<p>Studies show that reducing mowing to just once a month allows low-growing flowers like daisies, clover, self-heal and creeping buttercup to flourish, providing valuable support for bees and other pollinators.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Weed less</h2>

<p>Don&rsquo;t be too quick to pull up weeds.&nbsp; Dandelion flowers are one of the top early food sources for bees in spring, and the seeds provide food for small birds like goldfinches. Nettles provide food for the larvae of many of our best-loved butterflies, including Peacocks, Red Admirals and small Tortoiseshells.</p>

<h2>3. Make a log pile</h2>

<p>Leave a pile of old logs in your garden, and all sorts of creatures will make their home in it, from insects and centipedes to overwintering frogs and toads. A log pile will also attract small mammals and birds that prey on the residents of the pile, boosting your garden&rsquo;s biodiversity enormously. Use logs with the bark still on whenever possible, as many creatures make homes under the bark. Site your log pile somewhere semi-shady so that it stays cool and damp, allowing the wood to decay gradually.</p>

<h2>4.&nbsp;Make a pond</h2>

<p>Adding water to a garden is one of the best ways to support wildlife. Even a small pond will quickly provide a habitat for insects like pondskaters and diving beetles, and in larger ponds these might be followed by damselflies and even amphibians like frogs, newts and toads. You can make a small pond in a large bucket or basin, planted up with two or three aquatic plants and a few rocks to give wildlife a way of getting safely in and out. Put your pond where it will get some sun to warm the water and a little shade to keep the algae down.</p>

<h2>5. Plant for pollinators</h2>

<p>When choosing plants for your garden, try to have something in flower for most of the year. Crocuses are an excellent nectar source in early spring, and ivy and mahonia provide food for pollinators in autumn and winter. Avoid multi-petalled or double flowers if possible, as these are harder for pollinators to get into.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>6. Feed the birds</h2>

<p>Provide a habitat for birds by planting shrubs and trees to provide them with food and shelter. Ivy is a good choice, with berries for food in autumn and thick evergreen foliage for cover.&nbsp; Holly also makes a good habitat for birds, as do berry-bearing trees like hawthorn and rowan. And don&rsquo;t forget to keep bird feeders and birdbaths clean and topped up.</p>

<p>Whether it&rsquo;s wildlife-friendly plants or wildflower seeds, you&rsquo;ll find what you need in our centres, so visit us soon. Our friendly staff are always happy to help.</p>

6 ways to make your back garden a wildlife habitat

<p>We are on the cusp of summer so let&rsquo;s take a look at some of the best summer bedding plants. If you want to add some instant colour to your beds, hanging baskets, and containers, the following plants are an excellent choice!</p>

<p><img alt="Geraniums " height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Geraniums2.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>1. Geraniums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Geraniums are very popular summer bedding plants and come in a range of bright colours. A well looked after geranium will last for many years, at the end of the flowering season, before the first frost, you can lift your plants and bring them indoors for some TLC. If you are planting your geraniums outdoors, they like full sunshine and sandy, well-drained soil.</p>

<p><img alt="marigolds " height="365" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Marigolds.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 365px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>2. Marigolds&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Marigolds are a wonderful touch of bright sunshine in a garden.&nbsp; Marigolds flower from late spring until the first frost of the autumn. There are many different types, but all have flowers ranging from yellow, red-gold to copper/brass colours.&nbsp; The have a fragrance and can help keep blackfly off veg plants.&nbsp; Marigolds love the full sun, but they don&rsquo;t mind some shade. Water regularly in hot weather and if your marigolds are planted in containers.</p>

<p><img alt="begonias" height="386" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Non-Stop%20Begonias%20Cropped.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 386px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>3. Begonias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are over 2,000 species of begonias! Generally you will only find half a dozen on offer in garden centres. &nbsp;Wax begonias are the most common bedding plants, and these will happily grow in containers, hanging baskets, and beds. Look for a location with partial shade, as begonias don&rsquo;t like full sun and too much heat, although some are more tolerant of the sun than others. Trim back your begonias as they begin to yellow and die. The tubers can be stored in a dry place over winter once lifted from the soil. &nbsp;Non-stop begonias have beautiful large blooms and flower all summer and look great in containers and baskets.</p>

<p><img alt="petunias " height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Carpenters%20Nursery%20Petunias.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>4. Petunias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Petunias come in lots of different pastel shades and are an attractive addition to hanging baskets, containers, and window boxes as they grow up, out, and down. Plant petunias in a sunny location, as they like lots of sunlight, and full sun means your plants will produce more flowers. Feed and water petunias weekly, but if yours are planted in a hanging basket or container, they will need more water, especially during hot weather. Deadhead petunias as they grow, but make sure you remove the dead flowers at the base, so no seeds are left behind. Otherwise, the plant will stop producing flowers. Petunia flowers are thin and don&rsquo;t stand up well to lots of rain so they can look a bit sad if we have a prolonged wet period.</p>

<p><img alt="cosmos summer bedding plants" height="387" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Cosmos%20Resized.jpg" style="margin: 10px; width: 482px; height: 387px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>5. Cosmos&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Cosmos plants are really easy to grow and their lovely textural foliage adds an extra dimension to flower beds. They range from 60-100cm tall, taller varieties of cosmos are best planted at the back of flower beds and they may need staking to avoid collapsing in wet and windy weather. Use your summer cosmos as a screen to hide an unsightly fence or old shed. They also don&rsquo;t mind hot, dry weather.</p>

<p><img alt="antirrhinums" height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Antirrinhums.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>6. Antirrhinums&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The popular name for Antirrhinums&nbsp;is snapdragons. These plants are easy to grow and suit a cottage garden vibe. Bees love them, so consider adding them to your plant choice. They will certainly brighten it up! Snapdragons like a sunny location and well-drained soil. To ensure your Antirrhinums&nbsp;keep on flowering all summer long, keep them well watered and feed weekly with a fertiliser rich in potash. Make sure you remove dead flowers regularly, too.</p>

<p><img alt="fuchsias " height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Fuscias.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>7. Fuchsias&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Fuchsias add a touch of vibrant colour to hanging baskets, and containers. Fuchsias like a sunny location, but they will still thrive in partial shade. Plant your fuchsias in early summer and they will produce blooms until the first frost. If you plant fuchsias in containers, use a loam-based compost or peat-free multi-purpose compost. Water your plants regularly until they are established. Thereafter, they won&rsquo;t need much water unless it&rsquo;s really hot. An occasional feed will perk up plants that are not growing as well as you hoped.</p>

<p><img alt="surfinias" height="322" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/shutterstock_101440072.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 322px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>8. Surfinias&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Surfinias are a type of hanging petunias. They are ideal for hanging baskets and produce an array of small bell-shaped flowers. Surfinias are ideal if you have window boxes, balconies, and raised decks, as in full bloom they produce a trailing cascade of beautiful flowers. &nbsp;The can trail down a metre or more. They prefer a sunny location and rich soil. Use a light soil mix in hanging baskets. Be sure to remove dead and dying flowers regularly, as this promotes further blooms.&nbsp; The spread well and make quite a lot of root so don&rsquo;t plant too many in each basket or container.&nbsp; Usually 4 is enough for the average basket.</p>

<p><img alt="bacopa summer bedding plants" height="444" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Bacopa%20Cropped.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 444px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>9. Bacopa&nbsp;&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Trailing bacopa is a very attractive summer flowing plant, that is excellent for providing groundcover. It is happy in sunny locations or partial shade, and the low growing species of bacopa will cover walls and areas beneath taller plants quickly. Bacopa plants produce flowers in a range of shades, including; white, red, lavender, pink, and blue.&nbsp; White is generally the most popular and is a good addition to a hanging bracket with blue and pink.</p>

<p><img alt="lobelia summer bedding plants" height="362" src="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/files/images/Lobelia.jpg" style="width: 482px; height: 362px;" width="482" /></p>

<h2>10. Lobelia</h2>

<p>Lobelia is easy to grow and will produce pretty small flowers all summer. The most common colour is a vibrant violet-blue, but there are some varieties of lobelia that produce pink, red, and white flowers. Lobelia plants like full sun but will cope with partial shade, and also rich soil. Water them frequently in hot, dry weather.</p>

<p>We have a fine selection of bedding plants at <a href="https://www.carpentersnursery.co.uk/">Carpenter&rsquo;s Nursery</a>, so come and take a look! If you need any advice on which plants will suit a particular location, ask one of the team. We are always happy to help.</p>

Top 10 Summer Bedding Plants

<p>Start <strong>fertilising your lawn</strong> to get that perfect lush green grass to step onto or to have a picnic, garden party or just because you want to admire it from the kitchen window. It is a very easy gardening job to do and one that will be most satisfying when you are proud of your green, healthy lawn. If you don&rsquo;t want to fertilise your lawn, we have some other ideas for you below as well.&nbsp;</p>

<p dir="ltr">Start <strong>fertilising your lawn</strong> to get that perfect lush green grass to step onto or to have a picnic, garden party or just because you want to admire it from the kitchen window. It is a very easy gardening job to do and one that will be most satisfying when you are proud of your green, healthy lawn. If you don&rsquo;t want to fertilise your lawn, we have some other ideas for you below as well.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>When to start fertilising your lawn&nbsp;</h2>

<p>It is a good idea to wait until your grass is growing well in late spring before you start to fertilise the lawn. Then again, fertilise your lawn just one or two more times throughout the year. It really shouldn&rsquo;t need much at all, but doing this at any other time of the year will mean both wasted product, and it could be detrimental to your lawn. So wait until the weather and soil temperature has warmed up and start fertilising.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Fertilising your lawn options&nbsp;</h2>

<p>There are many different choices for lawn fertilisers. We offer:</p>

<ul>
	<li>liquid feed,</li>
	<li>granules,</li>
	<li>sprays for smaller patches.</li>
</ul>

<p>It really is a decision for you to make. Some lawn fertilisers come with added lawn seed and moss killer all on one, which takes your lawn through a process of killing the moss to make way for the grass seed to grow and be fertilised. Have a good look at the options available to you so you can make the right choice for your garden.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Fertilising your lawn or other options&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If you aren&rsquo;t sure if you want to fertilise your lawn or even have a traditional well kept green lawn, there are other options for a thriving lawn. You could let your lawn run wild or at least part of it. Allowing the grass to grow and wildflowers to seed can bring a great deal of biodiversity to the garden. Taller grass will be home to many insects and feed larger garden wildlife. You could alternatively have a creeping thyme lawn or even a sensory chamomile lawn. Neither of which will need fertilising!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Fertilising your lawn tips&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Be careful not to use spring fertiliser in the autumn and vice versa. Specific lawn feeds are made up of different nutrition for your lawn and need to be applied at the right time of year. Ideally, don&rsquo;t pick up a cheap fertiliser that is too high in nitrogen as that won&rsquo;t keep your grass looking great long term. Make sure the fertiliser is a balanced mix of nutrients, and the application is easy for you to do.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a wide range of fertilisers, and if you would like to speak to someone in store about which to choose, please speak to one of our friendly team who will be able to advise you.&nbsp;</p>

Fertilising your lawn

<p>When you&rsquo;ve chopped up that fresh pineapple for dessert, don&rsquo;t throw away the top &ndash; you could use it to <strong>grow</strong> another <strong>pineapple plant</strong>! With their spiky rosettes of fleshy leaves, pineapple plants make dramatic-looking indoor plants, fitting in perfectly with the trend for growing succulents. And if you&rsquo;re lucky (and very patient), you might even be able to harvest your very own pineapple.</p>

<p>When you&rsquo;ve chopped up that fresh pineapple for dessert, don&rsquo;t throw away the top &ndash; you could use it to <strong>grow</strong> another <strong>pineapple plant</strong>! With their spiky rosettes of fleshy leaves, pineapple plants make dramatic-looking indoor plants, fitting in perfectly with the trend for growing succulents. And if you&rsquo;re lucky (and very patient), you might even be able to harvest your very own pineapple.</p>

<h2>Where do pineapples come from?</h2>

<p>Pineapples come from the tropical regions of South America, so they need warm conditions to grow well, ideally above 15&deg;C (59&deg;F) all year round. In our more temperate climate, they&rsquo;re best grown in conservatories or heated greenhouses.&nbsp;</p>

<p>To grow your own pineapple plant, all you need is a pineapple from the supermarket, a pot and some cactus potting mix. Here&rsquo;s how it&rsquo;s done:</p>

<h1>How to grow a pineapple from a top</h1>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Choose a pineapple with a crown of fresh green leaves.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut off the top of the fruit about 2.5cm (1in) below the crown. Eat the rest of the pineapple!</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim away the flesh from the top and remove the lower leaves to expose a stem portion.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cut the stem back to a point just below where the leaves have been removed. Leave it out for a few days to dry before planting it to reduce the risk of it rotting.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Fill a pot with a very free-draining potting mix, such as cactus potting compost. Push the stem of your pineapple crown into the compost and firm the compost around it. Using a mist spray, lightly moisten the compost.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Cover the pot with a plastic bag to keep the compost from drying out. Check regularly and water just enough to keep the compost moist.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Your pineapple stem should take between 1-3 months to root. Once it has rooted, new leaves will start growing from the centre of the plant. At this stage, repot your pineapple plant into a larger container filled with cactus compost, or use multipurpose compost mixed with grit.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<h2>Caring for your pineapple plant</h2>

<p>Keep your plant somewhere warm, such as a conservatory, greenhouse or sunny windowsill. Water sparingly, just enough to keep the compost from drying out, and feed once a month with a balanced liquid feed.</p>

<p>Getting a pineapple to fruit takes time and lots of patience. Plants fruit once every three years (and sometimes longer), and they only produce one fruit per plant.&nbsp; To give your pineapple the best chance of fruiting, keep it at a constant temperature of around 20&deg;C (68&deg;F), and ensure it gets approximately 6 hours of daylight every day. You may need to invest in grow lights for the winter months.</p>

<p>Once your pineapple plant is growing, why not combine it with a few other succulents? Visit our centre to see our exciting range of cacti, succulents and other fascinating houseplants.</p>

How to grow a pineapple plant from a top

<p>Start <strong>sowing colourful annuals</strong> as soon as the weather warms up and the soil temperature is also a little warmer, but if you can&rsquo;t wait, some can be sown undercover. A few hardy annuals prefer to be sown directly in the soil where they are to grow. Either way, annuals make a great addition to any garden with so many varieties to choose from, an array of colours and many that are great for cutting to put into a vase. Here are some of our favourites to sow and grow, including a few sowing tips.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Start <strong>sowing colourful annuals</strong> as soon as the weather warms up and the soil temperature is also a little warmer, but if you can&rsquo;t wait, some can be sown undercover. A few hardy annuals prefer to be sown directly in the soil where they are to grow. Either way, annuals make a great addition to any garden with so many varieties to choose from, an array of colours and many that are great for cutting to put into a vase. Here are some of our favourites to sow and grow, including a few sowing tips.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Choose what you love before sowing colourful annuals</h2>

<p>Do a little research so you can decide which annuals to sow. There are so many! Think about colours and textures and when you would like them to flower, and if they can also be cut for a vase.</p>

<ul>
	<li>You could choose edible annuals such as Nasturtiums or annuals that pollinators love, like Cosmos.</li>
	<li>Don&rsquo;t forget Sunflowers - probably the most popular annual and easy to sow and grow.</li>
	<li>Nigella &lsquo;Love-in-a-mist&rsquo; is a popular annual with attractive seed heads.</li>
	<li>If you love bright colours, Zinnias are great to grow in a variety of colours, and Stocks will fill your whole garden with an intoxicating scent.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>Sowing colourful annuals directly where they will grow&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Sowing directly in the soil where they will grow is often the easiest way to get growing. It is especially useful if you don&rsquo;t have a sunny windowsill or a greenhouse to get them started undercover. Many prefer to be sown direct anyway and will soon germinate and grow. Make sure your soil has been weeded, and any large lumps and stones have been removed. Rake it over and make shallow drills where they will grow. Sprinkle your seeds, bearing in mind they may need thinning out as they grow and then cover over lightly with soil and water. It is useful to label your rows or where you have sown, so any weeds that pop up can be easily identified.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Wildflowers are great for sowing colourful annuals&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Some wildflowers are biennial, some perennial and many are annual but will readily self-seed. Wildflower mixes will list everything in the mix on the packet. They not only fill spaces with so much colour and interest throughout the year but are also very easy to sow, grow and care for, plus incredibly good for garden wildlife. A miss of seed will soon grow and bring vibrancy and life to your garden. They are a great way to get various plants and flowers blooming in any size garden whilst attracting all of the beneficial insects you want.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For annual seeds and wildflower mixes, pick from our range in store.&nbsp;</p>

Sowing colourful annuals

<p>It&rsquo;s helpful to <strong>mulch your garden</strong> for many reasons. Mulch can do a great job of retaining moisture in the soil for your plants and even keeps weeds down as well. Using the right mulch will help improve your soil for healthy, thriving plants while reducing evaporation, which is especially good for dry soils, and maintaining a regular temperature. Cooling in the summer and keeping warm during the colder months.</p>

<p>It&rsquo;s helpful to <strong>mulch your garden</strong> for many reasons. Mulch can do a great job of retaining moisture in the soil for your plants and even keeps weeds down as well. Using the right mulch will help improve your soil for healthy, thriving plants while reducing evaporation, which is especially good for dry soils, and maintaining a regular temperature. Cooling in the summer and keeping warm during the colder months.</p>

<h2>How to mulch your garden</h2>

<p>Think of mulching as placing a doughnut around the base of your plants, shrubs and trees. Leave some space from the base to where the mulch starts. You can apply it directly to the soil&#39;s surface and leave it or dig it in a little at the top. Which action to take will depend on what type of mulch you use. If you are using a non-organic mulch, this is likely to be a one time job, but if you are feeding the soil with an organic mulch, ideally, this is done in the springtime, but autumn also works well.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Mulch your garden with the right material</h2>

<p>Mulch can be many different materials, from grass clippings to pebbles.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Organic mulch can be leaf mulch, well-rotted garden compost, animal manure, wood chip and anything made naturally.</li>
	<li>Non-organic mulches might be materials such as slate, gravel or even landscape fabric. Anything that performs as that insulation for your soil and plants.</li>
</ul>

<p>Choosing your mulch will depend on what look you want to achieve as well as how you would like to treat your soil. There are so many options from grey slate to white pebbles and plant-based mulches or garden composts that make the garden look really tidy very quickly.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use your own to mulch your garden</h2>

<p>You can purchase all of the different types of mulches, but you can also use your very own homemade mulch. It&rsquo;s very satisfying to replenish your garden with material made by you in your own garden! Grass clippings make a great mulch, as do pine needles if you want to help acidic loving plants. Collect and store fallen leaves in autumn and allow them to break down to make a great leaf mulch for your plants. Make space for building your own compost pile where you can throw your garden waste and allow it to break down and replenish your soil again when it is well rotted.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Visit us in store for a range of mulches suitable for your garden.&nbsp;</p>

Mulch your garden

<p><strong>Ornamental grasses</strong> add so much to a garden, bringing borders to life with their airy flower stems, softening paving and edging borders. There are grasses for sunny spots and grasses that will grow happily in part shade. Here are a few of our favourite ornamental grasses and how to care for them.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Ornamental grasses</strong> add so much to a garden, bringing borders to life with their airy flower stems, softening paving and edging borders. There are grasses for sunny spots and grasses that will grow happily in part shade. Here are a few of our favourite ornamental grasses and how to care for them.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<h2>8 great ornamental grasses to grow</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Miscanthus sinensis (Chinese silver grass)</strong> is an elegant deciduous grass with long arching leaves and tall silky purple-tinged flower spikes in late summer. Plant it in moist, well-drained fertile soil in full sun. It&rsquo;s best in large borders, as it forms big, spreading clumps.&nbsp; Leave the dry foliage and flower stems to stand over winter and cut them down in early spring before the new foliage appears.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Calamagrostis (feather reed grass)</strong> has a distinctive narrow upright shape. It&rsquo;s ideal for adding structure to borders and make a good screening plant in summer, growing in sun or partial shade. Leave the dry leaves and flower stems to stand in winter and cut down in early spring before the new foliage appears.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Pennisetum alopecuroides (fountain grass)</strong> is a wonderfully tactile deciduous grass, forming a mound of slender foliage and long stems with soft flower plumes that you can&#39;t help stroking. It&rsquo;s not fully hardy, so it is best grown in mild areas or given a thick mulch in autumn to protect it through winter. Cut back old foliage in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Deschampsia cespitosa (tufted hair grass)</strong> is an evergreen grass with sprays of delicate flowerheads that float like a cloud above arching foliage. This is an easy-care grass that will grow in the sun or part shade and often self-seeds. Cut the faded flowerheads back in late winter.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hakonechloa macra</strong> forms low mounds of foliage and looks great&nbsp;edging large borders, growing happily in part shade. Hakonechloa macra has deep green foliage, but there are also varieties with lime-green, golden green and variegated leaves.&nbsp;Cut back the old foliage and mulch in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Carex oshimensis</strong> (sedge) forms compact clumps of foliage, ideal for lining paths or using as part of an evergreen display in a container. It also makes an excellent ground cover, and there are varieties to suit full sun or part shade. Comb out the dead foliage in spring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Ophiopogon planiscapus &lsquo;Nigrescens&rsquo;</strong> <strong>(black mondo grass)</strong> is a compact, low-growing grass that looks great in contemporary gardens, striking black foliage softening,&nbsp;paving edges the occasional purple flower spikes adding a touch of colour. Plant it amongst lighter-coloured foliage to set off its dramatic colouring.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Festuca glauca (blue fescue)</strong> is another colourful small grass that works well in a contemporary setting. Its steel-blue evergreen foliage also combines well with more traditional plants like lavender. For the best colour, plant it in full sun, and comb through with your hands in spring to remove old foliage.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Visit our centre today to see our exciting range of ornamental grasses and other plants. We&rsquo;re sure you&rsquo;ll find exactly what you&rsquo;re looking for!</p>

8 great ornamental grasses to grow

<p>This <strong>how to test your soil pH</strong> guide will give you all of the information you need to know your soil better. Without good soil and knowing exactly what type and PH it is, your plants may not thrive so well.</p>

<p>This <strong>how to test your soil pH</strong> guide will give you all of the information you need to know your soil better. Without good soil and knowing exactly what type and PH it is, your plants may not thrive so well. When you know more about your soil, you can choose the right plants for the right place and work with what you&rsquo;ve got to have a fully biodiverse and beautiful garden. Here&#39;s how you can test your garden soil to find out.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Get a testing kit</h2>

<p>Many different types of testing kits are straightforward to use. Plus, doing it is a bit like a fun school science experiment! Kits are different. There are some with a pH indicator from just inserting into the soil, and others have pH test strips which are fun to do but also really very accurate.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Collect some soil&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Collect a few samples of soil from different areas of your garden and keep each sample separate. Make sure the soil hasn&rsquo;t been given any recent fertilisers or mulches so you can be sure the soil hasn&rsquo;t been altered. It&rsquo;s surprising how readings can be different from various areas in a garden, so testing a few samples is helpful.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Use the testing kit&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The easy pH strip testing kits will have small tubes that you can put the soil samples into. Make sure you&rsquo;ve removed any debris and stones so it&#39;s just the soil that will be mixed with a testing solution. You can watch the colour change, which is really fascinating. Usually, green is alkaline and red is acidic with numerous shades in between, so check your results against the chart supplied with the testing kit.&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>Green colour? That means your soil is alkaline.</li>
	<li>Red colour? This means that your soil is acidic.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>4. Choose your plants</h2>

<p>Now you know what soil acidity you have, you can start to look at plants that will thrive in those conditions. There are many beautiful plants for all conditions. It is possible to temporarily alter the soil acidity if you love a specific plant that isn&rsquo;t right for your soil, but this can be difficult and not long term so ideally, work with what you&rsquo;ve got or grow in pots.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Plants for acid or alkaline&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Plants that thrive in acidic soil are well known such&nbsp;as:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Azalea,</li>
	<li>Rhododendron,</li>
	<li>Blueberries.</li>
</ul>

<p>There are very many plants that prefer alkaline to neutral soil. Alkaline-lovers are:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Campanula,</li>
	<li>Geraniums,</li>
	<li>Lavender.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>Then there is only a small group left that loves a neutral soil pH:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Ferns,</li>
	<li>Asparagus.</li>
</ul>

<p>Usually, a pH of 6.5 is the perfect pH for most gardens, which most people will at least be close to. A large percentage of plants thrive between a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.</p>

<p>We have soil pH testing kits in store for you to use, and our friendly team can advise you on their use. Get to know your soil and plant plants that are exactly perfect for your soil pH.</p>

How to test your soil pH

<p><strong>Shady gardens</strong> are sometimes seen as a problem, but this doesn&rsquo;t have to be true. Shady gardens can be just as beautiful as those blessed with sunshine. The emphasis is all on foliage shapes, textures, and the subtle colours of shade-loving plants in the shade. With the right plants, you can turn a shady garden into a cool, tranquil haven to relax in.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Shady gardens</strong> are sometimes seen as a problem, but this doesn&rsquo;t have to be true. Shady gardens can be just as beautiful as those blessed with sunshine. The emphasis is all on foliage shapes, textures, and the subtle colours of shade-loving plants in the shade. With the right plants, you can turn a shady garden into a cool, tranquil haven to relax in.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Perennials for shade</h2>

<p>Perennials add colour to shady spots through both flowers and leaves. Here are some of our favourite perennials for shade.</p>

<ul>
	<li><strong>Brunnera &lsquo;Jack Frost&rsquo;</strong> produces delicate sprays of blue forget-me-not flowers in spring, but the real attraction is the silver-marbled leaves that grow larger through spring and summer, lighting up shady areas.</li>
	<li><strong>Heuchera &lsquo;Key Lime Pie&rsquo; and &lsquo;Lime Marmalade&rsquo;</strong> both do well in the shade, with vivid lime-green foliage that works well as an accent in the border all year round.</li>
	<li><strong>Hellebores</strong> are a must for every shady garden. They flower in the depths of winter, producing nodding flowers in a range of shades from pale pastels to rich maroon and deep purple. The lobed evergreen leaves make good groundcover all year round.</li>
	<li><strong>Hostas</strong> have bold, textured leaves and as well as green-leaved varieties. There are also hostas with blue, golden-yellow and variegated foliage. They combine beautifully with the softer foliage of ferns. The thicker-leaved hosta varieties like &lsquo;Halcyon&rsquo; and &lsquo;Blue Mouse Ears&rsquo; are slightly more resistant to slug attacks.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Shrubs for shade</h2>

<p>Shrubs provide structure in the border, and they&rsquo;re great for low-maintenance gardens. These reliable shrubs will grow happily in the shade:</p>

<ul>
	<li><strong>Sarcococca</strong> &ndash; an unassuming evergreen shrub that flowers in January, producing modest, small white flowers with an incredibly sweet scent.</li>
	<li><strong>Euonymus &#39;Emerald Gaiety&#39;</strong> &ndash; a tough, reliable low-growing shrub with variegated green and white evergreen leaves that take on touches of pink in winter. It can be trained as an informal climber or left to grow as a groundcover shrub.</li>
	<li><strong>Hydrangeas</strong> &ndash; well known for their big mophead or lacecap flowers that add colour to shady spots in mid and late summer. For blue flowers, plant mophead hydrangeas in acid soil; for pink, grow them in alkaline soils.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Ferns for shade</h2>

<p>Ferns are ideal for shady gardens, adding texture and architectural interest with their long, delicate fronds. Our top ferns for a shady garden are:</p>

<ul>
	<li><strong>Polystichum &lsquo;Herrenhausen&rsquo;</strong> &ndash; a spreading evergreen fern with intricately frilled fronds, happy in full shade.</li>
	<li><strong>Dryopteris erythrosora</strong> &ndash; deciduous, producing gorgeous copper-coloured new fronds each spring that turn green as they mature. It does best in partial shade.</li>
	<li><strong>Athyrium nipponicum</strong>, the Japanese painted fern &ndash; perfect for damp, shady soil, with green fronds delicately dusted with silver and maroon mid-ribs.</li>
</ul>

<p>Whatever your garden conditions, we have the right plants to suit them. Visit our centre soon and choose the perfect plants for your garden.</p>

Plants for shady gardens

<p>These <strong>top plants for children to grow</strong> will get them interested in gardening and growing their own food in no time. It is so important to teach children the importance of plants and where their food comes from, so getting started at home is ideal. Even a sunny windowsill will do! Here are some plants that will get kids interest in gardening stirred.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>top plants for children to grow</strong> will get them interested in gardening and growing their own food in no time. It is so important to teach children the importance of plants and where their food comes from, so getting started at home is ideal. Even a sunny windowsill will do! Here are some plants that will get kids interest in gardening stirred.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Nasturtiums are on our list of top plants for children to grow&nbsp;</h2>

<p>One of the easiest to sow and grow plus they are entirely edible! The quirky shaped foliage, stunningly bright-coloured flowers not only look great in the garden or in a hanging basket but can also be added to salads or just munched for fun in the garden! It&#39;s simple:</p>

<ul>
	<li>sow the seeds in spring,</li>
	<li>harden them off if you&rsquo;ve sown indoors,</li>
	<li>then plant out.</li>
	<li>Alternatively, direct sow when the soil warms up.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>One of our top plants for children to grow is the tomato</h2>

<p>Tumbling tomatoes especially are great for children to grow. They can be grown in a hanging basket and the small tomatoes can be used as snacks. Watch the foliage tumble over the sides of the basket and the many little cherry tomatoes grow. You can even find varieties in yellow/orange as well for something surprising.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Another one of our top plants for children to grow</h2>

<p>Cut and come again lettuce is super simple to sow and grow.</p>

<ol>
	<li>Sow thinly in a well-drained compost and lightly cover over.</li>
	<li>Keep the soil moist and watch those leaves grow!</li>
	<li>Just cut the leaves when you want to eat them and watch them like magic grow more leaves.</li>
</ol>

<p>Great fun for kids and adults!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Top plants for children to grow indoors&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Nothing beats the carnivorous plants for kids indoors. The fun and excitement of watching a Venus flytrap in motion is a great way for children to watch plants in motion. Another great indoor plant is the aloe vera because the gel inside each leaf is both edible and jelly-like, used to soothe sore or sunburnt skin.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Sunflowers are top plants for children to grow&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Sunflowers have to be the most fun to grow. Either sow in pots under cover or direct sow when the weather warms up. Having a fun sunflower competition is a great way for children to learn to nurture and look after the plant to see how tall it will grow. Then collect the seeds to sow again the following year.&nbsp;</p>

<p>There are many plants for children to enjoy growing so don&rsquo;t feel restricted by space, age or experience, just have a go at growing with children and have really great fun with it.</p>

<p>Starting growing from seed is really easy and we have plenty in store for you to choose from.&nbsp;</p>

Top plants for children to grow

<p>These <strong>top houseplant care tips</strong> have been put together for you to help your houseplants thrive. Or, if you are new to houseplants they will give you the confidence you need to get started and know some basic top tips to start your collection of houseplants. Once you get one, you will undoubtedly get more! There are some general key points when looking after houseplants that will help you and we believe no home should be without plants.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>top houseplant care tips</strong> have been put together for you to help your houseplants thrive. Or, if you are new to houseplants they will give you the confidence you need to get started and know some basic top tips to start your collection of houseplants. Once you get one, you will undoubtedly get more! There are some general key points when looking after houseplants that will help you and we believe no home should be without plants.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Houseplant care tips: right plant right place</h2>

<p>The most important thing to consider, is just like outdoor plants, match the plant to the place. If you have a shady corner to fill make sure you pick up a plant that will thrive in the shade because if you put a sun-loving plant in that place and it doesn&rsquo;t grow well, you will wonder what you have done wrong. Most labels describe in words on a diagram what conditions the plant needs.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Houseplant care tips: water levels</h2>

<p>It&#39;s really important to get to know your plants watering requirements and most plants will tell you straight away if they are unhappy. Yellowing leaves, drooping foliage and generally unhappy-looking may mean you need to change the water levels. If anyone asks what is wrong with their plant, the first question is almost always &lsquo;how much do you water it! Most houseplants require far less water than you might expect. Others will require constant moisture. A good houseplant book can really help to understand which needs watering more frequently.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Houseplant care tips: potting mix</h2>

<p>Don&rsquo;t make the mistake of potting your houseplants into multi-purpose compost. Often they have different nutrient levels to what your houseplant needs, perhaps less drainage and can often be the cause of fungus gnats. Purchase some good quality houseplant compost or cacti and succulent mix to ensure your plants have what they need in their pots.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Houseplant care tips: propagation&nbsp;</h2>

<p>When you have houseplants you will soon want more! They give so much to a home not just aesthetically but also for well-being as well but did you know, you can also get free new plants from the plants you already have? Sansevieria can be propagated easily from cuttings in water, as can Pothos and Tradescantia along with the ever-popular Monstera and many more. You can even take leaf cuttings from Begonias and find new baby plants growing at the base of succulent leaf cuttings. It is very easy to grow more plants for free.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Make sure before and after you buy a plant you do some research so you know what to look out for.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Purchase house plants in store and our friendly team can advise you as well.</p>

Top houseplant care tips

<p>Packed full of vitamin C and antioxidants, <strong>blueberries</strong> are both healthy and delicious. They&rsquo;re also surprisingly easy to grow, and very ornamental, with pretty flowers in spring and beautiful autumn foliage. You don&rsquo;t need lots of space to <strong>grow blueberries</strong> &ndash; a big pot in a sunny place will do.</p>

<p>Packed full of vitamin C and antioxidants, <strong>blueberries</strong> are both healthy and delicious. They&rsquo;re also surprisingly easy to grow, and very ornamental, with pretty flowers in spring and beautiful autumn foliage. You don&rsquo;t need lots of space to <strong>grow blueberries</strong> &ndash; a big pot in a sunny place will do.</p>

<h2>Which blueberries to plant</h2>

<p>Most blueberries are self-pollinating to some extent, but they will all produce a better crop if grown near another blueberry of a different variety to allow for cross-pollination. However, if you only have space for one plant, these varieties will still produce a good crop:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Blueberry &lsquo;Bluegold&rsquo; &ndash; a compact variety, good for containers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Blueberry &lsquo;Patriot&rsquo; &ndash; a very vigorous, hardy variety.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Blueberry &lsquo;Duke&rsquo; &ndash; an early-harvesting variety good for northern regions with short summers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Blueberry &lsquo;Nelson&rsquo; &ndash; harvests late in the season, producing large juicy fruits.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<h2>Where to plant blueberries</h2>

<p>To grow blueberries successfully, it&rsquo;s vital to get the soil right.&nbsp; Blueberries will only grow in acidic soil, with a pH of around 5.5. (The pH level of a soil is a measure of its acidity or alkalinity. For reference, the pH of a neutral soil is 7.) You can test your soil&rsquo;s pH yourself very easily with a pH test kit, available in our centres. Or, bring a cup of soil to our garden centre and we test it for you. Please contact us for this service.&nbsp;</p>

<p>You can increase the acidity of your soil by adding sulphur chips. This should be done at least one month before planting, to allow time for it to take effect.&nbsp; However, if your soil conditions are not ideal, it&rsquo;s often easier to grow blueberries in pots filled with ericaceous compost. For heavy crops and good autumn foliage colour, plant your blueberry bushes in a sheltered, sunny spot.</p>

<h2>How to care for blueberries</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Water container-grown blueberries regularly, using rainwater rather than tap water if possible, especially in hard water areas.</li>
	<li>Feed container-grown blueberries once a month with a liquid feed designed for ericaceous plants. Mulch field-grown blueberries in autumn with an ericaceous mulch such as pine needles or leaf mould, and give them a high-nitrogen feed in late winter.</li>
	<li>To stop birds stealing your blueberries before you can harvest them, net the bushes once the fruit starts to ripen. Drape the netting over the bushes to cover them right down to the ground, and peg it down carefully to stop birds from getting in and becoming trapped.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Once blueberry bushes are over two years old, they should be pruned annually in late winter or early spring. Cut back one in every four old stems to the base to promote new growth and keep the plant producing berries.</li>
</ul>

<p>Your blueberries should be ready to harvest from midsummer to early autumn, depending on the variety you grow. When ripe, the berries are a dusty blue colour. They&rsquo;re delicious cooked or eaten fresh, and can also be frozen.</p>

<p>We have a fantastic range of fruit and vegetables in our centre, so visit us soon and get your garden ready for a great harvest.</p>

How to grow blueberries

<p>Start deciding which <strong>edible flowers to grow</strong> as early as possible in the year so you can plan and make sure you have the seeds or plants available and that your soil is prepared, ready to sow and plant at the right time of year. It is a great experience growing edible flowers because they look great in the garden and provide nectar for pollinators and pick some for home-cooked food, cocktails, and even medicines. Here are four things you should keep in mind when you decide to grow edible flowers.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Start deciding which <strong>edible flowers to grow</strong> as early as possible in the year so you can plan and make sure you have the seeds or plants available and that your soil is prepared, ready to sow and plant at the right time of year. It is a great experience growing edible flowers because they look great in the garden and provide nectar for pollinators and pick some for home-cooked food, cocktails, and even medicines. Here are four things you should keep in mind when you decide to grow edible flowers.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Flavour&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Just like any other food, edible flowers all taste a little different. Some are spicy or peppery like Nasturtiums, some have a little zing such as Marigolds, and others are very delicate such as Violas and Pansies. Consider the tastes when you look at which seeds to sow.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Colour</h2>

<p>With so many edible flower options, you can even choose colours that fit your own garden colour scheme. So take a look at what kind of style and feel you would like your garden to be, and then look for edible flowers that match! If you are looking for white, try Chamomile and Alyssum for pretty white flowers. Perhaps you would rather have vibrant colours such as the blue Cornflower and pink Fuchsia.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Usage</h2>

<p>When you think about sowing and planting, edible flowers consider what you will use them for. Will you want to use them as a salad garnish or perhaps on a cocktail? Will you want to use them as a medicine, such as a herbal tea or in a tonic. The usages are wide and varied, so do some research first to plan what you would like to grow to meet all of your usage needs.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Space</h2>

<p>It is a good idea to look at how much space you have so you know how much to sow and grow. There are so many edible flowers to grow that you shouldn&rsquo;t feel restricted by space if you have a smaller area or even a balcony.&nbsp; You can grow in hanging baskets, pots and containers or larger beds and borders - there are many options. Here is a list of some popular edible flowers:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Hibiscus</li>
	<li>Scented Geraniums&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Rose</li>
	<li>Peony</li>
	<li>Calendula</li>
	<li>Gladiolus&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Squash flowers</li>
	<li>Borage</li>
	<li>Day Lily</li>
	<li>Dandelion</li>
	<li>Magnolia</li>
	<li>Honeysuckle</li>
	<li>Camellia</li>
	<li>Sunflower</li>
</ul>

<p>As you can see, there are many to grow, and these are just a few. Please do your research and make sure they are safe for you personally to eat. Always try just a little first and find out what the health benefits are of each.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have many options for edible flowers in store, come and visit us where our team will be happy to help.&nbsp;</p>

Edible flowers to grow

<p>We all know that <strong>biodiversity</strong> is a good thing, but what does it actually mean? Well, essentially, it&rsquo;s the variety of plants and animals found in an area. A <strong>biodiverse garden</strong> can contain an astonishing number of different forms of life, from bacteria, fungi, worms and insects to small mammals, birds, and of course, plants.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We all know that <strong>biodiversity</strong> is a good thing, but what does it actually mean? Well, essentially, it&rsquo;s the variety of plants and animals found in an area. A <strong>biodiverse garden</strong> can contain an astonishing number of different forms of life, from bacteria, fungi, worms and insects to small mammals, birds, and of course, plants.&nbsp;</p>

<p>This is great news for gardeners, ensuring plenty of natural predators to keep our gardens free of pests, as well as pollinators to give us good harvests. But it&rsquo;s not just about us. Increasing the biodiversity of our gardens also helps support species in trouble, such as declining insect and bird populations, especially in urban areas. There are plenty of ways to make your garden more biodiverse, and here are our top tips.</p>

<h2>8 ways to make your garden biodiverse</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>Plant flowers for pollinators. If you have space, try to have something in flower most of the year. Ivy and mahonia are good in late autumn and winter, and crocuses provide early spring food for pollinators. Avoid double flowers where possible, as insects find it hard to reach their centres and gather pollen.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Plant berry-bearing trees and shrubs like holly, hawthorn and crab apple to provide food for birds and protection against predators. Mature ivy scores again here, providing late autumn food for both birds and bees, as well as winter shelter for a whole host of garden creatures.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Add water to your garden. You don&rsquo;t need a huge amount of space for this &ndash; even a mini-pond made out of a large pot will attract birds and insects to drink. In larger ponds, if you&rsquo;re lucky you may get frogs, which will help reduce the slug population. Don&rsquo;t add fish to your pond, as they&rsquo;ll eat everything else, but do provide some rocks or a slope so that visiting wildlife can get in and out of the pond.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Make a log pile. These are great for invertebrates i.e. insects, worms and other assorted creepy crawlies. Dappled shade is the best location for log piles, with a bit of sunshine for warmth but not enough to dry the wood out completely. Stag beetles love log piles.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Put up a bird feeder and birdbath, and keep them both topped up all year round.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Don&rsquo;t cut all your perennials down in autumn. Leave a few hollow dead stems standing to provide somewhere for insects to overwinter. Cut them back once the weather warms up in spring and insects start to emerge again.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Learn to love weeds. Dandelions are an excellent early nectar source for pollinators and nettles provide food for the larvae of many moths and butterflies, so leave a few to grow in a corner of your garden.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Avoid using pesticides, and let natural predators control your garden pests instead.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Every little helps when you&rsquo;re trying to improve your garden&rsquo;s biodiversity. Whether you&rsquo;re after pollinator-friendly plants, bird feeders or hedgehog houses, visit our centre to find everything you need.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

8 ways to make a biodiverse garden

<p>Knowing <strong>what to sow in the kitchen garden in May</strong> is pretty easy since it&rsquo;s such a busy year for sowing and growing. Often it might seem by this point in the year that you have missed a chance to sow or that you are too late, but there are very many different vegetables and salads that can be sown in May for an abundant harvest. So as the seeds you have already sown will be growing at quite a pace as the weather warms up, make sure you have plenty of crops even going into Autumn by sowing in May.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Knowing <strong>what to sow in the kitchen garden in May</strong> is pretty easy since it&rsquo;s such a busy year for sowing and growing. Often it might seem by this point in the year that you have missed a chance to sow or that you are too late, but there are very many different vegetables and salads that can be sown in May for an abundant harvest. So as the seeds you have already sown will be growing at quite a pace as the weather warms up, make sure you have plenty of crops even going into Autumn by sowing in May.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>1. Brassicas&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Don&rsquo;t panic if you haven&rsquo;t sown your cauliflowers, broccoli, cabbages and sprouts yet because you can still sow them in May to be able to harvest plenty by the end of the year. They can be sown undercover in a greenhouse or warm windowsill, sown directly if you have good weather and even planted in an area temporarily until other crops have finished. You can then move them to their final growing space.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Squashes</h2>

<p>Pumpkins and Courgettes can be sown during May, and they will grow at quite a pace in the sunny, warm weather, all ready for you to plant out in June. Pop the seeds in individual modules, water, label and watch them grow. You&rsquo;ll be pumpkin carving in no time!</p>

<h2>3. All the roots</h2>

<p>Rows of Carrots and Beetroots can be sown outside during May, plus Turnips and Swedes as well. Deter carrot root fly by sowing them in a raised bed or making sure they are covered with fine mesh.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>4. Sweetcorn</h2>

<p>You can sow your sweetcorn outside during May, right where you want them to grow. Don&rsquo;t forget to sow in a block/square formation, which helps them to pollination properly. Give them some protection from pests and late frosty weather with some fleece or cloches.</p>

<h2>5. Salads&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Keep sowing your cut and come again with lettuce, spinach and any leafy greens. This is successional sowing meaning that you will be able to harvest a continuous crop for as long as possible throughout the year.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>6. Microgreens&nbsp;</h2>

<p>These can be sown at any time of year and will pack a nutritious punch to your cooking in just a few weeks after sowing. Sow seeds such as sprouts, radish, beetroot, herbs and much more, just allowing them to grow no taller than 10cm before you harvest them. That small sprout is full of nutrition, flavour and looks great as a garnish or put into a smoothie, soups, stews and sprinkled on top of a freshly harvested homegrown plate of Salad.</p>

<p>Don&rsquo;t miss out on sowing in your kitchen garden. Visit us to find all the seeds you need.&nbsp;</p>

What to sow in the kitchen garden in May

<h1>What You Need to Know About Planting Perennials in the Garden</h1>

<p>Many thrifty homeowners and gardeners prefer perennials to annuals because they provide better value for money. While annuals need to be planted each year, only to die at the end of the season, perennial bedding plants can be planted once and will return year after year for you to enjoy. If you have a garden design that you love and have no desire to change things up on a yearly basis, perennial plants could be the ideal choice for you. Many will return each year bigger and even better, creating multi-layered tapestries of texture and colour for your garden. Here&rsquo;s everything that you need to know about choosing, planting, and maintaining perennial bedding plants in your garden.</p>

<h2>Choosing Perennials:</h2>

<p>It is important to make sure that you choose the right plants for the right place when deciding which perennials you would like in your garden. Spend some time checking out the garden sites, look at the soil type, and consider how much it retains moisture. It is also important to think about the amount of sun or shade that the area will get in order to help you choose the most suitable perennials for the area since some thrive in direct sunlight while others prefer to be kept away from the sun. Consider the overall climate in your garden and the type of weather that your area gets to help you narrow down the type of perennials that are likely to grow best here. &nbsp;Bear in mind that most plants only flower for 3-4 weeks and different plants flower at different times of year.&nbsp; You don&rsquo;t want everything flowering at once for 3-4 weeks only to be left with nothing for the remainder of the season.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Planting Perennials &ndash; When to Plant:</h2>

<p>Hardy perennials are best planted during the autumn when the soil is still warm from the summer and there is enough time for the plants to establish a strong root system in time for flowering during the spring. If you want to plant perennials earlier this year, Spring is the next best time to get planting, however, you will need to make sure that they are adequately watered during the summer when the weather is likely to be dry. If you want to plant perennials during the spring, the best options to choose are plants that are not reliably hardy since this will give them plenty of time to establish their roots before the winter. While it&rsquo;s possible to plant perennials during the summer, this will often take a more maintenance and you will need to ensure that the plants are regularly watered throughout the growing season to make up for the lack of moisture in the soil during the dry weather.</p>

<h2>How to Plant:</h2>

<p>Once you have chosen the perennials that you want to plant and have decided when to plant them, it&rsquo;s time to get started. Bear in mind that some perennials are going to be in your garden for years to come unless you remove them, so it&rsquo;s important to make sure that the soil is thoroughly prepared. Use some soil conditioner or well-rotted organic matter to improve the condition of the soil and make sure that any weeds or large stones are cleared away from the area. If you have perennial weeds in your garden, spray them with weedkiller before removing them completely by the roots to prevent them from growing back in the area. &nbsp;&nbsp;Try to plant in clusters of 3-5 plants so you get a bigger display of colour when they flower.&nbsp; If you plant lots of different types of plant in ones and twos they can get lost in a big border.&nbsp; Also, don&rsquo;t forget to consider the height of the plant when its mature as you don&rsquo;t want tall plants obscuring small ones behind.</p>

<p>Once your ground is ready for planting, dig a hole in the soil slightly larger than the pot or the plant, if any roots have wrapped around the root ball, carefully unwind them. Then, place the perennial in the ground keeping the top of the root ball at the same level as the soil. Once you&rsquo;ve placed the plant, fill the surrounding hole with fresh compost and pack it down firmly with your fists to remove any air pockets. Finally, water your plant thoroughly, and you are done!</p>

<h2>Ongoing Perennial Maintenance:</h2>

<p>There are several things that you should do on an ongoing basis to make sure that your perennials are well-cared-for and maintained, and that they grow reliably each year looking fantastic. During the early spring, use a general slow-release fertiliser to feed the perennials and use well-rotted organic matter to mulch the bare soil in between the plants. Any tall-growing perennials should be well-supported using canes and string or grow-through plant supports designed for this purpose. You should make sure that the surrounding ground is clear from weeds throughout the spring and summer, and regularly remove any faded or dead flowers from the plant during the flowering season to keep the plant putting out new buds. During the autumn, many perennials will begin to lose their leaves for the season, so be sure to cut them back to prevent the leaves from rotting and going soggy. From time to time, it is a good idea to tidy up evergreen perennials to remove any dead or damaged leaves or faded flower stems.</p>

<h2>How to Buy Perennials:</h2>

<p>You can find a huge range of perennials available to purchase at a range of garden centres and nurseries, including our range at Carpenters Nursery. We grow 5000 of our these ourselves and buy in a good selection of late flowering plants during the summer too.&nbsp; We usually have multi-buy deals available when you buy 4 or more which will help keep the cost down if you are planting a large number of plants. &nbsp;In terms of choice and availability April and May are the best time to buy.</p>

<p>If you are looking for some ideal plants to pair with the perennials in your garden, you can choose from our extensive range of olive trees, bay trees, camellias, rhododendrons, pittosporum, euonymus, Ilex box cones and balls, and Japanese Maples that will look stunning paired with perennials in any garden.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Perennials are the best choice if you want plants for your garden that reappear every year. Which stunning perennial bedding plants will you add to your garden first?</p>

Planting a Perennial Border

<p>May is a beautiful month to be out in the garden, with birds singing, bees buzzing and everything coming into bloom. Here are our <strong>top gardening tips for May</strong> to get your garden looking great for the summer.</p>

<p>May is a beautiful month to be out in the garden, with birds singing, bees buzzing and everything coming into bloom. Here are our <strong>top gardening tips for May</strong> to get your garden looking great for the summer.</p>

<h2>Top gardening tips for May</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>If you have summer bulbs like dahlias and cannas growing in pots in your greenhouse, start hardening them off by putting them outside during the day and bringing them back inside at night time.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>In mild areas, plant up pots and hanging baskets with colourful summer bedding.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Start sowing seeds outdoors for summer colour, including sunflowers, nasturtiums, poppies and cornflowers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia and Japanese quince have finished, prune them to keep them to a neat shape. Prune spring-flowering Clematis Montana if necessary to keep it to size. Tie in climbers like honeysuckle and clematis into supports as they grow.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow courgettes, runner beans and French beans in modules or individual pots undercover. They&rsquo;ll be ready to plant out in a few weeks.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep earthing up potatoes for heavier harvests, stop light getting to the tubers, and turn them green and poisonous.&nbsp;There&rsquo;s still time to plant seed potatoes this month too.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Sow basil seeds now in pots in a greenhouse or on a warm, sunny windowsill, ready for planting outdoors next month.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>For a regular supply of leaves for delicious summer salads, sow lettuce, and other salad leaves every couple of weeks.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>You can plant tomato plants in greenhouse beds or grow bags now, but wait until the night-time temperature is reliably above 12&deg;C (54&deg;F) to plant tomatoes outdoors. Remember to harden off outdoor-grown tomatoes before planting them.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Slugs and snails are active now, so go on a slug and snail hunt in the evenings, armed with a torch and a bucket to collect them. Or protect your plants with slug traps or environmentally-friendly slug pellets.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Water container plants regularly during dry periods and feed flowering plants like geraniums and petunias fortnightly with a high potash feed (tomato feed is ideal).&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Once tulip, daffodil and bluebell foliage has died back, cut it down to ground level. Now&rsquo;s a good time to lift and divide spring bulbs to encourage them to spread.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Install a rainwater butt to save water and water in the mornings or evenings to reduce water loss through evaporation.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Trim hedges, but check for nests first - remember that it&rsquo;s illegal to disturb nesting birds.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>As the lawn starts to grow, mow regularly to keep it looking neat, and trim border edges with edging shears.</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Our centre is crammed with everything you need for your garden, from gorgeous plants and seeds to stylish and comfortable garden furniture. Visit us and get your garden set for a great summer!</p>

15 Garden Tips for May

<p><strong>Clusia rosea is called the autograph plant</strong> because its leaves are so thick and tough that it&rsquo;s possible to carve your name in them without harming the plant, although this isn&rsquo;t recommended as good plant care! The big, glossy green leaves give this attractive houseplant a stylish air that goes well with clean lines and contemporary d&eacute;cor. Clusia rosea does very occasionally flower in hot summers, producing pink or white flowers, but it&rsquo;s the foliage that&rsquo;s the main attraction.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Clusia rosea is called the autograph plant</strong> because its leaves are so thick and tough that it&rsquo;s possible to carve your name in them without harming the plant, although this isn&rsquo;t recommended as good plant care! The big, glossy green leaves give this attractive houseplant a stylish air that goes well with clean lines and contemporary d&eacute;cor. Clusia rosea does very occasionally flower in hot summers, producing pink or white flowers, but it&rsquo;s the foliage that&rsquo;s the main attraction.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>About the autograph plant</h2>

<p>Clusia rosea comes from the Caribbean. In its native environment, it is a vigorous and sometimes even an invasive plant, eventually growing into a tree with spreading branches. Fortunately, grown as a houseplant in colder climates, its invasive tendencies are not a problem!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to grow Clusia rosea</h2>

<p>Being a tropical plant, Clusia rosea likes warm temperatures, always above 10&deg;C (50&deg;F) and ideally between 16-29&deg;C (61-84&deg;F). When grown indoors as a houseplant, it does best in a bright location with indirect light. Keep it away from pets and small children, as all plant parts are toxic if eaten.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Plant Clusia rosea in a fertile, well-drained potting compost. It&rsquo;s recommended that you mix some orchid compost with the potting compost to achieve the required soil structure.&nbsp;</p>

<p>The autograph plant is fairly drought tolerant and will survive a bit of neglect, but ideally, water it regularly during the growing season from spring to autumn, just allowing the compost&#39;s surface to dry out between waterings.&nbsp; Never leave the pot sitting in water for long periods, as the roots will rot if they have to sit in waterlogged compost.&nbsp; Water the plant less frequently in winter; 2-3 times a month should be adequate.</p>

<p>Feed monthly from spring to autumn with a diluted balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer.</p>

<p>Clusia rosea is a fast-growing plant, so that it will need re-potting every couple of years. The sap can irritate the skin, so wear gloves when working with it.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to create a humid environment for houseplants</h2>

<p>Like most tropical plants, the autograph plant likes to be in an environment with high humidity. To create a suitable atmosphere in your home, try these tips:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Stand the plant in its pot on a tray filled with pebbles, and add water to the tray so that the pebbles are not quite covered. As the water evaporates, it will raise the humidity level around the plant.</li>
	<li>Grouping plants together will create a microclimate with higher humidity around the plants.</li>
	<li>Misting plant leaves with a hand mister will raise humidity levels for a short period.</li>
	<li>Some rooms in the home naturally have higher humidity levels, for example, bathrooms and kitchens. Humidity-loving plants like Clusia rosea do well in these rooms.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<p>If you&rsquo;re looking for a plant to add to your houseplant collection, visit our centre, where we have a wide range of beautiful plants to suit every home.</p>

Houseplant of the month: The autograph plant

<p>Want a beautiful garden but don&rsquo;t have hours to spend looking after it? Go for&nbsp;<strong>low maintenance garden landscaping</strong>. Choose your plants and materials carefully, and you can still have a garden that looks good all year round.</p>

<p>Want a beautiful garden but don&rsquo;t have hours to spend looking after it? Go for&nbsp;<strong>low maintenance garden landscaping</strong>. Choose your plants and materials carefully, and you can still have a garden that looks good all year round.</p>

<h2>Hard landscaping</h2>

<p>Hard landscaping, such as paving, decking, and gravel, takes less than a lawn, but it still needs some regular maintenance to keep it looking good and functioning well. Decking and paving both need annual cleaning to get rid of grime and moss, and algae can build up over winter and make surfaces slippery. Many decking types also need an annual treatment with a preservative like oil to stop the wood from rotting. Research your preferred paving or decking materials before you put them in to make sure you know how to look after them.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Gravel is a cheaper alternative to paving and decking and is very easy to use. Put down a weed-suppressing membrane before laying gravel to stop perennial weeds like dandelions and bindweed growing through from below. Gravel areas will still need occasional weeding, as annual weed seed will be blown in on the wind and germinate in the gravel.</p>

<h2>Reducing weeds in borders</h2>

<p>Weed suppressing fabric is an effective way to reduce the number of weeds in flower beds. It&rsquo;s best used when planting new areas. Before planting, cover the bare soil with the weed-suppressing membrane and peg it down. To plant through this membrane, use scissors or a knife to make an X-shaped cut in the fabric where a plant is to go, then scoop out the soil through this hole, pop in the plant, backfill with soil and settle the fabric back around the base of the plant. After everything is planted, spread a layer of bark chippings over the bed to hide the membrane.</p>

<p>Groundcover plants can also be very effective at suppressing weeds in borders, producing dense foliage mats that block the light from weed seedlings and smother them before they can grow.&nbsp; Useful groundcover plants include:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Geranium macrorrhizum</li>
	<li>Pachysandra terminalis</li>
	<li>Bergenia</li>
	<li>Alchemilla mollis</li>
</ul>

<h2>Low maintenance planting</h2>

<p>Low maintenance planting doesn&rsquo;t have to be dull. Evergreen shrubs look good all year, and many have beautiful flowers too. All they need is an annual trim to keep them in shape. This list of evergreen shrubs is ideal for low maintenance landscaping:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Hebe</li>
	<li>Choisya</li>
	<li>Holly</li>
	<li>Yew&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Nandina domestica</li>
	<li>Rosemary</li>
	<li>Thyme</li>
	<li>Lavender</li>
</ul>

<p>And for the ultimate in low-maintenance gardening, plant spring bulbs.&nbsp;Once established, they will come back year after year with practically no effort required on your part. Deadheading them will help preserve the plants&rsquo; energies for next year&rsquo;s flowers, but if you don&rsquo;t manage to get around to do this, they&rsquo;ll still produce a spectacular display the following spring.&nbsp; Daffodils, bluebells and crocuses are particularly reliable, flowering year after year.</p>

<p>Need advice on low-maintenance gardening? Our friendly staff are on hand to help you, so visit us soon.</p>

Low maintenance landscaping

<p>Wondering <strong>what to do after spring bulbs have flowered</strong>? It is actually quite easy to clear up afterwards and then use the space where they flower for even more flowers. These tips are handy if you have an area dedicated solely to spring bulbs because, for the rest of the year, it could look quite bare. Still, there are options for using that space while your bulbs are safely underground, storing energy for the following spring. Here are some ideas;</p>

<p>Wondering <strong>what to do after spring bulbs have flowered</strong>? It is actually quite easy to clear up afterwards and then use the space where they flower for even more flowers. These tips are handy if you have an area dedicated solely to spring bulbs because, for the rest of the year, it could look quite bare. Still, there are options for using that space while your bulbs are safely underground, storing energy for the following spring. Here are some ideas;</p>

<h2>1. Clear the area for new plants&nbsp;</h2>

<p dir="ltr">When your spring bulbs have finished flowering, deadhead them but leave the foliage to die back naturally. This allows all of the nutrients to go back down into the bulb to be stored over winter and to us for blooming the following year again. When all of the foliage has died back, gently remove it all away from the bulb and the soil to the compost bin, which will help keep pests and disease away.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>2. Summer bulbs&nbsp;</h2>

<p dir="ltr">If you have enough space and want to use your spring bulb area to carry on flowering for as long as possible, make sure you have some summer flowering bulbs as well. Along with your Daffodils, Crocus and Tulips, make sure you have some room for these summer bulbs, so you have something flowering over many months of the year.&nbsp;</p>

<ul dir="ltr">
	<li>Alliums,</li>
	<li>Lilies,</li>
	<li>Nerines,</li>
	<li>Begonias,</li>
	<li>Gladiolus,</li>
	<li>Crocosmias,</li>
	<li>Irises,</li>
	<li>Dahlias.</li>
</ul>

<h2>3. Sow annual seeds</h2>

<p dir="ltr">A great way to use the space after spring bulbs have finished flowering is to sow annual seeds. You can start them off even when some bulbs are still in flower. Try Nigella &lsquo;Love in a Mist&rsquo; or Cosmos &lsquo;Cupcakes&rsquo; and start your Zinnia seeds undercover to plant out later. Many Zinnia varieties are available in an abundance of vibrant colours to fill in your garden spaces.</p>

<h2>4. Remove the bulbs&nbsp;</h2>

<p dir="ltr">Most bulbs can stay in the ground. However, for example, Tulip bulbs are often lifted, stored and replanted the following year. Gardeners report varying success with this and with leaving them in. If you have been using your spring bulbs as cut flowers, you will most likely need to lift the bulbs and replace them. Considering bulbs are fairly inexpensive, you could create a new spring bulb display each year!&nbsp;</p>

<h2 dir="ltr">5. Know where they flower&nbsp;</h2>

<p dir="ltr">It can also be really useful to put a marker in the ground where they have bloomed, so throughout the season, if you decide to plant more out, you won&rsquo;t forget where your bulbs are, and therefore you minimise the risk of digging them up or forking into them causing damage. And, remember to feed your soil. All plants need healthy soil to grow.&nbsp;</p>

<p dir="ltr">We have a wide selection of bulbs, tools and plants to choose from in store.&nbsp;</p>

What to do after spring bulbs have flowered

<h1>Tips to Create a Tuscan Italian Garden</h1>

<p>The Tuscan landscaping style combines iconic plants such as rosemary, lavender, and Italian cypress with warm Mediterranean colours like natural stone, terracotta planters and bold flowers that will stand out beautifully in the warm sunshine. If you want to bring a little taste of Italy into your garden to make it feel like you are on holiday every time you step outside, you might want to consider creating a Tuscan Italian garden at your home.</p>

<p>There are several things that you can do to being a little bit of Tuscany into your life by adding the right plants, materials, and style to your outdoor space. If you can&rsquo;t wait to get started, we&rsquo;ve put together some do&rsquo;s and don&rsquo;ts to keep in mind to a stunning garden.</p>

<h2>Traditional Plants</h2>

<p>Adding traditional plants and shrubs to your garden is important to provide that Tuscan feel Olive and bay trees, grape vines, agapanthus, and rosemary are just some of the plants that you would expect to find in Tuscany, so make sure that they are taking centre stage in your outdoor space.&nbsp; We stock a good range of these plants from March- October.</p>

<p>Italian Cypress is a gorgeous plant to add to complete the look, and you can use a range of stylish upmarket shrubs along the borders or to create different sections of your garden for relaxing, dining, planting flowers, etc. Add some Mediterranean herbs to your garden, such as sage and lavender, to bring the sensory experience of Tuscany to your back garden and create a true Italian paradise at home. They can be put to use in the kitchen when making delicious Italian dishes to enjoy outside in the summer.</p>

<h2>Ornamental Grasses</h2>

<p>You can modernize the Tuscan theme of your garden by using ornamental grasses. This will add a flowing, bold element to your outdoor space and help soften the natural stone that is often found in traditional Tuscan design. If you are planning to add a lot of natural stone and terracotta to your garden to get a traditional Tuscan design and atmosphere, grass can provide a soft balance with texture and colour in the space and help to break it up.</p>

<h2>Amend Planting Beds</h2>

<p>Before planting new plants, refresh your borders with new compost and maybe some manure if you are planting mature shrubs and trees to ensure your Tuscan garden plants get off to the best start in life. When first planted, even some of the most drought-resistant plants such as olives and lavender will need a good soak, so water well. It generally take a season for plants to root well so keep a close eye on them and water more frequently in the first year. &nbsp;</p>

<h2>Warm Colours</h2>

<p>Choose warm colours for your patio materials and stone when designing your Tuscan Italian garden. Santa Barbara cobble, gold granite, and decomposed granite are just a few ideal options that will often be found in gardens and outdoor spaces in Tuscany, however, you can feel free to select any stone that is available to you and within your budget, as long as the colour is a warm rather than a grey shade. &nbsp;Cotswold stone is a good alternative and is readily available in UK garden centres.</p>

<h2>Avoid Pastels</h2>

<p>Pastel colours like baby pink might look nice but they are not always the best fit for a Tuscan-style garden since they can look washed out during the summer under the hot sun. For a real Tuscan vibe, go for brighter colours like hot pink, yellow, vibrant orange, and red to create a stronger contrast with the colours of your traditional Tuscan flowers and plants that tend to have a silver foliage.</p>

<h2>Avoid Greys</h2>

<p>As mentioned earlier, warmer colours are ideal when it comes to choosing the stone that you will use for your patio and other features in the garden. And this should be extended to whenever you are choosing gravel, rock, concrete, and other materials.</p>

<h2>Replace Your Lawn</h2>

<p>While ornamental grass can look great in a Tuscan garden environment, don&rsquo;t be afraid to swap your lawn for a more colourful landscape inspired by the Mediterranean. This can be an especially good idea if your lawn gets quite water-logged during wet weather or takes a lot of water to maintain throughout the summer. An established landscape requires a lot less care and maintenance compared to a lawn and uses around half the amount of water.</p>

<h2>Add Italian Accessories</h2>

<p>Finally, consider adding some Italian-style accessories to your outdoor space. This will complete the look and provide an authentic feel. &nbsp;If you want to create an outdoor dining area, for example, adding a marble water fountain or figurine will set off a gravel or patio area.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>More Tips to Consider</h2>

<p>While Tuscan plants are an ideal choice, don&rsquo;t shy away from adding some native plants to your garden too since they will be well-suited for growing in this environment and can be used within any style of landscape.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Many people are interested in the Tuscan landscaping style and design because Mediterranean plants and shrubs are not only gorgeous to look at, but they also tend to be very low-maintenance and sustainable. Along with the warm colours that are traditional to this style, you can easily create an inviting outdoor space.</p>

<p>If you need advice on planting, just ask one of the Carpenter&rsquo;s team!</p>

Creating a Tuscan Style Garden

<p>When you <strong>pair up Roses and Clematis,</strong> you can have a beautiful display in your garden that will flower for many months of the year, bringing colour and interest to you and wildlife. Roses and Clematis look so very pretty together, and when you get the combination right for you, your pergola, arches, and trellis can be a riot of colour to enjoy. These pairs grow really well together and look wonderful too.&nbsp;</p>

<p>When you <strong>pair up Roses and Clematis,</strong> you can have a beautiful display in your garden that will flower for many months of the year, bringing colour and interest to you and wildlife. Roses and Clematis look so very pretty together, and when you get the combination right for you, your pergola, arches, and trellis can be a riot of colour to enjoy. These pairs grow really well together and look wonderful too.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Colour combination when you pair up Roses and Clematis</h2>

<p>One way to start deciding which Rose and Clematis you would like to grow together is to consider the colours you want in your garden. Would you like them both to be pink or would you prefer to have completely different colours such as pink and yellow? Perhaps a light Rose and a darker Clematis for a stunning contrast.</p>

<ul>
	<li>For similar colours, try Rose &lsquo;Albertine&rsquo;, a rambling rose with Clematis armandii &lsquo;Apple Blossom&rsquo;.</li>
	<li>For a big burst of pink or for contrasting colours, try climbing bright pink rose &lsquo;Zephirine Drouhin&rsquo; with the dark purple of Clematis &lsquo;Polish Spirit&rsquo;.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Pair up Roses and Clematis for flowering at the same time</h2>

<p>If you are looking for the wow factor, then planting varieties that will bloom together means you&rsquo;ll get a stunning display all at once. If you grow climbing roses with your clematis, they will most likely need pruning at the same time, which can save a job, plus climbing roses repeat flower. Of course, you could always choose for different flowering times as well. If you would like a combination that will flower together, try Rose &lsquo;The Generous Gardener&rsquo; with Clematis &lsquo;Madame Julia Correvon&rsquo; or Clematis &lsquo;Henryi&rsquo; with Rose &lsquo;Iceberg&rsquo;.</p>

<h2>Go with more than one of each when you pair up Roses and Clematis</h2>

<p>There are no rules as long as you have space, so why not choose a couple of different Clematises to grow with your Rose and extend the flowering and colour for as long as you possibly can. You could grow two or three Clematis with one Rose for a real show-stopper display. Don&rsquo;t forget to ensure there is something for them to climb up that is well secured as the weight of two-plus climbers can be a lot!&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Pair up Roses and Clematis with the right supports&nbsp;</h2>

<p>When you have decided which you would like to grow, secure trellis tightly to your walls, fix the pergola well or make sure you have strong arches. Anything they can climb up will be their home for many years. You may need some ties or string as well, so be prepared. Ideally, if they can grow somewhere that you will also catch the scent. That&rsquo;s even more perfect.&nbsp;</p>

<p>For climbers, supports and accessories, visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

Pair up Roses and Clematis

<p><strong>Birds</strong> are at their most active in <strong>spring</strong>, making nests and raising their young, so it&rsquo;s the perfect time to do a bit of bird-watching. Here are a few of the birds you&rsquo;re likely to see in your garden, plus some tips on what to feed them to make sure they keep coming back.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Birds</strong> are at their most active in <strong>spring</strong>, making nests and raising their young, so it&rsquo;s the perfect time to do a bit of bird-watching. Here are a few of the birds you&rsquo;re likely to see in your garden, plus some tips on what to feed them to make sure they keep coming back.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Blackbirds</h2>

<p>Male blackbirds are easy to identify &ndash; they&rsquo;re black, with a bright yellow beak. Female blackbirds are less noticeable, with brown plumage. Blackbirds eat insects, worms, berries and fruit. They are mainly ground-feeding birds to come to food placed on bird tables or the ground. Try putting out dried mealworms and uncooked oats to attract them.</p>

<h2>Blue tits and great tits</h2>

<p>Blue tits are small and colourful, with blue, yellow, white and green markings. Great tits are slightly bigger, with yellow and green plumage. Both eat insects, caterpillars, seeds and nuts, and are welcome visitors in gardens, where they eat quantities of aphids in spring.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Blue tits and great tits will visit hanging bird feeders filled with seeds and nuts, tending to snatch a few seeds and take them elsewhere to eat.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Robins</h2>

<p>With their bright red breasts and confident manner, robins are a familiar sight in our gardens. They are very territorial, chasing other birds away from their space. Robins eat worms, seeds, insects and fruit, and they love sunflower seeds and mealworms. They are primarily ground-feeders, so although they may occasionally visit a hanging bird feeder, they will prefer feeding tables.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Goldfinches</h2>

<p>Goldfinches are tiny birds with bright red faces and yellow markings on their brown wings. Their beaks are perfectly designed for extracting the seeds from plants like teasels, thistles and dandelions, so leave a few dandelions growing in the corner of your garden to attract them. Hanging up a nyjer seed feeder will also help bring goldfinches into your garden, as they love the tiny black oil-rich seeds.</p>

<h2>Song thrushes</h2>

<p>Song thrushes are slightly larger than blackbirds and are largely brown with a black-speckled underbelly. Gardeners love thrushes because they eat snails, bashing them against a rock to break the shells. They also eat worms and fruit. To feed thrushes, soak raisins in hot water to plump them up and put them out on feeding tables, along with berries.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Tips on feeding garden birds</h2>

<p>Make your garden more bird-friendly with these simple tips:</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p>Plant berry-bearing shrubs and ivy to provide birds with food and shelter</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Keep feeders topped up to avoid birds making wasted trips, especially in winter.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Put out water for birds to drink and to wash in.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Clean feeders regularly, scrubbing them out in hot soapy water to avoid bacteria build-up that can spread diseases.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>You&rsquo;ll find everything you need for your garden birds in our centres, including feeders, bird food and bird-friendly plants. Come and visit us today!</p>

Watching garden birds in spring

<p>Weeds can be a real nuisance in the garden. They compete with our favourite plants for water and nutrients, and they spread the minute our backs are turned. As gardeners, we&rsquo;re always looking for better ways to deal with the problem, so here&rsquo;s our quick guide on <strong>how to get rid of garden weeds</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Weeds can be a real nuisance in the garden. They compete with our favourite plants for water and nutrients, and they spread the minute our backs are turned. As gardeners, we&rsquo;re always looking for better ways to deal with the problem, so here&rsquo;s our quick guide on <strong>how to get rid of garden weeds</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Getting rid of annual weeds</h2>

<p>Annual weeds like chickweed, hairy bittercress, spurge and groundsel grow, set seed and die all within one year. When dealing with annual weeds, the first rule is to get to them before they set seed&nbsp; - there&rsquo;s a well-known saying that &lsquo;One year&rsquo;s seed means seven years&rsquo; weeds.&rsquo; Hoeing is an easy way to tackle these weeds. On a dry day, use the hoe to sever the plant roots just below the ground. Leave the weeds on the surface of the ground to wither and die.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Controlling weeds by mulching</h2>

<p>Mulching (putting a layer of compost, bark, gravel or other material) on the soil suppresses weeds by blocking light from the seeds, stopping them from germinating. Mulching with organic matter like compost is also great for the soil, improving its structure.&nbsp; Mulch flower beds annually, using a 5cm (2in) layer of compost or well-rotted garden manure. Bark chips make a good mulch around shrubs.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>How to get rid of difficult weeds</h2>

<p>Many weeds can be dug up using a hand fork, but perennial weeds like dandelions, bindweed and ground elder will grow back from any root segments left in the ground, making them difficult to get rid of. Bindweed and ground elder are particularly hard to control because they produce extensive networks of underground roots. Regular hand weeding will weaken them eventually, but ensure you remove as much of the roots as possible. Use a dandelion grubber, which has a long narrow blade, to dig up dandelions.</p>

<p>Difficult perennial weeds can also be killed using a systemic weedkiller containing glyphosate. Systemic weedkillers are absorbed through a plant&rsquo;s leaves and work their way through the whole plant, killing it right down to the roots. When spraying systemic weedkillers, protect surrounding plants by covering them with plastic sheeting, as the weedkiller will kill any plant it comes into contact with. Always follow the manufacturer&rsquo;s instructions when using weedkiller.</p>

<h2>Weeds that are good for wildlife</h2>

<p>Weeds do have some benefits, especially for garden wildlife:&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Dandelion flowers</strong> are one of the top food sources for bees early in the year before most other plants are in flower.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Dandelion seedheads</strong> provide food for small birds like goldfinches and blackbirds.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Flowering weeds</strong> like daisies, buttercups and clover are good for bees and hoverflies.&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Nettles</strong> provide food for the larvae of many moths and butterflies, including tortoiseshells and peacocks.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>If your garden is big enough, it&rsquo;s worth leaving a few weeds to grow in an unused patch to help support your local wildlife.</p>

<p>Whatever approach you take to tackling your garden weeds, we have all the tools you need, so come and visit us soon!</p>

How to get rid of garden weeds

<p>Whether your garden is big, small or just a few pots on a windowsill, there&rsquo;s always space to grow herbs. Growing your own herbs means there&rsquo;s a ready supply any time you need them, and they look good too, often producing flowers that attract bees and other beneficial insects. We&rsquo;ve picked our five favourite <strong>easy herbs to grow</strong>.</p>

<p>Whether your garden is big, small or just a few pots on a windowsill, there&rsquo;s always space to grow herbs. Growing your own herbs means there&rsquo;s a ready supply any time you need them, and they look good too, often producing flowers that attract bees and other beneficial insects. We&rsquo;ve picked our five favourite <strong>easy herbs to grow</strong>.</p>

<h2>1. Rosemary</h2>

<p>Rosemary is an evergreen shrub with narrow, aromatic leaves that go well with lamb and chicken dishes. Its pretty blue flowers provide early nectar for bees in spring.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Plant rosemary in very well-drained soil, or a pot, in a sheltered, sunny spot. Although it is drought-tolerant, container-grown rosemary will need to be watered regularly in hot summers. Mulch plants in autumn to protect against winter weather and cover them with fleece in very cold areas. Raise pots onto pot feet over winter to improve drainage.</p>

<h2>2. Thyme</h2>

<p>Thyme is a compact evergreen shrub with small, aromatic leaves that are used in many Italian dishes. In late spring and early summer, the whole plant is covered in clusters of tiny pink flowers that bees and other pollinators love. Plant thyme in well-drained soil in full sun, and trim it lightly after it has flowered to stop it from getting leggy.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>3. Basil</h2>

<p>Basil is a tender herb and a vital ingredient in many tomato-based dishes. It thrives in warm weather and needs to be kept at a temperature of above 5&deg;C (41&deg;F). It&rsquo;s easy to grow basil from seed. Fill a pot with multipurpose compost and scatter a few seeds on top, covering them lightly with more compost or a thin layer of vermiculite. Water and place on a sunny windowsill or in a propagator to germinate. Basil can be planted outside after all the danger of frost is past. Remove any flowers that develop to keep the plant&rsquo;s energy focused on producing leaves.</p>

<h2>4. Chives</h2>

<p>Chives belong to the allium family and have long green leaves with a delicate onion flavour, which are delicious chopped into salads, herb butter and sauces or added to stir-fries. They flower in late spring and early summer, producing edible purple flower heads that make a lovely addition to a summer salad.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Plant chives in moist, well-drained soil in full sun or light shade, and harvest the leaves as you need them. Chives will die back in winter and reappear in spring.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<h2>5. Mint</h2>

<p>Mint is a robust perennial herb with aromatic leaves, prevalent for herb teas.&nbsp; It spreads rapidly by sending out underground runners and can be invasive, so it&rsquo;s best grown in a pot, in sun or light shade. Water regularly and pick the leaves as you need them. Mint will die back in winter, but new growth will appear again in spring.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a fantastic range of both herb plants and seeds in our centre, so visit us and get your herb garden growing today!</p>

News - Page 9

Choosing the Right Christmas Tree

A Guide to Planting Raspberry Canes

Planting Spring Bulbs

Advice for Planting Soft Fruit

A Guide to Planting Leeks

How to Make Your Hanging Baskets and Summer Planters Last for Longer

Our Guide to Growing Tomato Plants

Why Now is the Perfect Time to Plant Herbaceous Perennials

Our own grown Rhubarb

Your Guide to Planting & Caring for Roses

Chitting Seed Potatoes

A Guide to Buying Christmas Trees